Skip to main content

Full text of "More leaves from the journal of life in the Highlands, from 1862 to 1883 [microform]"

See other formats


'>. 



.0 



%^J^^^ 







IMAGE EVALUATION 
TEST TARGET (MT-S) 




1.0 



■ 50 ""^ USB 

1^ 112.2 



^ B£ 



1.1 l.-^l^ 



1.8 





1.25 


U i|||.6 




^ . 


6" 


► 




Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 



23 WEST MAIN STREET 

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14S80 

(716) 872-4503 






<^ 



r 





iV 



:\ 



\ 



V 



^9) 



.V 



'*^ 








6^ 



'■^'Jii 



■^ 









^ 



CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 



CIHIVI/ICMH 
Collection de 
microfiches. 





Canadian Institute for Historical Microreproductions / Institut Canadian de microreproductions historiques 




S 




1981 



Technical and Bibliographic Notes/Notes techniques et bibliographiques 



The Institute has avtemptad to obtain the best 
original copy available for filming. Features of this 
ropy which may be bibliographically unique, 
which may alter any of the images in the 
reproduction, or which may significantly change 
the usual method of filming, aro checked below. 



□ 
□ 



□ 



Coloured covers/ 
Couverture de couleur 

Covers damaged/ 
Couverture endommag^e 

Covers restored and/or laminated/ 
Couverture restaur^e et/ou pellicul6e 

Cover title missing/ 

Le titre de couverture manque 

Coluured maps/ 

Cartes g^ographiques en couleur 

Coloured ink (i.e. other than blue or black)/ 
Encre de couleur (i.e. autre que bleue ou noire) 

Coloured plates and/or illustrations/ , 
Planches ct/ou illustrations en couleur 

Bound with other material/ 
Relie avec d'autres documents 

Tight binding may cause shadows or distortion 
along interior margin/ 

La reliure serree peut causer de I'ombre ou de la 
distortion le long de la marge int^rieure 

Blank leaves added during restoration may 
appear within the text. Whenever possible, these 
have been omitted from filming/ 
II se peut que certaines pages blanches ajoutdes 
lors d'une restatration apparaissent dans le texte, 
mais, lorsque cela 6tait possible, ces pages n'ont 
pas 6t6 filmdes. 

Additional comments:/ 
Commentaires suppl^mentaires: 



L'Institut a microfilm^ le meilleur exemplaire 
qu'il lui a (bt6 possible de se procurer. Les details 
de cet exemplaire qui sont peut-dtre uniques du 
point de vue bibliographique, qui peuvent modifier 
une image reproduite, ou qui peuvent exiger une 
modification dans la mdthode normale de filmage 
sont indiqu^s ci-dessous. 



□ Coloured pages/ 
Pages da couleur 

□ Pages damaged/ 
Pages endommagdes 

r~~^ Pages restored and/or laminated/ 



D 
D 



Pages restaurdes et/ou pellicul6es 

Pages discoloured, stained or foxed/ 
Pages ddcolordes, tachetdes ou piqu^es 

Pages detached/ 
Pages d^tach^es 



r~T\ Showthrough/ 



Transparence 



I I Quality of print varies/ 



Quality in6gale de I'impression 

Includes supplementary material/ 
Comprend du materiel supplementaire 



Only edition available/ 
Seule Edition disponible 

Pages wholly or partially obscured by errata 
slips, tissues, etc., have been refilmed to 
ensure the best possible image/ 
Les pages totalement ou partiellement 
obscurcies par un feuillet d'errata, une pelure, 
etc., ont 6t6 film^es d nouveau de facon d 
obtenir la meilleure image possible. 



This item is filmed at the reduction ratio checked below/ 

Ce document est filmd au taux de reduction indiqu^ ci-dessous. 



10X 








14X 








18X 








22X 








26X 






30X 


























y 














1 











12X 



16X 



20X 



24X 



?8X 



32X 



The copy filmed here has been reproduced thanks 
to the generosity of: 

National Library of Canada 



L'exemplaire filmd fut reproduit grdce d la 
gdndrositi de: 

Bibliothdque nationale du Canada 



The images appearing here are the best quality 
possible considering the condition and legibility 
of the original copy and in keeping with the 
filming contract specifications. 



Les images suivantes ont 6t6 reproduites avec le 
plus grand soin, compte ti«nu de la condition et 
de la nettetd de l'exemplaire filmd, et en 
conformity avec les conditions du contrat de 
filmage. 



Original copies in printed paper covers are filmed 
beginning with the front cover and ending on 
the last page with a printed or illustrated impres- 
sion, or the back cover when appropriate. All 
other original copies are filmed beginning on the 
first page with a printed or illustrated impres- 
sion, and ending en the last page with a printed 
or illustrated impression. 



Les exemplaires originaux dont la couverture en 
papier est imprim6e sont film6s en commen9ant 
par le premier plat et en terminant soit par la 
dernidre page qui comporte une empreinte 
d'impression ou d'iliustration, soit par le second 
plat, selon le cas. Tous les autres exemplaires 
originaux sont filmds en commen^ant par ia 
premidre page qui comporte une empreinte 
d'impression ou d'iliustration et en terminant par 
la dernidre page qui comporte une telle 
empreinte. 



The last recorded frame on each microfiche 
shall contain the symbol — •» (meaning "CON- 
TINUED "). or the symbol V (meaning "END"), 
whichever applies. 



Un des symboies suivants apparaitra sur la 
dernidre image de chaque microfiche, selon le 
'Cas: le symbole — ^ signifie "A SUIVRE", le 
symbole V signifie "FIN". 



Maps, plates, charts, etc., may be filmed at 
different reduction ratios. Those too large to be 
entirely included in one exposure are filmed 
beginning in the upper left hand corner, left to 
right and top to bottom, as many frames as 
required. The fc'lowing diagrams illustrate the 
method: 



Les cartes, planches, tableaux, etc., peuvent dtre 
filmds d des taux de reduction diffdrents. 
Lorsque le document est trop grand pour §tre 
reproduit en un seul clich6, il est filmd d partir 
de Tangle supdrieur gauche, de gauche d droite, 
et de haut en bas, en prenant le nombre 
d'images ndcessaire. Les diagrammes suivants 
illustrent la m6thode. 





1 


2 


3 




1 2 3 

4 5 6 



1 



■B 



nm|HH»»i > »M ii H j «n ' i •-!-'- 



yQoQ 



/ 1,. 





r^y--:^.^' 




M 



'1'*i'Li!J^<'^'oBii'"*' ^' 



s- 



a 



MORE 



LEAVES FROM THE JOURNAL 



Of 



A LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS, 



FROM 1862 TO 1883. 



BY 



QUEEN VICTORIA. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



FOURTH EDITION. (=>1^ 



OSi 



I 



TORONTO, ONT.: 
A. H. HOVEY & CO., PUBLISHERS, lo KING ST. EAST. 

1884. 

Copyright. 



ff 






2T58 50 



.^ 



Entered according to the Act of the Parliament of Canada, in the year one 
thousinid eight hundred and eighty-fop.r, by AhaanT Henky Hovfiy, in 
the ufiice of the Minister ol Agriculture* 






* 



.<^ 



[fl--- 



a 



1 



^ 



J 

f 



PREFACE. 

The little volume " Our Life in the Highlands," 

published fifteen years ago, with its simple records 

of the never-to-be-forgotten days spent with him 

"who made the writer's life bright and happy," 

was received with a warmth of sympathy and 

interest which was very gratifying to her heart. 

The kind editor of that volume is no longer here 

to advise and help her, though friendly assistance 

has not been wanting on the present occasion. 

But remembering the feeling with which that 

litde book was received, the writer thinks that the 

present volume may equally evoke sympathy, 

as, while describing a very altered life, it shows 

how her sad and suffering heart was soothed 

and cheered by the excursions and incidents it 



-ff 



'.» 



^BP^ 



■ PP >H I| !■ > !» I 



C& 



■a 



( vi ) 

recounts, as well as by the simple mountaineers, 
from whom she learnt many a lesson of resigna- 
tion and faith, in the pure air and quiet of the 
beautiful Highlands. 

The writer wishes at the same tim.e to express 
her giatitude to those who are mentioned through- 
out this volume for the devotion and kindness 
which contributed so much to her enjoyment of 
the varied scenes and objects of interest of which 
these pages contain the unpretending record. 



Osborne : 
December 22, 1883. 



■ -'.f: 



■B-- 



•4:3 



[& 



a 



TO 

MY LOYAL HIGHLANDERS 

AND ESPECIALLY 

TO THE MEMORY OF 

MY DEVOTED PERSONAL ATTENDANT 

AND FAITHFUL FRIEND 

JOHN BROWN 

THESE RECORDS OF MY WIDOWED LIFE 
IN SCOTLAND 

ARE 

GRATEFULLY DEDICATED 

VICTORIA iV. /. 



C&- 






[& 



~& 



CONTENTS. 



Bu.lding ol ihe Princs's Cairn 

Visit to the Old Cairn on the Prince's Birthday 
First Visit to the Prince's Cairn after its Com- 
pletion , 

Vi.it to Blair 

Carriage Accident 

Unveiling of the Prince's Statue at Aberdeen .. 

Expedition to Invernia k 

First V ■■ ^o Dunkeld 

Second Visit to Dunkeld 

Opening of the Aberdeen Waterworks 

Halloween 

Visit to Floors and the Scotch Border Country 

Visit lo Glenfiddich 

Unveiling of the Prince's Statue at Balmoral.... 

A House-warming at the Glassalt Shiel 

"Juicing the Sheep" 

A Highland " Kirstnin " (Christening) 

A Second Christening 

Widow Grant 

Visit to Invertrossachs 

Sheep Clipping 

Betrothal of Princess Louise to the Marquis of 
Lome 



nATK FACE 

21 Aug. 1862 I 

26 Aug. 1862 3 

19 May 1863 4 

15 .Sept. 1863 5 

7 Oct. 1863 9 

13 Oct. 1863 15 

19 Sept. 1865 -4 

9 Oct. 1865 30 

I Oct. 1866 46 

16 Oct. 1866 66 

31 Oct. 1866-7 ■• 69 

20 Aug. 1867 71 

24 Sept. 1867 89 

15 Oct. 1867 103 

I Oct. 1868 105 

21 Oct. 1868 109 

24 Oct. 1868 ..... Ill 

I Nov. 1868 113 

22 Aug. 1869 114 

I vSept. 1869 116 

13 June 1870 148 

3 Oct. 1870 150 



^ 



^ 



c& 



■a 



X CONTENTS. 

Communion Sunday at Cratliie 

The "Spate" 

Visit to Holyrood and Edinburgh 

Visit to Dunrobm 

Dr. Norman Macleod 

Visit to Inverlochy 

Home-cominj^ of their Royal Hijjhnesses the 
Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh 

Departure »..' the Prince of Wales from Aber- 

gfildie liefore leaving for India , 

Visit to Inveraray 

Highland Funeral 

Unveiling of the Statue of the Prince Consort 
at Edinburgh 

Presentation of Colours to " The Royal Scots" 

Expedition to Loch Marce 

Visit to Broxmouth 

Death of Sir Thomas Biddulph ^ Abergeldie 
Mains 

Memorial Cross to the Princess Alice, Grand 
Duchess of Hesse 

Death of the Prince Imperial 

Home-coming of their Royal Highnesses the 
Duke and Duchess of Connaught 

His Royal Highness the Duke of Connaught's 
Cairn 

Vi"» to the Glen Gelder Shiel 

Victory of Tel-el-Kebir and Home-coming of 
their Royal Highnesses the Duke and 
Duchess of Albany 

Conclusion 



DATE PAGE 

13 Nov, 1871 152 

II June 1872 156 

13 Aug. 1872 164 

6 Sept. 1872 178 

March 1873 209 

9 Sept. 1873 238 ■ 

29 Aug. 1874 284 

17 Sept. 1875 286 

21 Sept. 1875 289 

21 Oct. 187s 322 

17 Aug. 1876 326 

26 Sept. 1876 333 

12 Sept 1877 337 

23 Aug. 1878 362 

28 Sept. 187S 378 

22 M.-iy 1879 382 

19 June 1879 384 

5 Sept. 1879 392 

8 Sept. 1879 395 

6 Oct. 1879 397 



II Sept. 18S2 399 

« 406 



[& 



-•^ 



.-. atA*.^^>u'^ItJ»-.iwb*-.^ U uii ^gtfe ft fe^a 



■a 



c& 



-a 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 

Portrait of Her Majesty the Queen \ 

" H. R. H. the Princess Louise I ^ 

" H. R. H. the Princess Helena \% 

" H. R. H. the Princess Beatrice j P 

" Lady Jane Churchill F 

" Mr. John Grant Page 3 

" Mr, John Brown ^i 

" General Grey 6» 

Sharp, die Queen's Collie iqo 

View of Glassalt Shiel ^ jo^ 

Noble, the Queen's Collie 239 

Memorial Cross of H. R. H. the Princess Alice 382 

View cf Glen Gelder Shiel 

397 



tf 



c& 






s- 



•^ 




Caledonia ! thou land of the mountain and rock, 
Ut the ocean, the mist, and the wind— 

Thou land of the torrent, the pine, and the oak. 
Of the roebuck, the hart, and the hind ! 

• • , 

• • , 

Thou land of the valley, the moor, and the hill, 

Of the storm and the proud-rolling wave- 
Yes, thou art the land of fair liberty still, 
And the land of my forefathers' grave*! 

The Ettrick Shepherd. 

A nation famed for song and beauty's charms — 
Zealous yet modest, innocent though free ; ' 
Patient of toil, serene amidst alarms, 
Inflexible in faith, invincible in arms. 

Beattie's Minstrel. 



■^ 



'^^siayriisissciv ■., 



•' '■" "- ""•'^-'■"'""iT iili Tlrrr i i l i l i j i -t^--. yt:. 



tvi^^^Ktasru^*^, 



.'■*Kt*;!b' ■ 



tfl- 



^ 



Building of the Prince's Cairn. 



Balmoral, 
Thursday, August 21, 1862. 

At eleven o'clock started off in the little pony- 
chair (drawn by the Corriemulzie pony, and led 
by Brown), Bertie, who had come over from Birk- 
hall, on foot, the two girls on ponies, and the two 
little boys, who joined us later, for Craig Low- 
rigan ; and I actually drove in the little carriage 
to the very top, turning off from the path and 
following the track where the carts had gone. 
Grant and Duncan pushed the carriage behind. 
Sweet Baby (Beatrice) we found at the top. The 
view was so fine, the day so bright, and the 
heather so beautifully pink — but no pleasure, 
no joy ! all dead ! ' 

And here at the top is the foundation of the 
cairn— forty feet wide— to be erected to my 



•CQ- 



^ 



,.'W 



t yi mr m imm^^—^ 



^ '•nim0,'nilHiriin i mmm >. . ' 



a 



-a 



( ^ ) 

precious Albert, which will be seen all down the 
valley. I and my poor six orphans all placed 
stones on it ; and our initials, as well as those of 
the three absent ones, are to be carved on stones 
all round it. I felt very shaky and nervous. 

It is to be thirty-five feet high, and the follow- 
ing inscription to be placed on it : — 

TO THE BELOVED MEMORY 
OF 

ALBERT, THE GREAT AND GOOD 
PRINCE CONSORT, 

RAISED BY HIS BROKEN-HEARTED WIDOW, 

VICTORIA R. 

AUGUST 21, 1862. 



" He being made perfect in a short time fulfilled a long time ; 
For his soul pleased the Lord, 
Therefore hastened He to take him 
Away from among the wicked." 

Wisdom of Solomon, iv. 13, 14. 

Walked down to where the rough road is, and 
this first short attempt at walking \n the heather 
shook me and tired me much. 



i& 



-ff 



HtillMpit#>«mn.n<u 



'" «> * w ■w ii fc i «feia.yfciaMf«r:k 



-*«**:! <«Mp.SSfe_t^i 



-a 




'\ \ •; 




^ 



*^ ^^f^^^M 



K/ 






fe- 



r 



a 



( 3 ) 



Visit to the Old Cairn on the 
Prince's Birthday 



Babnoralf 
August 26, 1S62. 

I went out at twelve with the two girls on 

ponies (I in the little carriage), Bertie on foot. 

We went to see the obelisk building to His dear 

memory : Bertie left us there, and we went on 

round by the village, up Craig-Gotuan, in the 

little carriage, over the heather till we reached 

near to the old cairn of 1852. Grant said: "I 

thought you would like to be here to-day, on His 

birthday!" — so entirely was he of opinion that 

this beloved day, and even the 14th of December, 

must not be looked upon as a day of mourning. 

•' That's not the light to look at it." There is so 

much true and strong faith in these good, simple 

people. 

Walked down by the Fog* House, all pink 
with heather ; the day beautifully fine and bright. 

* Scotch for " Moss." 



[g. 



B t 



-tJ= 



cB-- 



( 4 ) 



t^iRST Visit td the Prince's Cairn 
AFTER ITS Completion. 



Dalmoraly 
Tuesday, May 19, 1863. 

I went out in the little carriage (Donald Stewart 
leading the pony, as John Brown was unwell) with 
Lenchen and Dr. Robet-tson (Grant following), 
and drove up to the cairn on the top of Craig 
Lowrigan, which is a fine sharp pyramid admira- 
bly constructed out of granite without any mortar. 
The inscription is very well engraved and placed. 
There is a good path made up to the top of the 
hill. 



-a 



'-a- 



-ff 



■a 



j= 



r 



-a 



( 5 ) 



Visit to Blair, 1863. 



Balmoral, 
Tuesday, September 15. 1863. 

At twenty minutes to eight we reached Perth, 
where we breakfasted and dressed, and at twenty 
minutes past nine I left with Lenchen, Augusta 
Bruce, and General Grey, for Blair, going "past 
Dunkeld, where we had not been since 1844, and 
which is so beautifully situated, and Pitlochry, 
through the splendid Pass of KilHecrankie (which 
we so often drove through in 1844), past Mr. 
Butter's place Faskally, on to Blair, having a 
distant peep at the entrance to Glen Tilt, tnd 
Schiehallion, which it made and makes me' sick 
to think of. At the small station were a few 
people— the poor Duke's Highlanders (keepers) 
the dear Duchess. Lord Tullibardine, and Captain 
Drummond of Megginch. 



■B- 



4 



.. ...... ^«^....„.., ,...,Li,-,t ■»,^i,,,.-,af , ,^.,.|(^. , ,,^yyY"ij | ||i1| 



G 



"ft 



( 6 ) 

The Duchess was much affected, still more so 
when she got into the carriage with me. Len- 
chen and the others went in the boat carriage, the 
one we had gone in not two years ago ! 

We dt^ove at once to the house which we had 
visited in such joyful and high spints October 9, 
two years ago. The Duchess took me to the 
same room which I had been in on that day, and, 
after talking a little to me of this dreadful afflic- 
tion,* she went to see if the Duke was ready. She 
soon returned, and I followed h:ir downstairs along 
the passage, full of stags' horns, which we walked 
along, together witli the poor Duke, in 1861. 
When I went in, I found him standing up very 
much altered ; it was very sad. He kissed my 
hand, gave me the white rose which, according to 
tradition, is presented by the Lords of Athole on 
the occpsion of the Sovereign's visit, and v^e sat 
a little while with him. It is a small room, full 
of his rifles and other implements and attributes 
of sport — now for ever useless to him ! A sad, 
sad contrast. He seemed very m.uch pleased and 
gratified. 

* The iJuke was t;ufifering from an incurable illness. 



t. 



■ff 



~B] 



tfl 



^ 



( 7 ) 

We went upstairs again and took some break- 
fast, in the very same room where we breakfasted 
on that very happy, never-to-be-forgotten day, 
full of joy and expectation. While we were 
breakfasting the door opened, and in walked the 
Duke in a thick MacDougal. Mrs. Drummond 
and Miss Moncreiffe (the Duchess's pretty, amiable 
future daughter-in-law) were there, and also Miss 
MacGregor, but we did not see her. The poor 
Duke insisted on going with 'me to the station, 
and he went in the carriage with the Duchess and 
me. At the station he got out, walked about, and 
gave directions. I embraced the dear Duchess 
and gave the Duke my nand, saying, " Dear 
Duke, God bless you ! " He had asked permission 
that his men, the same who had gone with us 
through the glen on that happy day two years 
ago, might give me a cheer, and he led them on 
himself. Oh ! it was so dreadfully sad ! To 
think of the contrast to the time two years ago, 
ivhen my darling was so well and I so happy with 
him, and just beginning to recover from my great 
sorrow for dearest Mama s death — looking forward 
to many more such delightful expeditions ; and the 
poor Duke then full of health and strength, walk- 



B^ 



m- 



w 



fia&sra 



c& 



fb 



( 8 ) 

ing the whole way, and at the " March " * stopping 
to drink to our health and asking us to come again 
whenever we liked, and giving a regular Highland 
cheer in Highland fashion, returned by our men, 
the pipers playing, and all, all so gay, so bright ! 
And I so eager for next year's expeditions, which 
I ought not to have been ! Oh ! how little we 
know what is before us ! How uncertain is life ! 
I felt very sad, but was so much occupied with 
the poor Duke,f for whom I truly grieve, that 
I did not feel the trial of returning to Blair in 
such terribly altered circumstances, as I should 
otherwise have done. 

At Stanley Junction we joined the others, and 
proceeded as usual to Aboyjte, whence we drove 
in open carriages — Lenchen, Alfred, and Baby 
with me — and reached Balmoral at twenty minutes 
past six. It was very cold. Bertie and Alix were 
at the door, and stayed a little while afterwards. 
How strange they should be at Abergeldie ! A few 
years ago dear Mama used to receive us. 

* The boundary of the Duke's property. " March " is the 
word commonly used in Scotland to express the outer limit or 
boundary of land. 

t He died in the following year, January i6, 1864. 



%* 



k 



qa- 



ff 



.i,|atJ•U«!llM^diMM^M^Vj>».^^::tAJilUi.;.^.-V 



..u.^-j:wi;.ii, 



^ 



^ — — 



-ft 



{ 9 ) 



,- 

i 



iV 



',1 



P 



t 



^ 



Carriage Accident. 



lVed?tesday, October 7, 1S63. 

A hazy mornmg. I decided by Alice's advice, 
with a heavy heart, to make the attempt to go to 
Clova. At half-past twelve drove with AHce and 
Lenchen to Altfiagiuthasach, where we lunched, 
having warmed some broth and boiled some 
potatoes, and then rode up and over the Capel 
Month in frequent slight snow-showers. All the 
high hills white with snow ; and the view of the 
green Clova hills covered with snow at the tops, 
with gleams of sunshine between the showers, was 
very fine, but it took us a long time, and I was 
very tired towards the end, and felt very sad and 
lonely. Loch Muich looked beautiful in the setting 
sun as we came down, and reminded me of many 
former happy days I spent there. We stopped to 
take tea at Altnagiuthasack Grant was not with 



-ff 



\m 



l!t 



f 




m- 



a 



( lO ) 

us, having gone with Vicky.* We started at about 
twenty minutes to seven from Altnagiuthasachy 
Brown on the box next Smith, f who was driving, 
little Willem (Alice's black serving boy) behind. 
It was quite dark when we left, but all the lamps 
were lit as usual ; from the first, however, Smith 
seemed to be quite confused (and indeed has 
been much altered of late), and got off the road 
several times, once in a very dangerous place, 
when Alice called out and Brown got off the box 
to show him the way. After that, however, though 
going very slowly, we seemed to be all right, but 
Alice was not at all reassured, and thought Brown's 
holding up the lantern all the time on the box 
indicated that Smith could not see where he was 
going, though the road was as broad and plain as 
possible. Suddenly, about two miles trom Alt- 
nagiuthasach^ and about twenty minutes after we 
had started, the carriage began to turn up on 
one side; we called out: " What's the matter .-* " 
There was an awful pause, during which Alice 

* She and Fritz Wilhelm had come three days before to stay 
at Abergeldie with their chiKVen. 

t Smith was pensioned in 1864 and died in 1866, having 
been thirty- one years in the Royal service. 



•ff 






m » 4 >u< ry < ft ii ; i|*W» y i| fa ri 



-a 



ff 



cQ-- 

I 



^ 



( 



II 



) 



said . " We are upsetting." In another moment — 
during which I had time to reflect whether we 
should be killed or not, and thought there were 
still things I had not settled and wanted to do — 
the carriage turned over on its side, and we were 
all precipitated to the ground ! I came down very 
hard, with my face upon the ground, near the 
carriage, the horses both on the ground, and Brown 
calling out in despair, " The Lord Almighty have 
mercy on us ! Who did ever see the like of 
this before ! I thought you were all killed/' 
Alice was soon helped up by means of tearing 
all her clothes to disentangle her ; but Lenchen, 
who had also got caught in her dress, called out 
very piteously, which frightened m.e a good deal ; 
but she was also got out with Brown's assistance, 
and neither she nor Alice was at ail hurt. I 
reassured them that I was not hurt, and urged that 
we should make the best of it, as it was an in- 
evitable misfortune. Smith, utterly confused and 
bewildered, at length came up to ask if I was 
hurt. Meantime the horses were lying on the 
ground as if dead, and it was absolutely necessary 
to get them up again. Alice, whose calmness 
and coolness were admirable, held one of the 



a 



-ff 



[& 



( 



12. 



) 



lamps while Brown cut the traces, to the horror 
of Smith, and the horses were speedily released 
and got up unhurt. There was now no means of 
getting home except by sending back Smith with 
the two horses to get another carriage. All this 
took some time, about half an hour, before we got 
off. By this time I felt that my face was a good 
deal bruised and swollen, and, above all, my right 
thumb was excessively painful and much swollen ; 
indeed I thought at first it was broken, till we 
began to move it. Alice advised then that we 
should sit down in the carriage — that is, with the 
bottom of the carriage as a back — which we did, 
covered with plaids, little Willem sitting in front, 
with the hood of his " bournous " over his head, 
holding a lantern, Brown holding another, and 
being indefatigable in his attention and care. He 
had hurt his knee a good deal in jumping off the 
carriage. A little claret was all we could get either 
to drink or wash my face and hand. Almost 
directly after the accident happened, I said to 
Alice it was terrible not to be able to tell it to 
my dearest Albert, to which she answered : " But 
he knows it all, and I am sure he watched over 
U3." I am thankful that it was by no impru- 



ft 



f& 



-TP 



"M;kmmmfis^iSHMmmimmi»iii« 



jr.t^ iilittAS k^ 'HftU'ai'^' 



c& 



ft 



( 



'3 



) 



dence of mine, or the slightest deviation from 
what my beloved one and I had always been in 
the habit of doing, and what he sanctioned and 
approved. 

The thought of having to sit here in the road 
ever so long was, of course, not very agreeable, 
but it was not cold, and I remembered from the 
first what my beloved one had always said to me, 
namely, to make the best of what could not be 
altered. We had a faint hope, at one moment, 
that our ponies might overtake us ; but then 
Brown recollected that they had started before 
us. We did nothing but talk of the accident, and 
how it could have happened, and how merciful 
the escape was, and we all agreed that Smith was 
quite unfit to drive me again in the dark. We 
had been sitting here about half an hour when we 
heard the sound of voices and of horses' hoofs, 
which came nearer and nearer To our relief 
we found it was our ponies. Kennedy (whom 
dear Albert liked, and who always went out 
with him, and now generally goes with us) had 
become fearful of an accident, as we were so long 
coming ; he heard Smith going back with the 
ponies, and then, seeing lights moving about, he felt 



t- 



9 



czs- 



Hi 



( >A ) 



convinced something must have happened, ard 
therefore rode back to look for us, which was 
very thoughtful of him, for else we might have 
sat there till ten o'clock. We mounted our ponies 
at once and proceeded home. Brown leading 
Alice's and my pony, which he would not let 
go for fear of another accident. Lenchen and 
Willem followed, led by Alick Grant. Kennedy 
carried the lantern in front. It was quite light 
enough to see the road without a lantern. At 
the hill where the gate of the deer-fence is, above 
the distillery, we met the other carriage, again 
driven by Smith, and a number of stable-people 
come to raise the first carriage, and a pair of horses 
to bring it home. We preferred, however, riding 
home, which we reached at about twenty minutes 
to ten o'clock. No one knew what had happened 
till we told them, Fritz and Louis were at the 
door. People were foolishly alarmed when we 
got upstairs, and made a great fuss. Took only 
a little soup and fish in my room, and had my 
head bandaged. 

I saw the others only for a moment, and got to 
bed rather late. 



c& 



ff 



■ iin,ii^mA ^mM mm^mmA 



cfl— 



— a. 



s 



( 15 ) 



Unveiling of the Prince's Statue 
AT Aberdeen. 



Thursday, October 13, 1863. 

I was terribly nervous. Longed not to have 
to go through this fearful ordeal. Prayed for 
help, and got up earlier. 

A bad morning. The three younger children 
(except Baby), William of Hesse,* and the ladies 
and gentlemen all gone on. I started sad and 
lonely, and so strange without my darling, with 
dear Alice, Lenchen, and Louis. We could not 
have the carriage open. At Aboyne we met 
Vicky and Fritz, and both the couples went with 
me in the railway ; the Princes in Highland dress. 
I felt bewildered. It poured with ram, unfor- 
tunately. To describe the day's proceedings 
would be too painful and difficult; but I annex 



• Youngest brother of Prince Louis of Hesse; 



-^ 



a- 



-a 



Ni 



{ 16 ) 

the account. Vicky and Alice were with me, and 
the long, sad, and terrible procession through the 
crowded streets of Aberdeen, where all were 
kindly, but all were silent, was mournful, and 
as unlike former blessed times as could be con- 
ceived. Unfortunately it continued pouring. The 
spot where the Statue is placed is rather small, 
and on one side close to the bridge, but Maro- 
chetti chose it himself. 

I got out trembling ; and when I had arrived, 
there was no one to direct me and to say, as 
formerly, what was to be done. Oh ! it was and 
is too painful too dreadful ! 

I received (only handed) the Provost's address, 
and knighted him (the first since all ended) with 
General Grey's sword. Then we all stepped on 
to the uncovered and wet platform directly oppo- 
site the Statue, which certainly is low, and rather 
small for out of doors, but fine and like. Prin- 
cipal Campbell's prayer was very long — which was 
trying in the rain — but part of it (since I have 
read it) is really very good. 

I felt very nervous when the Statue was 
uncovered, but much regretted that when they 
presented arms there was no salute with the 



^ 



^ 



wnnri^o:^j3fisf£"i!.'.T^ 



ij*!; ~-^TO'A^»'^^>^;;•jf^^i^fl(^r*NA^»y64s, 



y iH A» U. V ■^/ugrL^'i^-^ 



t& 



( '7 ) 

drums, bugles, or the pipes, for the bands below 
were forbidden to play. I retired almost imme- 
diately. 

Just below and in front of where we stood 
were Lohlein, Mayet, Grant, Brown, Cowley, 
P. Farquharson, D. Stewart, Nestor,* Ross, and 
Paterson, whom we had brought with us — and 
why was my darling not near me ? It was 
dreadfully sad. 

Took a little luncheon in a room upstairs with 
our girls, our footmen serving us. After this we 
left as we came. Affie met us there, and then 
took leave at the station, William of Hesse join- 
ing him. It was quite fair, provokingly so, when 
we got to Aboyne. Here we parted, took leave 
of Vicky and Fritz, and drove back in an open 
carriage, reaching Balmoral at half-past six. 
Very tired ; thankful it was over, but the recol- 
lection of the whole scene, of the whole journey, 
without my dear Albert, was dreadful ! Formerly 
how we should have dwelt on all ! 

* Lohlein, the Prince Consort's va' . Mayet, the Prince 
Consort's second valet, then with Prince Leopold. Cowley, 
the Prince Consort's Jager from 1848, pensioned in 1848, 
formerly in the Blues. Nestor Tirard, the Queen's hairdresser 
since 1846. 



^ 



fy- 



r 






c& 



T 

; I 



i 



i'^ 



a 



( '8 ) 



[The following account of the ceremonial is taken 
from the " Scotsman " newspaper of October 14, 1863. 

The preparations made at the North-Eastern Station 
at Aberdeen for the reception of Her Majesty and the 
Princes and Princesses, were very simple and undemon- 
strative. Two huge flags were suspended across the inside 
entrance, and the floor of the passage leading into the 
portico at Guild Street was laid with crimson cloth. The 
following gentlemen were in waiting at the station, and 
received the rc) ..I party on the platform : The Duke of 
Richmond ; the Lord Provost and Magistrates ; the Earl 
of Aberdeen ; Lord Saltoun ; Sir J. D. H. Elphinstone ; 
Sir Alexander Bannerman, Bart. ; Lord Barcaple ; Mr. 
Thomson of Banchory ; Colonel Eraser of Castle Eraser ; 
Colonel Eraser, younger, of C;istle Lraser ; Mr. Leslie of 
Warthill, M.P. ; Mr. Irvine of Drum, convener of the 
county ; Colonel Earquharson of Invercauld ; Sheriff 
Davidson ; John Webster, Esq., and several of the rail- 
way directors and officials. 

On leaving the station, the procession was formed 
into the following order, and proceeded by way of Guild 
Street, Regent Quy, Marischal Street, Castle Street, and 
Union Street, to the site of the Memorial : — 

Body of Police. 

Detachment of Cavalry. 

The Convener and Master of Hospital of the 

Incorporated Trades. 



■B- 



■ff 



igl-jjig'^-pa^jj^ifsi^ 



[& 



( '9 ) 



-^ 



The Principal and Professors of the University of Aberdeen. 

'I'he City Architect. 

His Grace the Duke of Richmond, the Convener and Sheriff 

of the County, and tlie Committee of Subscribers to the 

Memorial. 

The Lord Provost, 

and Magistrates, and Town Council. 

The Suite in Attendance on Her Majesty and Royal Family. 

Lady Augusta Bruce (in attendance on the Queen). 

Countess Hohenthal (in attendance on Crown- Princess). 

Baroness Schenck (in attendance on Princess Louis of Hesse). 

Sir George (irey. 

The Princes Alfred, Arthur, and Leopold. 

Lady Churchill (Lady-in-Waiting). 

The Princess Helena. 

The Princess Louise. 

The Crown-Prince of Prussix 

The Prince Louis of Hesse. 

The Princess Louis of Hesse. 

The Crown-Princess of Prussia. 

THE QUEEN. 
Cavalry Escort. 

The procession wound its way along the densely 
packed streets amid the deepest silence of the assem- 
blage, everybody seeming to be animated by a desire to 
abstain from any popular demonstrations that might be 
d'stasteful to Her Majesty. On reaching the Northcin 
Club buildings, Her Majesty, accompanied by the Prince 
and Princesses, Sir Charles Phipps,* Lord Charles Fitz- 

* Keeper of the Privy Purse, who died February 24, 1866, 
to my great regret, for he was truly devoted and attached to 



^ 



ct 



W 



'••-^tUilf JUUMdJkJL^ '. ■ 



E&-" 



a 



( 20 ) 

roy, Major-General Hood, Dr. Jenner, General Grey, and 
the ladies and gentlemen of the suite, passed from their 
carriages into the lobby, and thence into the billiard 
room— a handsome lofty room, which forms a half oval 
at the end towards Union Terrace. The Lord Provost 
then presented the following address to Her Majesty: — 

To THE Queen's Most Excel:-ent Majesty. 

The humble Address of Her Majesty's loyal and dutiful sub- 
jects, the contributors to the erection in Aberdeen of a 
Memorial Statue of His Royal Highness the Prince- 
Consort. 

May it please your Majesty, 

We, your Majesty's most loyal and dutiful subjects, the 
contributors to the erection in Aberdeen of a Memorial Stntue 
of His Royal Highness the Prince-Consort, humbly beg leave 
to approach your Majesty with the expression of our devoted 
attachment to your Majesty's person and government. 

We are enabled this day to bring to completion the work 
which we undertook in sorrowing and grateful remembrance of 
that illustrious Prince, whose remove ' by the inscrutable will of 
Providence we, in common with ail your Majesty's subjects, 
can never cease to deplore. 

No memorial is necessary to preserve the name of one who 
adorned the tiighest station of the land by the brightest display 
of intellectual and moral orreatness, as well as the purest and 
most ealightened zeal for the public good ; whose memory is 
revered throughout the world, as that of few Princes has ever 
been ; and whose example will ever be cherished as a most 
precious inheritance by this great nation. Yet, in this part of 

the dear Prince and me, with whom he had been for twenty 
years. 



< 



fa- 



4> 



' • H/ r> " i i i< i; i «^r,V> 



-a 



[& 



■a 



'I 



i 



( 2. ) 

the United Kingdom, which was honoured by the annual pre- 
sence of the illustrious Prince, and in this city, which a few- 
years ago was signally favoured by the exertion of his great 
talen's as President of the British Association for the Advance- 
ment of Science, an earnest desire pervaded all ranks to give 
permanent expression to the profound reverence and affection 
he had insjured. 

How inadequate for such a purpose the memorial we have 
erected must be, we ourselves most deeply feel. But that your 
Majesty should have on this occasion trraciously come forth 
again to receive the public homage of your loyal and devoted 
people, we regard as a ground of heartfelt thankfulness ; and 
viewing it as a proof that your Majesty approves the humble 
but sincere tribute of our sorrow, we shall ever be grateful for 
the exertion which your Majesty has made to afford us this 
proof. 

i'hat Almighty God, the souice of all strength, may comfort 
your Majesty's heart, prospering all your Majesty's designs and 
efforts for your people's good ; that He may bestow His choicest 
favours on yc 'r royal offspring, and continue to your devoted 
subjects for many years the blessings of your Majesty's reign, is 
our earnest and constant prayer. 

In name of the Contributors, 

At.ex. Anderson, 

lord Provost of Aberdeen, 
Chairman of the Committee of Contributors. 

Aberdeen, October 13, 1S63, 

On receiving the address, Her Majesty bandied the 
following reply to the Lord Provost : — 

Your loyal and affectionate address has deeply touched me 
and I thank you for it from my heart. 



4* 



f& 



■ff 



■''»l*ii«»W. 



a 



ft 



i 



( 22 ) 

It was with feelings which I fail in seeking words to express 
that I determined to attend here to-day to witness the inaugurat- 
ing of the statue which will record to ful ire times the love and 
respect of the people of this county and city for my great and 
beloved husband. But I could not reconcile it to myself to 
remain at Balmoral while such a tribute was being paid to his 
memory without making an exertion to assure you per; onally of 
the deep and heartfelt sense I entertain of your kindness and 
affection ; and at the same time proclaim in public the un- 
bounded reverence and admiration and the devoted love that 
fill my heart for him whose loss must throw a lasting gloom 
o\ er all my future life. 

Never can I forget the circumstances to which you so f c' • 
ingly alluded— that it was in this ( ity he delivered his remark- 
able address to the British Association a very few years ago ; and 
that in this county we had for so many years been in the habit 
of spending some of the happiest days of our lives. 

After the Queen's reply had been handed to the Lord 
Provost, Sir George Grey commanded his Lordship 
to kneel, when Her Majesty, taking a sword from Sir 
George, touched the Provost on each shoulder and said 
— "Rise, Sir Alexander Anderson." This ceremony 
concluaed, the Queen and the whole of the royal party 
then proceeded to the platform, Her Majesty's appearance 
on which was the signal for the multitude gathered out- 
side to uncover their heads. Her Majesty, who appeared 
to be deeply melancholy and much depressed, though 
calm and collected, advanced to the front of the platform 
while the Princes, who were all dressed in Royal Stewart 
tartan, and the Princesses, who wore blue silk dresses, 
white bonnets, and dark grey cloaks, took up a position 



E^- 




ii 



i' 



a 



. 



I 



c& 



-ff 



( 23 ) 

immediately behind her. The proceedings were opened 
with a prayer by Principal Campbell, who spoke for 
about ten minutes, the assemblage standing uncovered 
in the rain, which was falling heavily at the time. During 
the time the learned Principal was engaged in prayer, 
Her Majesty more than once betrayed manifest and well- 
justified signs of impatience at the length of the oration. 
At the conclusion of the prayer, a signal was given, the 
bunting which had concealed the statue was hoisted to 
the top of a flagstaff, and the ceremony was complete. 

Her Majesty, having scanned the statue narrowly, 
bowed to the assemblage and retired from the platform, 
followed by the royal party. After the illustrious com- 
pany had lunched in the club, the procession was re- 
formed and proceeded the same way as it came to the 
Scottish North-Eastern Station in Guild Street. Her 
Majesty left Aberdeen about three o'clock.] 



^^■ 



-a 



-ff 



. ii M i»iiii> imili<i, i H i Hj i i^ iM 



t& 



( 24 ) 



--a 



Expedition to Invermark. 



Tuesday, September 19, 1865. 

On waking I felt very low and nervous at the 
thought of the expedition. All so sadly changed. 
Started at eleven o'clock with Lenchen and Jane 
Churchill, Grant and Brown on the box — like in 
former happy times. General Grey had preceded 
us, and we found him at the Bridge of Muick, 
where our ponies were waiting. We had four 
gillies, three of whom were with us in 1861 
(Smith, Morgan, and Kennedy). The heat v/as 
intense going up the Polach, I got well enough 
through the bog, but Jane Churchill's pony 
floundered considerably. We lunched when we 
had crossed the Tanar and gone a little way up 
Mount Keen, and General Grey then went on to 
meet Lord Dalhousie. Two of his foresters had 
come to show us the way. We remounted after 



^- 



# 



'/ 



\ 



''.",S"/f,'i'WJ"S!'!?T',':'(? ■ 



I'l MH i iii wi mnn i w » n m il mm t y tt 



'■i#iirt(«i iiiiiiy||i» 



-R 






ff 



[fi- 



( =5 ) 

sitting and resting- a little while, and ascended 
the shoulder of Mount Keen, and then rode on. 
The distance was very hazy. We got off and 
walked, after which I rode down that fine wild pass 
called the Ladder Burn ; but it seemed to strike 
me much less than when I first saw it, as ail ;s flat 
now. At the foot of the pass Lord Dalhousie met 
us with General Grey, and welcomed us kindly; 
and at the Shiel, a little further on, where we had 
lunched in 1861, Lady Christian Maule, Lord Dal- 
housie's sister, met us. She was riding. We then 
went on a few yards further till we came to the 
Welly where we got off. It is really beautiful, 
built of white stones in the shape of the ancient 
crown of Scotland-, and in one of the piUars a 
plate is inserted with this inscription : " Queen 
Victoria with the Prince Consort visited this well 
and drank of its refreshing waters on the 20th 
Septemb-r, 1861, the year of Her Majesty's great 
sorrow ; " and round the spring, which bubbles 
up beautifully, and quite on a level with the 
ground, is inscribed in old English characters the 
following legend : — 

Rest, traveller, on this lonely green, 

And drink and pray for Scotland's Queen. 



t 



a 



-4. 



ifi 



ft 



i 



( =6 ) 

We drank with sorrowing hearts from this very 
well, where just four years ago I had drunk with 
my beloved Albert ; and Grant handed me his 
flask (one I had given him) out of which we had 
drunk on that day ! Lord Dalhousie has kindly 
built this well in remembrance of that occasion. 
It was quite a pilgrimage. 

We afterwards had some tea, close by ; and this 
fine wide glen was seen at its best, lit up as it 
was by the evening sun, warm as on a summer's 
day, without a breath of air, the sky becoming 
pinker and pinker, the hills themselves, as you 
looked down the glen, assuming that beautifully 
glowing tinge which they do of an evening. The 
Highlanders and ponies grouped around the well 
had a most picturesque effect. And yet to me 
all seemed strange, unnatural, and sad. 

We mounted again, and went on pursuing the 
same way as we had done four years ago, going past 
the old Castle of Invermark. As there was time, 
however, we rode on to Loch Lee, just beyond it, 
which we had only seen from a distance on the last 
occasion. It is quite small, but extremely pretty, 
and was beautifully lit up, reminding me of the 
farthest end of Loch Muich. After this we rode 






i&- 



■ff 






-a 



a- 



( 27 ) 

up to the house, the little drawing-room of which 
I well remembered ; it brought all back to me. 
Lady Christian took us upstairs. I had two nice 
small rooms. The two maids,. Lenchen and 
Lady Churchill, and Brown were all in our passage, 
away from the rest of the house. I felt tired, sad, 
and bewildered. For the first time in my life 
I was alone in a strange house, without either 
mother or husband, and the thought overwhelmed 
and distressed me deeply. I had a dear child with 
me, but those loving ones above me were both 
gone, — their support taken away ! It seemed so 
dreadful ! How many visits we paid together, my 
darling and I, and how we ever enjoyed them ! 
Even when they were trying and formal, the hap- 
piness of being together, and a world in ourselves, 
was so great. 

Dinner was below, in a pretty room which I 
also remembered. Only Lord Dalhousie, Lady 
Christian, the General, Lady Churchill, Lenchen, 
and L I stayed but a short while below after 
dinner, and then went up with Lenchen and 
Jane Churchill, and afterw^i-ds walked ouJ: a 
little with Jane. It was very warm. 



-a 



I 



^ 






a 



( =8 ) 



ft 



Wednesday, September 20. 

A beautiful morning. Breakfasted alone with 
Lenchen in my own little sitting-room — waited on 
by Brown, who is always ready to try to do any- 
thing required. At eleven we went out, and I 
planted two trees, and Lenchen one (instead of 
her blesr.ed Father, alas !) We then mounted our 
ponies as yesterday, and proceeded (accompanied 
by Lord Dalhousie, Lady Christian, ^nd several of 
his foresters) by a shorter road past the v. ell, where 
we did not get off, up the Ladder Btirn, on our 
homeward journey. We went the same way, 
stopping at the " March," where, in a high wind, 
we got off and lunched under some stones. Good 
Lord Dalhousie * was most hospitable and kind. 
The luncheon over, they took leave and went back, 
and General Grey went on in advance. As it was 
only one o'clock when we sat down to luncheon, 
we remained sitting some little time before we 
commenced our downward course. It was to-day 
— strange to say — the anniversary of our firnt 
visit to Invermark. Then we proceeded down 

• He died in 1874. 



t 



-i 



11 



■i!toii'^SyS?¥?,l-«.. ; >fe3MS«»i«|!>^«E«&«f¥i?S* 



(fl— 



a 



( 29 ) 



the same way we had come up, across the Tanar, 
and when we had gone up some little way we 
stopped a^ain, a"s we were anxious not to hurry 
home, and moreover the carriage would not have 
been ready to meet us. We had some tea, sketched 
a little, and rode on again ; the sky had become 
dark and cloudy, and suddenly down came a most 
violent shower of rain which beat fiercely with the 
wind. We were just then going over the boggy 
part, which, however, we got across very veil. As 
we came over the Polach the rain ceased. The 
view of the Valley of the Gairn and Muic/i as you 
descend is beautiful, and reminded me forcibly of 
our last happy expedition in 1861, when Albert 
stopped to talk to Grant about the two forests, 
and said he and Grant might possibly be dead 
before they were completed ! 1 her-e lay the land- 
scape stretched out — the same as before ; and all 
else was changed ! 

We got home at ten minutes past seven o'clock, 
when it was still raining a little. 



^ 



^ 



c& 



"^ 



First Visit to Dunkkld, 



Monday, October <^, 1865. 

A thick, misty, very threatening morning! 
There was no help for it, but it was sadly pro- 
voking. It was the same once or twice in former 
happy days, and my dear Albert always said we 
could not alter it, but must leave it as it was, and 
make the best of it. Our three little ones break- 
fasted with me. I was grieved to leave :ny pre- 
cious Baby and poor Leopold behiiid. /.t ten 
started with Lenchen and Janie Ely (the same 
attendants on the box). General Grey had gone 
on an hour and a half before. We took post-horses 
at Castleton. It rained more or less the whole 
' ime. Then came the long well-known stage to 
xki^Spitalof Glenshee, which seemed to me longer 
than ev. .. The mist hung very thick over the 
hills. We changed horses there, and about a 






^■ 



# 



■a 




':'^M>!^ 



SJ 







[& 



--^ 



( i' ) 



t- 



quarter of an hour after we had left it, we stopped 
to lunch in the carriage. After some delay we 
went on and turned into Strathardle, and then, 
leavinqf the Blairgowrie road, down to the farm 
o{ Pitcarmich, shortly before coming to which Mr. 
Small Keir * of Kindrogan met us and rode before 
us to this farm. Here we found General Grey 
and our ponies, and here the dear Duchess of 
A thole and Miss MacGregor met us, and we got 
out and went for a short while into the farmhouse, 
where we took some wine and biscuit. Then we 
mounted our p nies (I on dear Fyvie, Lenchen 
on Brechin), and started on our course across the 
hill. There was much mist. This obscured all 
the view, which otherwise would have been very 
fine. At first there was a rough road, but soon 
there was nothing but a sheep-track, and hardl) 
that, through heather and stones up a pretty steep 
hill. Mr. Keir could not keep up with the im- 
mense pace of Brown and Fyvie. which distanced 
every one; so he had to drop behind, and his 
keeper acted as guide. There was by this time 
heavy driving rain, with a thick mist. About a 
litde more than an hour took us to the " March," 
* His father was presented to me at Dunkeld in 1842. 



■^ 



r& 



-a 



( 32 ) 

where two of the Dunkeld men met us, John 
McGregor, the Duke's head wood-forester, and 
Gregor McGregor, the Duchess's gamekeeper ; 
and the former acted as a guide. The Duchess 
and Miss MacGregor were riding with us. We 
went from here through larch woods, the rain 
pouring at times violendy. We pasced (after 
crossing the Dunkeld March) Little Loch Oishne, 
and Lock Oishne, before coming to Loch Ordie. 
Here dripping wet we arrived at about a quarter- 
past six, having left Pitcarmich at twenty minutes 
to four. It was dark already from the very bad 
weather. We went into a lodge here, and had 
tea and whisky, and Lenchen had to get herself 
dried, as she was so wet. About seven we drove 
off from Loch Ordie. There was no outrider, so 
we sent on first the other carriage with Lenchen, 
Lady Ely, and Miss MacGregor, and General 
Grey on the box, and I went with the Duchess in 
a phaeton which had a hood — Brown and Grant 
going behind. It was pitch-dark, and we had to 
go through a wood, and I must own I was some- 
what nervous. 

We had not gone very far when we perceived 
that we were on a very rough road, and I became 



tg_. 



ff 






-L'.raSiffgfrwTrvi'-i'vi 



a- 



a 



•B- 



t 






) 



much alarmed, though I would say nothing. A 
branch took off Grant's cap, and we had to stop 
for Brown to go back and look for it with one of 
the carriage-lamps. This stoppage was most for- 
tunate, for he then discovered we were on a com- 
pletely wrong road. Grant and Brown had both 
been saying, " This is no carriage-road ; it is full 
of holes and stones." Miss MacGregor came to 
us in great distress, saying she did not know what 
to do, for that the coachman, blinded by the driving 
rain, had mistaken the road, and that we were in 
a track for carting wood. What was to be done, 
no one at this moment seemed to know — whether 
to try and turn the carriage (which proved impos- 
sible) or to take a horse out and send the postilion 
back to Lock Ordie to get assistance. At length 
we heard from General Grey that we could go on, 
though where we should get out, no one could 
exactly tell. Grant took a lamp out of the carriage 
and walked before the horses, while Brown led 
them ; and this reassured me. But the road was 
very rough, and we had to go through some deep 
holes full of water. At length, in about twenty 
minutes, we saw a light and passed a lodge, where 
we stopped and inquired where we were, for wc 



-B 



c& 



a 



¥ 



( 34 ) 

had already come upon a good road. Our relief 
was great when we were told we were all right. 
Grant and Brown got up behind, and we trotted 
along the high road fast enough. Just before 
we came to the lodge, General Grey called out 
to ask which way the Duchess thought we should 
go, and Brown answered in her name, " The 
Duchess don't know at all where we are," as it 
was so dark she could not recognise familiar 
places. At length at a quarter to nine we arrived 
quite safely at Diinkeld, at the Duchess's nice, 
snug little cottage, which is just outside the town, 
surrounded by fine large grounds. Two servants 
in kilts, and the steward, received us at the door. 
You come at once on the middle landing of 
the staircase, the cottage being built on sloping 
ground. The Duchess took me to my room, a 
nice little room, next to which was one for my 
wardrobe maid, Mary Andrews.* Lenchen was 
upstairs near Miss MacGregor on one side of the 
drawing-room, which was given up to me as my 
sitting-room, and the Duchess's room on the 
other. Brown, the only other servant in the 
house, below, Grant in the adjoining buildings 
• She left my service in 1866. , . . 



c& 



■ff 



[& 



ft 



f& 



{ 



00 



) 



to the house. The General and Lady Ely were 

at the hotel. We dined at half-past nine in 

a small dining-room below, • only Lenchen, the 

Duchess, Miss MacGregor, and I. Everything 

so nice and quiet. The Duchess and Miss 

MacGregor carving, her three servants waiting. 

They were so kind, and we talked over the day's 

adventures. Lenchen and every one, except the 

Duchess and myself, had been drenched. The 

Duchess and her cousin stayed a short while, and 

then left us, and I wrote a little. Strange to say, 

it was four years to-day that we paid our visit to 

Blair and rode up Gle7i Tilt, How different! 

Tuesday, October lo. 

A hopelessly wc morning. I had slept well, 
but felt sad on awaking. Breakfasted alone 
with Lenchen downstairs, each day waited on by 
Brown. A dreadful morning, pouring rain. Sat 
upstairs in the drawing-room, and wrote a good 
deal, being perfectly quiet and undisturbed. 

Lenchen and I lunched with the Duchess and 
Miss MacGregor, and at four we drove up to the 
Duchess's very fine model farm of SL Colmes, 



W 



p 



t& 



a 



ti 



( 36 ) 

about four miles from Dunkeld\ the Duchess and 
I in the phaeton, Lenchen, Janie Ely, and Miss 
MacGregor going in the other carriage. We went 
all over the farm in detail, which is very like 
ours at Osborne and Windsor, much having been 
adopted from our farms there ; and my dearest 
Husband had given the Duchess so much advice 
about it, that we both felt so sad he should not 
see it. 

We took tea in the farmhouse, where the 
Duchess has kept one side quite for herself, and 
where she intends to live sometimes with Miss 
MacGregor, and almost by themselves. From 
here we drove back and stopped at the " Byres" 
close by the stables, which were lit up with gas, 
and where we saw all the cows being milked. 
Very fine Ayrshire cows, and nice dairymaids. 
It is all kept up just as the late Duke wished 
it. We came home at past seven. It never 
ceased raining. The Cathedral bell began quite 
unexpectedly to ring, or almost toll, at eight 
o'clock, which the Duchess told us was a very 
old custom — in fact, the curfew-bell. It sounds 
very melancholy. 

Dinner just as yesterday. 



t& 



& 



^r<&L*2S£K 



.;W!f»^*;- i«*--^-r. 



[fl- 



a 



( 37 ) 



Wednesday, October 1 1. 

Another wretchedly wet morning. Was much 
distressed at breakfast to find that poor Brown's 
legs had been dreadfully cut by the edge of his 
wet kilt on Monday, just at the back of the knee, 
and he said nothing about it ; but to-day one 
became so inflamed, and swelled so much, that he 
could hardly move. The doctor said he must 
keep it up as much as possible, and walk very 
little, but did not forbid his going out with the 
carriage, which he wisned to do. I did not go 
out in the morning, and decided to remain till 
Friday, to give the weather a chance. It cleared 
just before luncheon, and we agreed to take a 
drive, which we were able to do almost without 
any rain. At half-past three we drove out just 
as yesterday. There was no mist, so that, though 
there was no sunshine, we could see and admire 
the country, the scenery of which is beautiful. 
We drove a mile along the Blair Road to Polney 
Loch, where we entered the woods, and, skirting 
the loch, drove at the foot of Craig y Barns on 
grass drives — which were very deep and rough, 



^ 



& 



i^ 



tS- 



a 



( 33 ) 

owing to the wet weather, but extremely pretty — 
on to the Loc/t Ordie road. After ascending this 
for a httle way we left it, driving all round Cally 
Loch (there are innumerable lochs) through Cally 
Gardens along another fine but equally rough wood 
drive, which comes out on the Blairgowrie high 
road. After this we drove round the three Lochs 
of the Lowes — viz, Craig Lush, Butterstone, and 
the Loch of the Lowes itself (which is the largest). 
They are surrounded by trees and woods, of 
which there is no end, and are very pretty. We 
came back by the Blairgowrie rjad and drove 
through Dunkeld (the people had been so discreet 
and quiet, I said 1 would do this), crossing over 
the bridge (where twenty-two years ago ^ye were 
met by twenty of ♦:he Athole Highlanders, who 
conducted us to the entrance of the grounds), and 
proceeded by the upper road to the Rumbling 
Bridge, which is Sir William Stewart of Grand- 
tullys property. We got out here and walked to 
the bridge, under which the Braan flo\yed over the 
rocks most splendidly ; and, swollen by the rain, 
it came down in an immense volume of water with 
a deafening noise. Returning thence we drove 
through the village of Inz'er to the Hermitage 



eg-.. 



^ 



i 



-fl] 



c& 



( 39 ) 

on the banks of the Braan, which is Dunkeld 
property. This is a h'ttle house full of looking- 
glasses, with painted walls, looking on another 
fall of the Braan, where we took tea almost in 
the dark. It was built by James, the second 
Duke of Athole, in the last century. We drove 
back through Dunkeld again, the people cheer- 
""•g- Quite fair. We came home at half-past six 
o'clock. Lady Ely and General Grey dined with 
us. After dinner only the Duchess came to the 
drawing-room, and read to us again. Then I 
wrote, and Grant waited instead of Brown, who 
was to keep quiet on account of his leg. 



■a 






\ 



4 



4 



Thursday, October 12. 

A fair day, with no rain, but, alas ! no sunshine. 
Brown's leg was much better, and the doctor 
thought he could walk over the hill to-morrow. 

Excellent breakfasts, such splendid cream and 
butter! The Duchess has a very good cook, a 
Scotchwoman, and I thought how dear Albert 
would have liked it all. He always said things 
tasted better in smaller houses. There were seve- 
ral Scotch dishes, two soups, and the celebrated 



^ 



ii 



r- 



■a 



( 40 ) 



" haggis," which I tried last nigiit, and really 
liked very much. The Duchess was delighted 
at my taking it. 

At a quarter past twelve Lenchen and I walked 
with the Duchess in the grounds and saw the 
Cathedral, part of which is converted into a parish 
church, and the other part is a most picturesque 
ruin. We saw the tomb of the Wolf of Badenoch, 
son of King Robert the Second. There are also 
other monuments, but in a very dilapidated state. 
The burying-ground is inside and south of the 
Cathedral. We walked along the side of the river 
Taj', into which the river Braan flows, under very 
fine trees, as far as the American garden, and 
then round by the terrace overlooking the park, 
on which the tents were pitched at the time of 
the great dejeuner that the Duke, then Lord 
Glenlyon, gave us in 1842, which was our first 
acquaintance with the Highlands and Highland 
customs ; and it was such a fine sight ! Oh ! and 
here we were together — both widows ! 

We came back through the kitchen-garden by 
half- past one o'clock. After the usual luncheon, 
drove with Lenchen, the Duchess, and Miss 
MacGregor, at twenty minutes to four, in her 



t- 



w 



\ 






ill 



. nmmx i mm ti 



a 



X! 



cfi-- 



^ 



( 41 ) 

sociable to Loc/i Ordie, by the lakes of Rotmell 
and Dowally through the wood, being- the road 
by which we ought to have come the first night 
when we lost our way. It was cold, but the sky 
was quite bright, and it was a fine evening; and 
the lake, wooded to the water's edge and skirted 
by distant hills, looked extremely pretty. We took 
a short row on it in a " coble " rowed by the head 
keeper, Gregor M'Gregor. We took tea under 
the trees. The evening was very cold, and it was 
getting rapidly dark. We came back safely by 
the road the Duchess had wished to come the 
other night, but which her coachman did not 
think safe on account of the precipices ! We got 
home at nine. Only the Duchess and Miss Mac 
Gregor dined with us. The Duke's former excel- 
lent valet, Christie (a Highlander, and now the 
Duchess's house-steward), and George McPherson, 
piper, and Charles McLaren, footman, two nice, 
good-looking Highlanders in the Athole tartan, 
waited on us. The Duchess read again a little to 
us after dinner. 



a 



w 



a- 



( 42 ) 



a 



Friday, October 13. 

Quite a fine morning, with bright gleams of 
sunshine lighting up everything. The piper 
played each morning in the garden during break- 
fast. Just before we left at ten, I planted a tree, 
and spoke to an old acquaintance, Willie Duff, the 
Duchess's fisherman, who had formerly a very long 
black beard and hair, which are r.ow quite grey. 
Mr. Carrington, who has been Secretary in the 
Athole family for four generations, was presented. 
General Grey, Lady Ely, and Miss MacGregor 
had gone on a little while before us. Lenchen 
and I, with the Duchess, went in the sociable 
with four horses (Brown and Grant on the box). 
The weather was splendid, and the view, as we 
drove along the Inverness 7?^;^- -which is the 
road to Blair — with all the mountains rising in the 
distance, was beautiful. 

We passed through the village of Ballinliiig, 
where there is a railway station, and a quarter of 
a mile below which the Tay and the Tummel 
unite, at a place called ^ogierait. All these 
names were familiar to me from our stay in 1S44. 



: 



l& 



-^ 






N 



— Tur i rtin mn w i iii 



■■•Mw uMfa 'ii * *tlll»'i<llli» W 



n illi l lll » wi i>WiH w'«l» l i. <*«ii 



-& 



\ 



-ff 



[fl- 



( 43 ) 



We saw the place where the monument to the 
Duke is to be raised, on an eminence above 
Logierait. About eleven miles from Dunkeld, 
just below Croftinloan (Captain Jack Murray's), 
we took post-horses. You could see Pitlochry in 
the distance to the left. We then left the Inver- 
ness Road, and turned to the right, up a very 
steep hill past Dunavourd (Mr. Napier's, son of 
the historian), past Edradour (the Duke's pro- 
perty), over a wild moor, reminding one very 
much of Aberarder (near Balmoral), whence, 
looking back, you have a beautiful view of the 
hills Schiehallion, Ben Lo?nond, and Ben Lawers. 
This glen is called Glen Brearichan, the little 
river of that name uniting with the Female, and 
receiving afterwards the name of the Ardle. On 
the left hand a shoulder of Ben-y-Gloe is seen. 

We lunched in the carriage at ten minutes past 
twelve, only a quarter of a mile from the West 
Lodge of Kindrogan (Mr. Keir's). Here were 
our ponies, and General Grey, Lady Ely, and 
Miss MacGregor. We halted a short while to 
let General Grey get ahead, and then started 
on our ponies, Mr. Keir walking with us. We 
passed Mr. Keir's house of Kindrogan, out at 



h 



a 



w 



« 



^- 



•-a 



( 44 ) 



tlie East Lodge, by the little village of Enoch 
Dim, up the rather steep ascent and approach of 
Dirnanean, Mr. Small's place ; passing his house 
as wc went. Mr. Small was absent, but two of his 
people, fine, tall-looking men, led the way ; two 
of Mr. Kcir's were also with us. We turned over 
the hill from here, through a wild, heathery glen, 
and then up a grrssy hill called the Laric/i, just 
above the Spital. Looking back the view was 
splendid, one range of hills behind the other, of 
different shades of blue. After we had passed 
the summit, we stopped for our tea, about twenty 
minutes to four, and seated ourselves on the 
grass, but had to wait for some time till a kettle 
arrived which had been forgotten, and had to be 
sent for from the Spital. This caused some 
delay. At length when tea was over, we walked 
down a little way, and then rode. It was really 
most distressing to me to see what pain poor 
Brown suffered, especially in going up and down 
the hill. He could not go fast, and walked lame, 
but would not give in. His endurance on this 
occasion showed a brave heart indeed, for he re- 
sisted all attempts at being relieved, and would 
not relinquish his charge. 



©- 



-A 



i 



u*mt^Mi*«m>>'0miMf*^*!^.^ 



c&- 



"li 



( 45 ) 



We took leave of the dear kind Duchess and 
Miss MacGregor, who were going back to /Cm- 
drogan, and got into the carriage. We were able 
to ascend the Devil's Elbow before it was really 
dark, and got to Castleton at half-past seven, 
where we found our own horses, and reached 
Balmoral at half-past eight. 






t^ 



-ff 



I. 



e- 



( 46 ) 



ft 



Skcond Visit to Dunkeld. 



Monday, October 1, 1866. 

A very fine morning. Got up earlier, and 
breakfasted earlier, and left at a quarter to ten 
with Louise and Janie Ely (attended by Brown and 
Grant as formerly) ; Arthur having gone on with 
General Grey. We met many droves of cattle 
on the road, as it was the day for the tryst at 
Casileton. It was very hot, the sun very bright, 
and the Cairn Wall looked wild and grand. 
But as we went on the sky became dull and over- 
cast, and we almost feared there might be rain. 
We walked down the DeviVs Eibow^ and when 
within a mile and a half of the Spital we stopped 
and lunched in the carriage, and even sketched 
a little. A little way on the north side of the 
spital were the ponies, Gordon for me, Brechin 
for Louise, and Cromar for Janie Ely. There was 



t.- 



ff 



^.^,..*-*r*- 



"W i iwu<»i i> - i '■- 



[& 



a 



t 



( 47 ) 

a pony for Arthur, which he did not ride, and 
for Grant or any one who was tired. The dear 
Duchess of Athole and Miss MacGregor came to 
meet us here, and when we had reached the spot 
where the road turns up the hill, we found Mr. 
Keir and his son, and Mr. Small of Dirnanea7i — a 
strong, good-looking, and pleasing person about 
thirty-two — and his men, the same two fine tall 
men, preceding us as last year. It was a steep 
climb up the hill which we had then come down, 
and excessively hot The views both ways beauti- 
ful, though not clear. The air was very heavy and 
oppressive. We went the same way as before, 
but the ground was very wet from the great 
amount of rain. We stopped a moment in passing, 
at Dir7ianean, to speak to Miss Small, Mr. Small's 
sister, a tall, stout young lady,* and then went on 
to Kindrogan, Mr. Keir's. Ail about here the 
people speak Gaelic, and there are a few who do 
not speak a word of English. Soon after entering 
Mr. Keir's grounds we got off our ponies, and went 
along a few yards by the side of the river Ardle 
to where Mr. Keir had got a fire kindled and 

* Their father, a nian of immense size, was presented to me 
at Dunkeld in 1842. 



-E? 



!l 



« 



r 



( 48 ) 



a kettle boiling, plaids spread and tea prepared. 
Mrs. Keir and her two daughters were there. She 
is a nice quiet person, and was a Miss Menzies, 
daughter of Sir Niel Menzies, whom I saw at 
Taymouth in 1842. Only we ladies remained. 
The tea over, we walked up to the house, which 
is a nice comfortable one. We waited here a 
little while, and I saw at the door Major Balfour 
of Fernie, the intended bridegroom of Mr. Keir's 
youngest daughter. At a little over a quarter- 
past five started in my sociable, with Louise and 
the Duchess. We came very fast and well with 
the Duchess's horses by exactly the same road 
we drove from Dtmkeld last year. The horses 
were watered at the small halfway house of 
Ballinliiig, and we reached DunkfM in perfect 
safety at ten minutes past seven. I am where 
I was before, Louise in Lenchen's room, and 
Arthur in a room next to where Brown was be- 
fore, and is now. ' All the rest the same, and 
snug, peaceful, and comfortable. 



t& 



a 



# 



5 . fcajjm^»ji>-» "•■-wi** 



a 



c& 



{ 49 ) 



ft 



Dunkeld, Tuesday, October 2. 

Mild and muggy, the mist hanging on the 
hills. Breakfasted with the children. Andrew 
Thomson attends to Arthur. Emilie * and Annie 
Macdonald f are with me here ; they help Louise, 
who, however, is very handy and can do almost 
everything for herself. 

At half-past eleven I drove out alone with the 
Duchess through the woods to Polney, and then 
along the road, and turned in at Willie Duff's 
Lodge, and down the whole way along the river 
under splendid trees which remind me of Windsor 
Park. How dearest Albert would have admired 
them ! We ended by a little walk, and looked into 
the old ruin. At twenty minutes to four we drove, 
the Duchess, Louise, and I — Janie Ely and Miss 
MacGregc following — to Crieff-g-dXo. on the road 

* Einilie Dittweiler, my first dresser, a native o^ Carlsruhe, 
i the Grand Duchy of Baden, who has been twenty-four years 
in ly service. 

My first wardrobe woman, who has been- twenty seven 
years in my service, daughter of Mitchel, the late blacksmith at 
Clachanturn, near Abergeldie, and widow of my footman, John 
Macdonald, who died in 1865 {^nde "Our Life in the High- 
lands"). 



-- ff 



*- 



-^ 



a- 



"*"& 



( 50 ) 

uf the Loch of the Lowes, where we got on ponies 
and rode for about an hour and a half through 
beautiful woods (saw a capercailzie, of which there 
are many here), but in a very thick mist (with very 
fine rain) which entirely destroyed all idea of view 
and prevented one's seeing anything but what was 
near. We came down to St. Cohne's, where we 
got off, but where again, like last year, we saw 
nothing of the beautiful view. Here we took tea 
out of the tea-set I had given the Duchess. She 
has furnished all her rooms here so prettily. 
How Albert would have liked all this ! 

Dinner as yesterday. Brown waited at dinner. 

IVeditesday, October 3. 

Just returned from a beautiful and successful 
journey of • venty miles (in ten hours and a half). 
I will try and begin an account of it. At nine the 
Duchess sent up to say she thought the mist would 
clear cff (it was much the same as yesterday), and 
to suggest whether we had not better try and go 
as far as her horses would take us, and return 
if it was bad, I agreed readily to this. Arthur 
left before our breakfast to go to the Pass of 



ca- 



ff 



.^'^SUliMi^^' 



[& 



-a 



51 

Killiecrankie with Lady Ely and General Grey. 
At a quarter past ten, well provided, we started, 
Louise, the Duchess, Miss MacGregor, and I (in 
our riding habits, as they take less room). The 
mist was very thick at first, and even accompanied 
by a little drizzling rain, so that we could see none 
of the distant hills and scenery. We crossed the 
Tay Bridge, drove through Little Dimkeld and 
along the Braan through Inver (where Niel Gow, 
the fiddler, lived), afterwards along the Tay oppo- 
site to St. Colmes. Four miles from Dunkeld, at 
Inchmagranachan Farm, the Highlands are sup- 
posed to begin, and this is one of the boundaries of 
Athole. We drove through some beautiful woods 
— oak and beech with brushwood, reminding one 
of Windsor Park — overtopped by rocks. A mile 
further Dalguise begins (the property of Mr. 
Stewart, now at the Cape of Good Hope), which 
is remarkable for two large orchards at either end; 
the trees laden with fruit in a way that reminded 
me of Germany. Kinnaird is next, the jointure 
house of the late Lady Glenlyon (mother to the 
late Duke). Just beyond this the Tujumel and 
the Tay join at the point of Logierait. 

We now entered Strath Tay, still the Duke of 



t 



B t 



-ff 



t& 



a 



( 



) 



A thole's property, on the side along which we 
drove. The Tay is a fine large river ; there are 
many small properties on the opposite side in the 
woods. The mist was now less thick and there 
was no rain, so that all the near country could be 
well seen. Post-horses from Fisher of Castletons 
brother, the innkeeper at Dunkcld, were waiting 
for us at Skitua7i, a little beyond Balnaguard 
(where we changed horses in 1842, and this was 
the very same road we took then). Now an un- 
sightly and noisy railroad runs along this beautiful 
glen, from Diuikeld as far as Aberfcldy. We 
passed, close to the road, Grandtully Castle, be- 
longing to Sir William Stewart, and rented by 
the Maharajah Duleep Singh. It is a curious 
old castle, much in the style of Abergeldie, with 
an avenue of trees leading up to it. 

Ai Aderfeidy, a pretty village opposite to Castle 
Mefizies, one or two people seemed to know us. 
We now came in among fine high-wooded hills, 
and here it was much clearer. W^e were in the 
Breadalbane property and approaching TaymoiUh. 
We passed, to the left, Bolfrax, where Lord 
Breadalbane's factor still lives, and to the right 
the principal lodge of Tayinout/i, which I so well 



tB- 



-w 



,"iliL"''''""9Ci Vj>!i*--«' 



Tf^^''.v^jdfep:^iitMi?S2r<s;:is^^ 



[& 



ft 



( 53 ) 

remember going in by ; but as we could not have 
driven through the grounds without asking per- 
mission and becoming known, which for various 
reasons we did not wish, we decided on not 
attempting it, and contented ourselves with getting 
out at a gate, close to a small fort, into which we 
were admitted by a woman from the gardener's 
house, close to which we stopped, and who had 
no idea who we were. * We got out and looked 
down from this height upon the house below, the 
mist having cleared away sufficiently to show us 
everything ; and here unknown, quite in private, 
I gazed, not without deep inward emotion, on 
the scene of our reception, twenty-four years ago, 
by dear Lord Breadalbane in a princely style, 
not to be equalled for grandeur and poetic effect ! 
Albert and I were only twenty- three, young and 
happy. How many are gone who were with us 
then ! I was very thankful to have seen it again. 
It seemed unaltered.* Everything was dripping 
from the mist. TaymoiUli is twenty-two miles 
from Dunkeld. 

We got into the carriage again ; the Duchess 

* The passage between the asterisks was quoted in a note 
in "Our Life in the Highlands," page 22. 



ci 



W 



.mi^:^^. 



fl- 




is I ! 



fb 



( 54 ) 

this time sitting near to me to prevent our appear- 
ance creating suspicion as to my being there. We 
drove on a short way through splendid woods 
with little waterfalls, and theii turned into the 
little village of Kenmore, where a tryst was being 
held, through the midst of which we had to drive ; 
but the people only recognised the Duchess. 
There was music going on, things being sold at 
booths, and on the small sloping green near the 
church cattle and ponies were collected — a most 
picturesque scene. Immediately after this we 
came upon the bridge, and Loch Tay, with its 
wooded banks, clear and yet misty, burst into view. 
This again reminded me of the past — of the 
row up the loch, which is sixteen miles long, in 
1842, in several boats, with pibrochs playing, and 
the boatmen singing wild Gaelic songs. The 
McDougall steered us then, and showed us the 
real Brooch of Lome taken from Robert Bruce. 

To the right we could see the grounds and fine 
park, looking rather like an English one. We 
stopped at Murray's Lodge, but, instead of chang- 
ing horses here, drove five miles up the loch, 
which was quite clear, and the stillness so great 
that the reflection on the lake's bosom was as 



& 



# 



I; 



a- 



■a 



( 55 ) 

strong as though it were a real landscape. Here 
we stopped, and got out and sat down on the shore 
of the loch, which is covered with fine quartz, of 
which we picked up some ; took our luncheon 
about half-past one, and then sketched. By this 
time the mist had given way to the sun, and the 
lake, with its richly wooded banks and changing 
foliage, looked beautiful. 

At half-past two we re-entered our carriage, 
the horses having been changed, and drove back 
up a steep hill, crossing the river Lyon and 
going into Glenlyon, a beautiful wild glen with 
high green hills and rocks and trees, which I 
remember quite well driving through in 1842 — 
then also on a misty day : the mist hung over, 
and even in some places below the tops of the 
hills. We passed several small places — Glenlyon 
House, the property of F. G. Campbell of Troup. 
To the left also Fortingal village — Sir Robert 
Menzies' — and a new place called /^^^^(^z'^;^ House. 
Small, picturesque, and very fair cottages were 
dotted about, and there were others in small 
clusters ; beautiful sycamores and other trees were 
to be seen near the riverside. We then passed the 
village of Coskieville, and turned by the hill-road — 



c& 



W 



fl- 



■Q3 



( 56 ) 

up a very steep hill with a burn flowing at the 
bottom, much wooded, reminding me of M'ln- 
roys Burn — passed the ruins of the old castle of 
the Stewarts of Garth, and then came on a dreaiy 
wild moor — passing below Schiehallion, one of 
the high hills — and at the summit of the road 
came to a small loch, called Ceannairdiche. 

Soon after this we turned down the hill again 
into woods, and came to Tummel Bridge, where 
we changed horses. Here were a few, but very- 
few people, who I think, from what Brown and 
Grant — who, as usua., were in attendance — said, 
recognised us, but behaved extremely well, and 
did not come near. This was at twenty minutes 
to four. We then turned as it were home- 
wards, but had to make a good long circuit, 
and drove alone: the side of Loch Tummel, hloh 
above the loch, through birch wood, which grows 
along the hills much the same as about Bi^k- 
halL It is only three miles long. Here it was 
again very clear and bright. At the end of the 
loch, on a highish point called after me " The 
Queens View'' — though I had not been there 
in 1844 — we got out and took tea. But this was 
a long and unsuccessful business ; the fire would 



cg- 



w 



'.rmnriA'. . >-t-i:;>*.i V^* 



'»««—-- 






a- 



■Qj 



( 57 ) 



not burn, and the kettle would not boil. At 
length Brown ran off to a * ottage and returned 
after some little while with a can full of hot water, 
but it was no longer boiling when it arrived, and 
the tea was not good. Then all had to be packed, 
and it made us very late. 

It was fast growing dark. We passed AUeine, 
Sir Robert Colquhoun's place, almost immediately 
after this, and then, at about half-past six, changed 
horses at the Bridge of Garry, near, or rather 
in the midst of, the Pass of Killiecrankie \ but 
fi'om the lateness of the hour and the dullness of 
the evening — for it was raining — we could see 
hardly anything. 

We went through Pitlochry, where we were 
recognised, but got quite quietly through, and 
reached Ballinliiig, where the Duchess's horses 
were put on, at a little before half-past seven. 
Here the lamps were lit, and the good people 
had put two lighted candles in each window ! 
They offered to bring " Athole brose," which 
we, however, declined. The people pressed 
round the carriage, and one man brought out 
a bull's-eye lantern which he turned upon me. 
But Brown, who kept quite close, put himself 



t 



9 



t& 



H 



( 58 ) 

between me and the glare. We ought to have 
been home in less than an hour from this time, 
but we had divers impediments — twice the plaid 
fell out and had to be picked up ; and then the 
lamp which I had given to the Duchess, like 
the one our outrider carries, was lit, and the 
coachman who rode outrider, and who was not 
accustomed to use it, did not hold it rightly, so 
that it went out twice, and had to be relit each 
time. So we only got home at a quarter to nine, 
and dined at twenty minutes past nine. But it 
was a very interesting day. We must have gone 
seventy-four miles. 

Thursday, October 4. 

Again heavy mist on the hills — most provoking 
— but without rain. The Duchess came to ask if 
I had any objection to the servants and gillies 
having a dance for two hours in the evening, to 
which I said, certainly not, and that I would go 
to it myself. At a quarter to twelve I rode 
in the grounds wkh the Duchess, going round 
Bishop's Hill and up to the King's Seat, a good 
height, among the most splendid trees — beeches, 
oaks, Scotch firs, spruce — really quite like Wind- 



-a 






t& 



•a 



a 



( 59 ) 

sor, and reminding me of those fine trees at the 
Belvidere, and a good deal of Reinhardtsbrunn 
(in the forest of Thuringm). But though less 
heavy than the two preceding mornings and quite 
dry, it was too hazy to see any distant hills, and 
Craig y Barns, that splendid rocky, richly wooded 
hill overtopping the whole, only peeped through 
the mist occasionally. From the Kings Seat we 
came down by the fort and upon the old " Oiier 
Hound Kennels" where we saw Mrs. Fisher, 
the mother of Agnes Brierly, who Vvas formerly 
schoolmistress zo the Lochnagar girls' school near 
Balmoral. We came in at a little after one, ex- 
pecting it would clear and become much finer, 
instead of which it got darker and thicker. 

At twenty minutes tc four drove with the 
Duchess, Miss MacGregor and Janie Ely follow- 
ing, to Loch Clunie by the Lock of the Lowes, and 
passed Laighiuood Farm. We drove round the 
loch ; saw and stopped to sketch the old castle 
of Chtnie, on a little island in the loch, the pro- 
perty of Lord Airlie. The scenery is tame, but 
very pretty with much wood, which is now in great 
beauty from the change of the leaf. The distance 
was enveloped in mist, and, as we drove back 



^ 



& 



[fl 






ft 



cg. 



( 60 ) 

towards Dunkcldhy tlie Ctipar Aii^us Road, it was 
quite like a thick IVijidsor fog, but perfectly dry. 

We stopped to take tea at -Neiuty/e, a farm 
of the Duchess, about two miles from Dtuikeld, 
where she has a small room, and which supplies 
turnips, etc., for the fine dairy cows. We got 
home by five minutes to seven. We passed 
through the town, where the people appeared 
at their doors cheering, and the children made 
a great noise. Dinner as before. At half-past 
ten we went dov/n (through the lower passages) to 
the servants' hall, in which the little dance took 
place. All the Duchess's servants, the wives of 
the men-servants, the keepers, the wood-forester 
(J. M'Gregor, who has an extensive charge over 
; 11 the woods on the A thole property), the gar- 
dener, and some five or six others who belong to 
my guard (eight people, belonging to the Duchess 
or to the town, who take their turn of watching 
two by two at night), besides all our servants, were 
there ; only Grant and two of the gillies did not 
appear, which vexed us ; but the gillie.s had not 
any proper shoes, they said, and therefore did not 
come. Janie Ely came; also Mr. Keir, and both 
were very active ; General Grey only looked in for 



J 



H 



cB- 



( 6. ) 

a moment, as he was suffering severely from cold. 
The fiddlers played in very good time, and the 
dancing was very animated, and went on without 
ceasing. Louise and Arthur both danced a good 
deal. Nothing but reels were danced. Even the 
Duchess's old F^rench maid, Clarice, danced ! 
She no longer acts as the Duchess's maid, but 
still lives near, in the adjacent so-called " brick 
buildings." 

Friday^ October 5. 

A brighter morning, though still hazy. The sun 
came out and the mist seemed dispersing. At 
twenty minutes to one started with the Duchess 
and Louise, the two ladies follov.'ing, for Loch 
Ordie. Several times during the drive the mist 
regained its mastery, but then again the sun 
struggled through, blue rky appeared, and the 
mist seemed to roll away and the hills and woods 
to break through. We drove by Craig Lush and 
Biitterdone Lochs, and then turned by the RiecJup 
Burn — up a very steep hill, finely wooded, passing 
by RiechiJ) and Racinove, two of the. Duke of 
Athole's shooting lodges, both let. After the last 
the road opens upon a wild moor (or " muir") for 




^ 



-ff 



[& 



ft 



I I 



'■;{, 



( 62 ) 

a short while, before entering the plantations and 
woods of Loch Ordie. Here, quite close to the 
lodge, on the grass, we took luncheon. The 
Duchess had had a hot venison pie brought, 
which was very acceptable. The sun had come 
out, and it was delightfully warm, with a blue sky 
and bright lights, and we sat sketching for some 
time. The good people have made a cairn 
amongst the trees wiiere we had tea last year. 

At four we drove away, and went by the road 
which leads towards Tullymel, and out of the 
woods by Hardy s Lodge, near a bridge. We 
stopped at a very pictiiresque place^ surrounded 
by woods and hills and little shiels, reminding 
me of the I^aucha Lrrund at Reinhardtsbrunn. 
Opposite to thic, on a place called Riitdh Rein- 
nichy or the " ferny shieling," a fire was kindled, 
and we took our tea. We then drove back by 
the upper St. Cclme^ Road, after which we 
drove through the town, up Bridge Street, and 
to the Market Cross, where a fountain is being 
erected in memory of the Duke. We went to see 
the dairy, and then came home on foot at a 
quarter to seven. Rested on the sofa, as my head 
was bad ; it got better, however, after dinner. 



^Br 



W 



.a«^:apia7 



li i inm iiMiii i ii w ii i 



\mirims immmi^a =t 



[fl- 



( 63 ) 



-a 



Saturday, October 6. 

A beautiful, bright, clear morning, most pro- 
vokingly so. After breakfast at half-past nine, we 
left, with real regret, the kind Duchess's hcspitable 
house, where all breathes peace and harmony, 
and where it was so quiet and snug. It was a 
real holiday for me in my present sad life. Louise 
and the Duchess went with me ; the others had 
gone on. Some of the principal people connected 
with the Duchess stood along the approach as we 
drove out. We went the usual way to Loch 
Or die, and past the lodge, on to the east end of 
the loch, the latter part of the road being very 
rough and deep. Here we all mounted our ponies 
at half-past eleven, and proceeded on our journey. 
A cloudless sky, not a breath of w'nd, and the 
heat intense and sickening. We went along a 
sort of cart-road or track. The burn oi Riechip 
runs out of this glen, through which we rode, and 
which really is very beautiful, under the shoulder 
of BenachatLis. The shooting tenant of Raemore, 
a Mr. Gordon, was out on the opposite side of 
the glen on a distant hill. We rode on through 



c& 



ff' 



t& 



ft 



( ^4 ) 

the woods ; the day was very hazy. After a 
few miles the eastern shore of Loc/i Oishte was 
reached, and we also skirted Little Loch Oishne 
for a few hundred yards. We followed from here 
the same road which we had come on that pouring 
afternoon in going to Dunkeld last year, till at a 
quarter to one vv^e reached the I'Cindrogan March. 
Here Mr. Keir, his son, and his keeper met us. 
Thence we rode by Gleri Derby, a wild open 
glen with moors. Descending into it, the road 
was soft but quite safe, having been purposely 
cut and put in order by Mr. Keir. We then as- 
cended a steepish hill, after passing a shepherd's 
hut. Here Arthur and General Grey rode off to 
Kindrogan, young Mr. Keir with tiiem, whence 
they were to drive on in Jidvance. As we de- 
scended, we came upon a splendid view of all the 
hills, and also of Glen Female, which is the way 
to Fealar. 

At half-past two we five ladies lunched on a 
heathery knoll, just above Mr. Keir's wood, and 
were indeed glad to do so, as we were tired 
by the great heat. As soon as luncheon , was 
over, we walked down through the wood a few 
hundred yards to where the carriage vas. Here 



% 



■ff 






t& 



■a 



( 65 ) 

we took leave, with much regret, of the dear 
kind Duchess and amiable Miss MacGregor, and 
got into the carriage at half-past three, stop- 
ping for a moment near Kindrogan to wish 
Mrs. Keir and her family good-bye. We drove 
on by KirkinUhael, and then some little way until 
we got into the road from Blairgowrie. The 
evening was quite splendid, the sky yellow and 
pink, and the distant hills coming out soft and 
blue, both behind and in front of us. We changed 
horses at the SpitaL and about two miles beyond 
it — at a place called Loch-na-Braig — we stopped, 
and while Grant ran back to get from a small 
house some hot water in the kettle, we three, with 
Brown's help, scrambled over a low stone wall by 
the roadside, and lit a fire and prepared our tea. 
The kettle soon returned, and the hot tea was 
very welcome and refreshing 

We then drove off again. The scenery was 
splendid till daylight gradually faded away, and 
then the hills looked grim and severe in the 
dusk. We cleared the Devil's Elboiv well, how- 
ever, before it was really dark, and then many 
stars came out, and we reached Balmoral in safety 
at half-past eight o'clock. 



^ 



-ff 



^ , 


f 




1 

i 
1 1 



[fi- 



( 66 ) 



Opening of the Aberdeen Waterworks. 



Tuesday, October i6, i866. 

At a quarter-past ten left for Ballater w'tli 
Lenchen and Louise ; Christian, Arthur, tL^ 
Duchess of Roxburghe, and Emily Cathcart in 
the second ; the gentlemen (General Grey,* etc.) 
having gone on in front. We went by the rail- 
way, which was useful on this occasion. We went 
about three-quarters of an hour by railway, and 
then stopped close to Tnckmarlo, Mr. Davidson's 
place, not far from Kincardine O Neil. Here mc 
got into carriages — Lenchen and Louise with me, 
— Christian, Arthur, and the two equerries, etc., in 

• He died on March 31, 1870. He had been with me as 
equerry from the time I came to the Throne. In 1846 he 
became Private Secretary to the Prince, and from December 
1 86 1 held the same position with me till his death. He was 
highly esteemed and valued by us both, and his loss grieved 
me deeply. 



a 



t& 



ff 



-ff 




1 



\ \ 




'^■^•^SSMW^a.. 



|i 




cl 



ft 



t 



( 67 ) 

the next. About twenty minutes' drive took us to 
Invercannie, where the ceremony took place. I 
got out and stood outside the tent while the Lord 
Provost (whom I Vx{\^\X.^^ -aX Aberdee7i in 1863) 
read the address. Then I had to read my answer, 
which made me very nervous ; brt I got through 
it well, though It was the first time I had read any- 
thing since my darling Husband was taken from 
me. Then came the turning of the cock, and it 
was very pretty to see the water rushing up. 

These waterworks are on a most extensive scale, 
and are estimated to convey to the city 6,000,000 
gallons of water daily. I he water is from the 
river Dee^ from which it is diverted at Cairnton, 
about four miles above Banchory. The prin- 
cipal features of the works are a tunnel 760 
yards in length, which is cut through the hill of 
Cairnton, composed of solid rock of a very hard 
nature. At the end of tlie tunnel is the Inver- 
camiie Reservoir, where the ceremony took place. 
This reservoir is estimated to contain 15,000,000 
gallons of water. It is just two years and a half 
since the first turf of the undertaking was cut, 
and the cost of the works is 1 30,000/. The cere- 
mony was over in less than a quarter of an hour. 



-ff 



[& 



( ^8 ) 

and we returned as we came, stopping a moment 
at the door of Mr. Davidson's house, where his 
daujT^hter presented me with a nosegay. The day 
was fine and mild. The people were very kind, 
and cheered a good deal. 

We got back at twenty minutes past two. 



-a 



Cfe- 



~ff 



tfl- 



( 69 ) 



Halloween, 
October 31, 1866-1867. 



While we were at Mrs. Grant's we saw the 
commencement of the keeping of Halloween, 
All the children came out with burning torches, 
shouting and jumping. The Protestants generally 
keep Halloween on the old day, November 1 2, 
and the Catholics on this day ; but liearing I had 
wished to see it two years ago, th y all decided 
to keep it to-day. When we drove home we saw 
all tne gillies coming along with burning torches, 
and torches and bonfires appeared also on the 
opposite side of the water. We went upstairs to 
look at it from the windows, from whence it had 
a very pretty effect. 

On the same day in the following year, viz., 
Thursday, October 31, 1867, we had an opportu- 



a 



^- 



--ff 



' -■■s. 



"■■/■; 






% 







IMAGE EVALUATION 
TEST TARGET (MT-3) 




% 




C< 



o 




u- 




4- 



t/. 



x5> 



fA 



1.0 



I.I 



1^ 112.2 






11.25 ■ 1.4 



6" 



2.0 



1.6 







Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 



33 WEST MAIN STREET 

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 

(716) 872-4503 




IBBH 



'^<^ 






C/u 



r 




w 



i 



c& 



. 



a 



( 70 ) 

nity of again seeing the celebration of Halloween, 
and even of taking part in it. We had been 
out driving, but we hurried back to be in time 
for the celebration. Close to Donald Stewart's 
house we were met by two gillies bearing 
torches. Louise got out and took one, walking 
by the side of the carriage, and looking like 
one of the witches in " Macbeth." As we ap- 
proached Balmoral, the keepers and their wives 
and children, the gillies and other people met us, 
all with torches ; Brown also carrying one. We 
got out at the house, where Leopold joined us, 
and a torch was given to him. We walked round 
the whole house, preceded by Ross playing the 
pipes, going down the steps of the terrace. 
Louise and Leopold went first, then came Janie 
Ely and I, followed by every one carrying 
torches, which had a very pretty effect. After 
this a bonfire was made of all the torches, close 
to the house, and they danced reels whilst Ross 
played the pipes. 



^ 



-ff 



M^mmmff^^sSmmifmmw^:^ 



[& 



( 71 ) 



Visit to 

Floors and the Scotch Border Country, 

August 20, 1867. 



Tuesday, August 20, 1867. 

At ten o'clock I left Windsor (those night 
departures are ah/ays sad) with Louise, Leopold, 
and Baby (Beatrice); Lenchen, Christian, and 
their little baby boy meeting us at the station. 
Jane Churchill, Harriet Phipps, the two gover- 
nesses, Sir Thomas Biddulph, Lord Charles Fitz- 
Roy, Colonel G. Gordon, Mr. Duckworth, and 
Dr. Jenner were in attendance. I had been 
much annoyed to hear just before dinner that our 
saloon carriage could not go under some tunnel 
or arch beyond Carlisle, and that I must get out 
and change carriages there. 



a 



^- 



— 51 



I 



[fl 



• ! 



i 



■a 



( 72 ) 



Wednesday, August 21. 

The railway carriage swung a good deal, and 
it was very hot, so that I did not get much sleep. 
At half-past seven I was woke up to dress and 
hurry out at Carlisle, which we did at a quarter 
to eight. Here in the station we had some break- 
fast, and waited an hour till our carriage was 
taken off and another put on (which they have 
since found out was quite unnecessary !) The 
morning, which had been gloomy, cleared and 
became very fine, and we went on along such a 
pretty line through a very pretty country, through 
Eskdale and past Netherby, as far as Ridditigs, 
and then leaving the Esk entered Liddesdale, the 
railway running along the Liddel Water to Rtc- 
carton station, where we stopped for a moment. 
We next came along the Slitrig Water to Hawick, 
where we went slowly, which the people had 
begged us to do, and where were great crowds. 
Here we entered Tevtotdale and descended it, 
entering the valley of the Tweed at St. Boswell's. 
Between St, BoswcWs and Kelso at Roxburgh 
station, we crossed the Teviot again. We passed 



t- 



# 



(fl 



( 73 ) 

close under the Eildo7i Hills, three high points 
rising from the background. The country is 
extremely picturesque, valleys with fine trees 
and streams, intermingled with great cultivation. 
Only after half-past eleven did we reach Kelso 
station, which was very prettily decorated, and 
where were standing the Duke and Duchess of 
Roxburghe, Lord Bowmont, the Duke of Buc- 
cleuch, and Lord C. Ker, as well as General 
Hamilton, commanding the forces in Scotland. 
We gf)t out at once. I embraced the dear Duchess, 
andsl.Dok hands with the two Dukes, and then 
at once entered the carriage (mine) with Lenchen, 
Louise, and the Duchess ; Beatrice, Leopold, and 
Christian going in the second, and the others 
following in other carriages. 

The morning beautiful and very mild. '^Ve 
drove through the small suburb of Maxwell 
Heugh, down into the town of Kelso, and over 
the bridge which commands a beautiful view of 
the broad stream of the Tweed and of the Park of 
Floors, with the fine house itself. Everywhere 
decorations, and great and most enthusiastic 
crowds. The little town of Kelso is very pic- 
turesque, and there were triumphal arches, and 



4- 




tfi- 



a 



( 74 ) 

no end of pretty mottoes, and every hcuse was 
decorated with flowers and flags. Fifty ladies 
dressed in white strewed flowers as we passed. 
Volunteers were out and bands playing. A t the 
Market Place the carriage stopped ; an address 
was presented, not read ; and a little girl was held 
up to give me an enormous bouquet. Immense 
and most enthusiastic cheering-. We then drove 
on, amidst continued crowds and hearty cheers, 
up to the very park gates, where the old Sheriff, 
eighty-five years old, was presented. The park 
is remarkably fine, with the approach under 
splendid beech, sycamore, and oak trees, i i:? 
house very handsome, built originally by Sir John 
Vanbrugh in 1718, but much improved by the 
present Duke. You drive under a large porch, 
and then go up a flight of steps to the hall. The 
Duke's band was stationed outside. Mr. and 
Lady Charlotte Rus.iell, Mr. Suttie, and Lady 
Charles Ker were in the hall. The Duchess took 
us into the library, where the Duke of Buccleuch 
joined us, and, after waiting a little while, we had 
breakfast (ourselves alone) in the really splendid, 
dining-room adjoining, at ten minutes past twelve. 
This over, the Duchess showed us to our rooms 



t& 



■ff 



c& 



a 



( -5 ) 

upstairs. I had three that were very comfortable, 
opening one into the other : a sitting-room, dress- 
ing-room, and the largest of the three, the bed- 
room, simple, with pretty chintz, but very elegant, 
nice and comfortable. The children were close 
at hand. But the feeling of loneliness when I 
saw no room for my darling, and felt I was 
indeed alone and a widow, overcame me very 
sadly ! It was the first time I had gone in this 
way on a visit (like as in former times), and I 
thought so much of all dearest Albert would have 
done and said, and how he would have wandered 
about everywhere, admired everything, looked at 
everything — and now ! Oh ! must it ever, ever 
be so .'* 

At half-past two lunched (as at home) in the 
fine dining-room. A lovely day. The view from 
the windows beautiful. The distant Cheviot range 
with a great deal of wood, Kelso embosomed in 
rich woods, with the bridge, and the Tweed flowing 
beneath natural grass terraces which go down to 
it. Very fine. It reminded me a little of the 
view from the Phoenix Park near Dublin. 

At half-past five walked out with Lenchen and 
the kind Duchess to a spot where I planted a 



43- 



-ff 



c& 



*"& 



Nm 



( 76 ) 

tree,* and then we walked on to the flower-garden, 
where there are a number of very fine hot-houses, 
and took tea in a pretty httle room adjoining them, 
which is entirely tiled. After this we took a pleasant 
drive in the fine park which is full of splendid tim- 
ber, along the Tweed, and below the ruins of the 
celebrated old Castle of Roxburgh, of which there 
is very little remaining. It is on a high eminence ; 
the Tweed and Teviot are on either side of it, so 
that the position is remarkably strong. It stood 
many a siege, and was frequendy taken by the 
English and retaken by the Scotch. Scotch and 
even English kings, amongst them Edward III., 
held their Court there. 

We came home at eight. The Duke and 
Duchess dined with us, and after dinner we 
watched the illuminations and many bonfires from 
the library, and afterwards went for a moment 
into the drawing-room to see the ladies and gentle- 
men, after which I went up to my room, where I 
sat and rested, feeling tired and only able to read 
the newspapers. 

* The gardener, Hector Rose, became head gardener at 
Windsor in the spring of 1868, and died, alas! June 5, 1872, 
after having filled his situation admirably. 



i- 



9 



ifl- 



— a 



( 77 ) 



Thursday, Ai^s^ust 22. 

A fine morning, though rather hazy. The night 
and moonlight had been beautiful. Breakfasted 
with our family in the breakfast-room. At twenty 
minutes to eleven went and sat out under some 
trees on the lawn near the house writing, where I 
was quite quiet and undisturbed, and remained 
till half-past twelve, restmg reading, etc. Imme- 
diately after luncheon started in two carriages, the 
Duchess and our two daughters with me ; Chris- 
tian, the Duke, Lady Charlotte Russell, and Lord 
Charles Fitz-Roy in the second carriage (with post- 
horses). We had the Duke's horses as far as 
Ravcnsivood. We drove through Kelso, which 
was full of people, crossed the Tweed and Tevict 
(where the waters join), and passed below the old 
Castle 0/ Roxburgh. The country is very pretty, 
hilly, wooded, and cultivated. Not long after we 
started, the second carriage disappeared, an.d we 
waited for it. It seems that, at the first hill they 
came to, the wheelers would not hold up. So 
we stopped (and this delayed us some time), the 
leaders replaced the wheelers, and they came on 



I'X 



-ff 



[& 



■83 



( 78 ) 

with a pair. Then we drove up to S^. Dosivelts 
Green, with the three fine Eildon hills before us — 
which are said to have been divided by Michael 
Scott, the wizard — seeing Mertoun, my excellent 
Lord Polwarth's place, on the other side of the 
road. Alas ! he died only last Friday from a 
second stroke, the first of wnich seized him in 
February ; and now, when he had intended to 
be at the head of the volunteers who received me 
at Kelso, he is lying dead at his house which 
we passed so near ! It lies low, and quite in 
among the trees. I lament him deeply and sin- 
cerely, having liked him very much, as did my 
dearest Albert also, ever since we knew him in 
1858. 

. We changed horses at Ravenswood, or old Mel- 
rose (where I had my own), having caught a 
glimpse of where Dryhtrgh Abbey is, though the 
railway almost hides it. The Duke of Buccleuch 
met us there, and rode the whole way. Every- 
where, wherever there were dwellings, there was 
the kindest welcome, and triumphal arches were 
erected. We went by the side of the Eildon 
Hills, past an immense railway viaduct, and 
nothing could be prettier than the road. The 






"B- 



W 



a 



a 



( 79 ) 

position of Melrose is most picturesque, sur- 
rounded by woods and hills. The little village, cr 
rather town, of Newstead, which we passed through 
just before coming to Melrose, is very narrow and 
steep. We drove straight up to the Abbey through 
the grounds of the Duke of Buccleuch's agent, and 
got out and walked about the ruins, which are 
indeed very fine, and some of the architecture 
and carving in beautiful preservation. David I., 
who is described as a " sair Saint," originally 
built it, but the Abbey, the ruins of which are 
now standing, was built in the fifteenth century. 
We saw where, under the high altar, Robert 
Bruce's heart is supposed to be buried ; also the 
tomb of Alexander II., and of the celebrated 
wizard, Michael Scott. Reference is made to the 
former in some lines of Sir Walter Scott's in 
the "Lay of the Last Minstrel," which describes 
this Border country : — 

They sat them down on a marble stone j 
A Scottish monarch slept below. 

And then when Deloraine takes the book from the 
dead wizard's hand, it says — 

He thought, as he took it, the dead man frowned. , 



C^__. 



-ff 



c& 



-a 



:. ( 80 ) 

Most truly does Walter Scott say — 

> If thou wouldst view fair Melrose ariglil, 

Go visit it by the pale moonlight. 

It looks very ghostlike, and reminds rne a little 
of Hoiyrood Chapel We walked in the church- 
yard to look at the exterior of the Abbey, and 
then re-entered our carriages and drove through 
the densely crowded streets. Great enthusiasm 
and hearty affectionate loyalty Many decora- 
tions. A number of people from Galashiels, 
and even from the North of England, had come 
into the town and swelled the crowd . many 
also had spread themselves along the outskirts. 
We took the other side of the valley returnin^^, 
and saw Galashiels, very prettily situated, a flou- 
rishing town famous for its tweeds and shawls ; 
the men are called the " braw lads of Gala 
Walerr 

Another twenty minutes or half-hour brought 
us to Abbolsfordy the well-known residence of Sir 
Walter Scott. It lies low and looks rather gloomy. 
Mr. Hope Scott and Lady Victoria * (my god- 
daughter and sister to the present Duke of 

* She died in 1870. 



IB-" 



■ff 



-a 



O- 



of 



-W 






Norfolk) with their children, the young Duke 
of Norfolk, antl some other relations, received 
us. Mr. Hope Scott married first Miss Lock- 
hart, the last surviving grandchild of Sir Walter 
Scott, and she died leaving only one daughter, a 
pretty girl of eleven, to whom this place will go, 
and who is the only surviving descendant of Sir 
Walter. They showed us tae part of the house 
in which Sir Walter lived, and all his rooms — his 
drawing-room with the same furniture and carpel, 
the library where we saw his MS. of " Tvanhoe," 
and several others of his novels and poems in a 
beautiful handwriting with hardly any erasures, 
and other relics which Sir Walter had himself 
collected. Then his study, a small dark room, 
with a litde turret in which is a bust in bronze, 
done from a cast taken after death, of Sir Walter. 
In the study we saw his journal, in which Mr. 
Hope Scott asked me to write my name (which I 
felt it to be a presumption in me to do), as also 
the others. 

We went through some passages into two or 
three rooms where were collected fine specimens 
of Old armour, etc., and where in a glass case are 
Sir Walter's last clothes. We ended by going into 



a 



m- 



-# 






'1 It* 



a 



^ 



( 82 ) 

the dining-room, in which Sir Walter Scott died 
where we took tea. . . . 

We left at twenty minutes to seven — very late. 
It rained a little, but soon ceased. We recrossed 
the Tweed, and went by Gattonside to Leaderfoot 
Bridge. Here we were met by the Berwickshire 
Volunteers, commanded by Lord Binning (Lord 
Haddington's son), who as Deputy Lieutenant 
rode a long way with us. Here was a steep hill, 
and the road surrounded by trees. We passed 
soon after through Gladswood, the property of 
Mr. Meiklam, at whose house-door we stopped, 
and he and Mrs. Meiklam were presented, and 
their daughter gave me a noregay. Just after 
this we entered Berwickshire. Changing horses 
and leaving this place, going over Gateheugh, 
we came upon a splendid view, overlooking a 
great extent of country, with a glen deep below 
the road, riciily wooded, the river at the bottom, 
and hills in the distance ; but unfortunately the 
•'gloaming"* was already commencing — at least, 
the sun was gone down, and the evening was 
grey and dull, though very mild. We passed 
Bemersyde, which is eventually to belong to 

• The Scotch word for " twiligh* " 



-B3 



— ff 



li: 



-a 



a- 



■"-a 



( 83 ) 

Alfred's Equerry, Mr. Haig,* and through the 
village of Merhim, behind the park ; and it was 
striking to see the good feeling shown by the 
people, who neither displayed any decorations 
nor cheered, though they were out and bowed, 
as their excellent master, Lord Polwarth, was 
lying- dead in his house. 

It was nearly dark by this time, but we got 
well and safely home by ten minutes to nine. 
The Duke of Buccleuch rode with us some way 
beyond Gladswood. We did not come through 
^^e:lso on our way back. In passing Mertoun we 
left the old towei of Smailholm to the left, the 
scene of the "Eve of St. John." We only sat 
down to dinner at half-past nine, and I own I was 
very tired. The Duke of Buccleuch was only 
able to come when dinner was half over. Besides 
him the Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe, Lord 
Bowmont, Lady Charles Ker, and Mr. Suttie 
made the party at dinner. Lady Susan was 
prevented by indisposition from being there. 
Nobody could be kinder, or more discreet, or 
more anxious that I should be undisturbed when 
at home, than the Duke and Duchess. I only 

* He succeeded to the property in 1878. 



i ! 



■B- 



C 9 



^ 



!& 



a 



1 


! 


j 

i 

1 



^ 



84 ) 



stopped a few minutes downstairs after dinner, 
and then went up to my room, but it was then 
nearly eleven. The others went into the drawing- 
room to meet some of the neighbours. 



Friday, August 23. 

A dull morning, very close, with a little inclina- 
tion to rain, though only for a short time. Break- 
fast as yesterday. At twenty minutes to eleven 
we started : I with our daughters and the Duchess ; 
Christian with dear Beatrice, the Duke of Marl- 
borough (the Minister in attendance), and Lady 
Susan Melville, in the second carriage ; and the 
Duke of Roxburghe, Lord Charles Pltz-Roy, Sir 
Thomas Biddulph, in the third, with Colonel 
Gordon and Dr. Jenner on the box.* We pro- 
ceeded through Kelso, which was very full, and 
the people most loyal ; by the village of Heilon, 
prettily decorated with an arch (two young girls 
dressed in white threw nosegays), and up the 
rivers Teviot and Jed, which flow through charm- 
ing valleys. The town of Jedburgh is very prettily 

* Brown and the sergeant footman, Collins, were (as usual) 
on the seat behind my carriage. 



^-. 



-ff 



\ 



M i 



a- 



a 



{ «5 ) 

situated, and is about the same size as Kelso, 
only without its large shops. It is, however, the 
capital of the county. It was very crowded, and 
very prettily decorated. The town is full of histo- 
rical recollections. Kinof Malcolm IV. died there; 
William the Lion and Alexander II. resided 
there; Alexander III. married his second wife, 
Joletta, daughter of the Comte de Dreux, there ; 
and Queen Mary was the last sovereign who 
came to administer severe justice. The Duchess 
pointed out to me a house up a side street in the 
town where Queen Mary had lived and been ill 
with fever. In the square an address was pre- 
sented, just as at Kelso, and then we went on 
down a steep hill, having a very good view of 
the old Abbey, as curious in its way as Melrose, 
and also founded by David I. There is a very 
fine ruined abbey in Kelso also. 

There were four pretty triumphal arches ; one 
with two very well chosen inscriptions, viz., on one 
side " Freedom makes all men to have lyking," 
and on the other side " The love of a'l thy people 
comfort thee." 

We went on through a beuutiful wooded valley 
up the Jed, in the bank of which, in the red stone, 



f& 



^ 



£& 



( *56 ) 



-a 



are caves in which the Covenanters were hid. 
We passed Lord Cianstoun's place, Craiiing, and 
then turned, and close before the town we turned 
into yed Forest — up an interminable hill, which was 
very trying lo the horses and the postilions — and 
returned through the grounds ^i Hartrigge, the late 
Lord Campbell's, now occupied by a Mr. Gordon. 

We then returned by the same road we came, 
passing Kirkbank, belonging to the Duke of Buc- 
cleuch, where his late brother, Lord John Scott, 
used to live. Here the horses were watered. 
We stopped for a few minutes, and the Duke of 
Buccleuch, who had ridden with us the greater 
part of the way, into. Jedburgh and back to this 
place, took leave. 

We only got home near three o'clock. We 
lunched at once, and then I rested. Only at half- 
past six did I go out with Lenchen and the good 
Duchess, and walked with them to the flower- 
garden, where, as it began to rain, we took tea 
in the small room there. Lenchen walked back 
with the Duchess, who returned to me, and I 
sat out a little while with her, and then walked 
back to the house. It was a very oppressive 



evenmg. 



li i 



t& 



^ 



^fb 



a 



"^^"B] 



-ff 



^ 



( S; ) 

At half-past eight we dined. The Duke and 
Duchess, Mr. and Lady Charlotte Russell, and 
Lord Charles Ker dined. Went upstairs and 
wrote. At ten minutes to eleven we left Floors, 
where I had been most kindly received, and had 
been very comfortable and enjoyed all I saw, and 
felt much all the kindness of high and low. The 
carriages were open, and the night very warm 
and starlight. There were lamps all along the 
drive in the Park; the bridge was illuminated, 
and so was the whole town, through which we 
went at a foot's pace. It was densely crowded, 
the square especially, and the people very enthusi- 
astic. The dear Duchess went with us to the 
station, whither the Duke and his sons had pre- 
ceded us with the others. It was a very pretty 
sight. The Free Kirk, a pretty building, was lit 
up with red light, which almost gave it the 
appearance of being on fire. We took leave of 
the dear Duchess and the Duke, got into our 
railway carriage, and started at once. 



W 



I s 





fi 



ft 



( 88 ) 



Saturday y August 24. 

We passed through Edinhirgh. At eight a.m- 
we were at Ballater. Some coffee and tea were 
handed in to us before we left the train and got 
into our carriages. 

A fine and very mild morning, the heather 
hardly out, but all very green ; and at ten minutes 
to nine we were at our dear Balmoral. 



^ 



--4? 



a 



cB— 



-a 



( 89 ) 



Visit to Glenfiddicii. 



& 



Tuesday, September 2 df, 1867. 

A bright morning, but a fearful gale blowing. 
The maids, Emihe and Annie and Lady Churchill's 
maid, with Ross and the luggage, started at a 
little past seven. 

Breakfasted at a quarter past nine ; and at ten, 
taking leave of Lenchen, darling Beatrice, and the 
boys, and Christian, started with Louise and Jane 
Churchill— Brown, as usual, on the box. Sir 
Thomas Biddulph had gone on at eight. We 
drove up by Alt Craichie on to Gairnshiel, and 
anything like the wind I cannot describe. It 
blew through everything. Just beyond Gairnshiel 
we took another change of my own horses, which 
took us up that very steep hill called Gtasc/ioiL 
Here we met the luggage with Blake,* which had 

* A footman, now one of the Pages of the Presence. 



\' ll 



ff 



r 



fb 



( 90 ) 



stuck completely, but wa . going on with the help 
of four cart or farm hors '.s, and then we went on 
by Tornahoisk and Cock Brigg, where we crossed 
the Don. At the small inn at the foot of the hill, 
called Bridge End, we found the maids' carriage 
halting. They were waiting for the luggage, but 
we sent them on. Our postilions next took a 
wrong road, and we had to get out to enable them 
to turn. Then came a very steep hill, the be- 
ginning of very wild and really grand scenery. 
Louise and Jane Churchill walked up to the top 
of this hill, and then we went down another very 
steep one, seeing a fearfully long ascent before us. 
We changed horses, and took a pair of post-horses 
here. Steep green hills with a deep ravine on 
our left as we went up, and then down again, this 
fearful hill — surely three miles in length — called 
Lecht. At the bottom we entered a glen, or rather 
pass, very wild, and the road extremely bad, with 
rapid turnings. Near this there are iron mines 
belonging to the Duke of Richmond. Here 
we met a drove of very fine Highland cattle 
grazing. Turning out of this glen we came into 
much more cultivated land with farms and trees, 
skirted by hills in the distance — all very clear, as 



cq-,. 



ff 



ill ! 



-a 



c& 



-a 



ff 



( 91 ) 

the views had been all along. By half-past one 
we came close by Toinintoul, which lies very 
prettily amongst the trees, hills, and fields ; then 
leavmg it to onr left, we went on about a 
mile and a half beyond the town ; and here by 
the roadside, on some grass below a heathery 
bank, at about a quarter-past two, we took our 
luncheon, and walked a little. The Duke of 
Richmond's keeper, Lindsay by name, joined us 
here and rode before us. We changed horses 
(again a pair) and drove on, entering Glen Livet 
through the small village of Knockandhu — Blair- 
findy Castle on the left, just behind the celebrated 
Gknlivet Distillery. We drove on six miles ; 
pretty country all along, distant high hills and 
richly cultivated land, with houses and cottages 
dotted about. At Tomnavoulin, a farm, not far 
from a bridge, we met Sir Thomas Biddulph 
(who had driven on in a dogcart) and our ponies. 
Though the wind had gone down a good deal, 
there was quite enough to make it disagreeable 
and fatiguing, and so we decided to drive, and 
Sir Thomas said he would ride across with the 
poniei5 and meet the Duke, while his head keeper 
was to come on the box with Brown and show us 



^ 



— EP 



I 



J 



»t 



a- 



-a 



( 92 ) 



tlic v/ay (Grant did not go with us this time). 
We drove on for an hour and more, having 
entered G/cn Rinnes shortly after TomnavouliKy 
with the hills of Ben Rinnes on the left. There 
were fine large fields of turnips, pretty hills and 
dales, with wood, and distant higli hills, but 
nothing grand. The day became duller, and the 
mist hung over the hills ; and just as we sat down 
by the roadside on a heathery bank, where there 
is a very pretty view of Glenlivct, to take our 
tea, it began to rain, and continued doing so for 
the remainder of the evening. Lindsay, the head 
keeper, fetched a ketile with boiling water from a 
neighbouring farmhouse. About two miles beyond 
this we came through Dnfftoivn — a small place 
with a long steep street, very like Grantown — 
and then turned abruptly to the right past^w^//z«- 
donn, leaving a pretty glen to the left. Three 
miles more brought us to a lodge and gate, which 
was the entrance of Glenjiddich. Here you go 
quite into the hills. The glen is very narrow, 
with the Fiddich flowing below, green hills rising 
on either side with birch trees growing on them, 
much like at Inchrory, only narrower. We saw deer 
on the tops of the hills close by. The carriage- 



f& 



^ 



-a 



-w 



a- 



r& 



( 93 ) 



-a 



road — a very good one — winds along for nearly 
three miles, when you come suddenly upon the 
lodge, the position of which reminds me very 
much of Corn Davon,'* only that the glen is 
narrower and the hills just round it steeper. It 
is a long shooting lodge, covering a good deal of 
ground, but only one story high. We reached it 
at half-past six, and it was nearly dark. Sir 
Thomas received us, but he had missed the 
Duke ! A message had, however, at once been 
sent after him. On entering the house there is 
one long, low passage, at the end of which, with 
three windows, taking in the whole of each siae 
and looking three different ways, is the drawing- 
room, where tea was prepared We went along 
the passage to our rooms, which were all in a row. 
Another long passage, a little beyond the hall 
door, went the other way at right angles with the 
first, and along that were offices and servants' 
bedrooms. Next to the drawing-room came the 
dining-room, then Sir Thomas Biddulph's room, 
then the Duke's, then Brown's and Ross's (in 
one),. then Louise's, then mine, then Emilie's and 
Annie's (in one), then, a little further back, Jane 

* Near Balmoral, not far from Loch Bulig. 



I 




w 



I 



I i 

i i 



Wm^ 



[fl 



-tb 



( 94 ) 

Churchill's and her maid's — all very comfortably 
and conveniently together. But though our maids 
had ai rived, not a bit of luggage. We waited 
and waited till dinner-time, but nothing came. 
So we ladies (for Sir Thomas had wisely brought 
some things with him) had to go to dinner in our 
riding-skirts, and just as we were. I, having no 
cap, had to put on a black lace veil of Emilie's, 
which she arranged as a coiffure. I had been 
writing and resting before dinner. The Duke 
(who remained at Gle^ifiddiclt) and Sir Thomas 
dined with us ladies. 

None of the maids or servants had any change 
of clothing. Dinner over, I went with Louise 
and Jane to the drawing-room, which was given 
me as my sitting-room, and Jane read. While 
at dinner at half-past nine, Ross told us that 
Blake> the footman, had arrived with some of the 
smaller things, but none of the most necessary 
- -no clothes, etc. The break with the luggage 
had finally broken down at TomintotU\ from 
thence Blake had gone with a cart to Dufftown, 
where he had got a small break, and brought the 
light things on, but the heavier luggage was 
coming in a cart, and they hoped would be here 



ca- 



& 



-ff 



cfl"^ 



^ 



( 95 ) 



by twelve o'clodc. At first it seemed as if no 
horses were to be had, and it was only with the 
greatest difficulty that some were at labt ob- 
tained. Louise and Jane Churchill left mc at 
near eleven o'clock. 

I sat up writing and waiting for this luggage. 
A man was sent out on a pony vvith a lantern in 
search of it, and I remained writing till a quarter- 
past twelve, when, feeling very tired, I lay down 
on the sofa, and Brown (who was indefatigable) 
went out himself to look for it. At one, he came 
back, saying nothing was to be seen or heard 
of this luckless luggage, and urged my going to 
bed. My maids had unfortunately not thought 
of bringing anything with them, and I disliked 
the idea of going to bed without any of the neces- 
sary toilette. However, some arrangements were 
made which were very uncomfortable ; and after 
two I got into bed, but had very little sleep at 
first ; finally fatigue got the better of discomfort, 
and after three I fell asleep. 



ft 



^3 



ti 



■'•rT«!-'iMk>^a(k!ssaiiikiM^aSKmsi^sm-m 



t 



f 



mmmmmm 



rmmmmmmm 



m^m 



c& 



-a 



m\ 



( 96 ) 



Wednesday, September 25. 

Slept soundly till half-past seven, and heard 
that the luggage had only arrived at half-past 
four in the morning. Breakfasted with Louise, 
who made my coffee beautifully with Brown, who 
waited at breakfast, Ross coming in and out with 
what had to be carried. It rained soon after I got 
up, and continued raining till near eleven. I read 
and wrote, etc. At half-past eleven, it having 
cleared, I rode up the small narrow glen, down 
which flows a ** burnie " (called the Garden Burn), 
the banks covered with fern and juniper, heather 
and birch, etc., past the kitchen-garden. Louise 
'i/alked with me. Went up nearly to the top and 
walked down it again, then on to the stables, 
which are at a small distance from the house, 
where I saw an old underkeeper, P. Stewart by 
name, seventy-four years old, with a Peninsular 
and Waterloo medal, who had been in the 92nd 
Highlanders, and was a great favourite of the 
late Duke's. Home by twenty minutes to one. 
The day became very fine and warm. Lunched 
in my own room with Louise at the same small 



tfl-^ 



& 



-.--MCi».Miy>id.w-< 



-a 



fi- 



ft 



( 97 ) 

table at which we had brer.kfasted, Ross and the 
Duke's piper playing outside the window. 

After luncheon rode (on Sultan, as this morn- 
ing) with Louise and Jane Churchill, the Duke 
walking (and Jane also part of the way), down to 
the end of Gknfiddich ; turning then to the left 
for Bridgekaug/t (a ford), and going on round the 
hill of Ben Main. We first went along the road 
and then on *he heather " squinting " the hill — 
hard and good ground, but disagreeable from the 
heather being so deep that you did not see where 
you were going — the Duke's forester leading the 
way, and so fast that Brown led me on at his full 
speed, and we distanced the others entirely. At 
five we got to the edge of a small ravine, from 
whence we had a fine view of the old ruined castle 
of Achendowji, which formerly belonged to the old 
Lords Huntly. Here we took our tea, and then 
rode home by another and a shorter way — not a 
bad road, but on the steeper side of the hill, and 
quite on the slant, which is not agreeable. We came 
down at the ford, and rode back as we went ojt, 
getting home at seven. A very fine evening. It 
was very nearly dark when we reached home, I was 
very tired ; I am no longer equal to much fatigue. 



-ff 



^a-^ 



wm 




p 

I' ' 




^ 



( 9S ) 



-^ 



Thivsday, September 26. 

Slept very well arid was much rested. At half- 
past twelve I started with Louise on ponies (I on 
Sultan), and Jane Churchill, the Duke of Rich- 
mond, and Sir Thomas walking, rode past the 
stables on a good road, and then turned to the 
right and went up Glenjiddich for about four 
miles. The scenery is not grand, but pretty ; an 
open valley with green and not very high hills, 
some birches, and a great deal of fern and juni- 
per. After about three rniles the glen narrows 
and is extremely pretty ; a narrow steep path 
overhanging a burn leads to a cave, which the 
Duke said went a long way under the hill. It 
is called the Elf House. There is a small space 
of level ground, and a sort of seat arranged with 
stones, on which Louise and I sat ; and here 
we all lunched, and then tried to sketch. But I 
could make nothing of the cave, and therefore 
scrambled up part of the hill with great trouble, 
and tried again but equally unsuccessfully, and 
had to be helped down, as I. had been helped up, 
by Brown. We were here nearly an hour, and 



-^ 



--ft 



■s^ 



a- 



■"Si 



( 59 ) 

then, after walking clown the steep path, we got 
on our ponies and rode up to the left, another 
very steep and narrow path, for a short while on 
the brink of a steep high bank with the Fiddich 
below. We emerged from this ravme and came 
upon moors in the hills (the whole of this is " the 
forest "), and rode on a mile and a half till near the 
head of the Liveton the right of the Soivie, a high, 
bare, heathery, mossy hill ; Cairn-ta-Brtiar to the 
left. Here we had a fine view of Ben Avcn 
and Ben-na-Botird, and this was the very way we 
should have ridden from Tomnavoiuitt. We had 
a slight sprinkling of rain, but very little at this 
time. We saw eight stags together at a distance. 
Oh I had dearest Albert been here with his rifle ! 
We rode on and back till we came to a sheltered 
place near the burnside, about one mile and three- 
quarters from Glenfiddich Lodge, where one of 
the Duke's keepers had prepared a fire and got a 
kettle boiling, and here we took our tea. After- 
wards I sketched, but we were surrounded by a 
perfect cloud of midges which bit me dreadfull)'. 
The gentlemen left us, after tea, and walked home. 
I walked a little while, and then rode back by a 
quarter to seven. A beautiful mild evening, the 



ft 



-^ 



■ ■'; ■ 



a 



a 



sky a lovely colour. Dear good Sharp* was with 
us and out each day, and so affectionate. 

A. Thomson, S. Forbes, Kennedy, and J. 
Stewart, the latter with the ponies, as well as the 
Duke's forester Lindsay, were out with us. Dinner 
as yesterday. Jane Churchill finished reading- 
'* Pride and Prejudice" to us after dinner. A very 
clear starlight night. 






• Friday, St'pfemder 2 7. 

A fair but dull morning. These qu'et break- 
fasts with dear Louise, who was most amiable, 
attentive, and cheerful, were very comfortable, 
just as they had been in 1 865 with good Lenchen, 
and in 1806 with Louise at Diinkeld. Sketched 
hastily the stables from one window, and the 
approach from the other. The house in itself is 
really a good one, the rooms so well-sized and so 
conveniently placed, all close to each other. The 
cuisine, though very simple, was excellent, and the 
meat etc. the very best — only a female cook. 
The Duke was very kiisd. 

i\t a quarter-past ten we left, taking leave of 

' * A favourite collie of mine. 



^ 




t > ^ 

i 



[& 



— & 



( 



ICl 



) 



I 

the Duke at the door. Sir Thomas sat widi 
Brown on the box. Tlie d?y was raw. Wc 
drove precisely the same way as we came. In 
Dufftown the people had turned out, the bell 
was rung and the band played, but they seemed 
hardly sure till we had passed who it was. We 
drove through at a great rate. The day being 
fair, we could see the country better. At one we 
got to the same place where we had lunched 
on Tuesday, and here changed horses, and Sir 
Thomas left us and got into his dogcart and 
drove after us. The sun had come out, and the 
day was fine and warm. As we passed Tomna- 
voulin, and in various other places, people were 
out. We drove on for about two or three miles, 
and then stopped at twenty min'ites to two, just 
before we turned into the glen of the Lccht Hills ; 
and here just below the road, under a bank on the 
grass, we sat down and took our luncheon, and 
sketched. Sir Thomas drove on, and we saw 
him again near the top of the hills, while we 
began the first very steep ascent, which seemed 
almost beyond the horses' power ; but though 
only a pair, they got us up admirably. Brown 
walked by the carriage all the time, being very 



i&- 



fiJ 



f ; 



lii 



a- 



"-& 



t 



( 



I02 



) 



anxious about the road. Then clown ever so 
long, having a splendid view of the hills — the 
road being dreadfully rough and bad besides — 
then up again, and when it came to that very 
steep winding hill going down to Bridge End, 
we got out and walked to the bottom and across 
the ford at TornaJioish over a foot-bridge. Tlie 
view here was splendid, all the hills rising 
around, with the old Castle of Corgarff, and the 
river Don with the valley of the Don-side in the 
foreground. 

Here we found our horses and drove on. It 
was raining at this time {about four), and it rained 
several times during the evening. We drove on, 
and after we passed Tornahoish two or three miles, 
and had got up the long hill, we found a sort of 
hole in the bank (such as are often met with where 
gravel and stones have been taken out), where we 
took our tea. The kettle took some time boiling, 
as we had only cold water from the burn. When 
we go out only for the afternoon we take two 
bottles filled with hot water, which saves much 
time. Poor Louise had been suffering from tooth- 
ache all the time. We got safely home at ten 
minutes past seven o'clock. 



tf 



mmt 



mm;, 



muim-^- 



""& 



cfl-^ 



-■fl] 



10' 



Unveiling of the Prince's Statue at 
Balmoral. 



U 



Ttiesday, October 15, 1867. 

Our blessed Engagement Day ! A dear and 
sacred day — already twenty-eight years ago. 
How I ever bless it ! A wet morning — most 
annoying and provoking ! 

At a quarter-past eleven in this distressing 
rain, which twice had given hopes of ceasing, I, 
with all the family and Janie Ely, drove to the 
spot, just above Middletons Lodge, where were 
assembled all the servants and tenants, and the 
detachment of the 93rd Highlanders drawn up 
opposite, just behind the Statue. I and the chil- 
dren stood just in front of the Statue, which was 
covered. A verse of the looth Psalm was sung, 
and Mr. Taylor then stepped forward and offered 
up a beautiful prayer (in pelting rain at that 



I 
1 



-ff 



^- 



# 



m 



11 



\r 



cB- 



^ 



( "04 ) 



^ 



moment), after which the order was ^Iven to un- 
cover the Statue ; but (as happened at Aberdeen) 
the covering caught, and it was a Httle while 
before it could be loosened from the shoulder. 

The soldiers presented arms, and the pipes 
played, as we gazed on the dear noble figure of 
my beloved one, who used to be with us here 
in the prime of beauty, goodness, and strength. 

Then Dr. Robertson stepped forward, and made 
a very pretty little speech in the name of the ser- 
vants and tenants, thanking me for the gift of the 
statue. ife spoke remarkably well. This was 
followed by the soldiers firing a feu de joie ; then 
all cheered, and the whole concluded by " God 
save the Queen " being sung extremely well. 



W 



\%: 




"flj 



if 




.1 



i 



i 




< ^ 

It 

Z "^ 

^.^ 

CO 

- v 

z ^ 

UJ ,^' 



^;S! 



II m i . i m I iiMii i 



tfi- 



( 105 ) 



First Visit to the Gi.assai.t SiiitL. 

A HuUSE-WARMlNG. 



■-a 



g 



^ 



Thursday, October i, 1868, 

At nearly four o'clock left with Louise and 
Jane Ciiurchill for the Glassalt Shul. It was a 
beautiful evening, clear and frosty. We drove 
by BirJJiall and the Lmn of Muich, where we 
stopped to take tea ; we had just finished when 
Arthur arrived from Ballater with Grant, who 
had gone to meet him there. He had travelled 
straight from Geneva, and looked rather tired, 
having besides had a bad passage. After walking 
a little we drove on, Arthur getting into the 
carriage with us, and Grant going with Brown on 
the box. We arrived at half-past six at the 
Glassalt Shiel, which looked so cheerful and com- 
fortable, all lit up, and the rooms so cozy and nice. 
There is a wonderful deal of room in the compact 



-E? 



'I I 



r 



— a 



( 106 ) 



little house. A good staircase (the only one) leads 
to the upper floor, where are the rooms for 
Louise, Jane Churchill, her maid, and Arthur, in 
one passage ; out of this there is another, where 
are three rooms for Brown, the cook, and another 
servant ; in one of these Grant and Ross slept, 
and C. Thomson in the other. Below are my 
sitting-room, bedroom, and my maids' room ; and 
on the other side of our little hall the dining- 
room ; then a nice kitchen, small steward's room, 
store-closet, and another small room where two 
menservants slept. The small passage near my 
bedroom shuts off the rest, and makes it quite 
private and quiet. Good stables, and the keeper's 
cottage, where our gillies sleep, just outside at the 
back. 

We dined at about half-past eight in the small 
dininor-room. This over, after waitino- for a little 
while in my sitting-room, Brown came to say all 
the servants were ready for the house-warming, 
and at twenty minutes to ten we went into the 
little dining-room, which had been cleare,d, and 
where all the servants were assembled, viz., my 
second dre.sscr,* C, Wilmore, Brown, Grant, Ross 

* She was in my service for Ihiiteen years, and left in 1S81. 



^- 



\ 



-a 



rh 



\B 



""& 



( J07 ) 



(who played), Mollis (the cook), Lady Churchill's 
maid, Maxted, C. and A. Thomson, Blake (the 
footman), the two housemaids, Kennedy, J. 
Stewart (the stableman), and the policeman (who 
only comes to do duty outside at night). We 
made nineteen altogether. Five animated reels 
were danced, in which all (but myself) joined. 
Alter the first reel " whisky-toddy " was brought 
roimd for every one, and Brown begged I would 
drink to the " fire-kindling." Then- Grant made 
a little speech, with an allusion to the wild place 
v/e were in, and concluding with a wish " that 
our Royal Mistress, our good Queen," should 
" live long." This was followed by cheers given 
out by Ross in regular Highland style, and all 
drank my health. The merry pretty little ball 
ended at a quarter-past eleven. The men, how- 
ever, went on singing in the steward's room for 
some time, and all were very happy, but I heard 
nothing, as the little passage near my bedroom 
shuts everything off. 

Sad thoughts filled my heart both befor:; dinner 
and when I was alone and retired to rest. I 
thought of the happy past and my darling husband 
whom I fancied I must see, and who always 



^ 



-EP 



If I 



m 



If, 






u 
} I 



^' 



r- 



ft 



■B- 




{ io8 ) 



wished to build here, in this favourite wild spot, 
quite in amidst the hills. At AltnagiiUhasach 
I could not have lived again now — alone. It is 
far better to have built a totally new house ; but 
then the sad thought struck me that it was the 
first Widows house, not built by him or hallowed 
by his memory. But I am sure his blessing does 
rest on it, and on those who live in it. 



-ff 



*» j i i! ii . < !,f' »«iia Bi' ' i ^^ w i ^i ' " ' '-'■■ — - 



ft 



fi 



( 109 ) 



"Juici.vG THE Sheep," 1868. 



a 



Thursday, October 2\. 

At a quarter to twelve I drove off with Louise 
and Leopold in the waggonette up to near the 
''Busir (the residence of WilHam Brown,* the 
farmer) to see them "juice the sheep." This is a 
practice pursued all over the Higlilands before the 
sheep are sent' down to the low country for the 
winter. It is done to preserve the wool. Not far 
from the burnside, where there are a few hillocks, 
was a pen in which the sheep were placed, and 
then, just outside it, a large sort of trough filled 
with liquid tobacco and soap, and into this the 
sheep were dipped one after the other ; one man 
(James Brown,f my shepherd, the elder brotlier, 
who came up on purpose to help) took the sheep one 

* Brown's fourth brother, 
t Brown's eldest brother. 



■ T. 



fa 



& 



mmmmmmm 



mimm 



in!"»^wnBWT" 



C& 



( I'O ) 

by one out of the pen and turned them on their 
backs ; and then William and he, holding them 
by their legs, dipped them well in, after which 
they were let into another pen into which this 
trough opened, and here they had to remain to 
dry. To the left, a little lower down, was a 
cauldron boiling over a fire and containing the 
tobacco with water and soap ; this was then 
emptied into a tub, from which it was transferred 
into the trough. A very rosy-faced lassie, with 
a plaid over her head, was superint^mding this 
part of the work, and helped to fetch the water 
from the burn, while children and many collie 
dogs were grouped about, and several men and 
shepherds were helping. It was a very curious 
and picturesque sight. 



-a 



^- 



■ff 



-a 



f 



-fh 



( III ) 



A Highland "Kirstnin" (Christening), 1868. 



Sunday y October 24. 

At a quarter to four I drove, with Louise, 
Beatrice, and Lady Ely, to John Thomson the 
wood forester's house for the christening of their 
child, three weeks old. Here, in their little sitting- 
room, in front of the vvindow stood a table covered 
with a white cloth, on which was placed a basin 
with water, a bible, and a paper with the certifi- 
cate of the child's birth. 

We stood on one side, and John Thomson in 
his Highland dress next the minister, who was 
opposite me at the head of the table. Barbara, 
his wife, stood next to him, with tlie baby in her 
arms, and then the old Thomsons and their un- 
married daughter, the Donald Stewarts, Grants, 
and Victoria, Morgan and sister, and Brown. 

Dr. Taylor (who wore his gown) then began 
with an address and prayer, giving thanks " for a 
living mother and a living child," after which fol- 



R3- 



-tf 



w 



[& 



M: ' 



U I 



( 



I 12 



) 



lowed another prayer ; he then read a few passages 
from Scripture, after which came the usual ques- 
tions which he addressed to the father, and to 
which he bowed assent. Then the minister told 
him — 'Present your child for baptism." After 
this the father took the child and held it while the 
minister baptised it, sprinkling it with water, but 
not making the sign of the cross, saying first to 
those present : " The child's name is Victoria ; " 
and then to the child : 

Victoria, I baptise thee in the name of the Father, and 
of the Son, and of the Holy Ghost, One God blessed 
for ever. — Amen. 

The Lord bless thee and keep thee ! The Lord make 
His face to shine upon thee and be gracious unto thee ! 
The Lord lift up His countenance upon thee and give 
thee peace ! 

The service was concluded with another short 
prayer and the usual blessing. I thought it most 
appropriate, touching, and impressive. I gave 
my present (a silver mug) to the father, kissed the 
little baby, and then we all drank to its health 
and that of its mother in whisky, which was 
handed round with cakes. It was all so nicely 
done, so simply, and yet with such dignity. 



ft 



f& 



# 



mtm t ^i^wfttmm 



-a 



c&- 



( I'i ) 



A Second Christening, i863. 



a 



& 



On Monday, November i, I drove down at a 
quarter to four with Louise, Beatrice, Leopold 
(who was on the box with Brown), and Lady Ely, 
to the Bus/i (William Biown's) to witness the 
christening of his first child, just a week old, which 
was to be called Albert. The "ervice was nearly 
the same, only two instead of three prayers, and 
the young mother with the child, who was only a 
week old, was seated by the fire, looking very 
nice, with the baby on her lap. The old mother, 
Mrs. Brown, in her white mutch, the three brothers, 
and a few neighbours stood round the room. I 
gave my present. It was a touching and impres- 
sive sight to see the young father holding hie 
child with an exp .ession of so much devotion i\nd 
earnestness. On this occasion a dinner was given 
by the father after we left, in which Dr. Taylor 
took part. 



f& 



-ff 



m^ 



Hii 



mmmvmmmm 



jB 



a 



c& 



( ••4 ) 



Widow Grant, 1869. 



On Sunday, Aug^ust 22, i8' 9, I went to see oV 
Mrs. Grant, whom I was grievv^d to see sitting 
in her chair supported by pillows, and her poor 
feet raised upon cushions, very much altered in 
her face, and, I fear, dying of dropsy. 

On August 26 I again saw her, and gave her 
a shawl and pair of socks, and found the poor old 
soul in bed, looking very weak and very ill, but 
bowing her head and thanking me in her usual 
way. I took her hand and held it. 

On the 27th she died. 

On the 28th I stopped at her cottage and 
went in with Louise and Leopold. We found 
all so clean and tidy, but all so silent. Mrs. Gor- 
don, her daughter, was there, having arrived just 
in time to spend the last evening and night with 
her ; and then she lifted the sheeJ:, and there 



& 



*.*■ 



a 



a- 



( "3 ) 



^ 



the poor old woman, whom we had known and 
seen from the first here these twenty-one years, 
lay on a bier in her shroud, but with her usual 
cap on, peaceful and little altered, her dark skin 
taking away from the usual terrible pallor of death. 
She had on the socks I gave her the day before 
yesterday. She was in her eighty-ninth year. 



^ 



^ 



tf 



f 



( "6 ) 



^ 



Visit to Invkrtrossaciis, 1869. 



Wednesday, September i, 1869. 

We got up at half-past seven, breakfasted at 
eight, and at half-past eight left Balmoral with 
Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill (Brown as 
always, unless I mention to the contrary, on the 
box), for Ballater. A high and rather cold wind, 
but very bright sun, dreadfully dnsty. Colonel 
Ponsonby met us at the railway static n. Emilie 
Dittweiler and Annie Macdonald, Ocklee (for the 
two girls), Jane Churchill's maid, Charlie Thomson, 
and the footman Cannon, went with us ; Blake, 
Spong with the luggage, A. Thomson, with Sharp 
(my faithful collie dog), and Annie Gordon (house- 
maid), Kennedy, Arthur Grant, and Hiley (the 
grc^m) with the ponies, all went yesterday, and 
three cooks came from London. We had a saloon 
carriage, but not my own. It grew hot in the 



B ! 



^ 



ff 



-a 



c5^ 



( >i7 ) 



# 



railway train. We stopped at Aberdeen and the 
Ih'idgeof Dun, where Jane Churchill got into our 
carriage, and had hincheon with us ; but we could 
have no one to help to pack and unpack it, which 
is now so comfortably arranged in my own rail- 
way carriage where there is a communication with 
the attendants. 

Stopping a moment at Cupar-Angus, we 
passed through Perth, and nad another short halt 
at Dunblane, where the people crowded very 
much. Here we got a view of the old Cathedral, 
and turned off to Callander, which we reached 
at a quarter past three. There was a very well- 
behaved crowd at the quiet station. Mr. and 
Lady Emily Macnaghten,* to whose house (which 
they had most kindly lent us) we were going, and 
Sir Malcolm and Lady Helen MacGregor (he is 
Miss MacGregor's nephew, she Lady Emily Mac- 
naghten 's niece), received us there. Their little 
girl gave me a nosegay. We at once got into our 
celebrated sociable, which has been to the top of 
the Fm^ca in Switzerland, etc., and had been sent 
on before, Colonel Ponsonby and Brown going on 
the box. We drove off at once with post-horses 

* She died in 1874. 



«&-- 



a 



-ff 



ISI 




a- 



[& 



( "18 ) 



through the small town of Callander, which con- 
sists of one long street with very few shops, and 
few good houses, but many poor ones. Poor 
Kann^ * (who was to have managed everything, 
but had fallen ill) was still laid up there. We 
drove on, and, after about three-quarters of a mile's 
drive, came to Loch Vennachar, a fine lake about 
four miles long, with Ben Venue and other high 
and beautiful mountains rising behind and around 
it. The road is thickly wooded with oak, birch, 
beech, mountain-ash, etc. The house stands ex- 
tremely well on a high eminence, overlooking the 
loch and surrounded by trees, anc' ^u drive up 
through evergreens and trees of a., .v.iids. Half 
an hour brought us to the door of the house, Inver- 
trossachSy which is small and comfortable. At the 
entrance is a nice litde hall in which there is a 
small billiard table ; to the left, beyond that, a 
very nice well-sized dining-room with one large 
window. To the right of the hall is the drawing- 
room, very much Hke the one at Invermark (Lord 
Dalhousie's) ; altogether the house is in that style, 

* My Director of Continental journeys, who had been 
sent to look at the house and to make arrangements for my 
reception. 



-a 



-1=3 



n 



v# 



/ 



s;f !•# tturssiA 9iX^,^i^ 



I « iltrHl»a»iillr 



t 



"~Eb 



h 



1:3 



drh 



{ if9 ) 



but larger. The staircase is almost opposite the 
hall-door, and there is a narrow passage which 
goes on to the left and right, along which are 
Louise's, Baby's (Beatrice's), my sitting-room (a 
snug little room), and my bedroom (very good 
size) ; and out of that, two litde rooms which 
I use as dressing- and bath-rooms, and Emilie 
Dittweiler's. Further on, round a corner as it 
were, beyond Louise's, are Lady Churchill's, her 
maid's, and Colonel Ponsonby's rooms, all very 
fair-sized and comfortable. Close to my dressing- 
rooms a staircase which goes upstairs to where 
Brown and our other people live. The rooms are 
very comfortably and simply furnished, and they 
have put down new carpets everywhere. In the 
absence of poor Kanne, whom we are so sorry for, 
Jungbluth, the cook, acts as steward, ana showed 
us over the rooms. 

We took tea and rested a little, and at twenty 
minutes to six drove out with the two girls (sweet 
Beatrice very happy and very good, the first time 
she had been without a governess) and Lady 
Churchill. We drove along the loch, which has 
always to be done, as there is no road on the /nmr- 
trossachs side further than Invertrossachs itself, and 



4- 



-H 



1:3 



I 

Li 



I: 



c& 



-a 



l[! 



( I20 ) 

crossed over the bridge at Coi'antogleford cele- 
brated in the " Lady of the Lake," then to the 
right down a steep hill and over the bridge by 
Kilmahog, where there are a few cottages and a 
turnpike, on through the Pass of Leny, which is 
now (like every other burn and river) nearly dry, 
overhung by beautiful trees with very grand hills, 
reminding me much of Switzerlatici from their 
greenness, the rugged rocks, and the great amount 
of wood which grows at their base and a good way 
up. It reminded Louise and me very much of 
Pilatus with its meadows and fine trees on the way 
to Hei'gessvyl. We went as far as the beginning 
of Loch Lttdnaig, a very fine wild, grand-looking 
loch ; turning there and going back the same 
way. The view of Lock Vennachay, with the 
beautiful deep blue of Ben Venue and the other 
hills, was lovely. We came in at half-past seven. 
Darling Beatrice took her supper on coming in, 
but she came and sat with us while we were at 
dinner for a short while. Only four at dinner. 
We went out foi a moment afterwards. Very 
mild and starlight. Louise went to bed. Jane 
read a little to me in the drawing-room, but I 
v.'ent upstairs soon, as I was tired. 



^ 



■ff 



,5;^ 



tfl- 



-a 



( '2' ) 



Thursday, September 2. 

A very fine, bright, warm morning. We de- 
cided to go on an expedition, but not to Loch- 
Lomond, as we should have to start so early. 
Breakfasted in the drawing room with Louise and 
Beatrice. Then writing, etc. At twenty minutes 
to twelve I started in the sociable with Louise, 
Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and Colonel Ponsonby 
and Brown on the box, and drove (excellent 
post-horses, always only a pair) to Callander, but 
turned to the right short of it, and went on some 
little way. On coming to the top of a hill we 
saw Be?i Ledi, a splendid hill ; to the north Ben 
Voirlich, and to the east the heights of Uam V r, 
a pink heathery ridge of no great elevation ; and in 
the distance, rising up from the horizon. Dun Myai, 
and the Wallace Monument on the Abbey Craig, 
near Stirling. We went across a moor, and then 
soon passed Loch Ruskic, quite a small lake. The 
country about here is rather lowland, but as we 
proceeded it was extremely pretty, with very fine 
trees and cornfields, and harvesting going on ; 
and soon after, descending a hill, we came upon 



^ 



& 



fmrnmrnm^mmmmmmnmrmimmmmmmm^m^ 



c& 



-a 



( 



122 



) 



the Loch of " Mcntcith " (the only loch in Scotland 
which is ever called lake). It reminds one very 
much of Loch Kinnord near Ballater, and very 
low blue and pink hills rise in the distance. 
There are two or three islands in it ; in the large 
one, Inchmakome, you perceive amongst the thick 
woods the ruins of the ancient priory. Queen 
Mary lived there once, and there are monuments 
of t'le Menteiths to be seen on it. To the right we 
passed the ruin of Rcdnock Castle, and to the left 
the gates of the Park of Rcdnock, with very fine 
large trees, where Mr. Graham, the proprietor, was 
standing. We went on and passed the Clachan 
of Aber/oyle (renowned in Sir Walter Scott's 
"Rob Roy"), and here the splendid scenery be- 
gins — high, rugged, and green hills (reminding 
me again of Pilaitis), very fine large trees and 
beautiful pink heather, interspersed with bracken, 
rocks, and underwood, in the most lovely pro- 
fusion, and Be?i Lomond towering up before us 
with its noble range. We went on perhaps a 
quarter of a mile, and, it being then two o'clock, 
we got out and lunched on the grass under an 
oak at the foot of Craig More. It was very hot, 
the sun stinging, but there were many light white 



^ 



•4P 



(fl 



Hi 



( 



12 



) 



clouds in the blue sky, which gave the most 
beautiful effects of light and shade on this mar- 
vellous colouring. After luncheon and walking 
about a little, not finding any good view to sketch, 
we got into the carriage (our horses had been 
changed), but had not gone above a few yards when 
we came upon Loch Ard, and a lovelier picture 
could not be seen. Bc7i Lomond, blue and yellow, 
rose above the lower hills, which were pink and 
purple with heather, and an isthmus of green 
trees in front dividing it from the rest of the loch. 
We got out and sketched. Only here and there, 
far between, were some poor little cottages with 
picturesque barefooted lasses and children to be 
seen. All speak Gaelic here. Louise and I sat 
sketching for half an hour, Beatrice running about 
merrily with Jane Churchill while we drew. We 
then drove on, and certainly one of the most lovely 
drives I can remember, along*- Loch Ard, a fine long 
loch, with trees of all kinds overhanging the road, 
heather making all pink ; bracken, rocks, high hills 
of such a fine shape, and trees growing up them as 
in Switzerland ; the road rough and bad, with very 
steep bits of hill (but the post-horses went remark- 
ably well) overhanging the loch, which reminded 



c& 



-i 



I. .5(^1 



t& 



■Qi 



;iH! .p 



pii 



( 124 ) 

me very much of the drive along the Lake Zug in 
Siuitzerland. Altogether, the whole drive along 
Lock Ard, then by the very small Loch Dow and 
. the fine Loch Chon, which is very long, was lovely. 
The heather in full bloom, and of the richest kind, 
some almost of a crimson colour, and growing in 
rich tufts along the road. One can see, by the 
mounds or heaps of stone, all along Loch Chon, 
where the Glasgow waterworks are carried, but 
they have not disfigured the landscape. 

Emerging from this road we came upon the 
Loch Lomond Roady having a fine view of Loch 
Arklit, on the banks of which Helen MacGregor 
is said to have been born. The scene of our 
drive to-day is all described in " Rob Roy." Loch 
Arklei lies like Loch Callater, only that the hills are 
higher and more pointed. Leaving this little loch 
to our left, in a few minutes we came upon Loch 
L'Catrine, which was seen in its greatest beauty in 
the fine evening light. Most lovely! We stopped 
at Stronachlachar, a small inn where people stay 
for a night sometimes, and where they embark 
coming from Loch Lomond and vice versa. As 
the small steamer had not yet arrived, we had to 
wait for about a quarter of an hour. But there 



m 



^ 



-W 



fci 



-B) 



[& 



ft 



( 125 ) 

was no crowd, no trouble or annoyance, and 
during the whole of our drive nothing could be 
quieter or more agreeable. Hardly a creature did 
we meet, and we passed merely a very few pretty 
gentlemen's places, or very poor cottages with 
simple women and barefooted long-haired lassies 
and children, quiet and unassuming old men and 
labourers. This solitude, the romance and wild 
loveliness of everything here, the absence of hotels 
and beggars, the independent simple people, who 
all speak Gaelic here, all make beloved Scotland 
the proudest, finest country in the world. Then 
there is that beautiful heather, which you do not 
see elsewhere. I prefer it greatly to Switzerland, 
magnificent and glorious as the scenery of that 
country is. 

It was about ten minutes past five v^hen we 
went on board the very clean little steamer " Rob 
Roy " — the very same we had been on under such 
different circumstances in 1859 on the 14th of 
October, in dreadful weather, thick mist and heavy 
rain, when my beloved Husband and I opened the 
Glasgow Waterworks. We saw the spot and the 
cottage where we lunched. 

We took a turn and steamed a httle way up 



& 



^ 



.i 



^WTW 



:i|!fl|l4.M|HU(iil| 



a- 



- — a 



( 126 ) 



the bay called Glen Gyle, where there is a splen- 
did glen beautifully wooded, which is the country 
of the MacGregors, and where there is a house 
which belonged to MacGregor of Glen Gyle, 
which, with the property, has been bought by a 
rich Glasgow innkeeper of the same clan. We 
turned and went on, and nothing could be more 
beautiful than the loch, wooded all along the 
banlcL. The rugged Ben Venue, so famed in the 
" Lady of the Lake " (which we had with us 
as well as several guide-books, of which we find 
Black's far the best), rises majestically on the 
southern side of the lake, and looking back you 
see the Alps of Arrochar, which well deserve 
the name, for they are quite pointed and most 
beautiful ; their names are Ben Vean, Ben Voirlich, 
Ben Eim, and Ben Crash. Next came the v^^Vi- 
\iXiO'Nn '' Silver Strand," ''Helens Isle," which is 
most lovely, and the narrow creek so beautifully 
wooded below the splendid high hills, and the 
little wooden landing-place which I remembered 
so well ; and very melancholy and yet sweet were 
my feelings when I landed and found on the path' 
some of the same white pebbles which my dearest 
Albert picked up and had made into a bracelet 



f& 



^ 



cS^" 



^ 



( 127 ) 



for me. I picked up and carried off a handful 
myself 

We had taken our tea on board on deck. We 
now entered two hired carriages, the girls and I 
in the first, with Brown on the box, and Jane 
Churchill and Colonel Ponsonby in the second. 
The evening was lovely, and the lights and pink 
and golden sky as we drove through the beautiful 
Trossachs were glorious indeed — 

So wondrous wild, the whole might seem 
The scenery of a fairy dream — ■ 

and along Loch Ac/tray — the setting sun behind 
Be7t Venue, v/hich rose above most gloriously, so 
beautifully described by Sir W. Scott : 

The western waves of ebbing day 
Rolled o'er the glen the level way. 
Each purple peak, each flinty spire 
Was bathed in floods of living fire. 

We passed the fine Trossachs Inn where Louise 
had stopped with Alice and Louis in 1865, and a 
lovely little church in a most picturesque position, 
and lastly the Brig of Turk. It is a long way 
round Loch Vennachar to Invertrossachs : you see 
the house for three-quarters of an hour before you 



ft 



# 



w. 


m 







mmmmmmmmm 



l-i 



c5- 



( 128 ) 

can get to it. Home at eight. The drive back was 
lovely, for long after the sun had set the sky re- 
mained beautifully pink behind the dark blue hills. 
A most successful day. Dinner as yesterday. 
I felt very tired. 

Friday, September 3. 

A very dull, dark thick morning, and the hills 
beyond Calla^ider hardly visible. Still, no rain. 
Went up to my room and wrote a little, and at 
twelve took a walk in a very pretty wood quite 
close below the house, from several points of which 
there are beautiful views, but the atmosphere was 
too thick to see them to-day. . . . We lunched 
all together. ... At half-past three we started 
again (just as yesterday), and drove up the noble 
Pass of Leny, past Kilmahog, where a little boy 
tried to give me a nosegay which was fixed to a 
pole, and in trying to catch it Colonel Ponsonby 
let it fall. The little boy screamed " Stop, 
stop ! " and ran in such an agony of disappoint- 
ment that I stopped the carriage, and took it 
from him to his mother's great delight. On 
our way we saw on a hill among woods Leny 



a 



4- 



^ 



a 



■a 



( 129 ) 

House (belonj^ing to Mr. Buchanan Hamilton), 
where Sir W. Scott lived when he wrote " Rob 
Roy." 

We went along that truly beautiful Loch 
Lubriaig, driving along its windings like the 
Axenstrasse on the Lake of Lucerne, the high, 
jagged, and green hills rising precipitously from 
it. It is four miles long, and very romantic. 
There is a railway unfinished, only a single line, 
on the western side, and as it ran along the 
loch it again reminded me of the Axenstrasse at 
the points where ''■ goes low near the water. 
The road leads under beautiful sycamore trees. 
We passed on the right a farmhouse called 
Ardhullary, where formerly the Abyssinian 
traveller Bruce used to live, and next entered 
Strathyre, a fine broad open strath, wooded and 
with cornfields, the heather on the hills quite 
pink. The village of Strathyre is composed of 
a row of a few peasants' houses, with very 
poor people, and a nice well-built little inn. A 
little way on again you come to a picturesque 
little inn called the Kings House, covered with 
pretty creepers and convolvulus, and here you 
turn short to the left and go up Balquhidder^ 



■ixfi »'a 



c& 



w 



w 



[& 





1 






1 

■ r ! 

■- 

4' 

ir 





■a 



^ 



( 130 ) 

another most lovely glen, with a beautiful view 
of Lac/i Voil with its beautiful sweeping green 
hills, tlie Braes of Balquluddcr, the strath itself 
very rich with its fine trees and cornfields, the 
small river Dalvaio runnins: throucjh it. We 
drove about two miles, passing some pretty 
cottages covered with creepers like the inn I 
mentioned, and stopped outside a neat-looking 
little village, the Kirkton of Dalquhidder (twelve 
miles from Callander), composed of only a few 
cottages. We got out and walked up a steep 
knoll overhanging the road, on which, under a 
splendid plane tree (we passed some most beau- 
tiful limes just before), is the old kirk-yard with 
the ruins of the old church. We went at once 
to look at th'2 tomb of Rob Roy — a flat stone on 
which is carved a figure in a kilt, and next to it 
a stone where his wife is buried, and on which a 
sword is rudely carved.* His son's tomb is next 
to his, but looks far more modern. We went on 
to look at a very curious old font, and then at 
two or three other tombstones. On one of these 
were some verses, which Mr. Cameron, the school- 

* These stones are supposed to be very ancient, and carved 
centuries before they were adapted to their present use. 



W 



[& 



a 



( '3> ) 

master, an intelligent younf^ man, recited, and 
afterwards wrote out for me.* 

We afterwards went into the very pretty new 
church, which is close to the old ruin. Nothing 
can surpass the beauty of the position of this spot, 
for it overlooks Loch Voil and a glen, or rather 
mere ravine or corry, with a hill rising behind it. 
We walked down again and re-entered our car- 
riage, driving back the same way, and passing 
about half a mile from the Kirkiort, on our road 
back, the present burial-place of the MacGregors 
(whose country this is, or, alas ! rather was), which 



* The words of the inscription are : — 

ISABEL CAMBELL, 

SPOUSE TO MR. ROBERT KIRK, MINISTER, 

DIED 25 DECEMUER, l68c, 

SHE HAD TWO SONS, COLIN AND WILLIAM. 

HER AGE 25. 



Stones weep tho' eyes were dry ; 
Choicest flowers soonest die : 
Their sun oft sets at noon, 
Whose fruit is ripe in June. 
Then tears of joy be thine, 
Since earth must soon resign 
To God what is divine. 



Nasci est ccgrotare, vivere est s.xpe mori, et mori est vivere. 
Love and Live. 



4- 



K a 



& 



a- 



t] 



( '3-^ ) 

is a chapel standing in a wood, the whole enclosed 
by a wall and iron gateway. We drove past the 
King's House a very short way, and then got 
out, scrambled up the hillside, sat down on a bank 
overhanging a burn, kindled a fire, and had our 
tea. This was on Lord Breadalbane's property. 
We got home from this very interesting and 
beautiful drive by a quarter-past eight. The 
day had not been bright — dark and dull, but 
quite clear enough to see everything in this truly 
beautiful country. 

Dinner as before. We always sit in the draw- 
ing-room, and Jane read out the newspaper to us. 

Satttrday, September 4. 

Up by half-past seven, and breakfasting at a 
quarter to eight. Got on my pony Sultan * at 
nine, the others walking, and went through the 
wood to the loch's edge, where we three got 
into a small boat and were rowed across to the 
other side by the keeper and underkeeper, Brown 
sitting in the bow, Colonel Ponsonby and Jane 

• I rode him up to the top of the Righi (near Lucerne\ 
5,000 feet high, in 1868. 



fr- 



W 



t& 



ft 



( »33 ) 

Churchill golngf across in another very small boat 
rowed by one man. Here we got into our car- 
riage as before. Dear Beatrice enjoys it all very 
much, and is so good and cheerful. 

We drove on through the beautiful Trossachs to 
Loch Katrine. It was a very dark thick morning; 
no distance to be seen at all, and Ben Venue very 
imperfectly. We embarked by ten o'clock on 
board the steamer " Rob Roy," and steamed off 
for Stronachlachar. No distant view was visible, 
and the colour of the sky was really that of a 
thick November fog. However, by the time we 
reached Stronachlachar, it was much lighter to 
the left, towards where we were going. 

Here we got into two hired carriages again, 
Jane and Colonel Ponsonby preceding us this time. 
We drove along Loch Ar/clet, a lovely drive with 
pink heathered hills to the right, and gradually che 
mist cleared off, and allowed us to see rugged 
peaks above and in front of us. We met (as ve 
had done from the first) several large coaches, 
but with only outside seats, full of tourists. 'J.^his 
reminded me, as did the whole tour this day and 
on Thursday, of Switzerland and our expeditions 
there, especially now when we suddenly came upon 



*\ 



^ 



■ff 



mm^m^^mmwf^m 



a 



■a 



J ■ 

L 


■ 





^ 



( 134 ) 

Loi:/i Lomond, and drove down a very steep hill to 
Inversnaid, where there is only one house (a small 
inn), and saw high mountains, looking shadowy 
in the mist (dry mist), rising abruptly from the 
loch. We went at once on board the fine 
steamer " Prince Consort " (a pleasant idea that 
that dear name should have carried his poor little 
wife, alas ! a widow, and children, on their first 
sail on this beautiful lake which he went to see 
in 1847). She is a fine large vessel, a good deal 
larger than the " Winkelried " (in which we used 
to go on the Lake of Lucerne), with a fine large 
dining-cabin below, a very high upper deck, and 
a gallery underneath on which people can stand 
and smoke without incommoding the others above. 
The following people were on board . Mr. A. 
Smollett, late M.P., Mr. Wylie, factor to Sir T. 
Colquhoun, and Mr. Denny, the auditor, and Mr. 
Young, the secretary. 

We steamed southward, and for the first half 
nothing could be finer or more truly Alpine, 
reminding me much of the I^ake of Lucerne; 
only it is longer — Lock Lomond being twinty- 
two miles long. We kept close to the east shore, 
passing under Ben Lomond with its variously 



4 



I 






.\ 



cB" 



ft 



( 135 ) 

called shoulders — Cruachan, C^-aig a Bochan, and 
Ptarmigan — to Rowardennan pier, where there 
is a pretty little house rented from the Duke of 
Montrose (to whom half Loch Lomond belon*^:) 
by a Mr. Mair, a lovely spot from whence yK... 
can ascend Ben Lomond, which is 3,192 feet nigh 
and well wooded part of the way, with cornfields 
below. After you pass this, where there .re 
fine mountains on either side, though on the 
west shore not so high, the lake widens out, 
but the shores become much flatter and tamer 
(indeed to the east and south completelj' so) ; but 
here are all the beautifully wooded islands, to 
the number of twenty-four. Some of them are 
large ; on IncJilonaig Island the yews are said to 
have been planted by Robert Bruce to encourage 
the people in the use of archery. Another, Inch 
Cailliach, is the ancient burial-place of the Mac 
Gregors. 

On the mainland we passed Cornick Hill, 
and could just see Buchanan Ilonse, the Duke 
of Montrose's, and to the right the island of 
Inch Murrin, on which the Duke has his deer 
preserve. The sun had come out soon alter we 
went on board, and it was blowing quite fresh as 



i 



t& 



m 



jfl— - 



( 136 ) 



we went against the wind. At two o'clock we 
stopped off Portnellan for luncheon, which we 
had brought with us and took below in the hand- 
some large cabin, where fifty or sixty people, if 
not more, could easily dine. Colonel Ponsonby 
also lunched with us. ... . This over, we went to 
the end of the lake to Bulloch, and here turned. 
It became very warm. To the left we passed 
some very pretty villas (castles they resembled) 
and places, amongst others Cameron (Mr. Smol- 
lett's), Arden (Sir J. Lumsden's, Lord Provost of 
Glasgow), Ross-D/iu (Sir J. Colquhoun's), the 
road to Glen Fruin, the islands of Inch Conna- 
ckan, Inch Tavanach, the point of Stob Gobhlach, 
Luss, a very prettily situated village, the mountain 
of Ben Dubh, and the ferry of Inveruglas, oppo- 
site Rowardennan. Then Tarbet, a small town, 
where dearest Albert landed in 1847, and here 
began the highest and finest mountains, with 
splendid passes, richly wooded, and the highest 
mountains rising behind. A glen leads across 
from Tarbet to Arrochar on Loch Long, and 
here you see that most singularly shaped hill 
called the Cobbler, and a little further on the 
splendid Alps 0/ Arrochar. All this and the way 



a 



^- 



■ff 



a- 



-a 



( ^Z7 ) 

in which the hills run into the lake reminded me 
so much of the Nasen on the Lake of Lucerne. 

The head of the lake with the very fine glen 
{Glen Fa Hoc h), along which you can drive to 
Odan, is magnificent. We (Louise and I) sketched 
as best we could, but it is most difificult to do so 
when the steamer keeps moving on ; and we were 
afterwards much vexed we had not asked them 
to go more slowly, as we had to wait again for the 
" Rob Roy " steamer at Stronachlachar. From 
the head of Loch Lomond {where is the Hotel of 
L7iverarna7t) we turned ; we were shown a hole in 
the rock, on the east side, which they called Rob 
Roys Cave, and landed at Inversnaid. The people 
(quite a small crowd) threw bunches of heather as 
we passed. Heather is everywhere the decoration, 
and there is indeed no lovelier, prettier ornament. 
It was in such full bloom. The mountains here 
are peculiarly fine from the sharp serrated out- 
line and wonderful clothing of grass and trees. It 
was a very bright warm evening, and the drive 
back, which we had to take slowly, not to arrive 
too soon, was extremely pretty. At Stronach- 
lachar, both on embarking and disembarking, 
there were a few people collected. On board we 



f& 



W 



mmmmmmmmmmmmmmimi 



fr- 



( '38 ) 



had again our tea, and Mr. Blair, the very oblig- 
ing gentlemanlike host of the Trossachs Inn (and 
possessor of the Loch Katrine steamer), v/ho was 
in attendance each time, gave us some clotted 
cream. 

It was a splendid sail over this most lovely 
loch, and delightful drive back by the Trossachs. 
We got into the boat again where we left it this 
morning, and rowed across ; but this time it was 
most unpleasant, for it blew and was very rough, 
and the little boat rolled and danced. The second 
smaller one with the two others shipped water. 
Rode back and got up to the house by half-past 
seven. This was the only contretemps to our 
most successful, enjoyable day. How dearest 
Albert would have enjoyed it ! 

Dinner just as before, Jane reading the news- 
papers. This day year we went to the BrUnig 
Pass. 

Stmday, September 5. 

V 

A dull muggy morning. Decided not to go to 
kirk, as it would have been very public. So at 
eleven rode (on Sultan) with dear Beatrice (on 
her little Beatrice) for an hour, first up at the back 



a 



^ 



^-ff 



a- 



ft 



( 139 ) 

of the farm, and thf'n a little way on the beautiful 
pink heathery and bracken hills just behind the 
house, and saw Loch Drmtkie almost dry from 
the drought, and looked over to the Bn\i^ of 
Turk, then back by the stables to the house. 
Read the collect, epistle, and gospel, and the 
second lesson for the day, with the two girls, 
Beatrice reading the last-named. 

While we were at luncheon it rained, but it 
soon ceased, and the afternoon became quite fine 
and was very warm. At half-past five walked 
out with Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill, 
stopping at the lodge where Mclsaacs, the keeper, 
and his wife live. Walked some way on, and then 
drove with Beatrice round a short way on the Tros- 
sacks Road, coming home at half-past seven. 

Monday, September 6. 

Misty early, then beautiful and clear and very hot. 
Got up with a bad headache. At five minutes to 
eleven rode off with Beatrice, good Sharp going 
with us and having occasional " collie-shangies " * 

* A Scotch word for quarrels or "rows," but taken from 
fights between " collies." 



^ 



ff 



lUIWWWIHPlllflllHil 



IS *?T 
I) ;S 

I' ': 



1 



pt:i 



r- 



( 140 ) 



with copies when we came near cottages (A. 
Thomson and Kennedy following). We rode out 
the same way we came back yesterday, and then 
up the same hill overlooking LocA Drunkie — which 
really is nearly dry — and on down the other side 
of the hill, as fast as we could go along a rough 
but very pretty road, which brought us, over 
perfumed pink heather interspersed with bracken, 
to a spot where you get a lovely glimpse of 
Loch Achray and Den Venue, We then continued 
along a wood past a few miserable cottages, but 
as private as if I were riding at Balmoral, out 
into the high road just at the Brig of Turk, 
and stopped at what is called " Fergusson's Inn" 
but is in fact the very poorest sort of High- 
land cottage. Here lives Mrs. Fergusson, an 
immensely fat woman and a well-known character, 
who is quite rich and well dressed, but will not 
leave the place where she has lived all her life 
selling whisky. She was brought out and seemed 
delighted to see me, shaking hands with me and 
patting me. She walks with a crutch, and had to 
sit down. We only stopped a very few minutes, 
and then went home as fast as we came, and got 
back by one. But Brown and the other two 



ct- 



-a 



-B^ 



[& 



ft 



( «4i ) 

men were as hot as the day v^^ went up the Rig/ii, 
and it was indeed very hot. Our ride must have 
been eight miles altogether. My head still aching. 
At three, after luncheon, we started just as 
yesterday, and drove the same way as last Friday 
up the Pass of Leny by Lock Lubnaig, Strathyre 
and the King's House : here, instead of turning to 
the left to Balquhidder, we went straight on for 
four miles, till we came to Loch Earn Head. It 
was a beautiful and very hot afternoon. We 
stopped at the inn, which is quite a small place 
commanding a beautiful view of Loch Earn, which 
was splendidly lit up, the loch deep blue and the 
hills all lilac and violet. Sir Malcolm * and Lady 
Helen MacGregor with their two little children 
received us at the door and took us upstairs. 
They have got a very pretty little drawing-room 
(looking on to the loch), which they have arranged 
nicely and comfortably. The two little girls are 
dear little things, Malvina four and Margaret two 
years old. Sir Malcolm wore the kilt. He is a 
captain in the Navy, and showed us some curi- 
osities brought home from New Zealand, also a 
bottle which is said to have belonged to Rob 

* He died in 1879. 



^■ 



-ff 




.iM 



( H2 ) 
^oy, and was ^W^n to I n i ir , 
t^ 'i-e parish, ^a„d a s^:'; o^ ". '^' ='" °'" ™- 
Prince Charies EdwardT TT °"' °^ ^^ich 

^-'- Lady Helen frHarrT?^^^"''- 
°"'y child. Botl>. were ll T A ^"'"""'^ 

. »°"^e tea, and at hJ'T, '''"^, '"'^ ^^^e us 
'"«. There was a slai, f '.^ '"'"' °" °"^ ""e- 
« the door, who d e^ d 2'^"°^'' -"-'«=^ 
and when we left. VVe eha°l 7k" "^ "'""^'^d 
at least very near, in if ^ ^°'''^ ''^^^' °'- 
T^j'^..^//,. They said r °" ""^ ''^^' ''^* ^^m 
«'-ce in „,y b'okf vrd"°"' *^ "■'■^"- 

grounds of ir«'.W«>, which b.r' '^"""^^ '^^ 
colm MacGregor (but w thtnTef ^ '° "'^ ''^'■ 
home, and came back the sal ^' ?" *^ ^^^^ 
home by half-past seven '■°'''' '"^<^hing 

My headache, which had 1,» 



t 



deceived a letter fr^ .- , 

-- •- - -t:'-r-„ssr 

^""^ ^if^ in the mgklands, ^.,, 



a- 



■a 



( "43 ) 

of dear Arthur. The passage had been a very 
good one ; he had mixed with every one on board, 
and been a general favourite — three hundred 
emigrants on board. Walked, and rode a little, 
while the others walked. Tired and feeling ill. 
It turned wet and continued so all the evening. 
We, however, determined to go to Loch Kairifte, 
having ordered the steamer, and boats to row to 
the Silver Strand. So off I went with the girls 
and Lady Churchill just as on the other days, but 
when we got thee it was too wet to do anything ; 
so we only went on board the steamer, took our 
tea in the cabin below, and then drove back again 
by half-past seven. 

Wednesday, September 8. 

A very bad night froiii a violent attack of 
neuralgia in my leg. I only got up after nine, and 
could hardly walk or stand, but was otherwise not 
ill. I took a little, but very little, breakfast, alone. 
I remained at home reading, writing, and resting 
on the sofa or in an arm-chair. I came down to 
luncheon, Brown helping me down and up, but 
took it alone with the children in the drawing-room. 
Rested afterwards, and at twenty minutes to four 



^ 



W 



mmf 






«»^ 



a- 



-a 



( H4 ) 



took a quiet but enjoyable drive with Jane Churchill. 
It was not very bright, nor the distance very clear, 
but there were occasional gleams of bright sunshine 
which lit up the fine scenery. We drove to Loc/i 
Menteith, just the same way as on Thursday, and 
were surprised to find how short the distance was. 
After passing the gate of Rednock Castle we turned 
to the left and drove a short way close along the 
lochside past the kirk and small village (composed 
of only two or three houses) of Port Menteith, 
getting a good view of Inchmahome on the way. 
We sto ed to take our tea (which had been 
made belore we went out, but was quite hot still) 
outside Rednock grounds, and then drove back 
again, but took another turn through Callander, 
and then along a road (above which a number 
of pretty villas are built, and where you have a 
very pretty view) which comes out at Kilmahog 
Ttirnpike. Then home by a quarter past seven. 
Found Sir William Jenner, whom we had sent 
for, arrived. I dined below (hobbling along a 
little better and downstairs without help) in the 
drawing room with Louise and Jane Churchill. 



c& 



W 



a- 



^ 



( 145 ) 



Thursday, September 9. 

I had a really very fair night, and on getting 
up found I could walk much better, for which I 
was most thankful. I went down to breakfast as 
usual. Received again letters from dear Arthur 
and Colonel F.iphinstone with excellent and 
favourable accounts of the good his presence 
had already done. At half-past eleven drove 
with Louise and Beatrice up the Pass of Leny as 
far as the commencement of Loch Liibnaig, in- 
tending to sketch, but it was too late. We met 
first two large coaches covered with people on 
the narrowest part of the bridge going to Kilma- 
hog, and then endless droves of wild-looking, and 
for the most part extremely small, shaggy High- 
land cattle with their drovers and dogs — most wild 
and picturesque — going to Falkirk Tryst. They 
stop for nights on the road — we saw some droves 
grazing on the lower parts of the hills on our way 
to Loch Earn Head—2,x\d the drovers get shelter 
with friends in the cottages and villages about. 
Home at half-past one. Planted two (very small) 
trees in front of the house, as did Louise and 
Beatrice also. Luncheon as yesterday, only with 



eg-- 



4 



a- 



( '46 ) 

the children. My leg very stiff, so that, with great 
regret, I liad to give up going to Loch Katrine 
for the last time, which I had so much wished. 
However, I did drive with Beatrice as far as the 
Trossachs Inn and back, and got a glimpse of the 
beautiful Trossachs and Loch Achray, with Ben 
Venue rising gloriously above it. I even made 
a slight outline of it, and returned, quite pleased 
at this, by half-past seven, stopping to make and 
take our tea not far from home, I remaining in 
the carriage. Felt better altogether, and was 
able to come to the usual dinner, to which also 
Sir W. Jenner came. Dear Beatrice sat with us 
during part of the dinner, as she had done almost 
every night. Brown (the only upper servant in 
attendance, as I brought no page), who waited at 
all my meals, and did all the outdoors attendance 
on me besides, with the greatest handiness, cheer- 
fulness, and alacrity, and the three very good 
footmen, Blake, Cannon, and Charlie Thomson 
(one of seven brothers, two of whom are also in 
my service, and one a gillie at Balmoral), did all 
the waiting at dinner and luncheon. Good Sharp 
was always in the dining-room, but remained 
quietly lying down. 



■a 



[g- 



--ff 



fl- 



'""B] 



( '47 ) 



Friday, Septemher lo. 

Raining early, which made me feel I had done 
right in giving up going by the Spital, as I had 
intended up to yesterday afternoon. Felt, how- 
ever, better, and could walk with much greater 
ease. At half-past eleven we left Inverlrossachs, 
the recollection of the ten days at which — quiet 
and cozy — and of the beautiful country and scenery 
I saw in the neighbourhood, though the last two 
days were spoilt by stupid indisposition, will ever 
be a very pleasant one. The two girls and I 
drove in a Callander carriage, with Brown on the 
box, perched up alarmingly high, Jane Churchill 
and the two gentlemen having preceded us to the 
station at Callander. All our luggage, ponies 
and all, went with our train. We stopped outside 
Perth for luncheon for a few minutes — and Jane 
Churchill came in again at Aberdeen for our tea 
— to enable Brown to come and help us. When 
we reached Ballater, where we got into two 
carriages, it began to rain. 

Reached Balmoral at half-past six. 



^ 



L 2 



•ff 



it 



1 



c& 



^ 



( MS ) 



Sheep CLipriNC, 1870. 



Balmoral, 
Monday, June 13, 1870. 

r3rove off at half-past eleven on past J. Thom- 
son's house. Here, in the nearest adjoining field, 
close to the wall, all the sheep (mine) were in a 
pen, and James Brown, the shepherd, and Mor- 
rison, my grieve at Invergelder, assisted by others 
(one, a brother of the Morgans), took them out one 
by one, tied their legs together, and then placed 
them on the laps of the women who were seated 
on the ground, and who clipped them one after 
the other, wonderfully well, with huge scissors or 
clippers. Four were seated in a sort of half-circle, 
of whom three were Mrs. Durran, Mrs. Leys (both 
these did their work admirably), and Mrs. Morri- 
son, who seemed rather new at it, and had some 
difficulty with these great heavy sheep, which kick 



ca 



-ff 



a- 



( H9 ) 

a good deal. The clippers must take them between 
their knees, and 'it is very hard work. Four other 
women were sitting close under the wall, also 
clipping. Then the sheep were all marked ; and 
some, before being clipped, had to have their 
horns sawn to prevent them growing into their 
heads. It was a very picturesque sight, and quite 
curious to see the splendid thick wool peel off 
like a regular coat. 



-a 



'B- 



■ff 



Vfl^fJKAMwuuiiUf a.-* jliAi. -^ 



II 



[& 



( 'SO ) 



■^ 



Betrothal of Princess Louise to the Marquis 
OF LoRNE, October 3, 1870. 



Balmoral, 
October 3, 1870. 

This was an eventful day ! Our dear Louise 
was engaged to Lord Lome. 

The event took place during a walk from the 
Glassalt Shiel to the Dhn Loch. She had gone 
there with Janie Ely, the Lord Chancellor (Lord 
Hatherley;, and Lome. I had driven with Beatrice 
and the Hon. Mrs. Ponsonby to Pannanick J Veils, 
two miles from Ballater, on the south side of the 
Dee, where I had been many years ago. Unfor- 
tunately almost all the trees which covered the hills 
have been cut down. 

We got out and tasted the water, which is 
strongly impregnated with iron, and looked at the 
bath and at the humble but very clean accommo- 



t& 



■ff 



[fl 



•a 



{ 151 ) 

dation in the curious little old inn, which used to 
be very much frequented. Brown formerly stayed 
there fox a year as servant, and then quantities of 
horses and goats were there. 

The same perfectly cloudless sky as on the two 
preceding days. We got home by seven. Louise, 
who returned some time after we did, told me 
that Lome had spoken of his devotion to her, and 
proposed to her, ar.d that she had accepted him, 
knowing that I would approve. Though I was 
not unprepared for this result, I felt painfully the 
thought of losing her. But I naturally gave my 
consent, and could only pray that she might be 
happy. 



B- 



A 



cd-- 



( 152 ) 



Communion Sunday at Crathie, 1871, 



a 



Balmoral, 
Sunday, November 13, 1871. 

A very bright morning with deep snow. At 
twelve o'clock I went to the kirk with my two 
ladies (the Duchess of Roxburghe and Lady Ely), 
Lord Bridport being also in attendance. At the 
end of the sermon began the service of the Com- 
munion, which is most touching and beautiful, 
and impressed and moved me more than I can 
express, i shall never forget it. 

The appearance of the kirk was very striking, 
with the tables in the cross seats, on either side 
facing the pulpit, covered with a white cloth. 
Neither Brown, though he came with us, nor any 
of our Scotch servants sat behind us, as usual, but 
all below, as every one does who intends taking 
the sacrament at the " first table." A table, 



tg- 



-ff 



£r 



ft 



( '53 ) 

also covered with a white cloth, was placed in 
front of the middle pew, directly facing the 
pulpit. 

The service was the same as that on ordinary 
Sundays until after the sermon, excepting that 
every psalm and prayer had reference to the 
Lord's Supper, and the sermon was on the perfect 
obedience of the Son (Hebrews ii. lo). 

The prayer after the sermon was very short, 
after which Dr. Taylor delivered an address from 
the pulpit, in which he very beautifully invited 
all true penitents to receive the communion, the 
hardened sinner alone to abstain. It was done in 
a very kind and encouraging tone. Dr. Taylor 
adopted part of one of the English prayers, only 
shortened and simplified. . . . After this address — 
" the Fencing of the Tables," as it is called — the 
minister came down to the small table in front 
of the pulpit, where lie stood with the assistant 
minister, and the elder son either side, and while 
the 35th Paraphrase was being sung the elders 
brought in the Elements, and placed them on the 
table, viz. the bread cut into small pieces, and two 
large plates lined with napkins, and the wine in 
four large silver cups. The minister then read the 



^ 



-ff 




^ 



( 15+ ) 

words of the institution of the Lord's Supper, 
from I Corinthians xi. 23, and this was followed 
by a short but very impressive prayer of conse- 
cration. 

This done, he handed the bread first, and then 
the wine, right and left to the elders, Francis 
Leys (Brown's uncle), Symon "the merchant," 
Hunter, and Dr. Robertson, to dispense; himself 
giving both to one or two people nearest to him, 
who were in the middle pew, where the Thomsons 
a" sit grenerahy, and in which, on this occasion, 
were old Donald Stewart and his wife (eighty-six 
and eighty-one, looking so nice and venerable), 
the young Donald Stewarts, the Thomsons, old 
Mr. and Mrs. Brown (he eighty-one and very 
much bent, and she seventy-one). Old John 
Brown and old Donald Stewart wore large plaids ; 
old Smith of Kintore was likewise in this pew. 
The bread was then reverently eaten, and the 
wine drunk, sitting, each person passing it on one 
to the other ; the cup being replaced by each on 
the table before them after they had partaken of 
the wine, and then the elder carried it on to the 
next pews. In which there were tables, until all 
those in that portion of the church prepared for 



a 



^- 



-i 



». W SI WlWlf ^M V y''*' 



[& 



-a 



( >55 ) 

the Lord's Snpper, had communicated. After 
which the elders replaced the Elements on the 
table before the minister, who delivered a short 
address of thankfulness and exhortation. He 
then crave out the 103rd Psalm, which was sung 
while the communicants were leaving the tables, 
to be occupied in turn by others 

We left after this. It would indeed be impos- 
sible to say how deeply we were impressed by 
the grand simplicity of the service. It was all so 
truly earnest, and no description can do justice 
to the perfect devotion of the whole assemblage. 
It was m )sc touching, and I longed much to 
join in it.* To see all these simple good people 
in their nice plain dresses (including an old 
woman in her mutch), so many of whom I knew, 
and some of whom had walked far, old as they 
were, in the deep snow, was very striking. 
Almost all our own people were there. We came 
home at twenty minutes before two o'clock. 

* Since 1873 I have regularly partaken of the Com- 
munion at Crathic every autumn, it being always given at 
that time. 



<B 



. r ri 



[& 



fh 



( 156 ) 



The "Spate," 1872, 



Tuesday, June 11, 1872. 

Brown came in soon after four o'clock, saying 
he had been down at the v/aterside, for a child had 
fallen into the water, and the whole district was 
out to try and recover it — but it must be drowned 
long before this time. I was dreadfully shocked. 
It was the child of a man named Rattray, who lives 
at Cairn-na-Craig, just above where the new 
wood-merchant has built a house, and quite close 
to the keeper Abercrombie's house, not far from 
Monaltrie Farmhotise in th^ street. At a litde 
before five, set off in the waggonette with 
Beatrice and Janie Ely, and drove along the north 
side oi the river, We stopped a little way beyond 
Tynebaich, and saw the people wandering along the 
riverside. Two women told us that two children 
had fallen in (how terrible !), and that one " had 



^ 



•-ff 



[& 



a 



( '57 ) 

been gotten — the little een " (as the people pro- 
nounce "one"), but not the eldest. They were 
searching everywhere. While we were there, the 
old grandmother, Catenach by name, who lives 
at Saltier Hole, came running along in a great 
state of distress. She is Rattray's mother. We 
drove on a little way, and then turned round. 

We heird from the people that the two boys, 
one of ten or eleven and the other only three, were 
at Mcmaltrie Bur)i which comes down close to the 
farmhouse and below Mrs, Patterson's shop, passing 
under a litde bridge and running into the Dee. 
This burn is generally very low and small, but 
had risen to a great height — the Dee itself being 
tremendously high — not a stone to be seen. The 
little child fell in while the eldest was fishing ; the 
other jumped in after him, trying to save his little 
brother ; and before any one could come out to save 
them (though the screams of Abercrombie's child- 
ren, who were with them, were heard) they were 
carried away and swept by the violence of the 
current into the Dec, and carried along. Too 
dreadful ! It seems, from what I heard coming 
back, that the poor mother was away from home, 
having gone to see her own mother who was 



ex. 



-^3 



w 



■M 




a- 



1 1 



-a 



( >58 ) 



dying, and that she purposely kept this eldest 
boy back from school to watch the little one. 

We drove back and up to Mrs. Grant's, where 
we took tea, and then walked up along the river- 
side, and heard that nothing had been found and 
that the boat had gone back ; but as we approached 
nearer to the castle we saw people, on the banks 
and rocks with sticks searching : amongst them 
was the poor father — a sad and piteous sight — 
crying and looking so anxiously for his poor 
child's body. 

Wednesday, Jtme 12. 

Drove up to the Bush to warn Mr3, William 
Brown never to let dear little Albart run about 
alone, or near to the burn, of the danger of which 
she was quite aware. She said her husband, 
William, had started off early at three this morn- 
ing. Some people went down to Abergeldie and 
as far as the Girnoch to search, and others were 
up and below the castle. 

No word of the poor child being found. All 
were to start early to search. 



^ 



ff 



fi 



( "59 ) 



-a 



Thursday, June 13. 

At half-past ten drove out in the waggonette 
with Beatrice and Janie Ely, and drove beyond 
Mrs. Patterson's "shoppie" a little way, and 
turned up to the right off the road behind the 
wood-merchant's new cottage, and got out just 
below Abercrombie the keepers house, and 
walked a few paces on to the small cottage called 
Cairn-na- Craig, at the foot of Craig Noerdie, in 
a lovely position, sheltered under the hill, yet 
high, with a beautiful view of Loc/magar. Brown 
went in first, and was received by the old grand- 
mother ; and then we went in, and on a table in 
the kitchen covered with a sheet, which they 
lifted up, lay the poor swoet innocent " bairnie," 
only three years old, a fine plump child, and 
looking just as though it slept, with quite a pink 
colour, and very little scratched, in its last clothes 
— with its little hands joined — a most touching 
sight. I let Beatrice see it, and was glad she 
should see death for the first time in so touching 
and ple.ising a form. 

Then the poor modier came in, calm and quiet. 



4- 



■ff 



^/^a> 



^;i^."ia^ 




IMAGE EVALUATrON 
TEST TARGET (MT-3) 




// 










WM 



4t 



1.0 



I.I 



11.25 



ltt|2£ 12.5 

|50 '■^™ iniiHf 

^ 1^ 112.0 



1.4 



2.2 



illi.6 




Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 



23 WiST MAIN STREET 

WEBSTER, N.Y. 14580 

(716) 872-4503 




I 



Ld- 



*K^^ 




a 



a 



q^ 



though she cried a little at first when I took her 
hand and said how much I felt for her, and how 
dreadful it was. She checked herself, and said, 
with that great resignation and trust which it is 
so edifying to witness, and which you see so 
strongly here, " We must try to bear it ; we must 
trust to the Almighty." 

The poor little thing was called Sandy. She 
herself is a thin, pale, dark, very good, and re- 
spectable-looking woman. She had no wish to go 
away that day, as the old grandmother told us, but 
her husband wished her to see her mother. She 
has one boy and two girls left, and the eldest and 
youngest are taken. 

They were playing at the burnside, but some 
way above the road, where there is a small 
brlcfge. As we were leaving I gave her some- 
thing, and she was quite overcome, and blessed 
me for it. 

We walked down again, and then drove back, 
and walked at once past the stables to the river- 
side, where, on both sides, every one was assem- 
bled, four in the boat (Donald Stewart and 
Jemmie Brown amongst them), and all with 
sticks, and up and down they w^ent, searching 



-ff 



a- 



ft 



( i6i ) 

under every stone. They had been up to the 
boat pool and back, but nothing appeared. I 
remained watching till one o'clock, feeling unable 
to tear myself away from this terrible sight. The 
poor father was on our side, William Brown 
amongst the others on the other side. I sat on 
the bank with Janie Ely for some time (Beatrice 
having gone in earlier than I), Grant as well as 
Brown standing near me. When they came to 
that very deep pool, where twenty-two years ago 
a man was nearly drown'^'d when they were 
leistering for salmon, they held a piece of red 
cloth on a pole over the water, which enabled 
them to see down to the bottom. But all in vain. 
The river, though lower, was still very high. 

At four took a short drive in the single pony 
carriage with Janie Ely, and back before five. 
Saw and talked tc the schoolmaster, Mr. Lubban, 
a very nice little man, and he said that this poor 
child, Jemmie, the eldest, was such a good, clever 
boy. Every one shows so much feeling and kind- 
ness. It is quite beautiful to see the way in 
which every one turned out to help to find this 
poor child, from the first thing in the morning 
till the last at night — which, during these long 



t 



-.-p 



m^f^ 



MP 



[fl^ 



ft 



in 



( 162 ) 



days, was very hard work — and all seemed to 
feel the calamity deeply. We heard by telegraph 
during dinner that the poor boy's body had been 
found on an island opposite Pannanich, below 
BallateVy and that steps would be taken at once 
to recover it, 

Saturday, June 15. 

After luncheon, at a quarter to three, drove with 
the two children up as far as the West Lodge, 
and then just descried the sad funeral procession 
slowly and sadly wending its way along the road ; 
so we drove back again, catching glimpses of it 
as we went along, and drove on a little way 
beyond the bridge, when, seeing the first people 
not far off, we turned and drove back, stopping 
close to the bridge, and here we waited to see 
them pass. There were about thirty people, I 
should say, including the poor father, Jemmie and 
Willie Brown, Francie's brother, Alick Leys, 
Farmer Patterson, etc. The poor father walked 
in front of one of the coffins ; both covered with 
white, and so small. It was a very sad sight. 
Dr. Taylor walked last with another gentleman. 
He had of course been up to the house and 



0- 



j 






a 



& 



( 163 ) 

performed the service there, as is always done 
throughout Scotland by all the Protestant deno- 
minations except the EpiscopaHan, and no service 
whatever near the grave.* We watched the sad 
procession as long as we could, and drove home 
again. 

* A change has taken place since this was written, and now 
0«»3) a prayer is sometimes said as well at the grave. 



-a 



=5- 



M 2 



& 



w 












c& 



( 164 ) 



■^ 



Visit to Holyrood and Edinburgh, 
August 13, 1872. 



7^71 €s day, August \ 2. 

At six I left sweet Osborne with Leopold and 
Beatrice, Marie Leiningen, and the Duchess of 
Roxburghe, Flora Macdonald,* Colonels Ponsonby 
and De Ros, Mr. Collins, and Friiiilein Bauer. 
It was very warm. The yachts, which were out, 
had a very pretty effect. At Gosporf, where we 
had to wait about ten minutes before landing, 
as we arrived too soon, I took leave of dear 
Marie Leiningen, who was to return to Germany 
next day. We had our own usual large travelling 
railway carriages, which are indeed charming. 

It was a splendid night. Sir W. Jenner joined 
us at Basmgsioke, and at Banbury at half- past 
ten we stopped for refreshments, and lay down 
before twelve. 

* The Hon. Flora Macdonald, Maid of Honour, now Bed- 
chamber Woman. 



^- 



& 



a- 



--a 



{ 165 ) 



Wedftesday, August 14. 

I had a good deal of rest, and was up and 
dressed by eight, or a little past. But we had 
already passed Melrose, and there was so much 
fog, and the air so thick, that we could see very 
little. The last station (not in a village or town) 
was Fountainhall, where old Mr. Lawson, the 
former Lord Provost of Edinburgh and famous 
seedsman, came up to the carriage, and some little 
girls presented Baby (as Beatrice is always called 
by us still) with a nosegay. We passed Porto- 
belb, and a few mJnutes more brought us to the 
very station — the private one, outside Edinburgh 
— which for eleven years my beloved Albert and 
I had always arrived at, and where we left it 
together eleven years ago. There it was, all un- 
altered, and yet all so altered ! 

The General, Sir J. Douglas,* the Lord Pro- 
vost, and other official people received us there, 
and we got into our carriage. The two children 
and the Duchess of Roxburghe went in the car- 
riage with me. 

• Commanding the forces in Scotland. 



ft 



mi \ 



\'f i 



IM 



[& 



li' : 



■ ■ ( 166 ) 

It was a dull, gloomy, heavy morning, but a 
great many people were out, and all most enthu- 
siastic, reminding me forcibly and sadly of former 
days. We had an escort of the Scots Greys. 
We drove up to the door of the old, gloomy, but 
historical Palace of Holyrood, where a guard of 
honour with a band of the 93rd Highlanders 
were stationed in the quadrangle of the court. 
We got out, walked up the usual stairs, and passed 
through two of the large gloomy rooms we used 
to occupy, and then went past some passages up 
another and very steep staircase to the so-called 
** Argyll roo7Hs" which have been arranged for 
me, with very pretty light paper, chintz, and 
carpets (chosen by Louise). There is a suite, be- 
ginning with a dining-room (the least cheerful) at 
the farthest end, and then my sitting-room, a large 
and most cheerful room, the nicest of all, with 
very light paper ; next to this the bedroom, almost 
too large a room, and out of this the dressing-room. 
All open one out of the other, and have, except 
the dining-room, the same pretty carpets and 
chintzes (red geraniums on a white ground). The 
page's room and a wardrobe and dresser's room 
are just opposite, across a small passage. 



^ 



a 



— FP 



it}- 



-- £b 



( 167 ) 



We three took b»-eakfast directly in the dining- 
room. Our rooms are above the old rooms, and 
have the same look-out. 

It cleared up, and thouc^h still thick and hazy, 
the sun shone out brightly, and at a quarter to 
twelve I went out into the garden, going through 
our old rooms, which looked sadly deserted : all 
open and some few things removed from them ; 
the gloomy bedroom with its faded tapestry and 
green silk bed, and the wretched little dark box- 
room in which I undressed at night all full of 
many recollections. I went through the long 
picture gallery, down the small steps into the 
garden, where I met Beatrice, who walked with 
me. We walked about the garden, which i.s im- 
proved, but terribly overlooked, and quite exposed 
to public view on the side looking towards the 
street. We walked about the fine old chapel witli 
its beautiful window and its tombstones, and then 
went in — Beatrice and I with Brown (who was 
much interested by all) — conducted by the keeper, 
an intelligent sensible man called Anderson, and 
visited the rooms of Queen Mary, beginning with 
the Hamilton apartments (which were Lord 
Darnley's rooms) and going up the old staircase 



>&-- 



^ 



wmm 



f 



( ^68 ) 



to Queen Mary's chamber. In Lord Darnley's 
rooms there are some fine old tapestry and inter- 
esting- portraits of the Royal family, and of the 
Dukes and Duchesses of Hamilton. There are 
some other curious old pictures in this room. 

We saw the small secret staircase which led up 
in the turret to Queen Mary's bedroom, and we 
went up another dark old winding'' staircase at the 
top of which poor Rizzio was so horribly murdered 
— whose blood is still supposed to stain the floor. 
We entered the Presence Chamber, the ceiling of 
which, in panels, is from the time of Queen Mary, 
and contains her mother's and her own initials and 
arms as Dauphine of France and Queen of Scotland, 
with Darnley's initials. Here is the bed provided 
for Charles I. when he came to Holy rood to be 
crowned King of Scotland. Thence we were 
shown into poor Queen Mary's bedroom, where 
are the faded old bed she used, the baby-basket 
sent her by Queen Elizabeth when King James I. 
was born, and her work-box. All hung with old 
tapestry, and the two little turret rooms ; the 
one where she was supping when poor Rizzio 
was murdered, the other her dressing-room. Bits 
of the old tapestry which covered the walls at 



-a 



i& 



w 



hi 



tS- 



^ 



( '69 ) 

the time are hung up In frames In the rooms. 
Beatrice is immensely interested by all she sees, 
and deliorhted with everything. 

At half-past five drove off in the open landau 
and four with Beatrice, Leopold, and the Duchess 
of Roxburghe, the two equerries riding. We 
drove up through the Canongate, that curious 
old street with its very high-storied houses, past 
Knoxs House and quaint old buildings, with the 
lowest, poorest people about, down Batik Sired, 
and eastward along Princes Street, that splendid 
street with its beautiful shops, hotels, etc., on one 
side, and its fine monuments on the other, the 
gardens and institutions and other parts of the 
town rising above it and crowned by the pictu- 
resque Castle ; then by Saint Andrew Street, 
across Saitit Andrew Sguare (where Lord Mel- 
ville's statue is), along George Stf'eet, a fine wide 
street, at the end of which is Charlotte Square, 
where my dear one'o Monument is to be placed, 
and where I was to have stopped to look at the site. 
But the crowd, which was very great everywhere 
and would run with us (facilitated by the great 
steepness and slipperiness of the streets), as well as 
the great number of cabs and vehicles of all kinds 



tft 



4? 



■^p 



cS- 



-^ 



( 170 ) 



which would drive along after us everywhere, made 
this impossible. We turned to the left with some 
difficulty — one or two carriages coming in contact 
with ours — and went on by //o/>e Street, Queens 
Ferry Street, where we took a wrong turn, and 
went by Clarendon Crescent and Forres Street till 
we got to the Water of Leith, where we found we 
could not go on. 

We had to turn, with considerable difficulty, 
owing to the narrowness of the road, end go back 
again by Moray Place, Heriot Row, and thence 
down by Pitt Street on to Inverleith Roiv (outside 
the town), past the Botanic Garden, then along 
the Queen's Ferry Road, Pilrig Street, and Leith 
Walk (which I remembered from our having taken 
the same drive in i86i), then along a broad street, 
under the Calton Hill, and Regent Terrace, past 
Holyrood, into the beautiful Queen's Drive, right 
round Arthurs Seat with its fine grass, its rocks 
and small lochs. Unfortunately, however, no clear 
distant view could be obtained on account of the 
fog. Home to Holyrood at half-pist seven. It 
was a fatiguing drive. 

The crowds were very great, but the people 
behaved remarkably well ; only they kept cheering 



4^- 



-^' 



a- 



-as 



( '7> ) 

and shouting and running with us, for the postilions 
drove very slowly whenever there was the slightest 
descent, and there were many in the town, and 
one long one coming down home from the Queens 
Drine. A good many flags were out, but there 
were hardly any decorations. The equerries kept 
extremely well close up to the carriage, which 
was no easy task.. 



Thursday, August \<^. 

Again a very foggy morning. Breakfasted at 
half-past nine. Beatrice and Leopold started to 
go and see Roslin Chapel. Walked a little in the 
garden at half-past ten, and then sat for half an 
hour under "^'^.e only tree which afforded shade 
and was not overlooked by the street, a thorn, 
with very overhanging long branches, on a small 
grassy mound or "hillock." Here I read out of 
a volume of Poems by the " Ettrick Shepherd," 
full of beautiful things (which Brown had given 
me some years ago), and wrote till half-past twelve. 

At half-past five I started as yesterday with 
Beatrice, Leopold, and the Duchess of Rox- 
burghe, the two equerries riding, and took a very 



£& 



fl 



3 



pp* 



*mmmm 



rJ' 



■a 



m 



( 172 ) 

long — rather too long — drive. It would have 
been quite beautiful and most enjoyable from the 
very fine scenery with rich vegetation, fine trees, 
and hills, and dales, with the Pentlands in 
the distance, had it not been for a dark, heavy, 
leaden fog and sky like November, but warmer, 
which obscured all the distance in the most pro- 
voking way, and at one time even came down in 
a rather heavy shower. We went out by the 
Quecjts Drive, going to the riglit as we left 
Holyrocd, Numbers of people surrounded the 
entrance, and, as there is a long ascent part of 
the way, some of them, especially b'^^'s, ran along 
with us. We proceeded by the Liber ton Road, on 
past the villages of Straito7i, Lassiuade (very pictu- 
resque, and which I Vv'ell remember from 1842), 
and Bonnyrigg, to Dalhousie Castle, where we 
had visited the late Marquis and Marchioness 
from Dalkeith in 1842 (the Duchess of Buccleuch 
drove me over), an old Scotch castle in red stone, 
where, however, we did not get out. It had been 
raining, but we did not shut the carriage, and just 
as we had thought of doing so the rain ceased. 
From here we drove under a very fine viaduct 
along the Suith Dsk, past Newbattle (not into 



t 



W 



fl 



■a 



/ 



1/3 



) 



the grounds) — where there is an arch which was 
built for George IV. to drive through, but he 
never went there— on through the small town of 
Dalkeith, where many people, as indeed in almost 
every other place, had collected, irto the Park of 
Dalkeith. Here, as wfJl as everywhere in ihe 
neighbourhood, there are beautiful trees, especially 
some very fine sycamores. We drove up to the 
house, and got out, as I wished the children to see 
the rooms where we had lived. The staircase 
and the gallery where I held the Drawing-room 
I remembered well, as also the dining-room. Our 
former rooms were shown us ; but though the 
bed and even the washing-basin still exist, the 
rooms which had been arranged for us are aUered. 
We visited it last in September 1859. The 
population of Dalkeith and of all the villages about 
here are colliers and miners, and are very poor. 
We came home straight, coming into the same 
road as we started by, and going down the hill of 
the Queens Drive. We collected again a goodly 
and most good-humoured crowd, and saw the 
little boys and girls rolling down the steep hill, 
and people pouring in from the town to get a 
sight of us. 



t& 



-ff 



r 



( '74 ) 



ft 






Friday, August 16. 

A thoroughly wet day. At half-past eleven I 
walked out with Flora Macdonald (whose name 
attracted great attention in Edinburgh), right 
across the court to the stables, which are very 
good, and saw all belonging to them — harness- 
room, coach-house, etc. Then I looked intc the 
guard-room next door, where the guard, who 
were called out and drawn up thinking I was 
coming by, did not know us. I went in behind 
them, and I found a sergeant (I think) of the 93rd 
in full dress, with four medals, and I asked him his 
years' service, which were twenty, and where he 
came from — " Perthshire^ Two other men, who 
were cooking and had their coats off, were in tht; 
room where they also slept. The newspapers 
have reported an absurd conversation of mine 
with them, but none took place. We then walked 
back through the house into the garden, and 
finally came home through the chapel at half-past 
twelve. 

It was raining hard, but nevertheless \Ye started 
at half-past four in the open landau, Beatrice 



cg. 



ff 



■-^ 



c& 



■a 



4 



* 



( 175 ) 

and the two ladies with me, the two equerries 
riding. We drove by way of Princes Street, which 
overlooks the Mound with its gardens and fine 
buildings, and is always so animated and full of 
people on foot and in carriages ; crossed the Dean 
Bridge, which commands a most beautiful view, 
though then it was obscured by the pelting rain ; 
passed Stewart's Asylum, a fine new building, 
getting from the road a good view of another 
fine institution, Fcttes College, built only within the 
last few years ; and so on to the edge of Barjiton 
Park, where we turned back to Grant07i. By this 
time it had begun to blow most violently, in addi- 
tion to the rain, and the umbrellas dripped and the 
carriage became soaked. Our road lay close to 
the sea, past Gr anion Pier where we had landed 
in 1842 ; Trinity came next, a place with some 
good houses, and then Newhavcti — where we saw 
many fishwives who were very enthusiastic, but 
not in their smartest dress — and then Leith, where 
there were numbers of people looking out for us 
in spite of the dreadful rain ; but Indeed every- 
where the poor people came out and were most 
loyal. We took a wrong turn here, and had to 
come back again to go to the Albert Docks — ^new 



S" 



'fr 



iii»a^i .».i.K-*>«*i>»x* Tr 



m 



t& 



a 



( 176 ) 

and very splendid large docks, with the ships all 
decked out. We stopped a moment to speak to 
the Provost of Leith, who said the people were 
very grateful for my coming-; and I have since had 
repeated expressions of thanks, saying the good 
people felt my coming out in the rain more than 
anything. We drove on along the shore, with a 
distant view of the Island of Inchkeitli, by Leitli 
Links, the London Road, the Cavalry Bar racks y 
St. Margaret's Station and Queens Park, home. 
We got home by ten minutes past seven. We 
were all more or less wet, and had to change our 
things. The waterproofs seemed not to have 
done their work. After dinner, at twenty minutes 
past eleven, we left Holyrood ; a gardener pre- 
sented me with a bouquet, and said it was "the 
proudest day in his life." It did not rain, so we 
had the carriage open. The two children and 
the Duchess of Roxburghe were in our carriage, 
and we had an escort. Numbers of people were 
out. The whole way was splendidly lit up 
by red, blue, and yellow lights from Salisbttry 
Crags and Arthur s Seat, and the effect was most 
dazzling and beautiful. There were besides some 
torches near the station, which was the same we 



t 



9 






[& 



ft 



( ^11 ) 

arrived at. The Provost hoped I " was leaving 
well," and I thanked him for the very kind recep- 
tion which I had met with, and for the beautiful 
illuminations, 

Saturday, Aligns f 17. 

Did not sleep much or well — it was so very 
hot, and I was too much excited, and then 
we had to be roused up and to dress hurriedly 
before seven, by which time we were at Ballater. 
There were many people out, and so there were 
at Balmoral, where we arrived at a quarter to 
eight. T'-'e heather beautiful, but not completely 
out yet. The air sweet and soft. 

Beloved Mama's birthday i That dear, dear 
mother! so loving and tender, so full of kindness! 
How often I long for that love ! She frequently 
spent this day at Abcrgeldie^ but we were not 
here then. 



^ 



-^^ 



wmm 



) 

u ■ 

■ 




i 



f 



-a 



( '/S ) 



^ 



Visit to Dunrobin, 1872. 



Friday, September b, 1872. 

A dull but fair morning. Breakfasted with the 
children before nine o'clock, and at half-past nine 
I left dear Balmoral in the open landau and four 
with Beatrice and Leopold, Jane Churchill, Fraulein 
Bauer, and Lord Granville, and drove to Ballater, 
where Colonel Ponsonby, Sir W. Jenner, and Mr. 
Collins met us. Besides Brown, who superintends 
everything for me, Emilie Dittweiler, Annie Mac- 
donald, Jemmie Morgan, my second piper Willie 
Leys, Beatrice's, Leopold's, and Lady Churchill's 
attendants, three footmen and Goddard went vvith 
us. We passed into the station at Aberdeen, which 
was immensely crowded. An address and the 
keys were presented by Provost Leslie ; then Lord 
Kintore (who gave me a nosegay and some fruit) 
and young Lord Aber<leen were presented. The 



-# 



-a 



a- 



■a 



- -w 



m- 



( 170 ) 

day was becoming fine, and it was excessively hot. 
From Aberdeen we went by a line totally new to 
me — past Inverurie, close past the hill of Benacliie, 
and got a good sight of the Buck of Cabrach and 
the surrounding hills, past Hnntly and the ruined 
Castle of Huntly to Keiih, where the Banff Volun- 
teers were drawn up and there Were many people 
close to the station, but no one on the platform. 
Here we were delayed by one of the doors, from 
the bedroom into the little dressing-room, refusing 
to open. Annie had gone through shortly before 
we got to Keith, and when she wanted to go back, 
the door would not open, and nothing could make 
it open. Brown tried with all his might, and with 
knives, but in vain, and we had to take in the 
two railway men with us, hammering and knock- 
ing away as we went on, till at last they forced it 
open. We were at Keith at 1.20, and at Elgin at 
1.58. The station here was beautifully decorated ; 
there were several arches adorned with flowers 
and heather, and a platform with raised seats for 
many ladies. The Provost and the Duke of 
Richmond and Lord March were there. The 
Provost presented an address, and then I spoke 
to the Duke of Richmond, who told me that dear 




4 



mm 



a- 



( >So ) 

Uncle Leopold had received the freedom of the 
city when he was staying in the neighbourhood 
in 1819. The ruins of the Cathedral are said to 
be the finest in Scotland, and the tcwn is full of 
ancient recollections. No British sovereign has 
ever been so far north. The Provost's daughter 
presented me with a nosegay. 

We stopped here about ten minutes. It was 
broiling hot. The corn and oats looked ripe, and 
were cut in many places. After this we took 
our luncheon (cold), and as we were sitting at the 
small table we suddenly found ourselves passing 
slowly, without stopping, the station of Forres, 
near which is the wild " muir" which Shakespeare 
chose as the scene of Macbeth 's meeting with the 
v/itches. Nairn lies very prettily on the shore 
of the Moray Frith. We passed Ciil/oden, and 
the moor where that bloody battle, the recol- 
lection of which I cannot bear, was fought. The 
heather beautiful everywhere, and now the scenery 
became very fine. At half-past three we were at 
Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, the position 
of which is lovely. We stopped here for ten mi- 
nutes, but outside the station. There was an im- 
mense crowd, but all very well managed, and no 



a 



c& 



■ff 



a- 



a 



( i8i ) 

squeeze or crush. There were numbers of seats 
in galleries filled with ladies, among whom I re- 
cognised Mrs. Cluny Macpherson. Cluny Mac- 
pherson himself was in command of the Volunteers. 
On the platform to the left (the Volunteers and 
the galleries with seats were to the right) was the 
Provost, Dr. Mackenzie, a fine-looking old man in 
a kilt, with very white hair and a long white beard, 
who presented an address. Lord Seafield, the 
Master of Lovat, Mr. Baillie of Dochfour, and his 
son Mr. Evan Baillie, were all there, and I said a 
word to each. The Provost's grand-daughter pre- 
sented a bouquet. There was an imiUiense crowd 
at the back of the platform. 

As our train proceeded, the scenery was lovely. 
Near the ruins of the old Priory of Beauly the 
river of the same name flows into the Beauly 
Frith* and the frith looks like an enormous lake 
with hills rising above it which were reflected on 
the perfectly still water. The light and colour- 
ing were rather grey, but had a charming effect. 
At twenty minutes to four we reached Dittgwall, 
where there were Volunteers, as indeed there 
were everywhere, and where another address 
* Beauly, so called from the French " Beau lieu." 



iB- 



W 



p^^ 



a- 



a 



( .8. ) 



was presented and also flowers. Sir J. Matheson, 
Lord Lieutenant of the county, was named to me, 
also the Vice-Lieutenant ; and some young ladies 
gave Beatrice nosegqys. The position of Dmg- 
wall, in a glen with hills rising above it, is ex- 
tremely pretty, and reminds me of a village in 
Switzerland. The head of the Cromartie Frith 
appears here. After this and passing slowly Tain 
and St. Duthns (called after the Cathedral there), 
we thought, as we did not stop, and were not to 
do so, that we would take our tea and coffee — 
which kept quite hot in the Norwegian kitchen 
— when suddenly, before we had finished, we 
stopped at Boftar Bridge, and the Duke of Suther- 
land came up to the door. He had been driving 
the engine (!) all the way from Inverness, but only 
appeared now on account of this being the boun- 
dary of his territory, and the commencement of the 
Sntherland railroad. He expressed the honour it 
was to him that I was coming to Dunrobin. Lord 
Ronald L. Gower also came up to the carriage- 
door. There was a most excited station-master 
who would not leave the crowd of poor country- 
people in quiet, but told them to cheer and " cheer 
again," another "cheer," etc., without ceasing. 



I 



^ 



ff 



m 



I 



a 



:„ 



f3- 



( 183 ) 

Here the Dornoch Frith, which first appears at 
Taifiy was left behind, and we entered the glen of 
the Shin. The railway is at a very high level 
here, and you see the Shin windinof below with 
heathery hills on either side and many fine rocks, 
wild, solitary, and picturesque. The Duchess of 
Sutherland's own property begins at the end of 
this glen. At six we were at Golspie station, where 
the Duchess of Sutherland received us, and where 
a detachment of the Sutherland Volunteers, who 
look very handsome in red jackets and Suther- 
land tartan kilts, was drawn up. I got into the 
Duchess's carriage, a barouche with four horses, 
the Duke riding, as also Lady Florence and their 
second son Lord Tarbat, and drove through the 
small town — one long street like Dnfftozun —vi\nc\\ 
is inhabited chiefly ^by a fishing population, and 
was extremely prettily decorated with heather and 
flowers, ana where there were many triumphal 
arches with Gaelic inscriptions (which I annex) 
and some very pretty English ones. 



" Ar Buidheachas do 'n Bhuadhaich." 
" Our gratitude to Victoria." 



^■ 



a 



-ff 



c& 






tb 



^ 



( 'H ) 

'• Na h-ulle lath chi's nach fhaic, slainte duibh 'is solas 

" Health and happiness, far or near." 

(I.iteraliy — " Every day see we you, or see we not, 

health to you and happiness.") 



" Ceud mile failte do Chattaobh." 
"A hundred thousand welcomes to Sutherland." 



" Failte do 'n laith Buidhe." 
" Hail to the lucky day." 



'* Better lo'ed you canna' be ; 
Will you no come back again?" 

Everywhere the loyalty and enthusiasm were 
very great. In about ten minutes we were at Dun- 
robin Castle. Coming suddenly upon it as one 
does, or rather driving down to it, it has a very 
fine imposing appearance with its very high roof 
and turrets, a mixture of an old Scotch castle 
and French chateau, Constance Westminster 
(the Marchioness of Westminster, the Duke's 
youngest sister) was at the door, and Annie 
Sutherland's little girl in the hall, which is, as 
also the staircase, all of stone, with a sort of 
gallery going round opening into a corridor. But 
I will describe this and the rooms to-morrow. 



W 



•^ 



(& 



-QJ 



( -85 ) 

The Duchess took ine to my rooms, which had 
been purposely arranged and handsomely furnished 
by the dear late Duke and Duchess for us both, and 
consist of a sittin^^-room next to the drawing-room, 
with a little turret communicating by a small pas- 
sage with the dressing room, which opens into the 
bedroom and another ro( m wh'ch is my maid's room, 
and was intended for dea.est Albert's dressing- 
room. I went to see Beatrice's room, which is close 
by, down three steps in the same passage. Frau- 
lein Bauer, and Morgan, her dresser, are neilr her. 
Brown lives just opposite in the room intended 
for Albert's valet. It was formerly the prison. 

Rested a little while, for I felt very tired. Dined 
at half-past eight alone in my sitting-room with 
Beatrice and Leopold, Brown waiting. Shortly 
afterwards Annie Sutherland came to see us for a 
little while, and later Jane Churchill. The children 
went early to bed. 

DttJirolnn, 
Satii't'day, September 7. 

I will now describe n*iy rooms. They are very 
high ; the bedroom is the largest and very hand- 
some, with a beautiful bed with white and crold 



en 



^ 



V* j. 






a- 



-a 






i 



( i86 ) 

flowers and doves at each corner (just like one 
at Clieveden), with h'ght blue furniture, and gold 
and white round the cornice of the ceiling ; pale 
blue and white panels ; blue satin spangled with 
yellow leaves (which look just like gold) on the 
walls ; and furniture and carpet to match. The 
dressing-room the same, but pale blue and pink 
silk fluted, on the walls. The sitting-room pale 
sea-green satin, with the cyphers of the late Duke 
and Duchess and their daughters on the ceiling. 
The furniture of light wood, and the sofas, chairs, 
tables, etc., remind me greatly of Clievcden and 
Stafford House. The little boudoir has a small 
domed ceiling, spangled with golden stars, and 
the same lurniture. There are some pretty pic- 
tures in the sitting-room and prints in the other 
rooms. At half-past nine we breakfasted in the 
sitting-room, and scon after saw the Duchess. 
Ac twenty minutes to eleven, I walked out with 
the Duchess and Beatrice to the steps, of which 
there are several flights, leading down to the 
garden, which is very pretty, and where there 
are fountains, and from here straight on to the 
sea, which is closer to the house, by half a mile 
I should say, than at Osborne. We walked along 



11 ' 



qj 



-^ 



_:h^. — -■ 



-ft 



tfl 



( '87 ) 

here, and then up and into the pretty byre for 
Ayrshire cows, and a httle farther on to the 
daily, a very nice, cool round one. The Duchess 
told Brown to open the sitting-room, and we 
found it occupied by a policeman in bed, which 
we were not at all prepared for, and which caused 
much amusement. Florence, Jane Churchill, and 
Fraulein Bauer had joined us here, and shortly 
after the Duke did so too. We walked back 
through the kitchen garden, which is very well 
kept, and the Duke also showed us v/here he has 
a quantity of young salmon which are artificially 
hatched, and also a new apparatus for watering 
grass. We came home by the steps again. 
There is plenty of shade, but rather too many 
trees. The old part of the Castle is as old as the 
twelfth century. The late Duke enlarged it and 
added on the towers, and finished the new part 
in 1849-50. 

In at a quarter to twelve. A dull muggy day. 
We lunched as we breakfasted. Afterwards read- 
ing, etc., and at twenty minutes past four drove 
out in the v/aggonette (Bourner* driving, as I 

* My coachman and postilion, who has been thirty-eight 
years in my service. — 1883. 



a 



43- 



-ff 



w 



i.»«^^.«liB, 



I» y 



II 



[& 



a 



( >S8 ) 

had sent my own carriage and ponies) with 
the Duchess, Constance Westminster, and Jane 
Churchill. We drove past the monument of the 
late Duke, which frice.s the Castle and is outside 
the gates, close to which is the Duke's private 
little station, used only by the family ; rather near, 
for it cannot be above five hundred yards from 
the house, but it is very well managed, so as to 
be but little seen. We drove by the four cross- 
roads, turning to the left through Dunrobin Wood, 
which is really very pretty, with fine Scotch firs 
and other trees of all kinds, beech, oak, ash, and 
birch, above and below the drives, with quantities 
of lovely pink heather and ferns — some parts of 
the drive are rather steep — on to Bacckies, then 
by the Dutch Cottage, on to Benabhraghic Drive, 
and stopped at the four cross- roads to take our 
made tea and coffee, the warmth of which sur- 
prised Constance and Annie very much. We saw 
some deer. Drove on by the same drive {Ben- 
abhraghie, the name of the hill on which the old 
Duke's very colossal statue stands). We stopped 
a little farther on lO look at a fine view of the 
Castle and village, and to the right the hills which 
are seen farther inland, and the blue distant hills 



\ 



W 



cB- 



( 189 ) 

above the coast of Ross-shire ; then came out at 
Culmallie Lodge and passed through the village of 
Golspie with all its pretty decorations, and stopped 
at two cottages outside, when Annie called out 
a nice-looking girl who makes beautiful Shetland 
shawls in the one, and an oldish woman, a charac- 
ter, who worked me a book-marker and lives in 
the other (a double cottage under one roof). We 
drove through the Golspie Burn and dairy park, 
along the grass drive on the seashore below the 
woods, as far as Strathsteplien, and .looking back 
had one of the finest views of the Castle, with the 
hills of Cambiismore rising behind, and, turning 
up into the Cailhness high road, came back to the 
Castle. 

Home at half-past six, A dul' evening. Tried 
to sketch a bit of sea-view. At a quarter past 
eight we had dinner in the dining-room with 
the Duke and Annie (between whom I sat), Leo- 
pold, Constance Westminster, the Granvilles, Jane 
Churchill, and Ronald. I felt strange — such a 
dinner in a strange place for the first time with- 
out my dear one ! Brown waited on me, and did 
so at all meals, attending on me indoors and 
out of doors, mosl efficiendy and indefatigably. 



■a 



ffi 



■ff 



WF^ 



« * » | I>I | I W »».|.> 



I'fH illllitU Mli< 



a- 



li'.t. 






ili 



-^ 



( 190 ) 

Then went for a short time into the drawing-room, 
which is next my sitting-room. Here we were 
joined by Mrs. Sumner (Miss Kingscote by birth, 
half-sister to Colonel Kingscote and niece to 
Lord Bloomfield), a great friend of the Duchess's 
and who is staying in the house with her husband, 
who is a great friend of the Duke's ; Constance 
Pitt, a younger sister of Mary Pitt, and travelling 
with her uncle and Lady Granville ; Dr. Fayrer 
(a distinguished physician, who was for two years 
in India)* Mr. Sumner, and Mr. Edwin Lascelles, 
brother to Mary. I remained for a few minutes, 
and then went to my room. 



Sunday, September 8. 

A fine bright morning. Breakfast as yesterday. 
Directly after it, at a quarter-past ten, walked with 
Beatrice along the Ladys Walk, as it is called, 
which commences near the Castle and goes for a 
mile and a half entirely amongst trees, very shady, 
and overlooking the sea, and with paths leading 
down to the sea, and seats commanding lovely 

* He travelled with Alfred, and has written a remarkable 
book on snakes. 



& 



■ff 



a 



a 



-a 



( '91 ) 

views of the sea and distant coast. It was very 
warm, and the thickness of the adjoining woods 
made the air feel close. We walked back the same 
way, and got home at a quarter-past eleven. At 
twelve there was quite a short service performed by 
Dr. Gumming in the gallery which runs round the 
staircase, Dr. Gumming being opposite to us. It 
was over by a quarier to one. Annie then took me 
up to her room, which is a very pretty one ; long, but 
not high, and very light, with a very fine view above 
all the trees ; very simply furnished. Her dress- 
ing-room and bedroom equally nice and air}', like 
those they have at Stafford House. The Duke's 
dressing-room is very simply and plainly furn'shed ; 
he is wonderfully plain and simple in his tastes. 
The Duchess took me along the passage to where 
Florence lives, and to the nursery where we saw 
little Alix in her bed, and then by a staircase, 
which belongs to the very old part of the Gastle, 
to the rooms which were the dear late Duke's 
and Duchess's, though the last time she came 
here she lived in my rooms. Everywhere prints 
of ourselves and of people I know. After this 
came down again. Luncheon as yesterday. 

At twenty minutes past four walked to the 



ifr 



-i 



Wr 



■ ?^ i'I H« lyili M l)ii i ,yi » w4»*« i te ,. - 



■ Aft ii - ^ UU ^ 



rf^ 



ft 



litft 



» 



• 

ii 


1 

■1 

■" 

1 

t 

« 

{ 

1 



( 192 ) 

nearest seat in the Ladys Walk, and sketched 
the view, and about half-past five drove out in 
the waggonette with Beatrice and Lady Gran- 
ville. We drove through the Uppat Woods, along 
the big burn drive, past the Pidish Tower up to 
Mr. Loch's Memorial, which has the foUowins: 
inscription on it by the late Duchess : — . 

TO THE HONOURED MEMORY OF 

JAMES LOCH, 

WHO LOVED IN THE SERENE EVENING OF HIS LIFE 
TO LOOK AROUND HIM HERE. 

May his children's children gather here, and think of him whose life 
was spent in virtuous labour for the land he loved and for the friends he 
served, who have raised these stones, A.D. 1858. 

Obut Junii 28" 1855. 

The heather is very rich ail round here. We 
got out and went into it, and there is a very fine 
view looking up Dunrobin Glen and over the sea, 
and Birk Head, which is the extreme point of the 
land which runs into the sea. You also get a very 
pretty glimpse of the Castle at the end of a path 
cut through the wood. We drove down again, and 
before we were out of the lower wood, which is 
close down upon the sea-shore, we stopped to take 



t- 



w 



*v-««VI)«TYf>^;2..'. 



^lua;,' i«t-^i,',-.S :«j*f.*i«,_i 



[& 



-a 



( 193 ) 

our tea and coffee, but were half devoured by 
midges. We then came out upon the high road, 
and got into the sea-shore road, about half a mile 
beyond where we went yesterday, and drove along 
it and in by the Dairy — home at seven. Resting, 
writing. Dined in our sitting-room with our two 
children and Annie. Afterwards we went into 
the drawing-room where the ladies and gendemen 
were, but I only stayed a short time. 

Monday, September 9. 

Raining a little early in the day. After break- 
fast drove in the waggonette with Beatrice and 
Jane Churchill to the Kennel, a remarkably nice 
and clean one to the left, and rather farther on 
than the stables, which are close to the railway 
station. Mr. Macdonald, the head keeper (who 
is brother to our poor Macdonald, Albert's late 
Jager), whom I saw at Windsor iwo years ago, 
showed us over them. There are fine deer- 
hounds and pointers and setters. We visited the 
Macdonalds in their nice house, and saw their 
daughters, three of whom are very good-looking 
and remind me of their cousins. He is not the 



tB- 



-ff 



■■,fc ^M 4' > i*< ^M >t»i> nH «» i iiH»..i 



a- 



•~B] 



( 194 ) 



least like his brother. From here we went to 
the stables, which are small, where my ponies 
were, and where we also saw some of Annie's 
ponies and horses. Then walked home, meeting 
the Duke and Ronald on the way. Two splendid 
Highland beasts, which are being fattened for the 
Christmas show, were brought up to the road for 
me to see. We passed the herd they belong to yes- 
terday, when driving. These beasts really are beau- 
tiful, and most picturesque, with their rough coats, 
shaggy heads, and immense spreadmg horns ; the 
greatest number are dun- and mouse-coloured. 
At twenty-five minutes past twelve I started with 
the two children and Annie for the laying of the 
first stone of the Memorial to be raised by the 
clansmen and servants to the memory of my 
dear Duchess of Sutherland, who was adored in 
Sutherland. We drove in the barouche and four. 
The rain had quite ceased. Everyone else had 
gone on before ; the Duke waited to help us in, 
and then ran on followed by MacAlister, his piper, 
valet, and confidential servant — a short stout man 
of sixty, I should say — an excellent man, and first- 
rate piper. We got out, and I went up on a 
platform, which was covered over and close to the 



\ 



t 



-ff 



\n 



. i ili t i WM Iliir M MII|#*i t i W iM . i» > <*w>ipiii 



fi- 



( 195 ) 



stone, with the children, Annie, the Duke, Con- 
stance, and Jane Churchill. All the others, and 
many spectators, stood around. Mr. Joass, the 
minister there, offered up a short prayer, and 
after it presented (but did not read) the Address. 
I then answered what I had thought over, but 
spoke without reading : 

" It gives me great pleasure to testify on this 
occasion my love and esteem for the dear Duchess, 
my valued friend, with whose children I am happy 
to be now staying, and I wish also to express my 
warm thanks for the loyal and hearty welcome I 
have met with in Sntherla7idy 

This made me very nervous, but it was said 
without hesitating. Then the usual ceremony of 
spreading the mortar and of striking the stone 
with a mallet was gone through. The Duke 
gave me a drawing of the intended Memorial, 
which is to be an Eleanor cross, with a bust of 
the dear Duchess, and a medal of her which 
Ronald L. Gower had struck. After this we got 
into the carriage again, amid the cheers of the 
people, and drove back. Only Leopold walked, 
and Constance took his place in the carriage. We 
were in, before one. Almost directly afterwards 



-a 



■eg- 



O a 



BJ 



I 



P!^ 



fl- 



a 



( "96 ) 

Beatrice and I went into the ante-room (where all 
the company who afterwards had luncheon were as- 
sembled) with Annie and the Duke, who presented 
some people to me ; amongst others a very old lady, 
Mrs. Houston by name, who is between eighty and 
ninety, and was a great friend of the dear Duchess 
and of the Duchess of Norfolk. She was quite 
overcome, and said, " Is that my dear Queen," and, 
taking the Duke's hand, " and my darling Duke ? " 
Luncheon as usual. After it saw Lord Granville. 
At a quarter past four drove out in the waggonette, 
drawn by four of the Duke's horses, with Beatrice, 
Annie, and Constance. It was fine though not 
very bright weather, and windy. We drove to 
the top of Benabhraghie, or the Jlfomiment Hill, 
on which is the very colossal statue of the Duke's 
grand fatiier, the first Duke, who married the 
Countess of Sutherland, from whom this enormous 
property came. She died in 1839, and I re- 
member her quite well as a very agreeable, clever 
old lady. We drove through part of the wood 
by the way we went the previous days, up the 
big burn drive and through BaccJiies, looking 
up Dunrobin Glen, which is very wild ; and the 
pink heathery hills, though not very high, and the 



t& 



^ 



i 
! 



c& 



a 



( '97 ) 

moor, with distant hills, were very pretty. It is 
a long pull upwards on a grass drive, which makes 
it very hard work for the horses. Halfway up 
we stopped to take tea and coffee ; and before 
that. Brown (who has an extraordinary eye for 
it, when driving quite fast, which I have not) 
espied a piece of white heather, and jumped off 
to pick it. No Highlander would pass by it 
without picking it, for it is considered to bring 
good luck. We got a very extensive view, though 
not quite clear, of endless hills between this and 
the west coast — all the Duke's property — where 
the Westminsters have two if not three forests of 
the Duke's. 

In fine weather seven counties are to be seen in 
the other direction, looking towards Ross-shire and 
the Moray Frith, but it was not clear enough for 
this. We saw distinctly Ben Rinnes, a highish hill 
that rises in the distance above a long stretch of 
low land extending into the sea which belongs to 
the Duke of Richmond. We drove down the hill 
the same way, but afterwards took a different 
turn into the high-road, and home by Golspie 
and the Lodge by seven. The dear pretty 
little girl came to see me. Beatrice brought 



W 



t& 



# 



i^^ji*' 



h 




mi 

i 

! i 


1 

9 
1 


i 

l\ -.1 

If J 





a- 



Hi 



( -98 ) 

in Lilah Grosvenor, w' i had just arrived. Dined 
at a quarter-past eight in the dining-room, as on 
Saturday. The same people exactly, with the 
addition of Colonel Ponsonby. We h';.d some 
sheep's head, which I tasted for the first time on 
Sunday, and think really very good. Remained 
a littic while in the drawing-room, and the Duke 
presented Mr. Stanley, the discoverer of Living- 
stone. He talked of his meeting with Livingstone, 
who he thinks will require eighteen months to 
finish the work on which he is bent. Sir Henry 
Rawlinson was also there. 

Then went to my room and Jane read. 

Tuesday, September lo. 

Very fine. Our usual breakfast. At half-past 
ten got on my pony Maggie, Annie and Jane 
Churchill walking, and went to see the Golspie 
Burn Falls. We made two mistakes before we 
got right. We went out by the usual approach 
down to the mill, and past the mill under the 
great arch for the railway, over some very rough 
stones in the river, and then along a path in 
the wood full of hazel bushes and trees of all 



t. 






MKM 



ft 



I 



^ 



T 
IP 



a 



( ^99 ) 

kinds, till the glen narrows very much, and we 
came to a wooden bridge, where I got off and 
walked to the head of the falls — over several 
foot-bridges, along a small path overhung by high 
rocks and full of .irh vegetation. It is extremely 
pretty, reminding i.^c: of Com'cmu/zte, only on a 
much smaller scale. I mounted my pony again, 
and rode home the <^.;ame way about twelve. Very 
warm. We had a few drops of rain, but it re- 
mained very fine all day. 

At ten minutes to four started with the two 
children and Annie Sutherland in my waggonette 
for Loc/i P^'ora, which is nine miles off. We 
drove past the stables out on the main Caithness 
road, through the small fishing village of Brora, 
where all the people were out, and where they 
had raised a triumphal arcii and decorated the 
village with heather. We turned sharp to the 
left, and came into a wild moor country, stopping 
for a moment at a place where one of the new 
coal mines which the Duke has found is being 
worked. One of these, near the sea, we had passed 
on Sunday. Then on, till we came very soon 
to the commencement of Loch Brora, which is 
seven miles in length, very narrow at first, and 



^- 



a 



--ff 



\mit * 



c& 



I; I 



ii^ 

l|:»; 



r3 



( 200 ) 

out of which the Brora flows into the sea. The 
hills heighten as the loch widens, and to the 
left as we drove along the Carrol Hill rises 
very finely with bold rocks up above the loch. 
An hour's drive took us to the Fishing Cottage, 
a small wooden house, built like a chalet, which is 
just off the road, on the grass. Here we got out. 
The Duke drove his break, four horses in hand. 
They had never been together before, and it was 
not easy to drive them, for the road is full of turn- 
ings and rather narrow. Lord Granville sat on the 
box with him ; and Constance Westminster, Jane 
Churchill, the Duchess de San Arpino (who had 
just arrived, and is a great friend of the Duchess) 
and Lady Granville were inside, and two grooms 
sitting behind. The three young ladies, and Mr. 
Collins, and Colonel Ponsonby followed in the 
waggonette. They had started before us, but we 
caught them up at Brora. MacAlister had broiled 
some fish and got tea ready for us in a very 
small room upstairs in this little cottage, where 
there was a fire. I had my coffee. We ladies 
and Leopold all squeezed into this room. It was 
a very merry tea. The tea over, we all went 
down to see a haul of fish. It was very siiccess- 



' 



cq-.- 



-ff 



ILI I 



r^ 



a 



a 



( ^oi ) 

ful ; quantities of brilliantly red char, trout, and 
two salmon, both of which had to be put back 
again. After this haul J went up and sat sketch- 
ing on the balcony while there were several more 
hauls, which Macdonald the keeper superintended, 
and some walked, and others rowed. The view, 
looking towards the Carrol Hill, was lovely, and 
the colouring beautiful. 

The ladies and gentlemen rowed across, having 
sent the carriages round, but I preferred terra 
Jirma, and drove round the loch to where the 
Black-Water runs into Loch Brora, and is literally 
black ; we drove over it. The Duchess told us 
that there was a fine drive into a wild country up 
that glen. We drove along the loch side, really 
a beautiful drive, under the Carrol Rock or /////, 
through the Carrol Wooa , *He trees seem to 
grow remarkably well there. We saw some deer 
on the very top of the hills. As w^e drove along 
the loch, some high hills were seen rising up 
behind the low ones on the opposite side, one of 
which, called Ben Arlmin, is in the Duke's nearest 
deer- foi est. 

We turned to the right, passing by mocrs which 
the Duke has cultivated wonderfully with the 



Z^ 



^ 



■ff- 



i!'^^ff^''r 



S;,' 



mmmmmmmmmmimmmmmmmmm. 



\B 



1 1 ■ 



1 ; 



I ■ 



'— Q] 



c& 



( 202 ) 



Steam plough, and came back through Uppat 
stopping near Mr. Loch's place, Uppat, where, in 
early days, the late Duke and Duchess used to 
live when they were Lord and Lady Gower. 
Mr. Loch's father was the commissioner for the 
late Duke, and the present Mr. Loch (whom I 
remember in a similar capacity at Worsley, Lord 
Ellesmere's, in 185 1) is commissioner to the present 
Duke. Mrs. Loch, and her daughter, and little 
granddaughter, who gave me a nosegay, were 
there. Aru ...le Dol schoolchildren were drawn 
up outside the school. We got home through the 
woods at twenty minutes past seven. Dinner was 
at half-past eight in the dining-room, the same as 
before, only with the addition of the Duchess of San 
Arpinoand Sir Henry Rawlinson, and the omission 
of Lord Ronald L. Gower and Colonel Ponsonby. 
I must now describe the dining-room. It is 
not a very large room, but a pretty one ; with 
wood panelling an'' ^x portrait of the first Duchess's 
father, the Earl of, fii •ti:'=irland, at one end, and a 
beautiful chalk drawJ ,^, by Landseer, of two deer 
in the snow, one having been killed by the other. 
Stacks' heads are round the room, and behind one 
(a very fine one) gaspipes have been introduced, 



& 



tfl 



"*^ 



-EP 



a- 



* 



-a 



( 203 ) 

which h'ght up each point. In each panel along 
the sides of the room are paintings after Thor- 
waldsen's statues. By daylight the room is dark 
We had some haggis at dinner to-day, and some 
sheep's head yesterday. MacAlister had walked 
round the table each of the previous days playing, 
but to-day it was my piper,* Willie Leys ; and 
afterwards they played together in the next room. 
Went again for a little while into the drawing- 
room, which is handsome, and about the size of 
the dining-room, and cheerfully arranged with 
tables and ornaments. The paper on the walls 
is dark red. There is a little turret at one end 
of it, and windows on two sides, and it opens into ^ 
the ante- room, which again opens into the library. 
There is a full-length picture of me in the ante- 
room. The dining-room is a detached room on the 
other side ; and the billiard-room is close opposite 
to my sitting-room. Jane Churchill again read to 
me in my room. 

Wednesday, September i r . 

A dull morni ig. The military manoeuvres in 
tlie South seem to be going on very satisfactorily, 

* He left my service in 1876. 



-ff 



lii! 






a- 



( 204 ) 

and every one praises dear Arthur, his indefatigable 
zeal and pains. It is very gratifying. At a quarter 
to eleven walked with Jane Churchill and the 
Duke down to the small museum in the garden, 
which is very nicely arranged, and where there is 
a very interesting collection of Celtic ornaments, 
some of which are quite perfect, and have been 
very well imitated, and of all sorts of odd and 
curious Celtic remains, weapons, utensils, etc., and 
a very fine large collection of all the birds found 
at or near Dunrobin. Mr. Joass, the minister, 
was there to explain everything to us. 

V/e took a short turn, and came home at half- 
pasi" eleven, as it rained. We met little Alix on 
her wee pony. We also saw the Duchess's Nor- 
v/egian cariole ind pony. (Busy choosing presents 
to give away; and after our usual luncheon 
there was some more arranging about these 
presents.) Painting die view of the sea from my 
window. At ten minutes to four started in the 
waggonette, with the two children and Annie. 
The Duke, the other ladies, Ronald L. Gower, 
Colonel Ponsonby, and Sir Henry Rawlinson had 
gone on in the drag. We drove out by the 
West Lodge, through Golspie, on the road (on part 



CB-- 



a 



# 



hi 



a- 



■a 



( 205 ) 

of v^hich we had come before) under the Silver 
Hill, a very pretty wooded road, and turned to 
the right across the Mound, an embankment con- 
structed by the first Duke to make a communica- 
tion across an arm of the sea, called Loch Fleet, 
which comes in there. This Mound "spans 
Stiathfleety Near it is a railway station. 

We then drove through a very pretty glen, 
with fine hills, to Dornoch, along the shore of 
Dornoch Frith, past Cambusmore (though not 
near the house, which . °s up in the wood at the 
foot of the fine hill of that name), on through 
woods for some way, till we suddenly emerged 
on lower ground and saw the steeple of Dornoch 
Church, formerly a cathedral. 

We turned sharp to the left, and went into 
Dornoch ; quite a small place, but the capital of 
Sutherland, now much out of the world, as the 
railv/ay does not go near it. It is a small fishing 
town, smaller than Golspie. There was an arch 
with a Gaelic inscription, and the houses were 
decorated with flowers, heather, and green boughs, 
and many people out. We drove to the door of 
the so-called cathedra! ; though I had not intended 
doing it, I got out there, and walked up the 



i ' 

1 ' 










1 



^ 



ff 



r 



S 



if 



a 



M 




1:1 



( 206 ) 

larg-e kirk. The late Duke's father and mother 
are buried there, as were sixteen Earls of Suther- 
land ; and there is a statue of the old Duke 
in marble. The cathedral was built by Gilbert 
de Moravia, Bishop from 1223 to 1260, at his 
own expense. St. Gilbert was related to the 
Sutherlands, who had then recently acquired that 
vast territory, " the Southern land of Caz^/iness," 
which now gives the title to their descendant, the 
present and third Duke. In a very ancient stone 
sarcophagus are the bones of Richard Murray, 
brother to the Bishop. We only remained a few 
minutes in the church, and then went out by 
another door, where we got into, the carriage. 
There is a curious old tower opposite the church, 
which was part of the Bishop's Palace. The 
people were very enthusiastic, and an old fish- 
wife, with her creel on her back, bare legs and 
feet, and very short petticoat (we met many such 
about Dunrodzn), began waving a handkerchief, 
and almost dancing, near the end of the place as 
we drove away. Brown motioned to her to ccme 
on, and threw her something, which the poor old 
thing ran to pick -^p. We stopped when we had 
regained the wood to take our tea and coffee, and 



IB- 



t& 



ft 






( 207 ) 

were joined by the Duke's drag just as we had 
finished. 

We changed our road, going by Embo and 
Skeldo, thw model farm of the late Duke, and 
drove up to Cambtismore, the pretty little cottage 
of Mr. and Mrs. Bateson. There is a small 
garden in front. The two children got out, and 
so did all the others, but I begged to remain in 
the carriage, as I was tired. However, I after- 
wards got out ; and certainly the little cottage is 
most charmingly fitted up with deer's heads, pretty 
prints, and pretty things of all kinds. They asked 
me to write my name in a book, which I did, 
sitting in the carriage. 

From here we drove back again the same 
way ; and the evening was very fine, and the 
sky beautiful, red and every possible bright 
colour. As we drove along, before reaching 
Cambusmore we saw the high land of Caithness^ a 
good way beyond Brora. Back by seven. Dined 
with the two children in my own room, and then 
went for a short while into the drawing-room ; 
then wrote, and at half-past eleven left Dunrobin, 
with the two children and Annie^ in the Duke's 
carriage, the Duke (in the kilt) helping us in, 



it].,- 



# 



llii^ 






t 



;:| 






' '■ 1: li 


u. 


" 


t ■■■- 




it 


u 



a- 



c& 



( 208 ) 

and then walking, with MacAhster after him, 
up the approach, straight to the private station, 
which is about five hundred yards from the 
house. 

There were many people out, and the whole 
was brilliantly illuminated by Egyptian and red 
and blue lights. At the station all the ladies and 
gentlemen were assembled, and I wished them all 
good-bye, and then got into the train, having 
kissed Annie, and Constance, and the two girls, 
and shaken hands with the Duke, who, as well as 
the Duchess, had been most kind. 

It was half-past twelve before I lay down. 
Beatrice did so sooner. 



Thursday, September 12. 

I had not slept much, but the journey was very 
quiet. At eight we were at Ballater, A splendid 
morning. We drove off at once, Beatrice, Leopold, 
an 1 I in one carriage, and reached dear Balmoral 
safely at a quarter to nine a.m. 

Felt as though all had been a dream, and that 
it was hardly possible we should have been only 
last night at Dunrobin, and dined there. 




# 



cB^ 



( 209 ) 



Dr. Norman Macleod. 



-a 



[J^farch, 1873. — I am anxious to put on record 
all my recollections of my dear and valued friend 
P". Norman Macleod, who has been taken from 
us, and whose loss is more deeply felt every day. 

I have therefore made the following extracts 
from my journal since the year 1861, when my 
heavy misfortune brought me into very close con- 
tact with him.] 

Balmoral, 
Sunday, May 11, 1062. 

Hurried to be ready for the service which Dr. 
Macleod was kindly going to perform. And a 
little before ten I went down with Lenchen and 
Affie (Alice being still in bed unwell) to the dining- 
room, in which I had not yet been. The ladies 
and gentlemen were seated behind me, the ser- 
vants, including Grant and some of the other 



■B 



-i 



r.: 



cfl-- 



( 2IO ) 



Highlanders, opposite. And never was service 
more beautifully, touchingly, simply, and tenderly 
performed. There was the opening prayer, then 
the reading from Scripture, which was most 
beautifully selected as follows : the twenty-third 
chapter of Job, the forty-second Psalm, the four- 
teenth chapter of St. John, some of the first verses, 
and then from the twenty-third verse to the end, 
and the seventh chapter of Revelations to the 
end. All so applicable. After this came another 
prayer, and then the sermon, entirely extempore, 
taken from the twelfth chapter of the Episde to 
the Hebrews to the thirteenth verse, also alluding 
to the tenth chapter, and occasionally turning to 
the Corinthians. The sermon was admirable, all 
upon affliction, God's love, our Saviour's sufferings, 
wiMch God would not spare Him, the blessedness 
of .suffering in bringing us nearer to our eternal 
home, where we should all be together, and where 
our dear ones were gone on before us. He con- 
cluded with another prayer, in which he prayed 
most touchingly for me. The children and I were 
much affected on coming upstairs. 



a 



[& 



■EP 



a- 



ft 



( ="' ) 



Monday, May 12. 

On coming home in the afternoon, Dr. Macleod 
came to see me, and was so clever, agreeable, kind 
and good. We talked of dear Albert's illness, his 
readiness to go hence at all times, with which Dr. 
Macleod was much struck, and said what a beauti- 
ful state of mind he must always have been in — how 
unselfish — how ready to do whatever was necessary ; 
and I exemplified this by describing his cheerful- 
ness in giving up all he liked and enjoyed, and 
being just as cheerful when he changed to other 
circumstances, looking at the bright and interest- 
ing side of them ; like, for instance, going from 
here to Windsor and from Windsor to London, 
leaving his own dear home, etc., and yet being 
always cheerful, which was the reverse with me. 
He spoke of the blessing of living on with those 
who were gone on before. An old woman, he 
said, whom he knew, had lost her husband and 
several of her children, and had had many sor- 
rows, and he asked her how she had been able to 
bear them, and she answered : *' Ah ! when he 
went awa' it made a great hole, and all the others 



^ 



r 3 



# 



m 



c& 



a 



m} 



It 



( 212 ) 

went throiij^h it."* And so it is, most toiiciiinQly 
and truly expressed, and so it will ever be with 
me. 

Balmoral, 
Sunday, August 24, 1862. 

At ten service was performed by Dr. Macleod 
downstairs, again very beautifully. His selections 
were very good : the hundred and third Psalm, 
part of the eleventh chapter of Isaiah, and then 
before his sermon, the fourth chapter of Philip- 
pians, sixth verse, which was the text : " Be care- 
ful for nothing ; but in every thing by prayer and 
olication with thanksgiving let your requests 
oe made known unto God," and part of the 
eleventh chapter of St. Luke, fifth verse : " Which 
of you shall have a friend, and shall go unto him 
at midnight, and shall say unto him, Friend, 
lend me three loaves } " As usual, it made a deep 
impression. 

After dinner, in the evening, I went over to 

* I since hear that this poor woman was not personally known 
to Dr. Macleod, but that her remark was related to him by Dr. 
Black, his predecessor in the Barony Parish, Glasgow. Her 
words were : " When he was ta'en, it made sic' a hole in my 
heart that a' other sorrows gang lichtly through." 



f& 



■ff 



ft 



[& 



( 213 ) 

Mrs. Bruce's room, and there Dr. Macleod joined 
us, and was so kind, so comforting, and so cheering. 
He expressed great admiration of my dearest 
Albert's statue (the cast of which was standing in 
the vestibule below). His eyes were full of tears, 
and he said his loss was felt more and more. I 
showed him a drawing of the mausoleum, and he 
said, " Oh ! he is not there," which is so true ; 
and again, when admiring the photograph of the 
reclining statue by Marochetti, he added, " But I 
think he is more like the statue below," which is 
a beautiful and a true idea. He looks so truly at 
the reality of the next life. 



•a 



-ff 



^ 



Sunday, May 24, 1863. 

My poor birthday ! 

At a quarter past ten service was performed by 
Dr. Macleod. All the children but Baby there. 
He read the ninetieth and hundred and third 
Psalms ; part of the twenty-fourth chapter of St. 
Matthew, ninth verse: "All hail." His sermon 
very fine, but he read it, not having had time to 
prepare one by thinking the subject over, or even 
by the help of mere notes. I saw him in the 
evening, and he was most kind and sympathising. 



J 



m 



rf=^ 






■a 



c& 



( 214 ) 



Sunday, October g, 1 864. 

At four, went to kirk with Lenchen and 
Augusta Stanley. Dr. Macleod performed the 
service admirably, and gave us a very striking ser- 
mon, all extempore, and appealing very strongly 
to the people's feelings. Saw good Dr. Macleod 
afterwards, and was much upset in talking to 
him of my sorrows, anxieties, and overwhelming 
cares ; and he was so kind and sympathising, so 
encouraging and full of that /ai't/i and /iqpe which 
alone can comfort and sustain the broken heart. 
In his sermon he spoke of there being peace vnt fl- 
out happiness^ and happiness without peace, which 
is so true. 

Balmoral, 
Sunday, June 11, 1865. 

At twelve, went (a great effort) to the kirk 
with the girls and the Duchess of Athole. I had 
only been once at the end of our stay last year in 
October, in the afternoon, and it made me very ner- 



# 



h 



■a 



a- 



( 215 ) 

vous. Still, as no one expected me to go, it was 
better so. Dr. Macleod performed the service 
most impressively. His sermon was from i Thessa- 
lonians iv. lo. No one reads the Bible better than 
he does, and his prayers were most beautiful. In 
the one for me, which he always words so expres- 
sively and touchingly, he prayed for Alix and her 
dear babe very beautifully. The singing and the 
whole service brought tears to my eyes. I felt 
so alone ! All reminded me of former blessed- 
ness. 



ft 



.. 






Balmoral, 
Saturday, October 14, 1865. 

After dinner Dr. Macleod gave us a long 
account of that dreadful Dr. Pritchard,* and his 
interviews with him. Never in his life had he 
seen anything so dreadful as this man's character 
and his wonderful untruthfulness. 

Dr. Macleod afterwards came upstairs, and 
read to Lenchen and me out of Burns most 
beautifully. 

• He had poisoned his wife and his wife's mother, and 
Dr. Macleod attended him in prison. 



ff 



^- 



& 






mmmm 



[& 



II : 



( 

. 1 





-t3 



ta 



( 216 ) 



Sunday, Ociober 15, 1865. 

At twelve we went to the kirk, where dear 
Dr. Macleod performed the service more beauti- 
fully than I ever heard it. The sermon was 
touching, and most striking and useful. It 
touched and struck all. The text was from 
Genesis iii. 13: "And the Lord God said unto 
the woman, What is this that thou hast done ? " 

And then he showed how we all had a secret 
life which no one knew but God, and showed the 
frightful danger of living a life of deception till 
you deceived yourself, and no longer knew wrong 
from right. I wish I could repeat all he said, 
but it was admirable. Then in his beautiful 
prayers he brought in a most touching allusion to 
Lord Palmerston,* and prayed for him. 

* He was dying, and expired on October 18. 



tii 



a 



c& 



"~3] 



( 217 ) 



Balmoral, 
Sunday, yune 1 7, 1 866. 

We went at twelve to the kirk, and Dr. Mac- 
leod gave us a beautiful sermon from St. Mark 
ix. 38, etc. It was very fine, so large-minded and 
charitable, much against party spirit and want of 
charity, and showed how thoroughly charity, in 
its highest form, existed in our Saviour. 

. . . The Duchess of Athole and Dr. Macleod 
dined with me. He was so amiable, and full of 
sympathy ; he also suffers much from constant 
work and worry, and must go abroad for relaxa- 
tion. Told him how much I required it, and that 
I came here for it, and had had a hard fight for it. 
He said he quite felt this, and entreated me — " as 
you work for us *' — always to insist upon coming 
here. I said my dearest Albert had injured him- 
self by never giving himself enough rest ; an 
we spoke of the absolute necessity of complete 
relaxation occasionally, and of the comfort of it. 



{? 



^ 



■EP 



mmmm 



;> f 



iPPPiH 



mumm 



T 



II f 



!i 



l»^^.i. 



c& 



^ 



( =^18 ) 



-fl] 



Balmoral, 
Sunday, September 16, 1866. 

The church was very full and the atmosphere 
very close. Dr. Macleod preached admirably, 
especially the lattf - part of the sermon, when he 
preached extempore, and spoke of our respgnsi- 
bilities which made us work out our salvation. 
God wished us all to be saved, but we must 
work that out ourselves. And we might by our 
own fault not be saved. The first part was read, 
he having told me the night before that he felt 
nervous, and must read it. 

Balmoral^ 
Thursday, September 20, 1867. 

Good Dr. Macleod (who arrived yesterday, for 
two nights) came to talk to me for some little 
time while I was sitting out. He spoke most 
kindly, and said enough to show how shocked he 
was at my many worries, but said also that he 
was convinced of the great loyalty of the nation, 
and that I should take courage. 



-ff 



ifl 



-a 



( 219 ) 

On the next day, the 21st, he came to take 
leave of me, as he was going to India, sent by 
the General Assembly to look after the missions. 
He is only going for six months ; still, his life is so 
valuable that it is a great risk. He was much 
affected in taking leave of me, and said, " If I 
should not return, I pray God .0 carry your 
Majesty through all your trials." 



Balmoral, 
Saturday, October 10, 1868. 

Mr. Van de Weyer and good Dr. Macleod, 
who is looking ill, and rather broken, and with a 
long beard, dined with us.* 



Sunday, October 1 1 . 

All to kirk at twelve. Christian and Franz f 
sat in the Abergeldie pew. Dr. Macleod per- 
formed the service, and I never heard a finer 

• He had only lately returned frori India, 
t The Prince and Princess Christian of Schleswig-Holstein 
and the Prince and Piincess of Teck were on a visit. 



>& 



& 



F^ 






H 



^■vSi B 



'm% 












L 





a- 



( 220 ) 

sermon, or more touching prayer for me. The 
text, St. Luke ix. 33 : "' Peter said unto Jesus, 
Master, it is good for us to be here . . . not 
knowing what he said." 

Saw Dr. Macleod, who talked, as also last 
night, of /?idia, and of the disturbance in the 
Church. 

Balmoral^ 
Sunday y yune 6, 1 869. 

To kirk with Louise, Leopold, Baby (Beatrice), 
and Christian. Dr. Macleod (who arrived last 
night) performed the service, and admirably, 
speaking so much to the heart. The prayers were 
beautiful, and so was the sermon. It was so full 
of truth and simple good advice, telling us to act 
according to the spirit of what is told us, and 
according to what v/e felt was right. The text 
from I Peter iv. 21. Afterwards saw dear Dr. 
Macleod, whom I find a good deal altered and 
aged. He is Moderator of the General Assembly 
for this year, and spoke with much pleasure of 
the unanimity prevailing, and of the good feeling 
shown towards him ; and regretted much this 
Irish Church Bill. 



t&- 



a 



•ff 



"lllllMll MiftKl-wiii 



■ ff i W' i'iii > i f,j\ i | l U , »bi i» A» i| r iliip ^ i i |,, M i<ii i» iii ^ i ,^4 Ni . > . ^r-*^^ 



■a 



[& 



{ 221 ) 



ft 



Balmoral, 
Siutday, October T^, 1869. 

At twelve, went with our children to the kirk. 
Dr. Macleod preached a fine sermon, and gave 
us two beautiful prayers as usual. The text was 
from Matthew xxvi. 30. 

I saw Dr. Macleod before dinner. He is 
greatly alarmed for the Established Church of 
Scotland, as he fears that an attempt will be made 
to pull that down also ; though, thank God, there 
is no difference of form or doctrine there, and were 
this to happen, the Free Church and United Pres- 
byterians, with the present Established Church, 
would become one very strong Protestant body. 
I also asked him about Lord Lome, and he said 
he had a very high opinion of him ; that he had 
long known him, and had prepared him for con- 
firmation, that he thought very highly of him. 
and had a great respect for him, and that he had 
fine, noble, elevated feelincfs. 



^ 



# 



■p. PI ,.!..; -.1/). .,i 



ms 



npw 



''jm 



[& 



( 222 ) 



■a 



it 



m 



: 1-' 



m- 



St^iday, October 2, 1870. 

A very fine morning after a frost. The sun 
intensely hot. Dear Leopold breakfasted with us 
out of doors. Sat out for a short while. To the 
kirk at twelve. It was not so stifling. Dr. Mac- 
leod gave us such a splendid sermon on the war, 
and without mentioning France, he said enough 
to make every one understand what was meant 
(when he pointed out how God would punish 
wickedness, and vanity, and sensuality; and the 
chapters he read from Isaiah xxviii., and from 
Ezekiel, Amos, and one of the Psalms, were 
really quite wonderful for the way in which they 
seemed to describe France). It was all admirable 
and heart-stirring. Then the prayers were beau- 
tiful in which he spuke of the sick, the dying, the 
wounded, the battlefield, and my sons- in-law and 
daughters We all came back deeply impressed. 



# 



"«&.Mwe*fc^i^,3 



»i' W !» m)t >' i «*i»wwipiH>.- 



o 



4 



{ 223 ) 



^ 



1 



t. 



Monday. October 
Dr. Macleod came to wish me good-bye He 
yesterday again told me what a very high opinion 
he had of Lord Lome, how good, excellent, and 
sijpenor he thought him in every way, and the 
Whole family so good. 

Balmoral, 
June—, 1871. 

Dear Dr. Macleod was unable to come during 
my present stay here, having been unwell in the 
wmter. He has gone abroad to Ems. 



Balmoral, 
Sunday, November ^, I'^'j I ^ 

At a little before twelve, went to kirk with 
Baby and Janie Ely, for the first time after a very 
severe illness-a great pleasure to me who am 
so fond of going to the dear little church here 
Brown helped me up and down the steep stair* 
case, but I found no great difficulty. Dr. Mac- 



-J] 









c& 



^ 



"^ 



( 224 ) 

leod (who arrived yesterday evening at the Castle) 
performed the service, which he made purposely 
rather short for me. He gave us a beautiful 
sermon, the text from St. Matthew vi. 9 : " Our 
Father, who art in heaven ; " and he preached 
upon the great importance, as well as comfort, of 
car looking on God as a Father, and not as a judge 
or " magistrate," to use a homely phrase. He also 
gave an admirable explanation of the Sacrament, 
which he announced was to be given next Sunday, 
explaining that it was not a miracle, which people 
often consider it to be. Back by a quarter-past 
one, much edified. 

He came to see me before dinner. 



Monday, November 6. 1871. 

Had a long and satisfactory talk with Dr. Mac- 
leod after luncheon to-day again. 



-^3 



[& 



-a 



( 



225 



) 



Balmoral, 
Sunday, May 26, 1872. 

To kirk at twelve, with Baby and the ladies, 
etc. Dr. Macleod preached a very fine ser- 
mon, full of love and warm feeling, upon future 
life and hope. The text was from St. Matthew 
V. 9, " Thy kingdom come." But I was grieved 
to see him looking ill. 

After luncheon saw good Dr. Macleod, who 
was very depressed and looking very ill, and will- 
ingly sat down at my request. He said he was 
quite broken down from hard work, and would 
have to give up his house in Glasgow (where he 
has not a moment's rest), and his Indian mission 
work, etc. He feels all this m.uch, but it is unavoid- 
able. He did too much. He has never recovered 
from the effects of his visit to India. He is, however, 
going to America for some months, and has refused 
everything in the way of preaching and lectures. 
He talked much of a future life, and his certainty of 
there being a continuation there of God's educa- 
tional purposes, which had commenced in this world, 
and would work on towards the final triumph of 
good over evil, and the extinction of sin. 



IB- 



-* 



•Ugim 



a- 





1 



^ 



^ 



{ 226 ) 



Balmoral, 
Monday, May 27, 1872. 

Saw and wished good Dr. Macleod good-bye, 
with real regret and anxiety. Towards the end 
of dinner, yesterday, he cheered up, having hardly 
talked at all during the course of it 

Daltnoral, 
Sunday, June 16, 1872. 

We had come home at five minutes past eight ; 
I had wished Brown good-night, and was just 
going to my dressing-room, when he asked to 
come in again and say a few words to me. He 
came in, and said, very kindly, that he had seen 
Colonel Ponsonby, and that there was rather bad 
news of Dr. Macleod, who was very ill, in fact 
that they were afraid he was dead ! Oh ! what a 
blow ! How dreadful to lose that dear, kind, 
loving, large-hearted friend ! My tears flowed 
fast, but I checked them as much as I could, and 
thanked good Brown for the very kind vvay he 
broke this painful and most unexpected news to 



■J 



-^ 



[&-■ 



*"& 



( 227 ) 

me. I sent for and told Leopold, who was quite 
stunned by it, and all my maids. Every one was 
most deeply grieved — the Duchess of A thole, 
Janie Ely, Miss MacGregor, Colonel Ponsonby, 
and Dr. Taylor, who was so overcome as hardly 
for some time to be able to speak. The loss, he 
and we all felt, was quite irreparable. Dr. Taylor 
knew (which I did not) that he had been very ill 
for a week, and that he might die at any moment, 
and that the long and most admirable speech which 
he made in the Assembly had been far too much 
for him. That was on the 30th. Still we all 
hoped that rest would have restored him. How 
thankful I felt that I had seen him so lately ! 
When the Duchess came upstairs, we could speak 
of litde else. After she left, and I was aione, I 
cried very bitterly, for this is a terrible loss to me. 



Monday, June i 7. 

When I awoke the sad truth flashed upon me, 
which is doubly painful, as one is unaware of the 
reality on first waking. 

After breakfast, when I thought of my dear 
friend Dr. Macleod, and all he had been to me — 



-i 



i& 



Q « 



■S" 



tfi- 



a 



It ' 



( 228 ) 

how in 1862-63-64 he had cheered, and com- 
forted, and encouraged me — how he had ever 
sympathised with me, and how much I always 
looked forward to the few occasions I had of 
seeing him when we went to Balmoral, and that 
this too, like so many other comforts and helps, 
was for ever gone — I burst out crying. 

Yesterday evening we heard by telegraph from 
Mr. Donald Macleod (for the first news came from 
the Glasjrow telegraph clerk to Warren *) that his 
dear brother had died at twelve that morning. 

I telegraphed to all my children, and could 
think of nothing else. I try to dwell on all he 
said, for there was no one to whom in doubts and 
anxieties on religion I looked up with more trust 
and confidence, and no one ever reassured and 
comforted me more about my children. I re- 
member that he expressed deep satisfp.ction at 
hearing such good accounts of them. . . . And 
then he seemed so full of trust and gratitude to 
God. He wrote a beautiful letter to Janie Ely 
on his birthday (June 3), in answer to my in- 
quiries after him, of which I annex the copy. 
His words seemed almost prophetic! 
•' My own telegra|;'h clerk. 



t& 



& 



-a 



-j^iirtriNiiWir'ifl^ ■• 



ff 



[& 



( 229 ) 

June 3, 1872. 

Dear Lady Ely, — Whether it is that my head is empty 
or my heart full, or that both conditions are realised in 
my experience, the fact, however, is that I cannot express 
myself as I feeJ m "eplying to your Ladyship's kind — 
far too kind — r ;c, u Jiich I received when in the whirl- 
wind or miasma of /.^5sembly business. 

Thanks deep and true to you, and to my Sovereign 
Lady, for thinkinp; of me. 1 spoke for nearly two hours 
in the Assembly, which did me no good, nor, I fear, to 
any other. 

I was also to preach yesterday. As I have nice 
summer quarters, I much hope to recruit, so as to cast 
off this dull, hopeless sort of feeling. 

1 ought to be a happy, thankful man to-day. I am 
to-day sixty, and round my table will meet my mother, 
my wife, and all my nine children, six brothers, cisters, 
and two aunts — one eighty-nine, the other seventy-six ; 
and all these are a source of joy and thanksgiving ! 
V/hy such mercies to me, and such sufferings as I often 
see sent to the rest on earth } 

God alone knows ! I don't see hoiv He always acts 
as a wise, loving, and impartial Father to all His children. 
What we know not now, we shall know hereafter. Let 
us trust when we cannot trace. 

God bless the Queen for all her unwearied goodness ! 
I admire her as a woman, love her as a friend, and 
reverence her as a Queen ; and you know that what 
I say I feel Her courage, patience, and endurance are 
marvellous to me. (Signed) N. MACLEOD. 



l.-^^ 



-a 



^^ 



mm 



w 



a 



-a 






ft 



( 230 ) 



3. 



March iZj^ 

Dear Dr. Macleod likewist came to Balmoral, 
and preached there, on the following occasions : 
October 11, 1863, May 24, 1864 (my birthday, 
after his visit to the Holy Land), on May 27, 1867, 
and on May 29, 1869. 

When I last saw him I was greatly distressed 
at his depression and sadness, and instead of my 
looking to him to cheer and encourage me, I tried 
to cheer him. He said he had been ordered to 
give up all work, and to give up his houso at 
Glasgow, merely continuing to preach at the 
Barony Chnrch ; and that then they gave him 
hopes of a recovery, but it was not at all certain. 
He must give up the Indian Mission, which was 
a great sorrow to him ; and he meant to take the 
opportunity of resigning it in person, to say what 
he felt so strongly, though others might not '>e 
pleased. He meant to go to A7nci ka in August, 
merely to recruit his health and stren th ; and he 
had refused every invitation for dim rs, or to 
lecture or preach. He had not much i v)nfidence, 
he said, in his recovery, but he might be wrong. 
All was in God's hands. " It is the nature of 



-ff 



a 



fl- 



( 231 ) 

Highlanderc to despond when they are ill," he 
added. He hoped God would allow him to live 
a few years longer, for his children, and to be 
able to go on with " Good Words." He dwelt 
then, as always, on the love and goodness of God, 
and on his conviction that God w^ould give us, in 
another life, the means to perfect ourselves and 
to improve gradually. No one ever felt so 
convinced, and so anxious as he to convince 
others, that God was a loving Father, who wished 
all to come to Him, and to preach of a living 
personal Saviour, One who loved us as a brother 
and a friend, to whom all could and should come 
with trust and confidence. No one ever raised 
and strengthened one's faith more than Dr. Mac- 
leod. His own faith was so strong, his heart so 
large, that all — high and low, weak and strong, 
the erring and the good — coukl alike find sym- 
pathy, help, and consolation from him. 

How I loved to talk to him, to ask his advice, 
to speak to him of my sorrows, my anxieties ! 

But, alas ! how impossible I feel it to be to 
give any adequate idea of the character of this 
good and distinguished man ! So much depended 
on his personal charm of manner, so warm, genial. 



fl 



c& 



•-ff 



a- 



( 232 ) 

and hearty, overflowing with kindness and the 
love of human nature ; and so much depended on 
himself, on knowing and living with him, that no 
one who did not do so can truly portray him. 
And, indeed, how can any one, alas, who has not 
known or seen a person, ever imagine from de- 
scription what he is really like ? 

He had the greatest admiration for the beauties 
of nature, and was most enthusiastic about the 
beautiful wild scenery of his dear country, which he 
loved intensely and passionately. When I said 
to him, on his last visit, that I was going to take 
some mineral waters when I went south, he 
pointed to the lovely view from the windows, 
looking up the glen of the Dee, and said : " The 
fine air in these hills, and the quiet here, will do 
your Majesty much more good than all the 
waters." His wife, he said, had urged him to 
come, though he felt so ill. "It always does you 
good to go to Balmoral" she told him. He 
admired and loved the national music of his 
country, and wrote the following description of 
it, most kindly, as a preface to a book of Pipe 
Music published by my head piper, William 
Ross : — 



ft 



t& 



ff 



a 



a- 



-a 



( 235 ) 

THE BAGPIPE AND ITS MUSIC. 
By the Rev. Dr. Norman Macleoh. 

The music of the Highlands is the pibroch of the 
great war-pipe, with its fluttering pennons, fingered by a 
genuine Celt, in full Highland dress, as he slowly paces 
a baronial hall, or amidst the wild scenery of his native 
mountains. The bagpipe is the instrument best adapted 
for summoning the clans from the far-off glens to rally 
round the standard of their chiefs, or for leading a High- 
land regiment to the attack amidst the roar of battle. 
The pibroch is also constructed to express a welcome to 
the chief on his return to his clan, and to wail out a 
lament for him as he is borne by his people to the old 
burial-place in the glen or in the sainted Isle of 'Graves. 
To those who understand its carefully composed music 
there is a pathos and depth of feeling suggested by it 
which a Highlander alone can fully sympathise with ; 
associated by him as it always is with the most touching 
memories of his home and country ; recalling the faces 
and forms of the departed ; spreading forth before his 
inward eye panoramas of mountain, loch, and glen, and 
reviving impressions of his early and happiest years. 
And thus, if it excites the stranger to laughter, it excites 
the Highlander to tears, as no other music can do, in 
spite of the most refined culture of his after life. It is 
thus, too, that what appears to be only a tedious and 
unmeaning monotony in the music of the genuine 
pibroch, is not so to one under the magic influence of 



^ 



tB- 



W 



a- 



ft 



( 



-34 ) 




41 



Highland associations. There is, indeed, in every pibroch 
a certain monotony of sorrow. It pervades even the 
" welcome," as if the young chief who arrives recalls 
the memory of the old chief who has departed. In the 
" lament " we naturally expect this sadness ; but even 
in the " summons to battle," with all its fire and energy, 
it cannot conceal what it seems already to anticipate, 
sorrow for the slain. In the very reduplication of its 
hurried notes, and in the repetition of its one idea, there 
are expressions of vehement passion and of grief — " the 
joy of grief," as Ossian terms it, which loves to brood 
upon its own loss, and ever repeats the one desolate 
thought which fills the heart, and which in the end 
again breaks forth into the long and loud agonising cry 
with which it began. All this will no doubt seem both 
meaningless and extravagant to many, but it is never- 
theless a deliberately expressed conviction. 

The characteristic poetry of the HigJilands is Ossian, 
its music the pibroch ; and these two voices embody 
the spirit and sing the praises of " Tir na'm Beann, 
na'n Gleann's na Gaisgeach " (" the land of the moun 
tains, the glens, and the heroes "). 

I said I was sure he would rejoice to think that 
it was a Highlander who had seized O'Connor,* 
and he replied, " I was deeply thankful to hear it." 

* The young man who rushed up to my carriage with a peti- 
tion and a pistol in Buckingham Palace Garden on February 
29, 1872, and was seized by Brown. 



xi 



':\ 



a 



a 



a 



( 235 ) 

He possessed a keen sense of wit and great 
appreciation of humour, and had a wonderful 
power of narrating anecdotes. He had Hkevvise a 
marvellous power of winning people of all kinds, 
and of sympathising with the highest and with the 
humblest, and of soothing and comforting the sick, 
the dying, the afflicted, the erring and the doubt- 
ing. A friend of mine told me that if she were in 
great trouble, or sorrow, or anxiety, Dr. Norman 
Macleod was the person she would wish to go 
to ! And so it was ! One felt one's troubles, 
weaknesses, and sorrows would all be lovingly 
listened to, sympathised with, and entered into. 

I detected a sign of illness in dear Dr. Mac- 
leod's accepting, contrary to his ordinary usage, my 
invitation to him to sit down, saying he could not 
stand well ; and I afterwards heard he had com- 
plained greatly of fatigue in walking back from 
the kirk. I said I feared India had done him 
harm. He admitted it, but said, " I don't regret 
it." I expressed an earnest hope that he would be 
very careful of himself, and that on his return at 
the end of October he would take Balmoral on 
his way. 

When I wished him good-bye and shook hands 



113 



C& 



-^ 



a 



■^ 



I ' 



( 236 ) 



with him, he said, " God bless your Majesty," and 
the tears were in his eyes. Only then did the 
thought suddenly flash upon me, as I closed the 
door of my room, that I mis^^ht never see this dear 
friend again, and it nearly overcame me. But 
this thougiit passed, and never did I think, that not 
quite three weeks after, his noble, pure spirit would 
be with the God and Saviour he loved and served 
so well ! I have since heard that he mentioned 
to several at Balmoral that he thought he should 
never come there again. 

I will here quote from my Journal some part of 
an account of my conversations at Balmoral on 
August 24 and 25, 1872, with Dr. Macleod's 
excellent and amiable brother, the Rev. Donald 
Macleod, about his dear brother Norman : — • 

" He ( Norman) was a complete type in its noblest 
sense of a Highlander and a Celt, which, as Mr. 
Donald Macleod and I both observed, was pecu- 
liarly sympathetic, attaching, and attractive. I 
said that since my great sorrow in 1861, I had 
found no natures so sympathetic and so soothing 
as those of the Highlanders. . . . He (Donald Mac- 
leod) said, * I went to him for everything ; he 



q3- 



w 



a- 



-a 



( ^o7 ) 

was like a father to me (he is twenty years his 
junior) ! His indefatigable kindness to every one 
was unequalled, and his patience was so great and 
he was so good.' His acts of kindness to people 
whom he did not know were frequent and unknown 
even to his family. His sense of humour and fun 
was unbounded, and enabled him to win the con- 
fidence of persons of the greatest diversity of 
character. Mr. Donald Macleod thinks, however, 
that it was a mercy his dear brother was taken 
when he was, for that a life of ina'^tivity, and pro- 
bable infirmity, would have* been unbearable to 
him. ... His health had been unsatisfactory al- 
ready before he went to India, but, no doubt, that 
journey had done him great harm ; still he never 
would have spared himself, if he thought there 
was a work given to him to do. . . . His wife 
and children bore up wonderfully because he had 
taught them to look on the future state so much 
as a reality, and as one of such great happiness, 
that they felt it would be doing wrong not to 
rejoice in his joy. His faith was so strong that 
it held others in a marvellous manner, and he 
realised the future state and its activity, as he 
believed, in a most remarkable way. 



tfr- 



-EP 



a.'?ss8«i5BrM.'3iE;; 



cfi- 



ft 



( 23S ) 



Visit to Tnvf.rlochy, 1873. 



Tuesday^ September c), 1873. 

Got up at ten minutes to seven, and breakfasted 
with Beatrice at twenty minutes past seven. The 
morning was splendid. At five minutes past 
eight I left Balmoral with Beatrice and Jane 
Churchill in the landau and four (Brown on the 
rumble) for Ballaler, whither General Ponsonby 
and Dr. Fox had preceded us. We had our own 
comfortable train ; Jane Churchill came with us. 
Emilie Dittweiler, Annie Macdonald, Morgan, and 
Maxtead (Jane's maid) went in the dresser's 
compartment, and Francie with dear Noble,* with 
Brown next to me. After crossing the Bridge of 
Dun, where we were at half- past eleven, we had 
some cold luncheon, and by a quarter to one 
we were at Stanley Junction, where we left the 

• Another favourite and splendid collie. 



f& 



-ff 



■— & 





6^ 



' \i4ii^mmmsmifimmtM<i»- 



a- 



""B] 



( 239 ) 



main line from Aberdeen to the south, and turned 
into the Highland Railway. Here, alas! the 
distance became indistinct, the sky grey, and we 
began fearing for the afternoon. At one we 
passed the really beautiful valley of Dunkeld, 
catching a glimpse of the cathedral and the lovely 
scenery around, which interested Beatrice very 
much, and made me think of my pleasant visits 
and excursions thence ; then passed opposite 
St. Co lines, the Duchess's farm, by Dalguise, 
and saw the large Celtic cross at Logieraif, put 
up to the late Duke of Athole; then Pitlochry \ 
after which we passed through the magnificent 
Pass of Killiekrankie, which we just skirted in 
our long drive by Loch Tay and Loch Timtmet, 
in 1866. The dull leaden sky which overhung 
Diinkeld continued, and soon a white veil began 
to cover the hills, and slight rain came down. 

We passed close by Blair, which reminded me 
much of my sad visit there in 1863, when I came 
by this same line to visit the late Duke ; and I 
could now see the great improvements made at 
the Casde. From here the railway (running almost 
parallel with the road by which we went so happily 
from Dalwhiniiie the reverse way in 1861) passes 



ta 



& 



t& 




•^ 



( M:> ) 



DaLnaspidal Station — a very lonely spot — then up 
Drumouchtcr, with Lock Garry and Loch Eric/if, 
fine and wild, but ten'-ibly desolate and devoid of 
woods and habitations, and so veiled by mist and 
now beating rain as to be seen to but very litde 
advanta'iie. Next coiner Daliuhiunie Station, near 
the inn where we slept in i8C., having ridden 
over from Balmoral to Glen Fishie, and thence 
down by Neivlon More ; consequently, the dis- 
tance acro'-s the hill is comparatively nothing, 
though, to avoid posting in uncertain weather, we 
had to come all this way round. At thirty-five 
minutes past two we reached Kins^ussie. The 
station was decorated with flowers, heather, and 
flags, and the Master of Lovat (now Lord Lieu- 
tenant of Inverness-shire) and Cluny Macpherson 
(both of course in kilts) were there. We waited 
till all our things were put into our carriage, and 
then got out, in heavy rain at that moment. We 
three went in the sociable, General Ponsonby 
and Brown on the box, IJr. Fox and my maids 
in the waggonette, the other maids and Francie 
with the dog and the remainder following in two 
other carriages. We pass'd through the village 
of Kingussie, where there were two triumphal 



I'X 



43 



[& 



( 241 ) 

arches and decorations, and some of Cluny's men 
drawn up, and then turned sharp to the left up 
amongst the hills, through the very poor long vil- 
lage of Newton More (which Annie Macdonald, 
whose late husban:' came from there, had never 
seen, but which we\\2i6. driven through in 1861), 
and on amongst desolate, wild, heathery moors. 
The road skirts the Spey, which meanders through 
a rich green valley, hills rising grandly in the 
distance and on e'ther side. We passed the rock 
of Craig Dhu, and a castle amongst trees, where 
there was an arch, and the owner and his family 
standing near it, and where a nosegay was pre- 
sented to me. Next we came to Cluny Castle, at 
the gate of which stood Mrs. Macpherson with 
ner family. We stopped after we had gone past, 
and she came and presented me with a nosegay. 

Froui here the road was known to me, if I 
can call going once to see it in 1S47 knowing it. 
Very few inhabitants, and not one village after 
Ncivton More, only miserable little cottages and 
farmhouses, with a few people, all very friendl) , 
scattered about here and there. We changfeci 
horses first at Laggan Bridge, having crossed the 
Spey over a large stone l)ridge, which I well 



IB- 



■ff 



_A ^ ' — 



a-- 



ft 



242 ) 



remember ; it is near StratJimashie. Here we 
stopped a few minutes ; and a little girl presented 
me with a nosegay, and the innkeeper gave Brown 
a bottle with some wine and a glass. We weic 
preceded the whole way by the postmaster of 
Banavie, who supplied the horses ; he was called 
McGregor, and wore a kilt. \Vc had only a pair 
of horses all alon^^^ and after the first stage — 
excellent ones. The roads admirable — hardly any 
hills, though we drove through such a hilly, wild 
coimtry. The rain had ceased, and only occa- 
sional showers came on, which did not prevent 
our seeing the verj' grand scenery, with the high 
finely pointed and serrated moimtains, as we 
drove along. Shortly after changing horses we 
left the river and came to the beautiful Loch 
Laggan, seven miles in length, along which the 
drive goes under birch, mountain-ash laden with 
bright berries, oak, alders, in profusion, and is 
really beautiful. I was quite pleased to see the 
loch again after twenty-five years — recognised it 
and admired its beauty, with the wooded promon- 
tories, its little bays, and its two litde islands, its 
ferry (the only communication to the other side), 
and the noble hills, the two Ben Alders, 



f& 



# 



iB-- 



-a 



( 243 ) 

We stopped, soon after passing the ferry, in a 
very secluded spot at five, and had our (made) tea 
in the carriage, which was very refreshing. We 
at length came opposite Ardverikie, which I so 
well remember, recalling and relating, as we now 
drove along, many of the incidents of our month's 
stay there, which was as wet as this day. Sir 
John Ramsden, who has bought the property, was 
standing with some other people by the roadside. 
At the head of the loch is Moy Lodge, a pretty 
little place in the style of Ar/iverikie, at which 
Mr. Ansdell, the artist, is staying. A little beyond 
this we changed horses at iMoy (only a single 
house), and drove along through Glen Spean, 
which is very fine and grand in some parts, the 
road looking down upon the rapid, rushing, gush- 
ing river, as it whirls along imbedded in rocks 
and overhung with wood, while high ranges of 
hil'.s, fine and pointed in shape, are seen in the dis- 
tance rising peak upon peak. Along this road I had 
driven, but I had forgotten it. Before coming to the 
Bridge of Roy Inn, we saw some of the celebrated 
Parallel Roads quite distinctly, which are more 
clearly seen farther on, and which are very interest- 
ing to all geologists as being supposed to mark 



^ 



n I 



■^ 



ifl-^— 



■-ft 



( 244 ) 



the beaches of an inland lake, which was pent 
back by a great glacier in Glen Spean, and sub- 
sided to different levels, as the glacier sank or 
broke away at three successive periods. 

Tlie rain ceased, and we walked a little before 
coming to the Bridge of Roy, where we changed 
horses for the last time, and directly afterwards 
passed a triumphal arch with heather and inscrip- 
tions, pipers playing, etc., and Highlanders as well 
as many other people drawn up, but we unfortu- 
nately drove past them too quickly. There was an 
inscription in Gaelic on one side, and on the other 
" Loyal Highlanders welcome their Queen." The 
papers say that it was put up by Mrs. McDonell 
of Keppoch. 

About three miles farther on we reached Spean 
Bridge, and it was already getting dark. Here 
there is only an inn, and Lord and Lady Abinger 
and their tenantry met us. Lord Abinger said 
he had been requested to express the people's 
thanks for my honouring their country with a 
visit, and his little girl presented me with a 
large nosegay in the name of the tenantry. We 
then drove on through rather desolate moors, and 
the rain began to fall again very heavily. It be 



g-^- 



.^nb 



Hli^^&L.', 



,i-"<^.>: 



a- 



a 



( 2.;5 ) 

came quite dark, and we could just descry moun- 
tains under which we drove. At ten minutes past 
eight we arrived at Inverlochy, entering by a 
lodge, which was lit up and looked cheery 
enough. The house is entered through a small, 
neat-looking hall, and I have three nice rooms 
upstairs, with the maids close by, and Beatrice and 
Morgan also, just at the other side of the passage. 
My sitting-room is very nice. It was nine before 
we got to dinner, which I took with Beatrice and 
Jane, Brown waiting on us as well as Cannon* (the 
footman). The drawing-room is a large, rather 
handsome and well -furnished room. We soon 
went up to our rooms, and all were glad to go 
to bed. 

Inverlochy Castle, 
Wednesday, September lo. 

Mist on all the hills, and continuous rain ! Most 
disheartening, but the views from the house beau- 
tiful, especially from my sitting room, which has a 
bow-window, with two small ones on either side, 
looking towards Ben Nevis (which is close in front 

• He left my service in 1879. 



t& 



r3 



JiiC 



^ 



( 246 ) 

of it), and commands a lovely view of /vr/ Wt/- 
liam (farther to the right), and of Loch Litinhe, 
etc., a portion of Loch Eil (pronounced Loch Eel) 
which runs up a long way, nearly twelve miles, 
with the fine MoidoTt range, close to Glen Finnan, 
as a background ; and this, with Banavie and the 
hotel, close to the Caledonian Canal, is distinctly 
seen from the other window. This very pretty little 
room does not open into any other ; next to it b 
Emilje Dittweiler's, next to that my dressing-room, 
and Annie's room, all narrow and long, and next 
again is a really large and also long room, my 
bedroom, in which I had my own bed, which has 
been to Siuitzcrland, Invcrlrossachs, Sandritioham, 
and Baden. Downstairs is the dining-room, a 
good- sized room (in which the gentlemen dine), 
also the drawing-room, and a small library, in 
which we take our meals. No room in the house 
opens into another. Though some of the bed- 
rooms are larger than those at Invertrossachs, the 
servants are not so well off. After breakfast 
(which, as well as luncheon, Beatrice and I always 
took alone) at half-past nine, went upstairs again 
and looked at Brown's room, which is a few steps 
lower than mine, in fact, only a very small bath- 



ft 



^■ 



■ff 



c& 



a 



i 



( 247 ) 

room. Beatrice is just opposite where I am, or 
rather round the corner. Jane Churchill and the 
two gentlemen, upstairs, have also good rooms. As 
the rain did not cease, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, 
and I walked out in the grounds to the stables, 
which we looked at, then out at the lodge and as 
far as the farm, where, however, no beasts were at 
the time, and on coming home we went through the 
house and kitchen, servants' hall, etc., and were in 
at a quarter to one. There were snort gleams of 
sunshine which lit up the splendid scener>', and I 
sketched from my window looking up to Banavie. 
Played with Beatrice on the piano. The day 
seemed better, but again and again the sunshine 
was succeeded by heavy showers ; still we deter- 
mined to go out So at twenty minutes to five we 
three started in the sociable, Brown on the box, 
with a pair of horses and a postilion who drove 
extremely well. We drove past the distillery (be- 
tween this and Fort William), then turned to the 
right over the suspension bridge to Banavie, about 
a mile farther, where there is a good hotel, quite 
close to the Cakdonian Canal, which we crossed 
by a bridge, and drove tiirough Corpach, a very 
small village, where the horses made a halt and 



CU 



□- 



w 






[fl 



-93 



( 248 ) 

turned another way, and Brown said nearly put 
us into a ditch ! but we soon got all right again, 
having to go on a little way to turn. We went 
along the upper part of Loch Eil, the sea loch, 
on which Fort William stands It is very narrow 
at first, and then widens out into a large broad 
loch as you approach the head of it, beyond which 
is the very fine range of the Moidart Hills, high 
and very serrated and bold. These are close to 
Glen Finnan. The road is excellent and not hilly, 
though it skirts the hills the whole time and is 
very winding, with much wood, so that you drive 
1 good deal under trees, ash, oak, alder, and the 
mountain ash which is now laden with red berries. 
The bright heather, growing in tufts of the 
richest colour mixed with a great deal of high tall 
bracken which is beginning to turn, has a lovely 
effect. Here and there were some very poor 
little huts, most miserable, of stone, wretchedly 
thatched with moss and grass, and weeds growing 
on the roofs, very dirty and neglected looking, the 
little fields full of weeds choking the corn, and 
neglected bits of garden, bushes antl brambles 
growing into the very window ; and yet generally 
the people who looked most poor had a cow I 



^ 



--EP 



[fl- 



"fi-1 



( 249 ) 

We passed Fassi'fern, which belong^^d to the 
father of the Colonel Ccmeron killed at Quatre 
Bnxs, now merely a farmhouse, and surrounded 
by fine trees. 1 think the drive to near the head 
of the loch must have been nearly ten miles! It 
was a beautiful drive, in spite of the frequent very 
heavy showers of rain. 

We came home at twenty minutes to eight. 
Good accounts of Leopold, but the weather has 
been bad. Dined as yesterday Played on the 
piano with Beatrice in the drawing-room, and then 
we went upstairs. 

Thursday, September 1 1. 

A pouring wet morning after a pouring wet 
night. Could not go out all the morning. It, 
however, cleared up in the afternoon, and became 
very bright and fine. Just as we decided to go 
out at a quarter past four, it began raining again ; 
however, as I left with Beatrice and Jane in the 
sociable, it cleared, and was very fine for some 
time. We drove out the way we came on Tues- 
day as far as Spean Bridge, and then turned sharp 
to the left along the Spean, under fine trees which 
abound in the valleys, and in view of scattered 



r3 



%^- 



e 



[&-- 



a 



IM 




( 250 ) 

birches which creep up the hills. We changed 
horses after passing High Bridge and an old 
neglected-looking churchyard, from which a funeral 
party was evidently returning, as we met "a good 
few " (i.e. a good many) farmers in black, and saw 
the gcite open and a spade near it. The road 
ascends to High Bridge, commanding a very fine 
view over the Ben Nevis range and the hills 
above Loch Lochy, of which, as we approached the 
Caledonian Canal and came to a lock, we caught 
a glimpse. We changed horses at Gairlochy be- 
fore crossing the canal, by the side of which flows 
the Lochy. The road ascends and goes along the 
western side high above the canal and river, c )m- 
manding a splendid view of Ben Nevis and the 
surrounding range of hills, " the Grarnpiafts." The 
road is, as all the roads here are, very good and 
most picturesque, winding through trees, with small 
and wretched but picturesque cottages with little 
bits of fields dotted here and there and with High- 
land cattle grazing about. It was again rainy and 
showery after we came to Gairlochy. We rime 
down again to Banavie, the hotel at which seems 
excellent, and were at home by a quarter-past six. 
Beatrice and Jane took some tea in the dining- 



^4- 



-^ 



a 



( 251 ) 

room, and then took a short walk in the grounds, 
coming in at seven. Wrote. It was still raining, 
but not blowing. Played after dinner on the piano 
with Beatrice, and then went upstairs, and Jane 
Churchill read. 



Ep 



Friday, September 12. 

A most beautiful bright simshiny day. After 
breakfast Mr. Newton, the artist, brought some 
lovely sketches. Sketched and painted, for the 
views are quite lovely, from my room. At eleven 
drove in the waggonette with Beatrice and Jane 
Churchill, General Ponsonby being on the box with 
Brown, to and through Fort William, which is 
three miles and a half from Inverlochy, passing the 
celebrated i5^;/ Nevis Distillery, which is two miles 
from here, and through a triumphal arch, just be- 
yond the bridge over the Nevis Diirn, by an old, 
very neglected graveyard, to the right, in which 
is an obelisk to McLachlan, a poet, and past the 
Belford Hospital, a neat building, built by a Mr. 
and Mrs, Belford ; then a little farther on, entered 
the town, where there was a triumphal arch, the 
fort, now private property, belonging to Campbell 



eg-- 



-B' 



i?K-;«i5^-i, .*5«l«i'^'. •• 



.%. '^\n% 



.^i< €^ 



v», 



^< 



w 







IMAGE EVALUATION 
TEST TARGET (MT-3) 



'^^O 



A 










^ 






II I.I 



11^ 



B 12.0 



us 
u 



6" 



L25 I U 1 1.6 



..T^ 



/. 



(?^ 



r 






^^.w^ 

'^i^% 



^jjji 



V 




Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 








V 



V 



>^.. ^.> 



^^^ 

^V^ 






23 WEST MAIN STREET 

WEBSTER, N.Y. 1-45SO 

(716) 872-4503 



<^ >^^ 



'■<*,'■ 







H 



I^^"^ 



I Wt r *-^nm'wv*w 



I'! 



(B 



-"-& 



( 



2i2 



) 



of Monzie. Here Glencoe came to take the oath 
to King William III. 

The town of Fori Williavi is small, and, ex- 
cepting where the good shops are, very dirty, with 
a very poor population, but all very friendly and 
enthusiastic. There are four churches (Esta- 
blished, Free Church, Episcopalian, and Roman 
Catholic). We drove on along Loch Eil (called 
Loch Linnhe below Corran ferry) a mile, and turned 
at AcJuntee, and down to old Invcrlochy Castle, 
which is nearer to Foj-t William than the new 
castle. We got out to look at the ruin, but it is 
uninteresting, as there is so little of it and literally 
nothing to see. About a quarter of a mile from 
the house we got out and walked ; home by half- 
past twelve. 

Friday, September 12. 

At a quarter-nast three, the day being most 
splendid, start:,d with Beatrice and Jane Churchill, 
the two gentlemen following in the waggonette 
(with Charlie Thomson on the box), and drove 
by Danavie, the same road we came home yester- 
day, as far as where we crossed the canal at 
Gairlochy — only, instead of going down to it, we 



4 



-c: 



L-J 



'-ft 



^CD 



a 



^ 



( 



^53 ) 



kept above, and went to the left : it is a beautiful 
road, coming in sight of Loc/i Lochy, which, with 
its wooded banks and blue hills, looked lovely. 
Leaving the main road, we turned into a beauti- 
ful drive along the river Arkaig, in Lochiel's 
property, reminding one very much of the Tros- 
sacks. 

As you approach Achnacarry, which lies rather 
low, but is surrounded by very fine trees, the 
luxuriance of the tangled woods, surmounted by 
rugged hills, becomes finer and finer till you 
come to Loch Arkaig, a little over half a mile 
from the house. This is a very lovely loch, re- 
minding one of Loch Katrine^ especially where 
there is a little pier, from which we embarked on 
board a very small but nice screw steamer which 
belongs to Cameron of Lochiel. 

He received us (wearing his kilt and plaid) just 
above the pier, and we all went on board the 
little steamer. The afternoon was beautiful, and 
Ht up the fir.e scenery to the greatest advantage. 
We went about halfway up the Loch (which is 
fourteen miles long), as we had not time to go 
farther, to the disappointment of Lochie), who said 
it grew wilder and wilder higher up. To the left 



a 



-ff 



1 






i' 









c& 



^ 



( 254 ) 

(as we went up) is the deer forest ; to the right 
he has sheep. 

Both sides are beautifully wooded all along the 
lower part of the fine hills which rise on either 
side, and the trees are all oaks, which Cameron 
of Lochiel said were the " weed of the country," 
and all natural — none were planted. A good 
many grow up all the hollows and fissures of the 
hills and rocks. Right ahead, where we turned, 
was seen a fine conical -shaped hill called Scoiir- 
na-nat, and to the left Glenmally, to the north 
Muir Logan, cind Giusach and Gera7'nan on 
either side. Before we came to the turning we 
three had our tea, which was very refreshing. 
I tried to sketch a little, but the sun shone so 
strongly that I could not do much. 

Mr. Cameron, who was with Lord Elgin in 
China, came and explained everything, and talked 
very pleasantly. His father had to let this beau- 
tiful place, and Lord Malmesbury had it for fifteen 
years. The Cannings used to go there, and I often 
heard Lady Canning speak of its beauties, and 
saw many pretty sketches which she made there. 
Thirteen years ago his father died, and he has 
lived there ever since. Alfred was there in 1 863. 



a 



ff 



M l i i i ' ii it i - jli inw .«i| ^ |»pi ji ^ - <m - n n^w m ^ " ( imn j ft i fw y ■i t niig»»i H), i»i u Wyi M ' " ■ ' 



a- 



"3] 



( =55 ) 

It was, as General Ponsonby observed after- 
wards, a striking scene. "There was Lochiel," 
as he said, *' whose great-grand-uncle had been 
the real moving cause of the rising of 1745 — for 
without him Prince Charles would not have made 
the attempt — showing your Majesty (whose great- 
great-grandfather he had striven to dethrone) the 
scenes made historical by Prince Charlie's wan- 
derings. It was a scene one could not look on 
unmoved." 

Yes ; and / feel a sort of reverence in going 
over these scenes in this most beautiful country, 
which I am proud to call my own, where there 
was such devoted loyalty to the family of my 
ancestors — for Stuart blood is in my veins, and 
I am now their representative, and the people are 
as devoted and loyal to me as they were to that 
unhappy race. 

We landed at the little pier, but walked over 
the small bridges (the carriages following) — on 
which a piper was playing — a few hundred yards 
to a gate (on the side ooposite to that by which 
we came), where we got into the carriages again. 
We drove through a beautiful road called the 
Dark Afi/e—d3irk from the number of very fine 



f& 







I 






5 

s ^ 



|:i 













^B^fl^B 


1 




i 




I 




















. 



•^ 



( 256 ) 



trees which overhang it, while on the left it is 
overshadowed by beetling rocks with a rich tangled 
undergrowth of bracken and heather, etc. The 
heather grows very richly and fully in these parts, 
and in thick tufts. We saw here the cave in 
which Prince Charles Fxlward was hid for a week. 
We came out of this road at the end of Loc/i Lochy, 
which looked lovely in the setting sun, and drove 
along the water's edge till nearly where we joined 
the road by which we had come. It is all Lochiel's 
for a long way — a splendid possession. 

And now came the finest scene of all — Ben 
Nevis and its surrounding high hills, and the 
others in the direction of Loch Lagg'iii, all pink 
and glowing in that lovely after-glow iAlpen- 
gliiken), which you see in the Alps. It was 
glorious. It grew fainter and fainter till 'the hills, 
became blue and then grey, and at last it became 
almost quite dark before we reached Banavie, and 
we only got home at a quarter-past eight. As we 
drove out I sketched Ben Nevis from the: carriage. 

Quantities of letters. The post comes in after 
eight and goes out at ten, which is very in- 
convenient. 

Our usual little dinner only, about nine. 



^ 



-a 



•ff 



lS"* 



-a 



( 257 ) 



Saturday, September \ 3. 

Another splendid morning, of which we were 
very glad, as we meant to go to Glencoe, which 
was the principal object of our coming here. Our 
nice little breakfast as usual. Sketching. 

At eleven we started, just as yesterday, Francie 
Clark* and Cannon going on the box of the second 
carriage. We drove through Fort VVilliam, on 
as we did yesterday morning by Achintee, and 
down the eastern side of Loch Eil, which was 
beautifully lit, the distant hills intensely blue. The 
cottages along the roadside here and there hardly 
deserve the name, and are indeed mere hovels — 
so low, so small, so dark with thatch, and over- 
grown with moss and heather, that if you did 
not see smoke issuing from them, and some very 
ragged dirty old people, and very scantily clothed, 
dishevelled children, you could not believe they 
were meant for human habitations. They are 
very picturesque and embedded in trees, with the 
heathery and grassy hills rising above them, and 

♦ My Highland servant since 1870, and cousin to Brown. 



^ 



W 



fef 



LJW" 






[ 








[& 



f& 



( 258 ) 

reminded me of Sivitzcrland. There were poor 
little fields, fuller of weeds than of corn, much laid 
by the wet, and frequently a "calvie" or "coo" 
of the true shaggy Highland character was actu- 
ally feeding in them. 

The road, which runs close above the loch, com- 
mands an excellent view of the fine noble hills on 
the opposite side of the loch. At Corran Ferry* 
(eleven miles) are seen across the loch Conaglen, and 
Ardgojir, Lord Morton's, at the entrance of a very 
fine glen. He has bought a large property in these 
parts, which formerly belonged to the Macleans. 
South of Corran Ferry the loch is called Loch 
Liunhe, and the road turns inland westwards, soon 
after passing up along the shore of Loch Leven, 
which is, in fact, also an arm of the sea. After 
three miles we passed a few cottages called Onich, 
the high hills of Glencoe beginning already to show. 
All was so bright and green, with so much wood, 
and the loch so calm, that one was in perpetual 
admiration of the scenery as one went along. 
Four miles more from Corran Ferry brought 
us to Ballachuhsh at a little before one o'clock. 
.The situation of the hotel — the large one — on the 

* Here Alfred got his very favourite Skye terrier Corran. 



a 



-Hi 



s- 



ft 



> 



( 259 ) 



opposite side, at the foot of the hills close to the 
ferry, is extremely pretty. There was a smaller 
and less handsome inn on the north side, by which 
we had come. Here we got out. after all our things 
— cloaks, bags, luncheon baskets, etc. — had been 
removed from the carriage, which we had to 
leave, and walked down to the boat. I'he small 
number of people collected there were very quiet 
and well behaved. Beatrice and Jane Churchill 
and I, with General Ponsonby and Brown, got 
into the boat, and two Highlanders in kilts rowed 
us across to the sound of pipes. On the opposite 
side there were more people, but all kept at a 
very respectful distance and were very loyal. A 
lady (a widow), Lady Beresford, who owns the 
slate quarries, and her daughter, in deep mourn- 
ing, were at the landing-place, and one of them 
presented me with a bouquet. We got at once 
into two carriages (hired, but very fair ones), 
Beatrice, Jane, and I in a sort of low barouche, 
Brown on the box. We had a pair of horses, which 
went very well. The two gentlemen occupied the 
second carriage. The drive from BallacJiulish^ 
looking both ways, is beautiful, and very Alpine. 
I remember Louise, and also Alice, making some 



^ 



S 3 



--ff 



Pi 



fl- 



it 



■"~B] 



^ 



( 260 ) ,, 



sketches from here when they went on a tour 
in 1^65. . , 

We went on, winding under the high green 
hills, and entered the village of Ballachulish, 
where the slate quarries are, and which is in- 
habited by miners. It was very clean and tidy — 
a long, continuous, straggling, winding street, 
where the poor people, who all looked ver j clean, 
had decorated every house with (lowers and 
bunches or wreaths of heather and red cloth. 
Emerging from the village we entered the Pass 
of Glcncoe, which at the opening is beautifully 
green, with trees and cottages dotted about along 
the verdant valley. There is a farm belonging 
to a Mrs. MacDonald, a descendant of one of 
the unfortunate massacred Mac Donalds. The 
Cona flows along the bottom of the valley, with 
green "haughs," where a few cattle are to be 
seen, and sheep, which graze up some of the 
wildest parts of this glorious glen. A sharp turn 
in the rough, very winding, and in some parts 
precipitous road, brings you to the finest, wildest, 
and grandest part of the pass. Stern, rugged, 
precipitous mountains with beautiful peaks and 
rocks piled high one above the other, two and 



-ff 



a 



c& 



"^-Q: 



( 26' ) 



three thousand feet high, tower and rise up to the 
heavens on either side, without any signs of habi- 
tation, except where, halfway up the pass, there 
are some trees, and near them heaps of stones 
on either side of the road, remains of what once 
were homes, which tell the bloody, fearful tale of 
woe. The place itself is one which adds to the 
horror of the thought that such a thing could 
have been conceived and conunittcd on innocent 
sleeping people. How and whither could they 
fly? Let me hope that William III. knew nothing 
of it. . ^ 

To the right, not far on, is seen what is called 
Ossians Cave ; but it must be more than a thou- 
sand feet above the glen, and one cannot imagine 
how any one could live there, as they pretend that 
Ossian did. The violence of the torrents of snow 
and rain, which come pouring down, has brought 
quantities of stone with them, which in many parts 
cover the road and make it very rough. It reminds 
me very much of the Devil's Bridge, St. Golhard, 
and the Goschenen Pass, only that is higher but 
not so wild. When we came to the top, which is 
about ten miles from BallachuUsh, we stojjped 
and got out, and we three sat down under a low 



-EP 



43- 



-^? 



„,«- 



t^^-^im 



a 




ft 



( 262 ) 

wall, just below the road, where we had a splendid 
view of those peculiarly fine wild-looking peaks, 
which I sketched. ' . 

Their Gaelic names are A^a tri Pcathraichean 
{the Three Sisters), but in English they are often 
called " Faith, Hope, and Charity!' 

We sat down on the gras (we three) on our 
plaids, and had our luncheon, served by Brown 
and Francie, and then I sketched. The day was 
most beautiful and calm. Here, however — here, 
in this complete solitude, we were spied upon 
by impudently inquisitive reporters, who followed 
us everywhere ; but one in particular (who writes 
for some of the Scotch papers) lay down and 
watched with a telescope and dodged me and 
Beatrice and Jane Churchill, who were walking 
about, and was most impertinent when Brown 
went to tell him to move, which Jane herself had 
thought of doing. However, he did go away at 
last, and Brown came back saying he thought there 
would have been a fight ; for when Brown said 
quite civilly that the Queen wished him to move 
away, he said he had quite as good a right to re- 
main there as the Queen. To this Brown answered 
very strongly, upon which the impertinent indi- 



^- 



tr 



a 



a 



ft 



( 263 ) 

vidual asked, " Did he know who he was ? " and 
Brown answered he did, and that " the hi_L,diest 
gentlemen in England would not dare do what he 
did, much less a reporter " — and he must move 
on, or he would give him something more. And 
the man said, " Would he dare say that before 
those other men (all reporters) who were coming 
up?" And Brown answered "Yes," he would 
before "anybody who did not behave as he ought." 
More strong words were used ; but the others 
came up and advised the man to come away 
quietly, which he finally did. Such conduct ought 
to be known. We were there nearly an hour, 
and then began walking down a portion of the 
steep part. 

The parish clergyman, Mr. Stewart, who had 
followed us up, and who had met us when we 
arrived at Balliu/iuiis/i, explained the names of 
the hills, and showed the exact place of the dread- 
ful massacre. He also said that there were many 
Episcopalians there from the old Jacobite feeling, 
and also Roman Catholics. . 

There was seldom frost in the glen, he said, 
but there was a good deal of snow. 



-ff 



^- 



w 



1 \ 





rP- 



-a 



( 264 ) 



A short distance from where Ossian 's cave is 
shown there is a very small lake called Loc/i 
Treachtan, through which the Cona flows ; and 
at the end of this was a cottage with some cattle 
and small pieces of cultivated land. We drove 
down on our return at a great pace. As we 
came through Ballaclmlisn the post-boy suddenly 
stopped, and a very respectable, stout- looking old 
Highlander stepped up to ihe carriage with a 
Siiiall silver quaich, out of which he said Prince 
Charles had drunks and also my dearest Albert in 
1847, and begged that I would do the same. A 
table, covered with a cloth and with a bottle on 
it, was on the other side of the road. I felt \ 
could hardly refuse, and therefore tasted 3ome 
whisky out of it, which delighted the people who 
were standing around. His name, we have since 
heard, is W. A. Cameron. 

We drove to the same small pier where we had 
disembarked, and were rowed over again by two 
Highlanders in kilts. The evening was so beau- 
tiful and calm that the whole landscape was 
reflected in the lake. There is a high, conical- 
shaped hil!, the commencement of the Pass of 
Glencoe, which is seen best from here ; and the 



C^-.. 



ff 



«_-T/-' '•i;iiii.B,o)a'iR" til »>'¥'. vrr-Ati.ue-cj, -f,u i»'«i>'i,"'. 



■ .'■iTff»«"!','v^,«fl(liJ--««!(W, 



n- 



fb 



( 265 ) 

range of hills above Ay-dgour and Corran Ferry 
opposite was of the most lovely blue. The whole 
scene was most beautiful. Three pipers played 
while we rowed across, and the good people, who 
were most loyal and friendly, cheered loudly. We 
re entered our carriages, and drove off at a quick 
pace. When we were on the shores of Loch Eil 
again, we stopped (but did not get out) to take 
tea, having boiled the kettle. The setting sun 
cast a most glorious light, as yesterday, on Ben 
Nevis and the surrounding hills, which were quite 
pink, and gave a perfectly crimson hue to the 
heather on the moor below. The sky was pink 
and lilac and paie green, and became richer and 
richer, while the hills in the other direction, over 
Fort William, were of a deep blue. It was won- 
derfully beautiful, and I was still able to make, or 
at least begin, a sketch of the effect of it, after we 
came home at a quarter to seven, from Beatrice's 
window. 

Resting and writing. Leopold has had far ^ess 
fine weather for his excursion than we have had. 



— ff 



t& 



-EP 




km 



il 





cfi--- 



-^ 



( 266 ) 



Sunday t Septe77tber 14. 

It was dull, and there had been some rain, but 
It cleared, and the day was fine, though not 
blight. 

At twenty minutes past eleven walked out with 
Beatrice. We walked first to look at the kitchen 
garden, which is large, and has some very nice 
hot-houses with good grapes. From here we 
went out by the lodge, meeting not a soul, and 
past the farm, going down a road on the left to 
a small burn, over which there is a foot-bridge. 
Finding, however, that it or.'y led to a keeper's 
house, Brown advised us to return, which we ac- 
cordingly did, coming by the back and the stables, 
and in at ten minutes to one o'clock. Rested, 
wrote, and then read prayers with Beatrice, and 
part of Mr. Campbell's * sermon, which Beatrice 
was so pleased with that she copied it entirely. 
Luncheon as usual. Painted and hnished the 
view i joking towards Fort William. 

At five drove out with Beatrice and Jane 
Churchill in the waggonette. We drove past the 
* The newly appointed minister at Crathie. 



4^ 



-ff 



ft 



a- 



e 



-ff 



4 



{ 267 ) 

distillery ; and then just beyond the bridge, which 
must be very little over two miles from Inverlocliy, 
we turned off the main road. We drove up for 
four miles along the Nevis, a fine rapid burn rolling 
over large stones and almost forming cascades in 
one or two places, under fine trees with very steep 
green hills rising on either side, and close under 
and along the base of Ben Nevis, which rose like 
a giant above us. It was splendid ! Straight be- 
fore us the glen seemed to close ; halfway up we 
came to a large farm, the drive to which is under 
an avenue of ash trees. But there is no other habi- 
tation beyond this of any kind ; and soon after the 
trees become fewer and fewer, though still a good 
many grow at the burnside and up the gullies of 
the hills. Sheep were grazing at a great height. 
The road became so rough and bad that we got 
out and walked almost a mile, but could go no 
farther. We were delighted with the solemn^ soli- 
tude and grandeur of Gleji Nezls ; it is almost finer 
than Glencoe. There was no one when we first 
entered the glen, but as we walked back we met 
several people coming out to look. After getting 
into the carriage again, I stopped a little to take a 
rough sketch. 



w 



!lt«* 



I 



i; i 




[& 



^ 



( 268 ) 

The farm belongs to Mrs. Campbell o{ MoJizie, 
only daughter of the late Sir Duncan Cameron of 
Fasnfern, who owns a good deal of Ben Nevis. 
Every hill has a name, but I cannot remember 
them, though I have them written down by the 
keeper at Inverlochy. As it was still a little too 
early to go home, we drove as far as the Fort and 
turned back, coming in at a quarter past seven. 
Writing. The po.st comes in at a most inconve- 
nient hour, a little past eight. 

Dinner as usual. My favourite collie Noble is 
always downstairs when we take our meals, and 
was so good, Brown making him lie on a chair or 
couch, and he never attempted to come down 
without permission, and even held a piece of cake 
in his mouth without eating it, till told he might. 
He is the most "biddable" dog I ever saw, and 
so affectionate and kind ; if he thinks you are not 
pleased with him, he puts out his paws, and begs 
in such an affectionate way. 

Jane Churchill read. 



a 



-ff 



rit 



a 



■a 



( 269 ) 



Monday, September 15. 

The mist hung about the hills, but the sun 
struggled through. It was very mild and became 
beautiful. We decided to go up Glenfinnan and 
to lunch out. Painted and finished two other 
sketches looking up Loch Eil and towards Bana- 
vie, and then wrote, after which at a quarter to 
twelve took a short turn in the grounds with 
Beatrice. 

At twenty minutes to one started with Beatrice 
and Jane Churchill in the sociable (Brown going 
each day of course with us on the box), the 
two gentlemen following (with Francie Clark 
and Charlie Thomson), and drove past Banavie 
through Co^'Pach and up Loch Eil. When we 
had come to the head of the loch, the road turned 
towards the right, winding along through verdant 
valleys, with that noble range of Moidart before 
you, rather to the left. In one valley, which be 
came very narrow after passing a large meadow 
in which they were making hay, we turned into 
a narrow sort of defile, with the stream of the 
Finnan flowing on as slowly as an English river, 



•B 



-ff 



t& 



a 



i 



( 270 ) 

with trees and fir trees on the rocks, and unlike 
anything I had seen in Scotland, and then you 
come at once on Loch Shiel (a freshwater loch), 
with fine very high rugged hills on either side. It 
runs down twenty miles. 

At the head of the loch stands a very ugly 
monument to Prince Charles Edward, looking like 
a sort of lighthouse surmounted by his statue, 
and surrounded by a wall. Here it was that 
he landed when he was brought by Macdonald of 
Borradale — whose descendant, now Macdonald of 
Glenaladale, has a house here (the only habitation 
to be seen) — to wait for the gathering of the clans. 
When Prince Charlie arrived at the spot where 
the monument stands, which is close to the loch 
and opposite to Glenfinnan (the road we came 
going past it and on up a hill to Arisaig, twenty-five 
miles farther on), he found only a dozen peasants, 
and thought ]ie had been betrayed, a':d he sat 
down with his head in his hands. Suddenly the 
sound of the pipes aroused him, and he saw the 
clans coming down Glenfinnan. Soon after the 
Macdonalds appeared, and in the midst of a cheer- 
ing host the Marquis of TuUibardine (Duke of 
Athole but for his attainder) unfurled the banner 



^ 



w 



c& 



-—^-fi 



( 



2/1 



) 



of King James. This was in August 1745. In 
1746 poor Prince Charles was a fugitive hiding in 
the mountains on the sides of Loch Arkaig and 
Loch Shiel. As we suddenly cam^^ upon Lech 
Shiel from the narrow glen, lit up by bright sun- 
shine, with the fine long loch and the rugged 
mountains, which are about three thousand feet 
high, rising all around, no habitation or building 
to be seen except the house of Gicnaladak, which 
used to be an inn, and a large picturesque Catholic 
church, reminding one, from its elevated position 
to the right and above the house, of churches and 
convents abroad, 1 thought I never saw a lovelier 
or more romantic spot, or one which told its 
history so well. What a scene it must have been 
in 1745 ! And here was /, the descendant of the 
Stuarts and of the very king whom Prince Charles 
sought to overthrow, sitting and walking about 
quite privately and peaceably. 

We got out and scrambled up a high hillock 
off the road, where 1 lunched with Beatrice and 
Jane Churchill and then sketched, but did not 
attempt to colour. We walked about a little, and 
then came down to the road to speak to Mr. 
Macdonald of Glmaladale, whom General Pon- 



l« 



^ 



ff 



II 




ifl^ 




'"& 



^ 



( ^1^ ) 



sonby had been to speak to, and who had never 
seen me. He is a stout, robust-looking High- 
lander of about thirty and a widower. He is a 
Catholic, as are all the people in this district The 
priest is his uncle, and lives with him. He showed 
me some curious relics of Charles Iidward, An 
old fashioned, strange silver snuff " mull " which 
had been given by him to Macdonald's ancestor, 
with the dates 1745 and 1746 engraved on it, for 
at Borradalc Prince Charlie slept for the last time 
in Scotland', a watch which had belonged to him, 
and a ring into which some of his fair hair had 
been put, were also shown. 

This is the district called Moidai't, and from 
the hignest hills the Isle of Sky e is seen distinctly. 
Lord Morton's property comes up close to Loch 
Shiel, and to the right are Lochiel, etc., and Mac- 
donald of Glenaladales in front, at the head of 
the loch. The family used to live at Borradale 
near Arisaig, but acquired Glenaladale from the 
former Macdonalds of Glenaladale who emiirrated 
to Prince Edward's Island after the Forty- 
five. 

Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and Brown went up 
with Mr. Macdonald to the top of the monument, 



■ff 



[& 



( 



/ o 



) 



-^ 



but said the ascent was very awkward and diffi- 
cult. General Ponsonby had been into the church, 
and said it was very expensively and handsomely 
decorated, but we have since heard there are only 
about fifty people n the neighbourhood. We left 
this beautiful spot about ' dlf-past four, having 
spent two hours there. The evening was not go 
bright as on Friday and Saturday, and there was 
no after-glow on the hills, Ben Nevis having its 
top covered with mist, as it often has. The horses 
were tired, and went rather slowly. I observed a 
flower here, which I have not seen with us at 
Balmoral, viz., instead of the large white daisies * 
— " Marguerites," as the French call them, and of 
which such numbt^rs are seen in the fields in 
England — there is a large yellow one.f just the 
same in form, only the petals are bright yellow. 

The heather, as I before observed, is of a very 
full and rich kind, and, as we drove along, we saw 
it on the old walls, growing in the loveliest tufts. 
We met those dreadful reporters, including the 
man who behaved so ill on Saturday, as we were 

* Chrysanthemum Leticanihemum, White ox-eye daisy, 
■j- Chrysanthemum segetum, Yellow ox-eye or corn maii- 
gold. 



W- 



W 





s- 



( 274 ) 



coming back. We got home at twenty minutes 
past six. Had some tea. Wrote and put every- 
thing in order. All had been settled about money 
to be given, etc. Our last nice little dinner, which 
I regretted. Came up directly after and wrote. 

Tuesday, September 16. 

Had to get up by seven, and Beatrice and I 
breakfasted at a quarter to eight. The morning 
was fine. 

The real name of the place used to be Torlinic/y, 
which is the name of the " lochie," or " tarn," 
below the house, in the middle of which there is 
a little island on which there are ducks. The 
property, which is very large, sixty-four miles in 
extent, was purchased from the late Duke of 
Gordon by the late Lord Abinger, who began a 
house, but it was burnt down ; the present Lord 
built this one, in fact, only ten years ago, and added 
to it since. He has called it Inverlochy Castle^ 
after the old fortress, which is supposed to have 
belonged to the Pictish kings, but the present ruin 
is thought to date from the time of Edward \. 
The Marquis of Tilontrose defeated the Marquis 



ft 



f& 



& 



a- 



a 



( 275 ) 

of Argyle there In 1645, an incident described In 
Sir Walter Scott's " Legend of Montrose." 

At a quarter-past eight we left Inverlochy 
Castle, where we had spent very pleasant days. 
The gentlemen had gone on before. 

We drove to Banavie, where a good many 
people were assembled, and stepped on board the 
steamer which was on the Caledonian Canal. 
Here were Lord and Lady Abinger, whom I 
thanked very much for their kindness. I left an 
illustrated copy of my book and prints of Albert's 
and my portraits at Inverlochy for Lord Abinger. 
She is an American lady from the Sonthern 
States, a Miss Macgruder, and they have five 
children, of whom one only is a boy. They left 
the steamer, and we began moving. The steamer 
is called the " Gondolier." It is built on the same 
principle as the one we had on Loch Lomond, with 
a fine large cabin with many windows, almost a 
deck cabin (though it is down one flight of steps), 
which extends through the ship with seats below, 
open at the sides far forward. In this large cabin 
sixty-two people can dine. We remained chiefly 
on deck. We steamed gently along under the 
road by which we had driven from Gairlochy and 



c& 



T 7 



^ 



[& 



■a 



; ( 276 ) 

i 

Achnacarry, Lochiel's to the left or west, and 
Lord Abinger's to the right. Ben Nevis, unfortu- 
nately, was hid in the mist, and the top invisible, 
which we hear is very generally the case. 

We came to one lock, and then shortly afterwards 
to Gairlochy, after which you enter Loch Lochy, 
The Caledonian Canal is a very wonderful piece of 
engineering, but travelling by it is very tedious. 
At each lo:k people crowded up close to the side of 
the steamer. As the river rises from Banavie to 
Loch Oich (which succeeds Loch Lochy), the canrJ 
has to raise the vessels up to that point, and again 
to lower them frcm Loch Oich to Inverness. The 
vessel, on entering the lock from the higher level, 
is enclosed by the shutting of the gates. The 
sluices of the lower gates are raised by small wind- 
lasses (it was amusing to see the people, including 
the crew of the steamer, who went on shore to ex- 
pedite the operation, which is not generally done, 
run round and round to move these windlasses), 
and holes are thus opened at the bottom of the 
lower gates, thr jugh which the water flows till the 
water in. the lock sinks to the lowest level. The 
lower gates are then opened, as the water is on 
the lowest level, while the upper gates keep back 



■a 



J 



d 



[& 



-a 



( 2/7 ) 



the water above. The same process raises the 
ships in the lock which ascend. About five or six 
feet can be raised or depressed in this manner at 
each lock. (I have copied this from an account 
General Ponsonby wrote for me.) 

As we entered Loc/i Lochy, which looked beauti- 
ful, we saw where Lech Arkaig lay, though it 
was hid from us by high ground. The hills 
which rise from Loch Lochy are excellent pasture 
for sheep, but the lower parts are much wooded. 
After eight miles' sail on Loch Lochy we came to 
Loch Oich, which is entered by another lock at 
Laggan. Here Mr. and Mrs. Ellice (who is a first 
cousin of the Greys) were waiting, and came ovt 
board. They had wished me to get cut and drive 
round their fine place, Lnvergarry, to rejoin the 
steamer at the next lock, but I declined, preferring 
to remain quietly on board, though the process of 
going through the locks is slow and necessarily 
tedious. It is nervous work to steer, for there is 
hardly a foot to spare on either side. Mrs. Ellice 
went on shore again, having given us some fine 
grapes, but Mr. Ellice remained on board till the 
next lock, Ctillochy. A road much shaded runs 
along the side of the loch, and here we passed 



^- 



. rn 




f 



a 



( 278 ) 

the small monument by its side, put over the well 
into which a number of heads of some of the Mac- 
Donalds, who had murdered two of their kinsmen 
of Keppoch, were thrown after they had been killed 
in revenge for thi'- act, by order of MacDonald of 
the Isles. It was erected in 1812. We next came 
to the old ruined castle of hiver^arry, embosomed 
in trees, close to which, but not in sight, is Mr. 
Ellice's new house. He has an immense deal of 
properly here on both sides. The hills rise high, 
and one conically shaped one called Pen Tigk 
towers above the rest. At Ctdlochy Mr. Ellice 
left Mie steamer. Mr. Brewster, formerly Lord 
Chancellor of Ireland and nearly eighty years old, 
was standing on the shore here. Fiancie and one 
of the policemen got out with good Noble, and 
walked to meet us again at Fort Augustus. While 
we were stopping to go through one of the locks, 
a poor woman came and brought us a jug of milk 
and oat-cake, v/hich with their usual hospitality the 
country people constantly offer. 

After this, and at about ten minutes past 
twelve, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, and I went below 
and had some hot luncheon. The people from 
the locks looked down upon us, but it was un- 



cy- 



& 



-a 



fl- 



a 



( 279 ) 

avoidable. We had now reached Fort A itgusftis, 
where there was again some delay and ?. great 
many people, and where there was a triumphal 
arch. Here on this very day thirty-six years ago 
my beloved Albert passed, and he saw poor 
Macdonald the Jiiger here, and took a liking to 
him from his appearance, and, being in want of a 
Jager, inquired after him and engaged him. He 
was keeper to Lord Digby and Colonel Porter 
then, and brought some game for dearest Albert 
from them, and Albert was greatly struck by his 
good looks. He was very handsome, especially 
in the kilt, which he habitually wore. 

There had been a heavy shower, but it was 
over when we came up on deck ag^ain. We en- 
tered Loch Ness here. It is twenty-four miles 
long, and broad, the banks wooded, with many 
pretty places on them. We passed Iiivermorris- 
ton in Glen Morrision, the seat of Sir G. Brooke 
Middleton, formerly Grant property. (So many of 
the finest, largest estates in the Highlands have 
passed into English hands, chiefly by purchase, but 
also often by inheritance.) Foyers, the celebrated 
falls, which are much visited, could just be seen, 
but not the falls themselves. Everywhere, where 



■ff 



^ 



•ff 






a- 



te- 



( 



2S0 



) 



tlicie were a few houses or any place of note, 
people were assembled and cheered. 

Next, to the left comes the very fine old ruin of 
Castle Urquhart, close upon the Lochan Rocks, 
where there were again a great many people. The 
Castle has stood several sieges, and one in par- 
ticular in the fourteenth century in the reign of 
Edward I. It belongs to Lord Seafield (head of 
the Grants), who has a very large property here, 
and whose own shooting-place, Baimacaan, is up 
in the glen just beyond. The fme mountain of 
Mcalfoiirvonie rises above it. It is two thousand 
seven hundred feet high, but the peak alone is seen 
from here. I tried to sketch a little, but in vain, 
the wind in my face was so troublesome. 

At about twenty minutes to four (or half-past 
three) we passed Dochfoitr House, iMr. Baillie's, 
which I think stands rather low, and in which 
Albert passed this night twenty-six years ago. 
A few minutes more brought us to Dochgarroch, 
quite a quiet place, but where a good many 
people had assembled. We waited to see every 
one and all our luggage landed and packed in and 
off before we stepped on shore. It was an 

There must have been two or 



amusing sight. 



a 



■-tp 



< 



ft 



s^' 






( 23. ; 



-a 



three carriages besides ours. The last to drive oft 
was the one in which Morgan, Maxted, and Lizzie 
Stewart* got, with Francie Clark and Noble on 
the box. Mr. Baillie and Lady Georgiana, whom 
I had not seen for long, were at the end of the 
landing platform, as well as Mr. Evan Baillie and 
Mrs. Colville, their son and daughter. Two little 
girls put down bunches of flax for me to walk 
upon, which it seems is an old Highland custom. 
There is a small village where we landed. Lady 
Georgiana Baillie is quite an old lady, aunt of the 
Duke of Manchester, and grand daughter of the 
celebrated Duchess of Gordon. 

Beatrice, Jane, and I got into a hired (not very 
beautiful) open landau (on the rumble of which 
Brown sat, as in crowds it is much safer to have 
a person close behind you) with a pair of post- 
horses and a postilion. In the second carriage 
went General Ponsonby, Emilie Dittweiler (sitting 
next to him), Dr. Fox, and Annie, every available 
place being necessary. We were escorted by the 
7th Dragoon Guards, which was thought better 
en account of the great crowds in Inva'uess, 

• My second wardrobe maid since 1S79, a native of Bal- 
moral. 



•tf 



^ 



•ff 



■w 



^•^mm^^^mmmm 



,\,jejK^-f-r.', 



It 







a 



ty- 



( 282 ) 

where no Sovereign had been seen since my poor 
ancestress Queen Mary. 

The mixture of half state and humble travellinsf 
(we being in our common travelling dresses) was 
rather amusing. 

The evening was beautiful, and Inverness looked 
extremely well on the blue Moray Frith. We 
passed a magnificent building, which is the county 
Lunatic Asylum. We had to drive six miles to 
the town, through a small portion of which only 
we passed, and had to drive quickly, as it was late. 
The streets were full of decoration^ and arches, 
and lined with volunteers. Great order pre- 
vailed, and the people were most enthusiastic. 
The fine-looking old Provost was there, and 
the Master of Lovat, who walked up along the 
station with us. A great squeeze, which Brown, 
having a great heap of cloaks etc. to carry, had 
some difficulty in getting through. But everyone, 
including the dog, got safe in, and we travelled by 
treiin as before. We went the same way as last year, 
but never stopped till we got to Keith, where last 
time our door got wrong. After this, about six, we 
had some warm tea and cold meat, which was 
very refreshing. A fine evening. 



-a 



-ff 



--a 



poor 



cB- 



ft 



( 283 ) 

We reached Ballater at five minutes to nine, 
and started at once in the open landau and four, 
preceded by the butrider with the lamp. There 
were a few drops of rain, but very slight. At 
twenty minutes to ten we reached Balmoral 
safely, very thankful that all had gone off so 
well. 



-ji 



^- 



# 



ii M 1 ^toM T lW^tWOli m i rtn lW iiiMl^ Ml * IWI i i»^(l»<w«BM.i.»«fc l »»iMh%.>** " '««o'» f 



fl- 






( <>C'4 ) 



Home-coming of their Roval Highnesses the 

Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh, 

August 1S74. 



Saturday, August 29, 1874. 

At a quarter to two started in the landau and 
four with Beatrice and Lady Abercromby, Brown 
in full dress on the rumble. It was raining, so we 
kept the carriage shut, but there were decided 
symptoms of clearing, and by the time we reached 
Ballater the sun began to shine, and the rain 
ceased as I got out. 

The train with Alfred and Marie had already 
arrived, and Marie got out as I advanced. Alfred 
was already out of the carriage. I kissed them, 
and then, with Marie, Alfred, and Beatrice, got in 
again, the carriage being open, and it was very 
fine. Marie wore a brown travelling dress with a 



^■ 



'-ff 



t& 



a 



( 2§5 ) 

hat. When we reached the bridge we went slowly. 
The Ballaier com^2iX\y of volunteers, to the number 
of thirty (kilted in Farquharson tartan), were next 
it, and from here to the arch, and beyond it, stood 
all our people in full dress with their families, and 
all the tenants of the three estates with theirs, 
also the ladies and gentlemen. The pipers walked 
in front playing, and our keepers and others, who 
wore full dress, on either side (Brown remaining 
in his place on the carriage), followed by all the 
other people. 

In this way we proceeded through the arch up 
to Balmoral, just as when Helena arrived, only 
then there were fewer people. Leopold was in his 
carriage. We got out at the door of the Castle, 
and then Dr. Robertson proposed the health of 
Alfred and Marie, which was drunk by all with 
cheers. Then two reels were danced, after which 
we took Marie and Alfred to their rooms down- 
stairs, and sat with them while they had tea. 



tg- 



^ 



't^fnti 


r -1 


P" 


1 

! 


1 



a- 



m- 



{ =S6 ) 



Departure of the Prince of Wales from 

A.BERGELDIE BEFORE LEAVING FOR InDIA. 



Balmoral, 
Friday, September 17, 1875. 

Coming home from our drive at twenty minutes 
past sev^:n, we had passed Bertie's carriage in 
the Balloch Bute, but we heard no sound of a 
carriage when we went downstairs for dinner a 
little before nine, and Alix [Princess of Wales] 
had also not arrived. Their people having come, 
we consulted with Charlotte Knollys * what to do, 
and sent to beg Alix to come and order Bertie's 
things to be brought to the Castle. At length, at 
half-past nine, Bertie arrived, very hot, having 
lost his way and been separated from the others. 

* Lady to the Princess of Wales, eldest daughter of General 
Sir William Knollys, K.C.B., for many years at the head of the 
Prince of Wales's houseliold. 



a 



w 



i" ■ M rs- 'jf c^rt USE '^^ .' "t 11 



a 



a 



{ 2S7 ) 

He had got four stags (and had been lucky aho- 
gether), and he asked us to go to dinner. We 
accordingly sat down — Lenchen, Beatrice, Jane 
Churchill, and Lord Carnarvon. Christian had 
gone on to look after Bertie, but he soon returned. 
Only at ten did Alix arrive, and at ten minutes 
past ten, Bertie ; and we did not get up from 
dinner till half-past ten. All the ladies and 
gentlemen came into the drawing-room after 
dinner, and aU felt that this terrible parting was 
hanging over us. At eleven I took Bertie and 
Alix upstairs, and talked over various details of 
this anxious journey to India. Then it came to 
the saying good-night, and Bertie sent for Lohlein 
and Brown to come and take leave of him, I 
saw how that began to try him, and it grieved 
them. He shook hands with both, and I felt 
nearly upset myself when Brown shook him by 
the hand, and said: "God bless your Royal 
Highness, and bring you safe back!" He also 
wished my maids good-bye, who were standing 
there. Poor dear Alix seemed to feel it much, 
and so did I, as I embraced them both several 
times, and said I would go to see them off next 
morning. 



B- 



-ff 



[& 



! I 



II 



-a 



( 2SS ) 



Saturday^ September i8. 

A dull and rather raw morning. Breakfasted 
alone (as Beatrice was not quite well, with a sort 
of chill) at nine in the cottage. 

At half- past nine I drove off with Lenchen to 
Abergeldie. There we found all in considerable 
confusion. Bertie was out in the garden, where 
we waited a little while, and then I went up, and 
found poor Alix putting up her things in her bed- 
room — the little girls there — the maids not yet 
off. At length, at a quarter-past ten, they left. 
Dear Bertie wished all good-bye. Our ladies 
and gentlemen and all the people were assembled 
outside. Poor dear Beatrice was the only one 
absent. Christian had gone on before. Bertie 
shook hands with all ; I wished him every possi- 
ble success, and that God would bless and pro- 
tect him during this long and anxious journey to 
the East. It was very sad to see him drive off 
with Alix and the boys (the litde girls followed 
in another carriage), not knowing what might not 
happen, or if he would ever return. May God 
bless him ! 



^■ 



# 



LMiiJii-^iLa 



tfl- 



""^ 



( 289 ) 



Visit to Inveraray, September 1875. 



Tuesday, September 21, 1875. 

We had a family dinner at twenty minutes to 
nine. At a quarter past ten left Balmoral with 
Beatrice and Jane Churchill, Brown on the rumble. 
We reached Ballater by eleven, when we took 
the railroad. General Ponsonby and Sir W. 
Jenner met us there. Emilie, Annie, Morgan 
(for Beatrice), Francie Clark, and the footmen, 
Cannon, Charlie Thomson, and Heir, went in 
attendance, as well as Baldry and three men 
of the police. The horses (six) with Bourner, 
Hutchinson, and Goddard with the luggage, had 
gone on in advance. We started immediately, 
and very soon after lay down. We went steadily 
and slowly, but I did not sleep very well. 



B-- 



& 



ill 



I ! 



a 



a 



1 1 



IHI 



til 




( 290 ) 



Inveraray^ 
Wednesday, September 22. 

At eight we reached Tyndriuu, a wild, pic- 
turesque, and desolate place in a sort of wild glen 
with green hills rising around. Here we break- 
fasted in the train, Brown having had the coffee 
heated which we had brought made with us, and 
some things coming from the nice-looking hotel. 
The morning was beautiful, just a little mist on 
the highest hills, which cleared off. There are a 
few straggling houses and a nice hotel at this 
station, where we got out and where Lord and 
Lady Breadalbane met us, as this is his property. 
The day was beautiful. 

We got into the sociable (that is, Beatrice, Jane 
Churchill, and I) with a pair of posthorses, Brown 
and Francie Clark on the box, the two gentlemen 
and four maids in a waggonette following, and 
further behind the unavoidable lup'gagr' with the 
footmen, etc. The road lay up a broad glen, with 
green hills on either side, on one of which are 
Ifiad mines belonging to Lord Breadalbane. It 
was very windir\g, very rough, and continually 



f& 



-ff 



a 



a 



■a 



( 291 ) 

up and down, and we went very slowly. Looking 
back, behind Tyndrum was a fine range of hills 
which are in the forest of the Black Mount. 
Passed the entrance of a broad glen with many 
trees called Gloiorchy (the second title of Breadal- 
bane), and saw all along where the railway is being 
made. A small stream flows at the bottom. To 
the left we saw Ben Lide\ then as we descended, 
the country became more and more beautiful, with 
trees and copsewood sprinkled about, till we came 
to Dalmally, lying embosomed in trees, with Ben 
Cruachan and its adjacent range rising close be- 
fore us, with the bluest shadows and tints on all the 
heights, and the sky pure and bright with a hot 
sun, though a good deal of air. Looking back we 
still saw the other green hills from which we had 
come. 

As it approaches Dahnally the road goes under 
trees till you reach the inn, which stands quite alone. 
The church is beautifully situated at the bottom 
of the glen, and is surrounded by trees. There 
was no large crowd here, and the people behaved 
very well, Dalmally is thirteen miles from Tyn- 
drum. Four horses w^ere put on here to drag us 
up :Se first hill, which was long and high, and 



^- 



u a 



B 



t Mi 




11 



D_j" 



( 292 ) 

brought us in view of Loch Awe, which looked 
beautiful. Here the leaders were taken off. Loch 
Awe extends back a good way, and we could just 
see Kilchurn Castle, of historic celebrity, and the 
beautiful head of the loch with high hills on the 
right, and the islands of Innishail and Ardchone, 
besides many smaller ones. On the first-named 
of these is said to be buried an ancestor of the 
Argylls. The loch is thirty miles in length, and 
as it stretches out and widens the hills become 
much flatter. We drove quite round the head 
of Loch Awe, then passed Cladick, and here the 
ground became very broken, and high hills were 
seen in the background, towering above the nearer 
ones. Bracken with birch and oak, etc., grow 
profusely among the green hills and rocks, much 
as they do near Inverlochy, Loch Ell, etc. Here 
and there were small knots of people, but not 
many. About five or six miles before Inveraray, 
at a place called Crais-na-Schlcacaich, at the foot 
of Glen Aray, where the Duke's property begins, 
four of our own horses were waiting, and here 
dear Louise and Lome met us, looking pleased 
and well. Lome rode, and dear Louise got into 
her pony-carriage and drove after us. We soon 



a 



^ 



-ff 



^ l lliliWjI l liH W WjIlli W l j i 



ft 



c& 




a 



( 293 ) 

after came to an arch with a GacHc inscription — 
"Ceiid mille Failte do'n Bhan Rhighinn do 
Inerara" (A hundred thousand welcomes to the 
Queen to Inveraray). A very stout tenant's wife, 
Mrs. McArthur, presented me with a nosegay, 
which a child she held in her arms gave me. 

On we went along Glen A ray, the road as we 
approached Inveraray Castle being bordered on 
either side by trees. When we reached the gate 
there were two halberdiers, whilst others were 
posted at intervals along the approach, dressed in 
Campbell tartan kilts with brown coats turned 
back with red, and bonnets with a black cock's 
tail and bog-myrtle (he Campbell badge). With 
them were also the pipers of the volunteers. In 
front of the house ^he volunteers in kilts and red 
jackets, and the artillery volunteers in blue and 
silver, of whom Lome is the colonel, were drawn 
up, and a good many spectators were assembled. 
The Duke and Duchess of Argyll and their six 
girls were at the door : the outside steps are now 
under glass and made into a sort of conservatory. 

The Duke and Duchess took us upstairs at 
once to our rooms, part of which are Louise's ; 
very comfortable, not large but cheerful, and 



B-- 



W 



[fl- 




--a 



( 294 ) 



having a beautiful view of Lock Fyne. It was 
one when we arrived, and we hmchec' at two, 
only Louise, Beatrice, and Lome, in a nice room 
(in fact the Duchess's drawing-room) with tapes- 
try, at the foot of the stairs. Brown (who has 
attended me at all the meals since we came here) 
waited, helped by two or three of the Duke's 
people. After lunch we went into the large draw- 
ing-room, next door to where we had lunched in 
1847, when Lome was only two years old. And 
now I return, alas! without my beloved Husband, 
to find Lome my son-in-law ! 

In the drawing-room I found Lord and Lady 
Dufferin (who are staying here) as well as Sir 
John and Lady Emma McNeill. She is the 
Duke's only sister, and he a very fine old man (now 
eighty), who was formerly my minister in Persia. 
Went upstairs to rest and sketch the splendid y^/vZ- 
kinglass Hills, from the window of the little turret 
which forms my dressing-room. Then had tea, 
and at half-past five drove out with Louise and 
Beatrice by the lodge called Creitabhille, through 
part of the wood or forest where the beeches are 
splendid, as also the spruces, on past Ballacha- 
nooran, by the upper road, green hills, trees, oaks, 



^ 



-ff 



-^ 



a- 



-a 



( 295 } 

ferns, and broken ground all along, like at Loch 
Eil, past AchnagoiU, a little village lying close 
under the hill, to the Douglas Water, a small 
rapid stream. Here we turned back and went 
along this pretty little mountain stream, past some 
cottages and a small farm, and then came upon 
the shore of Loch Fyne, the drive along which 
is lovely. As we drove, the setting sun bathed 
the hills in crimson, — they had been golden just 
before, — the effect was exquisite. Looking up 
and down the shores, the view was lovely, and 
the reflections on the calm surface of the lake 
most beautiful. 

We drove back through the small town of 
Lnveraray, which is close to the gates of the 
Castle, and looks pretty from my window with its 
small pier, where we landed in 1847. and near to 
which there is a curious old Celtic cross. There 
are two inns, three churches, and a jail, for it is 
a county town. On coming home we walked a 
little In the garden close to the house, and came 
in at ten minutes past seven. Resting. Writing. 
Dinner at half-past eight in the room in which 
we lunched. The Duke and Duchess, Louise, 
Beatrice, and Lady Churciiill dined with me. 



w 



t& 



-ff 



a- 



ft 



( 296 ) 

Then went for a short while into the drawing- 
room, where, besides the family, which included 
Lord Colin, were Dr. MacGtegor, Mr. Donald 
Macleod, and Mr, Story (all clergymen staying 
in the house), and the following gentlemen: Lord 
Ardmillan (who was there for the assizes), Mr. 
Campbell, of Sionefield (Convener of the county 
of Argyll), Mr. and Mrs. Hector Macneal, of 
Ugadale, etc. Mr. Macneal showed me a brooch 
which had some resemblance to the Brooch of 
Lome, and had been given by King Robert 
Bruce to one of his ancestors. 



Thursday, SeptemOer 23. 

This sad anniversary when my beloved sister 
was taken from me, whom I miss so continually, 
returns for the third time. 

A fine morning. Breakfasted in my sitting- 
room at a quarter to ten with Louise and Beatrice. 
My sitting-room is generally Louise's bedroom, 
which had been specially arranged by her for me, 
and in the recess the Duchess had placed a picture 
oi Balmoral, copied from A. Becker's picture. This 
opens into a small apartment, generally used as 



c& 



-ff 



St! 



ft 



-w 



a--- 



-Bj 



^ 



V 297 ) 



Lome's dressing-room, in which my maid Annie 
sleeps and the two maids sit, next to which comes 
the bedroom, at the end of which is the nice cozy 
little turret-room with two windows, one of which 
looks on the loch with the very fine Ardkwglass 
Range in front, and the other on the front door, 
the bridge, and splendid trees. My dresser, Emilie 
Dittweiler, is next door to my bedroom, and 
Beatrice next to her in Louise's sitting-room. 

At a little after eleven I walked out with 
Louise and Beatrice along the approach, and then 
turned up through the wood and up the lower 
walk of Du7iaqtioichy the hill opposite the house, 
which is wooded nearly to the top, on which 
is a tower, and walked along under magnificent 
trees, chiefly beeches and some very fine spruces, 
that reminded me of Wiiidsoi" Park and Rcin- 
hardtsbrumi. We walked on some way, passed 
a well and a small cottage, where the poultry is 
kept, where there is a funny good-natured woman 
called Mrs. McNicholl, who kissed Louise's hand 
and knelt down when I came up, and said to 
Louise, when she heard I was coming, " How 
shall I speak to her ? " We went into the little 
cottage, where another old woman of eighty lives. 



ff 



>' * '»* >ll » l « i i>'- -iVAltlf ■.'* »■■'.•'■ 



■■BfcaStaisike. . 



, ■i;*mimimm»i6. v,'« '■ 



,jii*ii^'lii;y.).v^i'?^'^;'"^v? 



m 



[& 



a 



( 298 ) 

She looked so nice and tidy with a clean white 
mutch. We then walked down and came back 
along the river, which flows quite close to the 
house into the sea, and is full of fish. We were 
in at twenty minutes to one. Luncheon at two, 
just like yesterday. The day was dull, but quite 
fair and clear. Drawing and painting. 

At a quarter-past four drove out with Louise, 
Beatrice, and the Duchess, in my waggonette, 
driven by Bourner. After going for some distance 
the same way as yesterday afternoon, we turned 
into a wooded drive, leading to the G/en of Essa- 
c/icsan, where there are the most beautiful spruces, 
and some silver firs which reminded me in height 
and size of those on the road to Eberstcin, near 
Baden, and on by what they call the Queen's drive, 
made for me in 1871, past Lec/ikenvokr, whence 
there is a fine view of the loch and surrounding 
hills, Ben Ben, Ben Bute, etc. The road is very 
steep going down to the Curling Pofid and Black 
Bull Cottage ; then over Carlonnan Bridge down 
to some falls, and back along the approach to tii 3 
Dliu Loch, under the avenue of fine old beeches, 
which, joining as they do, almost form an aisle. 
Eleven, alas ! were blown down two years ago : 



t& 



ff 



a 



tfl- 



ft 



e. 



( 299 ) 

they were planted by the Marquis of Argyll two 
hundred years ago. You come rapidly upon the 
Dhu Loch, a small but very pretty loch — a com- 
plete contrast to our Dku Loch, for this is sur- 
rounded by green and very wooded hills, with the 
extremely pretty and picturesque Glcii Shira in 
the background, which is richly wooded. We 
drove along the right bank of the Shira River, 
up as far as the small farm of Drum Lee, most 
prettily situated on the hillside some way up, 
passing one or two other farms — one especially, a 
very strange old building. We took our (made) 
tea, and Elizabeth (the Duchess) greatly admired 
the convenient arrangement (viz. the bag into 
which cups etc. are fitted), and then drove back 
the same way and along the shore road. Home 
at ten minutes to seven. A charming drive, but 
there was a very high and cold wind. 

Louise, Beatrice, the Duchess of Argyll, Lord 
and Lady Dufferin, and Sir John and Lady 
Emma McNeill dined with me, as yesterday. 
Went again for a short while intc the drawing- 
room, where the Duke presented some other 
people — the sheriff, Mr. F. A. Irvine of Drum (in 
Aberdeenshire^, Mr. J. Malcolm of Poltalloch (a 



& 



^ 



^ 



'■,T?r'']^V^'M,*!''.*'5X>'*v.V^'^''''' 



c& 




m 



-a 



( 300 ) 

fine-looking man, whose son, a tall large man, 
dined here yesterday, and whose daughter has 
just married Mr. Gathorne Hardy's son), and 
Sir G. and Lady Home, who live just outside 
the town : he is sheriff-depute, and she a niece 
of Sir F. Grant. Went upstairs with Beatrice 
and Jane Churchill, Louise always remaining 
below. 

Friday, September 24. 

Raining and blowing. Breakfasted with my 
two dear daughters. The rain ceased, and at a 
little past twelve I walked with Louise and Beatrice 
up by the lodge at the stables, which are in the 
" Cherry Park,'' and looked at our horses and 
Louise's, and saw a little dog, the daughter of 
Louise's poor old Frisky ; and then walked along 
at the back of the stables, where the trees are 
very fine — most splendid silver firs — and then 
back by the kitchen-garden and the straightest 
path, past a magnificent Scotch fir of great height 
and circumferehce. In at twenty minutes past 
one. It was dull and dark. 

At a quarter-past five, after tea, started with 
Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill in the rain, 



ffl- 



# 



a- 



a 



( 301 ) 

which turned to a heavy downpour. We drove 
up the way we had previously walked, by the 
private road, under trees the whole way, to Lynn 
a Ghitkefi, the highest fall of the Amy, which is 
very pretty. There we had to get out to walk 
over a wooden bridge, which Louise said they 
did not like to drive over, and came back by the 
high road. By this time the weather had quite 
cleared, and so we drove on past the inn of 
Inveraray, through a gate which is always left 
open, and up what is called the " Town'. Avetmel' 
consisting entirely of very old beeches joining 
overhead and nearly a mile long, at the back of 
the town. We came back bv the lime avenue in 
the deer park, and in by a gate close to the plea- 
sure-ground at half-past six. The halberdiers, 
all tenants of the Duke, kept guard the whole 
day. 

We dined at a quarter- past eight on account 
of the ball — only Louise, Beatrice, Jane Churchill, 
and L Went into the drawing-room for a moment, 
where the Duke presented Sir Donald Campbell 
of Dunstaffnage and his wife, and J. A. Campbell 
oi New Inverawe (Loch Aive). Sir Donald Camp- 
bell is deputy-keeper of Dunstaffnage Caslle, and 



^■ 



-ff 



» 



*H 



a-- 



f 1 



-a 



( 302 ) 



wears a key in consequence. He is between forty 
and fifty, and wore a kilt, as did also Malcolm of 
P olt alloc hdJvA the other gentlemen. At a quarter- 
past ten we drove across to the temporary pavilion, 
where the ball to the tenants was to take place. 
Louise, Beatrice, and Jane Churchill went with me 
in the Duke's coach. The Duke, Lome, and 
Colin received us, and the Duchess and all the 
girls and the other ladies were inside at the upper 
end on a raised platform, where we all sat. It 
is a very long and handsome room, I b lieve a 
hundred and thirty feet long, and was built at the 
time of Louise's marriage. It was handsomely 
decorated with flags, and there were present be- 
tween seven and eight hundred people — t^nanto 
with their wives and families, and many people 
from the town ; but it was not like the Highland 
balls I have been accustomed to, as there were 
many other dances besides reels. The band could 
not play reels (which were played by the piper), 
and yet came from Glasgow\ The ball began, 
however, with a reel ; then came a country dance, 
then another .eel Louise danced a reel with 
Brown, and Beatrice with one of the Duke's 
foresters ; but the band could only play a country 



^- 



-^ 



XMi 



: ^i?^!^^;' "'^ 



-a 



c& 



^j 



( 303 ) 



dance time for it. Another reel with pipes, in 
which Jane Churchill danced with Brown, and 
Francie Clark with Annie (Mrs. Macdonald, my 
wardrobe maid), Louise and Beatrice dancing in 
another reel with one of the other people and 
Mr. John Campbell. Then came a " W/i?/^^r/i^," 
which seemed to be much liked diere, and more 
reels, and lastly a ^Uempete" in which Louise and 
Beatrice danced. In the early part a Gaelic song 
was sung by some of the people, including Mr. 
John Campbell. I remember some which were 
sung by the boatmen on Loch Tay in 1842. After 
the '' tetnpHe'' we came away at nearly half-past 
twelve. 



Saturday, September 25. 

A pouring morning. Breakfast as usual with 
my two dear children — dear Louise so kind and 
attentive, so anx^'ous I and all my people should 
be comfortable, thinking of everything. It cleared, 
and at half-past eleven I \valked out with Louise 
(Beatrice walked with Jane Churchill and the 
girls) to the kennel, along the River Aray, whicli 
had risen a great deal since Thursday, when it 



--ff 



c& 



--ff 



iffggjQjj^ 



it! I 



c& 



( 304 ) 

was as low as possible. We went to the kennel 
and saw the doi:^s and the eagle ; from here we 
went to the kitchen garden, which is large. There 
are very fins peaches and a wonderful old laurel 
and thuja, which Iiave spread to an immense size. 
Home at twenty minutes to one. Luncheon as 
before. 

Louise introduced me to a good old lady, a 
Miss McGibbon, who was too ill to come out 
and see me ; she patted Louise on the shoulder 
and said, " We are all so fond of the Prince' 
she is a ^reat pet." Louise said, " Lome was . . 
great pet ; " and she answered, " Yes ; he is, and 
so you are a double pet." * 

At ten minutes past four drove out with 
Lov.ise, Beatrice, and the Duke in the waggon- 
ette, and took a charming drive, the afternoon 
being very fine and bright. We went out the 
same way we had been on Wednesday, and once 
or twice I'esides, along the avenue called Balla- 
chanooran, by the deer park (a great many gates 
having to be opened, as they must be kept locked 
to prevent the deer getting out), and struck into 
the Lochgilphead Road beyond Crotnalt. 
* She died soon after. 



We 



a 



■B- 



& 



;lv 



a 



'ith 

^on- 

loon 

the 

ince 

dla- 

Ltes 

Iked 

into 



'We 



r 



( 305 ) 
the first ( 



■^ 



then passed, as on the first day, Dalchenmi and 
Killean, Achnagoul and Achindrain. The last 
two places are old Highland villages, where a 
common old practice, now fallen into disuse, con- 
tinues, of which the Duke gave me the following 
account : — 

In the Highlands of Scotland up to a comparatively 
recent date the old system of village communities 
prevailed as the common system of land tenure. Under 
this system the cultivator were collected into groups 
or villages, the cottages b iiig all built close together on 
some one spot of the farm. The farm itself was divided 
into pasture land and arable land. The pasture land 
was held in couimon by all the families, and the c. able 
land was divided by lot every year, so that each family 
might get its turn or its chance of the better and 
the worse qualities of soil. This very rude system is 
quite incompatible with any improved culture, but is an 
extremely ancient one. Sir Henry Maine has lately 
published a very interesting little book on the subject, 
shoA'ing that it once prevailed a'l over Europe, and 
does still actually prevail over the greater part of India. 
It has now almost entirely disappeared in the Highlands, 
where such crofters or very small cultivators as remain 
are generally separate from each other — each living on 
his own croft — although there are still remaining many 
cases of pasture or hill land held in common among 
several crofters. 



^ 



i::^. 



-ff 



c& 



■a 



IM 



C 306 ) 

Achna^oul^ near Inveraray, is one of the old primitive 
villages, where all the houses are built close together, 
and where, as late as the year 1847, the old rude 
practice still held — that of an annual casting of lots for 
the patches of arable land into which the farm was 
divided. At that time there were sixteen families, and 
each of them cultivated perhaps twenty different patches 
of arable land separated from each other. About that 
year the families were persuaded with much difficulty 
to give up this old semi-barbarous system and to divide 
the arable land into fixed divisions, one being assigned 
to each tenant, so that he could cultivate on an improved 
system. But the village remains as it was, and is one 
of the comparatively few of that class which now remain 
in the Highlands. 

They are said to be the only two villages of the 
kind in existence in the Highlands. The inhabi- 
tants are very exclusive, and hardly ever marry 
out of their own villages. 

We went on between curious, rather low, grass 
hills on either side, some higher than others, and 
several of which have small lochs at the tops with 
excellent trout, as the Duke told us. He showed 
us some farms and other glens, and had something 
to say about each place. We next turned to the 
left, where we got into oak woods, passing some 
powder mills belonging to Sir G. Campbell, and 



W 



R-]- 



■ff 



a 



-ff 



[& 



( 307 ) 

a small village called Cumlodden, or rather a row 
of huts in which the people employed at the 
mills live, and from here turned to the village of 
Furnace, inhabited by the men who work the 
Duke's great quarries close to the sea, and which 
is so called from a number of furnaces which were 
used in the last century for smelting down lead 
brought from England. The Duke showed us 
one remaining, though in ruins, and we passed 
a quarry. The drive went by the shore of Loch 
Fyne, much reminding me of the drive along 
Lock Eil beyond Banavie, between trees on 
either side, oak, ash, beech, etc., with much 
underwood, hazel, bramble, etc., and we stopped 
at a point called Pennymore, where there is a 
small battery where Lome's volunteers practise ; 
and here the view, looking down the loch tolirards 
the sea and the Kyles of Bute with finely-shaped 
hills, was very beautiful. The more distant hills 
were those above Ardrishaig. I tried to sketch 
here after we had taken our tea. We went along 
by Kenmore, Kilbryde, and Dalchenna (again), 
and it was a lovely evening, with such soft tints 
on the distant hills, and the town in front backed 
by trees. ^ took another sketch (only very slight, 



&-■ 



a 



X a 



^ 



^ iwiiii^l i yiw ^ .j? *- * "'" ^ . ■*■*«*■'* '■ f -r*'***!'"- 



[& 










Pi 




a 



ta 



( 308 ) 

in pencil) of this view from the Duchess's new 
school-house, called Creggatis School. 

We got home by half-past six. Besides our 
two daughters and the Duke and Duchess, Lady 
Dufferin and Colin Campbell dined with me. 
Went as usual into the drawing-room for a little 
while, and then upstairs to my room. Beatrice 
remained with Jane and me. 



Sunday, September 26. 

The morning was very wet, so decided after our 
usual nice breakfast not to go out, but wrote, etc. 
At a quarter to twelve we attended divine ser- 
vice in the house, in the large dining-room, which 
is a long room. Dr. MacGregor performed the 
service. Went afterwards into the drawing-room 
and the two libraries, the newer of which had been 
arranged by Louise and Lome. There are some 
fine pictures in the drawing-room — one of the 
Marquis of Argyll who was beheaded, of Field- 
Marshal Conway by Gainsborough, of Duke 
Archibald, who built the house, etc., also of the 
present Duke's handsome grandmother, who 



w 



■WBJKb'e--5*'*' 



a 



[5 



-a 



( 3C9 ) 

married first a Duke of Hamilton, secondly a 
Duke of Argyll. 

Luncheon as usual. Then upstairs, and at 
twenty minutes to four walked out with Louise, 
Beatrice, and Jane Churchill, and went along by 
the river, which had been over the road in the 
night, on to the " Millers Lynn" the first falls, 
which are very pretty and were very full, but are 
not near as high as the Garbhalt. We met some 
of the party coming back, and then some way 
farther up the river got into the carriage and 
drove to the " middle fall " or Essacklay, where 
we got out and walked to look at the fall ; then 
drove to Lynn a Ghithen and saw the third fall, 
after which we drove somi distance up Glen 
Amy, beyond Sironmagachan to TmIUcIi Hill, 
then back again past the stables, and on through 
the Town Avenue back, and in by ten minutes 
past six. 

Took tea with Beatrice and Louise, who came 
in rather late, afterwards read and wrote. Besides 
Louise and Beatrice, Lome, Elizabeth Campbell, 
Jane Churchill, and General Ponsonby dined with 
me. We went into the drawing-room for a short 
while as usual. 



■ff 



L, — |— « 



■ff 



c& 



a 




lii 



L.l 



( 310 ) 



Monday, September 27. 

It was a dreadfully rough night, pouring and 
blowing fearfully, and we heard it had thundered 
and lightened. After our nice little breakfast and 
writing, I went out at eleven with Louise, and met 
the Duke and the rest in the pleasure-grounds, 
where I planted a small cedar of Lebanon, the seed 
of which Lady Emma McNeill had brought back 
from the East. Then went on a little farther to 
where the road turns near the river, and planted 
a small silver fir, opposite to a magnificent one 
which my beloved Albert had admired in 1847. 
Beatrice walked up meanwhile with Jane Churchill, 
Evelyn, and Frances Campbell, to the top of the 
fine hill of Dunaquoich, opposite the Castle, after 
seeing the trees plantedi and was to plant one 
herself when she came down. I drove off with 
Louise past the Creitabhille Lodge, the granite 
quarry (not, of course, the large ones which we 
saw on Saturday in the deer forest), and then got 
out and walked up a long steep path in the wood 
to obtain a view, of which, however, we did not see 
much. I am sure we walked a mile and a half 



C3. 



& 



11 ; 



ft 



[& 



-a 



( 31' ) 

up to the top, and it was a long pull, but I walked 
well. However, in going down, the wet grass 
and moss made me slip very much, having no 
nails to my boots, and twice I came down com- 
pletely. 

We drove back by Essachosan as quickly as 
we could at a quarter to one. The trees are 
wonderfully thick, and the tangled undergrowth 
of fern etc. is almost like a jungle. We had 
hardly any rain. Luncheon as usual. Drawing. 
The views from my room were so tine. While I 
was dressing to go out, Louise brought in Archi- 
bald Campbell's two lovely little children, little 
Neil, a dear pretty fair boy of three, very like 
Archie as a child, and the baby, Elspeth, who is 
beautiful : brown curly hair, enormous dark blue 
eyes fringed with very long dark eyelashes, and a 
small mouth and nose. 

At ten minutes to four drove off in the 
waggonette with Louise, Beatrice, and Lome, out 
by the approach along the foot of Dunaquoich, 
past the yew and chestnut avenue, over the 
Garo7ine Bridge, along the lochside, an excellent 
road, much wooded, and commanding a beautiful 
view of the opposite shore and hills oiArdkinglasSy 



ff 



t& 



T 



t 






a 



t& 



( 



312 



past the Stj'oiie Point, Achnaira, and the runis of 
the old castle or towc^r of Dunderave, which for- 
merly belonged to the McNaghtons, who subse- 
quently settled in Ireland, on to the head q{ Loch 
Fyjte. There we turned up to the left and drove 
up Glen Fyne, a very wild narrow glen with hardly 
any trees, and the water of the Fytte running 
through it. The high green hills with rugged 
grey rocks reminded me of the Spital of Glen- 
sliee and of AUanour (Lord F'ife's). We drove 
up to a very small shooting-lodge, the property of 
Mr. Callander, brother-in-law to Lord Archibald, 
where a keeper with a nice wife lives. As it was 
beginning to rain, we went into the house and 
took our (made) tea, and I sketched. Janie 
Campbell (Lady Archibald) and her two sisters 
lived here for some time. The Duke was their 
guardian. We drove back the same way, and 
encountered a tremendous shower, which only 
ceased as we were quite near home. We were 
home at twenty minutes to seven. Besides Louise 
and Beatrice, the Duke and Duchess and Sir John 
and Lady Emma McNeill dined with me. Mr. 
D. Macleod gone ; the others remain. 



■a 



-ff 



fB- 



■a 



o'j 



Tuesday, Septeviber 28. 

Bright and then showery. At a h'ttle past 
eleven drove with Louise and Beatrice along 
the sea-shore as far as Dovglass Water Point, 
where we stopped to sketch between the frequent 
showers, the view being lovely and the lights so 
efTective, 

Home through the town by a quarter to one. 
Painting. Luncheon as each day, after which 
again painting. At a quarter to four started 
off in a shower in the waggonette, with Louise, 
Beatrice, and Jane Churchill, for Glen Shira. 
We drove by the approach through the fine old 
avenue of beeches which suffered so much two 
years ago. This time along the right side of 
the Dhu Loch, which is three-quarters of a mile 
long, up to the head of Glen Shira, which is seven 
miles distant fio n the upper end of the loch, and 
is lovely. We had driven up a good way last 
Thursday, as far as Drumlce. It is a lovely glen, 
wilder and much shut in as you advance, with fine 
rocks appearing through the grassy hills, and thickly 
wooded at the bottom. We passed two farms. 



t-^ 



-Et 



id 



J .1 



cS- 



A- 



■a 



ft 



( 314 ) 

and then went up to where the glen closes, and 
on the brae there is a keeper's cottage, j.ust 
above which are the remains of a house where 
Rob Roy lived for some time concealed, but on 
sufferance. His army or followers were hidden in 
Glen Shira. 

We got out here to look at some fine falls of 
the river Shira, a linn falling from a height to 
which footpaths had been made. Then drove on 
a little farther, and stopped to take our tea. We 
stopped twice afterwards to make a slight sketch 
of this lovely green glen, so picturesque and peace- 
ful-looking, and then to take another view from the 
lower end of the Dhu Loch, in which Louise helped 
me. She also sketched the glen, and had done a 
sketch this morning. She has such talent, dear good 
child, and I felt so sad to leave her. The evening 
was quite fine, it having cleared up and all the 
heavy clouds vanished when we arrived at the 
head of the glen. In at twenty minutes past six. 
Busy arranging papers, painting, etc. Besides 
Louise and Beatrice, the Duke and Duchess, 
Lady Dufferin and Mr. J. Campbell dined with 
me. W^ent again into the drawing-room and took 
leave of the Dufferins, who were to go next day. 



-ff 



-i^- i»s 



■a 



[B~* — 



-ff 



— & 



( 315 ) 

He starts on the 8th for Canada. Dear Louise 
came up with me to my room, and stayed a little 
while talking with me. 

Wednesday, Septcfuber 29, 

Vicky's and Fritz's engagement day — already 
twenty years ago ! God bless them ! 

Got up before eight, and at \ ast eight 
breakfasted for the last time with dear Louise 
an'-l Beatrice. Then dressed before half-past nine 
and went downstairs. The early morr.ing was fair, 
though misty, but unfortunately by half-past eight 
the mist had come down and it rained. It was 
decided that the horses should go back overland 
(having had such a terrible journey from the diffi- 
cult embarkation and landing) by Dalmally, stop- 
ping all night at Tyndrum and coming on next 
day. The van was to go by sea. Some of the 
things belonging to our toilettes (which were in 
far too cumbrous boxes) we kept with us. I took 
leave of the whole family,* including the McNeills, 
and, with a heavy heart, of my darling Louise. It 
rained very much as we drove off, and for some 
time afterwards, to make it more melancholy. 
♦ Elizabeth, Duchess of Argyll, died May 25, 1878. 



te— 



r 



■ '.wm'iffi«M»K.s 



mm 



f 



IKh. ' 



II 



111 



f ! 



a- 



c& 



( 



3'6 



) 



We left Inveraray at half-past nine, and drove 
out by the same gateway as on our arrival, but 
afterwards went along the sea-shore to the head 
of the loch. We then turned to the right, still 
along the lochside, and changed horses at twenty 
minutes to eleven at a small inn called Cairndow, 
where the dear little Campbell children are staying, 
and who were at the window — such lovely children ! 
There were a few people collected, and the harness 
as well as the horses had to be changed, and a 
pair of leaders put on to pull us up the long steep 
ascent in Glenkinglass. This caused a delay of 
ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. It rained 
rather heavily, the mist hanging over the hills 
most provokingly. We passed Ai'dkinglass (Mr. 
Callander's), and then turned up tothe left through 
the very wild and desolate Glenkinglass. The 
high green hills with hardly any habitations re- 
minded me of the Spital of Glenshee. The mist 
lifted just enough to let one see the tops of the 
hills below which we were passing. The road was 
steep, and, just as we were getting near the top, 
the leaders, which had repeatedly stopped, refused 
to pull any farther, reared and kicked and jibbed, 
so that we really thought we should never get on, 



ft 



-4 



tfl- 



a 



( 3>7 ) 

and should perhaps have to sleep at some wayside 
inn. But we stopped, and Brown had the leaders 
taken off near a small tarn, called Loch Restel, and 
he and Francie walked. We thtm got on much 
better. A little farther on we passed a few scat- 
tered huts, and at last we reached the top of this 
long ascent. The rain, which had been ver}' heavy 
just when our plight was at its worst, stopped, and 
the day cleared. 

At the summit of the pass is the spot called 
Rest and be thankful, from an inscription cut upon 
a stone by the regiment that made the road, 
which was one of the military roads to open up the 
Highlands constructed by Government under the 
superintendence of Marshal Wade. The stone 
still remains, but the words are much defaced. 
Here we came upon the splendid steep wild pass 
of Glen Croe, something like Glcncoe, but not so 
fine and the road much steeper. It reminds me 
of the DeviVs Elbozv, and even of the Devil's 
Bridge in the Goschenen Pass on the St. Gothard. 
We got out and walked down the road, which goes 
in a zigzag. A few people who had walked up 
from the coach were standing there. As at Glencoe 
the stream flows in the hollow of the pass, and 



* 



# 



'■' ■ 



cfi- 



( 318 ) 



there were some cattle and a house or two. The 
sun even came out all at once and lit up the wild 
grand scene. We got into the carriage near the 
bottom, and drank Fritz and Vicky's healths. 

There was no more heavy rain, though there 
were frequent showers succeeded by most brilliant 
sunshine. We drove on under and by trees, and 
saw high hill-tops, including the peak of Ben 
Lomond, and then came upon Loch Long, a sea 
loch, which we sailed up in 1847, and drove part 
of the way along the shore, on the opposite side 
of which lie Arrochar and several pretty villas. 
We went round the head of the loch, where stood 
Lady Welby (formerly Victoria Wortley) and her 
children, and drove along under an arch near the 
bridge, passing thrc jh the village oi Arrochar, 
which is in DtimbartonsJiire, and here had a ver)- 
good view of the celebrated Cobbler, or Ben 
Arthur. We next changed horses at Tarbet, quite 
a small village, where there was a sort of arch, 
composed of laurels and flowers stretched across 
the road. There were a good many people here, 
who pressed in upon us a good deal. Here 
General Ponsonby presented Mr. H. E. Crum 
Ewing, Lord Lieutenant of Dumbartonshire. He 



•a 



tB- 



# 



M 



lb. 



■a 



fl- 



. The 
he wild 
ear the 
hs. 

1 there 
)riniant 
es, and 
of Ben 
^, a sea 
ve part 
ite side 
' villas. 
I stood 
id her 
ar the 
oc/iar, 
ver)- 
Ben 
quite 
arch, 
icross 
here, 
I Here 
'rum 
He 



-ff 



-a 



( 319 ) 



preceded us a little way in his carriage, and then 
followed us. 

The drive along Loch Lomond, which we came 
upon almost immediately after Tardci, was per- 
fectly beautiful. We wound along under trees on 
both sides, with the most lovely glimpses of the 
head of the loch, and ever and anon of Loch 
Lomond itself below the road ; the hills which 
rose upon our right reminding me of Abcrfoyle, 
near Loch Ard, and of the lower part of the 
Pilatus. Such fine trees, numbers of hollies 
growing down almost into the water, and such 
beautiful capes and litde bays and promontories ! 
The loch was extremely rough, and so fierce was 
the wind, that the foam was blown like smoke along 
the deep blue of the water. The gale had broken 
some trees. The sun lit up the whole scene 
beautifully, but we had a few slight showers. It 
reminded me of Switzerland. I thought we saw 
everything so much better than we had formerly 
done from the steamer. As we proceeded, the 
hills became lower, the loch widened^ and the 
many wooded islands appeared. We next changed 
horses at Lnss, quite a small village — indeed the 
little inn stands almost al^ne, and they drove us 



r~| . 



-CP 



cfi-* 



ft 



#lfi^'^ 



( 320 ) 



close up to it, but there was a great crowding and 
squeezing, and some children screamed with fright ; 
two presented nosegays to Beatrice and me, and 
a poor woman offered me a bag of " sweeties^ 

From here we drove along past the openings of 
GlenLuss and G/en Finlas, which run up amongst 
the fine hills to the right, the loch being on our 
left, and the road much vooded. There are slate 
quarries close to Luss. About two miles froin 
Luss we drove through Sir J. Colc/ihoun's place, 
Rossdhu, which commands a beautiful view of 
Bc7t Lomond and the loch, rad drove up to the 
house, where Highland volunteers were drawn up, 
and where we stopped without getting out of the 
carriage, and I received a nosegay from a little 
girl, and a basket of fruit. Sir J. Colquhoun's 
father was drowned two years ago in the loch, 
crossing over from an island where he had been 
shooting, and the body was not found for a fort- 
night ; the keepers with hini were also drowned. 
We drove on, passing several other places, and 
everywhere were arches of flowers, flags, etc., and 
the poorest people had hung out handkerchiefs for 
flags. We were followed by endless "machines'* 
full of people, and many on foot running, and our 



, ■ a 



fS- 



-ff 



dB- 



( 



331 



) 



horses were bad and went very slowly. However, 
as we approached Balioc/i, through which we did 
not pass, but only went up to the station, though 
the crowds were very great, perfect order was 
kept. The militia was out, and we got quite 
easily into the train at a quarter-past three. 

Here again a nosegay was presented, and Mr. 
A. Orr Ewing, member for tlie county, and Mn 
Smollett, the Convener, whom we had seen on 
board the steamer six years ago, were presented. 
Balloch is a manufacturing place for dyeing, and 
is connected with the trade in Glasgow. We had 
some cold luncheon as soon as we got into the train. 

Our next stoppage was at Stirling, where 
there was an immense concourse of people, and 
the station prettily decorated. The evening was 
very fine, the pretty scenery appearing to great 
advantage, and the sky lovely. After this it got 
rapidly dark. We stopped at Perth and at the 
Bridge of Dun, where Jane Churchill got into our 
carriage and we had some tea ; and then at Aber- 
deen, where it poured. At twenty minutes to ten 
we arrived at Ballatcr, and at once got into our 
carriage, and reached Balmoral at twenty five 
minutes to eleven. 



a 



tt- 



-ff 



•:»: 




a- 



322 



Highland Funeral. 
October 1875, 



Thiu'sday, October 21, 1875. 

Much grieved at its being a worse day than 
ever for the funeral of Brown's father,* which sad 
ceremony was to take place to-day. The rain is 
hopeless — the ninth day! Quite unheard of ! I 
saw good Brown a moment before breakfast ; he 
was low and sad, and then going off to Micras. 
At twenty minutes to twelve drove with Beatrice 
and Janie Ely to Micras. As we drove up (unfortu- 
nately raining much) we met Dr Robertson, and all 
along near the house were numbers of people — 
Brown told me afterwards he thought above a 
hundred. All my keepers, Mitchell the blacksmith 
(from Clackaniurn), Symon, Grant, Brown's five 

* He had died on the i8th, aged 86, at Micras, opposite 
Abergeldie, on the other side of the river. 



^- 



ft 



•ff 



s- 



a 



( 323 ) 

uncles, Leys, Thomson (postmaster), and the 
forester, people below Micras and in Aberarder, 
and my people ; Heale, Lohlein (returned this day 
from a week's leave), Cowley Jarrett, Ross and 
Collins (sergeant footman), Brown and his four 
brothers,* including Donald (who only arrived last 
night, and went to the Bush, his brother William's 
farm), took us to the kitchen, where was poor dear 
old Mrs. Brown sitting near the fire and much upset, 
but still calm and dignified; Mrs. William Brown 
was most kind and helpful, and the old sister-in-law 
and her daughter ; also the Hon. M. West, Mr. 
Sahl, Drs. Marshall and Profeit. Mr. Begg, and Dr. 
Robertson, who came in later. The sons, and a few 
whom Brown sent out of the kitchen, were in the 
other small room, where was the coffin. A small 
passage always divides the kitchen and the sitting- 
room in this old sor. of farmhouse, in front of which 
is the door — the only door. Mr. Campbell, the 
minister k Crathie, stood in the passage at the door, 
every one i ie standing close outside. As soon as he 
began his prayer, poor dear old Mrs. Brown got up 
and came and stood near me — able to hear, though, 

* The fifth, Hugh (who, since May 1883, has been my 
Highland attendant), was then in New Zealand.. 



IB- 



V a 



& 



n& 



a 



( 324 ) 

alas ! not to see — and leant on a chair during the 
very impressive prayers, which Mr. Campbell gave 
admirably. When it was over, Brown came and 
begged her to go and sit down while they took the 
coffin away, the brothers bearing it. Every one 
went out and followed, and we also hurried out 
and just saw them place the coffin in the hearse, 
and then we moved on to a hillock, whence we saw 
the sad procession wciding its way sadly down. 
The sons were there, whom I distinguished easily 
from their being near good Brown, who wore his 
kilt walking near the hearse. All walked, except 
our gentlemen, who drove. It fortunately ceased 
raining just then. I went back to the house, and 
tried to soothe and comfort dear old Mrs. Brown, 
and gave her a mourning brooch with a little bit of 
her husband's hair which had been cut off yester- 
day, and I shall give a locket to each of the sons. 

When the coffin was being taken away, she 
sobbed bitterly. 

We took some whisky and water and cheese, 
according to the universal Highland custom, and 
then left, begging the dear old lady to bear up. 
I told her the parting was but for a time. We 
drove quickly on, and saw them go into the kirk- 



*- 



■FP 



t « 



r 



( 325 ) 



-^ 



yard, and through my glasses I could see them 
carry the coffin in. I was grieved I could not be 
in the kirkyard. 

Saw my good Brown at a little before two. 
he said all had gone off well, but he seemed 
very sad ; he had to go back to Aficras to meet all 
the family at tea. Ail this was terribly trying for 
the poor dear old widow, but could not be avoided 
Already, yesterday morning, she had several of 
the wives and neighbours to tea. Every one was 
very kind and full of sympathy, and Brown was 
greatly gratified by the respect shown to him and 
his family to-day. 




4' 






c& 



'-a 



( 326 ) 



Unveii,ing of the Statue of the Prince 
Consort at Edinburgh, 1876. 



Holyrood, 
Augitst 17, 1876. 

Beloved Mama's birthday. 

How often she came to Edinburgh for a few- 
days on her way to and from Abergeldie, and how 
much she always liked it ! 

We arrived yesterday morning at Edmbiirgh at 
eight o'clock. Had had a good night. Unfortu- 
nately the weather was misty, and even a little rain 
fell. No distance could well be seen. Dear 
Arthur came to breakfast (always in uniform).* 
At eleven o'clock went and sat out till half-past 
twelve, under an umbrella and with screens, on the 
side of the Abbey facing Arthur s Seat. Wrote 

• He was then Major in the 7th Hussars, and living at the 
Piers Hill Barracks, near Edinburgh, where his regiment was 
quartered. 



\ ' 



m 



■EP 



-a 



Lm. 



c£h 



*""B] 



( 327 ) 



and signed. Brown always helping to dry the 
signatures. 

Read also in the papers a very nice account 
given in the " Courant " of what passed yesterday. 
Many interruptions. The day improving. Crowds 
flocking into the town, troops marching, bands 
playmg—just as when any great event takes place 
in London. 

The last time that my dearest Albert ever ap- 
peared in public was in Edinburgh on October 23 
[1S61], only six weeks before the end of all. when 
he laid the first stone of the new Post Office, and 
I looked out of the window to see him drive off in 
state, or rather in dress, London carriages, and 
the children went to see the ceremony. It was in 
Edinburgh, too. that dearest Mama appeared for 
the last time in public-being with me at the 
Volunteer Review in i860, which was the first 
time she had driven with me in public for twenty 
years I 

Dear Arthur could not come to luncheon, as he 

was on duty. At half-past three we started in 

three carriages : Beatrice, Leopold, and I in the 

third ; Brown (in full dress) and Collins behind ; 

•Leopold in the Highland dress; dearArthur.com- 



h^- 



-—E] 
^ir 



c& 



ft! 



{ 



3^8 



) 



mm 



manding the full Sovereign's escort of the 7th 
Hussars, riding next to me. 

We drove out to the right — by Abbey Hilly the 
Regeit^ Road, Pnnces Street, then turning into St. 
Andrew Square, along George Street to Charlotte 
Square. Enormous crowds everywhere cluster- 
ing upon the Calton Hill and round and upon 
all the high monuments. The decorations were 
beautiful along the streets and on the houses, 
Venetian masts with festoons of flags on either 
side of Princes Street and St. And't'ew Street. St. 
And7^eiu Square also was beautifully decorated, 
and the few inscriptions were very touching and 
appropriate. The day was quite fair, though dull 
(which, however, under the circumstances, was 
better than a very scorching sun like yesterday) 
and heavy, and not clear as to distance. The 
crowd, which was all along most hearty and enthu- 
siastic, was densest at Charlotte Square. The 
Duke of Buccleuch received us, and the Royal 
Archers kept the ground. 

We walked up to a dais handsomely arranged, 
where I stood between Beatrice and Leopold (who 
were a little behind me). Dear Arthur's sense of 
duty was so great, that he would not dismount 



IS- 



^ 



m 



r- 



a 



( 329 ) 



and stand near me, but remained with the escort 
which he commanded, and which waited near our 
carriage. The ladies and gentlemen, Mr. Cross 
(Home Secretary), etc., standing behind them; 
the Committee, with the Duke of Buccleuch at 
their head, below. A large enclosure railed off 
was full of spectators, including all the highest 
and principal people, the Duchesses of Athole 
and Roxburgh!?, the Dowager Lady Ruthven, Sir 
Thomas Biddulph, etc. ; and our maids also were 
there, but I saw none of them. 

The ceremony began by a short prayer (which 
was somewhat disturbed by a great noise made by 
the crowd) offered up by Dr. Milligan, one of the 
Deans of the Chapel Royal. Then my dearest 
Albert's Chorale, with words like a National 
Anthem, was beautifully sung by a choir, accom- 
panied by the band of the 79th, led by Professor 
H. Oakeley, Mus. Doc. and Professor of Music in 
the University of i^'rt'/;^^//;;^/^. The Duke of Buc- 
cleuch then presented the Executive Committee, 
of which he himself is Chairman, and which con- 
sisted of Sir J. McNeill, G.C.B., Sir William Gibson 
Craig, Sir Daniel McNee, Dr. Lyon Playfair, and 
Mr. William Walker. After this, the Duke of 



B- 



-ff 



[& 



ft 




( 



330 



) 



tB- 



Buccleuch read a very pretty address, in which, 
besides my beloved Husband, dear Mama was 
alluded to, and I read a reply. 

Mr. Cross then declared that I wished the Statue 
(an equestrian one) to be unveiled, which was 
done most successfully, without a hitch. The effect 
of the monument as a whole, with the groups at 
the angles of the pedestal, is very good. The 
Coburg March was played, and its well-known 
strains * ever bring back ar and sweet memories. 

Mr. Steell, the sculptor, was presented, and this 
was followed by the singing of another beautiful 
chorale, with touching words and music, the latter 
composed by Professor Oakeley, who is a wonder- 
ful musician, and plays beautifully on the organ. 
We then, followed by our own suite, the Committee, 
and Mr. Steell, walked round the Statue and ex- 
amined the groups of bas-reliefs. The three 
sculptors who had executed the groups were also 
presented. Brown followed us round, having 
stood behind us the whole time. He was delighted 
with the reception. 

* This Mar< h was always played for dear Albert, and was 
originally composed for our grand-uncle, Field-Marshal Prince 
Francis Josias of Saxe-Coburg-Saalfeld. 



S 



cB^ 



-^ 



( 33' ) 



We drove back b}' Sovth C harlot tc Street and 
Princes Street. The horses of the Yeomanry and 
even some of the Hussars were very restive, and 
kept phinging and whirling round upon our horses. 
One of the Hussars, in particular, got in between 
our horses, and nearly caused an accident. We 
got back by ten minutes to fivr o'clock. 

We looked out of the window to see Arthur* 
ride off, and then I kniryhled Mr. Steell, who 
looked very happy. He has now long white 
hair — such a kind, good man ! I also knighted 
Professor Oakeley, who is still very lame, having 
met with a dreadful accident in Switzerland some 
years ago. His mother was a Murray (daughter 
of Lord Charles Murray Aynsley) and sister to 
the mother of Mrs. Drummond of Megginch, and 
his sister married an uncle of Fanny Drummond. 
Dear Augusta Stanley took much interest in him. 

I had a large dinner in the old dining-room 

* Arthur was attended by Lieutenant-Colonel I'ickard, 
R.H.A., who had been with him since 1867. Ho entered the 
Queen's service ist January, 1878, as Groom-in-Waiting, and 
became Assistant Privy Purse and Assistant Private Secretary 
in October 1878. He was a charming, amiable person, much 
devoted to Arthur and to me. He died at the age of forty of 
consumption, at Cannes, March i, 1880, deeply regretted by us 
and by all who knew him. 



fS- 



-ff 



& 



NiHi 







'i 

i 



^ 



( 332 ) 

below, where I had not dined since my darling 
Alberts time in 1861. I siit in the middle, oppo- 
site to where I used to sit. The party consisted 
of Arthur, who led me in and sat near me, and 
Leopold and Beatrice, all our people, the Duke of 
Buccleuch (who sat near me) and Lady Mary 
Scott, Lord Lothian (the Duke's son-in-law), Lord 
Dalkeith, young Lord Elgin, Lord Rosebery, the 
Dowager Lady Dnnmoreand Lady Adine Murray, 
Lord and Lady Elphin^cone, Sir John and Lady 
Emma McNeill, Mr. Cross, the Honourable B. 
Primrose, Major-General J. N. Stuart, and Colonel 
Hale of the 7th Hussars (Colonel of dear Arthur's 
regiment). The band of the 7th Hussars played 
during dinner, and Ross played during dessert. 
Brown * waited on me. 

Every one seemed pleased, and talked of the 
great success of the day. Mr. Cross was delighted. 
I remained talking some little time in the drawing- 
room, and then went ujDstairs and looked with 
Beatrice out of the window at the rockets. Such 
a noise in the streets and from the trains ! 

* It was hard for him to have t appear on such a festive 
occasion, having lost his much-loved mother only a fortnight 
before ; but his sense of duty ever went before every feeling of 
self. 



-& 



-& I p^' 



( 333 ) 



Presentation of Colours to "Thk Royal 
Scots," September, 1876. 



a 



Balmoral^ 
September 26, 1876. 

An earlier lunch. It had appeared to clear, 
and the rain was far less heavy. We started at 
three. The ladies and gentlemen had all gone on 
before in carriages, and many of our people went 
to Ballater, as It was a great novelty for the 
people here — William Brown and his wife, who 
had said yesterday she had never seen so many 
soldiers together and would therefore like to go ; 
Hugh Brown and his wife. Mrs. Profeit* with 
her children was there also. Alice, Beatrice, and 
Arthur were with me. The weather held up 
while we were going to Ballater, which we did 
in a closed landau (Brown and Collins on the 

• Wife of my Comiinssioner at Balmoral. 



ca 



-W 



cj-^ 



-a 



( 334 ) 

rumble). Just outside the village we opened the 
carriage. We drove to the left of the railway 
through a v/ood, avoiding the town, preceded by 
Captain Charles Phipps^ as Assistant Adjutant 
Quartermaster-General, on to the open space — a 
beautiful position, with the noble rocky high hill of 
Craig an Darrach, at the foot of which lie the 
Pass of Ballater and the park of Monaltrie Houf^ 
with the hills opposite. Nothing could be finer. 
A great many people were there, it is said be- 
tween two and three thousand ; but none of the 
spectators were in uniform. Alix was in a car- 
riage, Bertie and the boys (in Highland dress) and 
Prince John of Glucksburg * on foot. They stood 
near me, so did Arthur (also in his kilt), who had 
got out of the carriage. Then followed, after the 
Royal salute, the trooping of the colours, with 
all its peculiar and interesting customs, march- 
ing and counter-marching, the band playing the 
fine old marches of the " Garb of old Gaul " and 
'• Dumbarton Drums," also the march from the 
*' Fille du Regiment," which was evidently played 
as a compliment to me, whom they considered as 
"born in the regiment," my father having com- 
* Uncle of the Princess of Wales. 



^ 



■ff 



r& 



^ 



( 335 ) 



manded it at the time I was born. Then came 
the piling of the drums and the prayer by Mr. 
Middleton, minister of Ballater, after which the 
new colours were given to me. I handed them to 
the two sub-lieutenants who were kneeling, and 
then I said the following words : — 

" In entrusting these colours to your charge, 
It gives me much pleasure to remind you that I 
have been associated with your regiment from my 
earliest infancy, as my dear father was your Colo- 
nel. He was proud of his profession, and I was 
always told to consider myself a soldier's child. 
I rejoice in having a son who has devoteo his 
life to the army, and who, I an; confident, will 
ever prove worthy of the name of a British soldier. 
I now present the^e colours to you, convinced 
that you will always uphold the glory and reputa- 
tion of my first Regiment of Foot — the Royal 
Scots." 

Colonel M'Guire then spoke a few words in 
reply, and brought the old colours to me, and 
begged me to accept them. In doing so, I said 
I should take them to Windsor, and place them 
there in recollection of the regiment and their 
Colonel. Then they marched past well (they were 



B 



i 



£& 



ifi' 



1^ 



« 



ill 






^^3 



( 336 ) 



fine men), and after the Royal salute gave three 
cheers for me. The 79th kept the ground and 
took chari-e o^ the old colours. We left at once. 

The rain continued persistently, having got 
worse just as the prayer began ; but we kept the 
carriage open, and were back by half-past five. 

I was ^erribly nervous while speaking. 



L 



■ff 



If!! 



a— 



( 337 ) 



Expedition to Loch Maree 
Sf'Iptember 1 2-1 8, [877. 



-a 



Wednesday, September 1.2, 1877. 

A dull morning, very mild. Had not a good 
night. Up at a quarter-past eight, breakfasting 
at a quarter to nine (I had packed my large boxes 
with papers etc., with Brown, before breakfast on 
Monday, as all the heavier luggage had to be sent 
on in advance), and at a quarter-past nine left 
Dabiioral with Beatrice and the Duchess of Rox- 
burghe, leaving Leopold, who was himself to start 
at ten a.m. for Dunkeld, Brown on the rumble 
of the landau, his leg nov; really fairly well, but 
he looks pulled.* It began to rain very soon, 

* When we went on board the "Thunderer," August 12, at 
Osborne, Brown had fallen through an open place inside the 
turret, and got a severe hurt on the shin. He afterwards 
damaged it again, when it was nearly healed, by jumping off the 



■& 



■J 



cS- 



a 






) 



and went on till we almost reached Pallater, when 
we got into the railway. Here General Ponsonby 
and Sir William Jenner met us. Wilmore, Morgan, 
Cannon, Francie Clark (with darling Noble), and 
Heir went with us. Annie Macdonald, Hollis 
the cook, Lockwood, Seymour (who replaced poor 
Goddard), and Lizzie Stewart (the housemaid) 
went on before us on Monday. 

The day cleared and gradually became very 
fine. Passed through Aberdeen^ which looked 
very handsome, and where we much admired a 
new tower added to a college. Stopped at Dyce 
Jtmction at nineteen minutes to twelve. Near 
Aberdeen we saw the corn already cut, which 
is unusually early. Passed close u ider Benackie, 
the heather beautiful everywhere. At one o'clock 
we had our luncheon, and dear Noble came in 
and was so good and quiet. At twenty five 
minutes past one stopped at Keith, where we had 
stopped \r\ 1872, and where we had then been 
obliged to take two people into the carriage to 
open a door through which the maids passed, and 

box of the carriage, so that when he came to Balmoral about 
a fortnight afterwards, it v/as very bad, and he was obliged to 
take care o\ it for some days previous to the fresh journey. 



4^ 






fi- 



a 



( 339 ) 

which had got fixed.* The volunteers and a 
number of people were waiting for us here. 
About Keith the corn was sadly destroyed, but 
around Elgin it was better. Soon after this ap- 
peared the lovely hills of the Moray Frith — really 
beautiful : the land-locked sea so blue, with heavy 
fields of yellow corn (harvesting going on) in the 
undulating ground, with trees and woods here 
and there, formed a lovely picture. An old 
ruined church (Kinloss Abbey) we passed to the 
right, and Forres at eighteen minutes past two. 
Then Nairn, lying low on the Frith, but very 
picturesque with the hills risini' around. Near 
here poor Jane Churchill's sister, Cecilia Brinck- 
man, died on August 1 6, which is the cause that 
dear Jane is not with us now. The heather was 
so brilliant, and the sea, though very rough, was 
blue, which had a lovely effect ; but the bracken, 
and even the trees, have begun 'o turn here, as well 
as with us. Good crops about here. We passed 
near Fort George, which lies very prettily on the 
shore of the Frith, but where we did not stop, and 
Ctclloden. At three minutes past three passed 
through Inverness, where many people were out, 
♦ K/i/^ Expedition to Dunrobin, p. 178, 



t& 



z a 



■ff 



iB- 



■a 



( 340 ) 



and went quickly past Beauly. As far as Dingwall 
we had travelled precisely the same way in going 
to Dunrodin in 1872. At twenty minutes to four 
reached Dingwall, charmingly situated in a glen, 
where we stopped, and where there were a good 
many people waiting for us. 

Here Sir Kenneth and Lady Mackenzie of 
Gairloch met us with their three children, two 
boys and a gii I. He is a pleasing courteous person, 
and wore the kilt. He has an immense property 
about here, and all round is the Mackenzie country . 
Lady Mackenzie is the elder sister of Lady Gran- 
ville, and excessively like her. Soon after this 
we took tea, which was pleasant and refreshing. 
From Dingwall we turned to the left, and, instead 
of going on by the main line to Tain, went through 
the celebrated Strathpcffer, Avhich is extremely 
pretty — a wooded glen with houses and cottages 
dotted about ; then on through a wild glen, with 
hills, partly rocky, but with grass, heather, and 
bracken, and some trees running up amidst them. 
The railway goes along above and at some dis- 
tance from the village, proceeding by way of Strath 
Bran and Loch Luichart. There were occasional 
showers, with gleams of sunshine always between. 



B- 



^ 



ft 



[& 



■ftl 



( 34. ) 

We left the railway at Achnasheen, where we 
arrived at a quarter to five, and where there are 
only a small station and two or three little cot- 
tages. We three ladies got into the sociable 
(Brown and Cannon on the box), the two gentle- 
men and three maids following in the waggonette, 
and the other servants in " traps." Sir Kennetli 
Mackenzie came as far as this small station, where 
there were a Gaelic inscription and some plaids 
arranged in festoons. The twenty miles drive 
from here, through a desolate, wild, and perfectly 
uninhabited country, was beautiful, though unfor- 
tunately we had heavy showers The first part 
winds along Loch Rusqiic (Gaelic Chroisg), a long 
narrow loch, with hills verv like those at the 
Spital and at Glen Mutch rising on either side. 
Looking back you see the three high peaks of 
Sco2ir-na-Vtiillin, The road continues along an- 
other small loch ; and then from the top of the 
hill you go down a very grand pass called Glen 
Dochart. Here Loch Marec came in view most 
beautifully. Very shortly after this you come upon 
the loch, which is grand and romantic. We changed 
horses at Kinlochcive, a small inn, near to which is 
a shootinQ-'lodofe, which was for some time rented 



& 



^ 



^? 



[& 



-a 



( 342 ) 

by Lady Waterpark's son-in-law, Mr. Clowes, and 
he and his wife used to live there a good deal. 
They are now living near Gair/ock, at .Flower- 
dale, another shooting-lodge of Sir Kenneth Mac- 
kenzie. 

The drive along the lochside, for ten miles to 
the hotel of Loch Maree, is beautiful in the ex- 
treme. The hills to the right, as you go from 
Kinlocheive, are splendid — very high and serrated, 
with wood at the base of some of them. One 
magnificent hill towers above the rest, and is not 
unlike the Pilatiis in shape, seen as it is from our 
hotel, just as the Pilatus is seen from the Pension 
JVallis. The windings of the road are beautiful, 
and afford charming glimpses of the lake, which 
is quite locked in by the overlapping mountains. 
There are trees, above and below it, of all kinds, 
but chiefly birch, pine, larch, and alder, with quanti- 
ties of high and most beautiful heather and bracken 
growing luxuriantly, high rocks surmounting the 
whole. Here and there a fine Scotch fir, twisted, 
and with a stem and head like a stone-pine, stands 
out on a rocky projection into the loch, relieved 
against the blue hills as in some Italian view. 
Part of the way the road emerges altogether from 



^ 



-& 



fi- 



^i 



( 343 ) 



the trees, and passes by a mass of huge piled-up 
and tumbled-about stones, which everywhere here 
are curiously marked, almost as though they w^ere 
portions of a building, and have the appearance of 
having been thrown about by some upheaving of 
the earth. We had several heavy shower ,, which 
produced a mo:.t brilliant rainbow, with the reflec- 
tion of a second, quite perfect. Then it quite 
cleared up, and the sky was radiant with the setting 
sun, which gave a crimson hue to all the hills, and 
lit up Ben Sleach just as I remember having seen 
it light up Be7i Nevis and the surrounding hills at 
Inverlochy, 

It was a little after seven when Loch Maree 
Hotel, which stands close to the loch and to the 
road and is surrounded by trees, was reached. At 
the entrance there is no gate, merely a low wall 
open at either side to admit carriages etc. It is 
a very nice little house, neatly furnished. To the 
left, as you enter, are two good rooms — a large 
one called the coffee-room, in which we take our 
meals, and the other, smaller, next to it, in which 
the gentlemen dine. Up the small but easy short 
winding staircase to the right come small, though 
comfortable, rooms. To the left Beatrice's, and 



^ 



# 



till 



*m 



iS- 



a 



( 344 ) 

Brown's just opposite to the right. Then up three 
steps is a small passage ; at the end, to the left, 
is my dear little sitting-room, looking on to the 
loch, and to JJcn Slcack and the road ; it is very 
full with my things. At the other end is my bed- 
room, with two small lOoms between for Wilmore 
and Annie. 

On arriving heard that the Russians had bom- 
barded Plama on the 9th, and had repulsed a sortie 
of the Turks with heavy loss. The bombardment 
continued again the following day, and General 
Skobeleff occupied the heights. We two and the 
Duchess dined together. The Duchess read to 
me a sketch of Thiers' life. Good Brown waited, 
and brought in my usual glass of water. Felt 
rather tired. 

Dear Louis of Messe's birthda) — God bless 
him! \ •',.', .'• '- .^. 



[& 



Thursday, Septonbcr 13. 

It had rained a great deal through the night, 
and the morning was dull. Had slept well. 
Beatrice and I breakfasted together downstairs, 
where we als lunched. Began to sketch, though 
there was no light and shade ; but the splendid 






e 



( 345 ) 



-^ 



mountain was clear. At eleven walked out with 
Beatrice on the road to Kinioc/ieue, about a 
mile, and back, greatly admiring the magnificent 
hills. There is a bridge over a stream called 
Talladale, and near it was a cottage, a miserable 
hovel, in which an old man lived ; he wore a 
coat and a high hat, and was much pleased to 
see me, but said he " had very little English," 
which is the case with most people here. We 
gave him something, and when Brown took it to 
him he asked the old man the names of some of 
the hills. 

The atmosphere was very close. In at half- 
past twelve, and then I drew and painted. So 
hot! It turned to rain. Painted, read, wroto, etc., 
and then we took tea, and at half- past five started 
with Beatrice and the Duchess of Roxburghe 
(Brown and Francie on the box), and drove on 
down the loch (the contrary way to that by which 
we had come), under trees, through a larch wood, 
winding above the loch for two miles, till we 
reached a bridge, wlilch goes over the stream of 
Garvaig, where there is a descent to above Slai- 
terdale, and thence drove up a mountain pass to 
the left. There the hills are much lower and 



fS-- 



W 



I ■• 



t 




IMAGE EVALUATION 
TEST TARGET (MT-S) 




V 




/. 







$> /^ 






.<$> 






C/ 



"^ 



C//- 
^ 



^ 






k 



1.0 



I.I 



111.25 



1^1 28 

MBS 

^ U& 12.0 



M 

2.2 



1.8 



U nil 1.6 



%.>^ 







Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 



33 WEST MAIN STREET 

WEBSTER, N.Y. MS80 

(716) 872-4S03 



4n^ 
^ ..*> 




«v 





>^ 



'*. 



'^'"- ^^/qT 






•^^ 



,.^ 



R, 






or 



a- 



-'-a 



( 346 ) 



curiously tumbled about, gra?s, fern, and heather 
growing up their sides, with rocks at the tops — 
curious serrated, knobbed hills. 

Passed a small loch called Padnascaily, out of 
which runs the Kerrie Water into another little 
loch. Here the road winds along almost like the 
roads in Switze7'land, and is very precipitous on 
one side, passing above the tine falls of the Kerrie, 
of which there are two or three successions, with 
fine rocks and wooded banks, through which the 
river seems to force its way. As Brown truly 
observed, it was like Glenfeshie ; only Gle^jfcshie 
has no road, but a very narrow path, where one 
has to ford. Looking back before you come to 
the falls there is a fine view of Ben Evy\ We 
drove quite down this pass to Kerriesdale^ at the 
bridge of which is a very pretty spot with wooded 
hills leading on to Gairloch. We turned, as it 
was late, and drove back the same way, getting 
home by half-past seven. It was dull, and grey, 
and dark, but did not rain till we came back. 
The Duchess finished reading Thiers' life. 



1-.— i — •- 



--ff 



e 



-a 



( 347 ) 



Friday, September 14. 

An awful storm of rain, wiih wind, all night 
and a good part of the moaning. Breakfasted as 
yesterday. Al length we two went out, and 
walked for more than a mile on the road by 
which we drove yesterday. The rocky hills, 
rising above the road, with the fine trees and 
undergrowth beneath them, remind me of the 
Lio7is Face, and of the Trossachs and Loch EiL 
It cleared, the rain ceased, and the day became 
fine, but very hot and oppressive. In at twenty 
minutes to one. The view from my little sitting- 
room is quite beautiful, Ben Sleach on one side, 
and the splendid loch, with the other fine rocky 
mountains and green island, on the other. One 
would like to sketch all day. More telegrams. 

At half-past three we started in two carriages, 
we three ladies in one, and the two gentlemen 
in the waggonette (Brown with us, and Francie 
with the next). We went just the same way as 
yesterday, but changed horses at Kerries Bridge, 
and turning to the left went a short way down 
a bad road, through a small wood of oaks, to 



f& 



-w 




a- 



ta- 



( 348 ) 



-a 



Shieldaig^ where there is a small cottage on the 
sea with a pretty garden, where Lord Bristol and 
Mr. Bateson live. But there is no road beyond, 
and we had to turn and go back again. We then 
drove over the bridge by a lovely wood of larch 
and other trees, through which flows a small river, 
and ascended a hill, passing by Flowerdale to 
Gairloch, which is on the sea. It consists of only 
a -very few houses dotted about — the kirk, manse, 
bank, and on the highest point the hotel. The 
hills immediately to the right and left of the fine 
bay are not very high. But high wooded hills 
are at the back of the Gah'loch, which is open to 
the Atlantic. Here we turned round and drove 
straight back again the same way, the few in- 
habitants having come out to greet us. After 
passing Kerries Bridge, we stopped to take our 
(made) tea. The afte** .oon and evening were 
beautiful. We got home at a quarter to seven. 
The post comes in at a quarter to four and at 
half-past nine. The climate is very warm and 
muggy. Dinner as usual. After dinner played 
with Be.itrice on the piano. 



w 



^^ 



a- 



-a 



^e on the 
ristol and 
[ bej'ond, 
We then 
. of larch 
lall river, 
'erdale to 
;s of only 
k, manse, 
;el. The 

the fine 
3ded hills 
. open to 
nd drove 

few in- 
. After 
take our 
n^ were 
o seven, 
and at 
Urm and 
played 



( 349 ) 



Saturday, September 15. 

A fair morning. Up early after a very good 
night. There is a perfect plague of wasps, and 
we are obliged to have gauze nailed down to keep 
these insects out when the windows are open, 
which, as the climate is so hot, they have to be 
constantly. I had to put on quite thin things 
again. Decided, after some little doubt, to make 
an expedition for the day to Torridon, described 
as fine and wild. There was a heavy shower 
before we started. Had been sketching and 
painting. 

At half past twelve we started in the waggonette, 
with Beatrice, the Duchess (who is delighted with 
everything), and General Ponsonby and Brown 
on the box. The day was very fine; we had 
only two or three showers, which lasted a few 
minutes. We drove on to Kinlochewe, where we 
took fresh horses, and a capital pair of bay ones 
we had. The sun was brilliant, and lit up the 
magnificent scenery beautifully. Halfway we 
crossed the bridge of Gi'tidie (from which Ben 
Sleach is seen to advantage), a very pretty rapid 



-ff 



4^ 



^ 



Sjf 




u4 






P- 



( 350 ) 

burn, with fine fir trees, and a glen running up to 
the right — i.e. to the south. At Kinlochewe we 
turned up to the right by the stream of Garry, 
mountains towering up, as we advanced, like 
mighty giants, and coming one by one and un- 
expectedly into view. To the left; we passed a 
pretty, small loch, called Loth Clare, which runs 
back into a wooded glen at the foot of high hills. 
Sir Ivor Guest has a shooting-lodge near, and 
you can just see a small house amongst the trees. 
Soon after this the grand, wild, savage-look- 
ing, but most beautiful and picturesque Glen of 
Torridon opened upon us, with the dark mural 
precipices of that most extraordinary mountain 
Ben Liughach, which the people pronounce Lia- 
rack. We were quite amazed as we drove below 
it. The mountains here rise so abruptly from 
their base that they seem much higher than our 
Aberdeenshire mountains, althojgh, excepting Ben 
Sleach (3,216 feet) and a few others, the hills are 
not of any remarkable height, and the level of the 
country or land itself is barely a hundred feet 
above the sea, whereas Balmoral is eight hundred 
feet to begin with. All the hills about Loch Maree 
and this glen, and elsewhere in this neighbour- 



a 



fB- 



-ff 



[& 



-a 



( 3SI ) 



hood, are very serrated and rocky. Ben Liarach 
is most peculiar from its being so. dark, and the 
rocks like terraces one above the other, or like 
fortifications and pillars — most curious ; the glen 
itself is very flat, and the mountains rise very 
abruptly on either side. There were two cottages 
(in one of which lived a keeper), a few cattle, and 
a great many cut peats. 

We came to the Upper Loch Torridoti, which 
is almost landlocked and very pretty. In the 
distance the hills of Skye were seen. Village 
there really is none, and the inn is merely a small, 
one-storied, "harled" house, with small windows. 
We drove beyond the habitations to a turn where 
we could not be overlooked, and scrambled up a 
bank, where we seated ourselves, and at twenty 
minutes to three took our luncheon with good 
appetite. The air off the mountains and the sea 
was delicious, and not muggy. We two remained 
sketching, for the view was beautiful. To the 
right were the hills of Skye, rising above the 
lower purple ones which closed in the loch. To 
the south, nearly opposite to where I sat, was 
Applccross (formerly Mackenzie property), which 
now belongs to Lord Middleton, and the high 



c& 



-^ 



I : 



[ff 



■& 



( 



352 



) 



mountains of Ben Hccklish and Ben Damp/i, 
with, in the distance northwards, the white peaks 
of Ben Liarach. We were nearly an hour sitting 
there, and we got down unwilhngly, as it was 
so fine and such a wild uncivilised spot, like the 
end of the world. There was a school, standing 
detached by itself, which had been lately built. 
The property here belongs to a Mr. Darroch, 
whose two little boys rode past us twice with a 
groom. An old man, very tottery, passed where 
I was sketching, and I asked the Duchess of Rox- 
burghe to speak to him ; he seemed strange, said 
he had come from Aju^rica, and was going to 
England, and thought Torridon very ugly ! 

We walked along, the people came cut to see 
us, and we went into a little merchant's shop, 
where we all bought some trifles — ^Just such a 
"shoppie" as old Edmonston's, and the poor man 
was so nervous he threw almost everything down. 
I got some very good comforters, two little woven 
woollen shawls, and a very nice cloak. We had 
spoken to a woman before, but she could not 
understand us, only knowing Gaelic, and had to 
ask another younger woman to help. 

A little farther off the road, and more on the 



ft 



■ff 



a 



a 



• ( 353 ) 

slope of the hill, was a row of five or six wretched 
hovels, before which stood bareleg.ijcd and very ill- 
clad children, and poor women literally squatting 
on the ground. The people cheered us and seemed 
very much pleased. Hardly any one ever comes 
here. We had now to get into the carriage, and 
one of the horses was a little restive ; but we soon 
started off all right, much interested by our ad- 
ventures. We admired the splendid mountain 
again on our way back, and -enjoyed our expedi- 
tion very much. One A^ery short shower we had, 
before coming to Kinlochewe, where we again 
changed horses, and were home at our nice little 
house by nearly seven, when Beatrice and I had 
some welcome tea. Later our usual dinner ; then 
Beatrice played, and we afterwards played together. 



Sunday, Sj/^f ember 16. 

A most beautiful bright morning, with a slight 
cloud overhanging Ben Sleach, which is very often 
not clear at the top. There was a heavy shower, 
which came on quite unexpectedly. We walked 
out at half past eleven, and after some three 



cb-. 



A A 



'^ 



^fl8 



i i 

I 



( < 



r 



! :1 I 




c& 



( 354 ) ' 

liundred yards turned up a path to the right, off 
the road to Kinlocheive, under oak and rowan 
trees, through very wet grass and fern, to where 
stood two very poor-looking low cottages. We 
looked into one, out of which came a tidy-looking 
woman, but who could hardly understand or speak 
a word of English, We then looked into the 
second, where Baldry lodged ; ii was wet and 
muddy, almost to the door, and the inside very 
low and close, but tidy. The "gudewife" came 
up and s[)oke to us, also like a foreigner, with 
difficulty. She was a nice, tidy-looking woman, 
and gave her name as Mrs. McRae, and the 
place is called ^^Sliot'ach." She knew us — at least 
Brown told her it was the " Bhan Righ " with her 
daughter, and gave her some money. 

We returned as we had come, and went on some 
way in the other direction, coming in at twenty 
minutes to one. Read prayers, etc. There is no 
kirk nearer than Kmlochewe and Gairloch, and 
people had been seen passing on foot as early as 
half-past seven to Gairloch. At half-past four 
Beatrice, the Duchess of Roxburglie, and I started 
in a four-oared gig, steered by Hormsby the land- 
lord, a very nice, quiet, youngish man, and rowed 



ca-- 



■a 



.U=3 



-a 



fl 



ft 



t, off 
Dwan 
^here 

We 
)king 
ipeak 
the 
t and 

very 

came 

, with 

oman, 

I the 
t least 
th her 

some 
jwcnty 
Is no 
and 
.rly as 
four 
Itarted 
land- 
•owed 



( 355 ) 

to the Isle of Marce {'' Eilan Maree*'), which 
is not visible from the house, bein(^ concealed by 
some of the larger islands. Contrary to what is 
stated in the Guide, it is the smallest of them. 
It was delightful rowing through these wooded 
and rocky islands, with the blue, calm loch — not 
another sound but the oars — the lovely blue and 
purple distant hills on the one side, and the 
splendid peaks of Ben Sleach and its surrounding 
mountains on the other. 

The boat was pushed on shore, and we 
scrambled out and walked through the tangled 
underwood and thicket of oak, holly, birch, ash, 
beech, etc., which covers the islet, to the well, 
now nearly dry which is said to be celebrated 
for the cure of insanity. An old tree stands close 
to it, and into the bark of this it is the custom, 
from time immemorial, for every one who goes 
there to insert with a hammer a copper coin, 
as a sort of offering to the saint who lived there 
in the eighth century, called Saint Maolruabh or 
Mulrcy. The saint died n^^r App leer oss m y 22, 
and is said to have rested under a rock, which is 
still shown, close to Torricion. Some say that the 
name of Maree was derived from " Mulrojy,'' others 



r;] 



ft 



" Li 



f 



■a 






( 356 ) 

from " Afary." We hammered some pennies into 
the tree, to the branches of which there are also 
rags and ribbons tied. We then went on to where 
there are some old grave-stones : two belonged 
to the tomb of a Norweoi;\n or Danish j rincess, 
about whose untimely death there is a romantic 
story. Tlicre are also modern graves, and only 
eight years ago one of the family of the McLeans 
was buried there, the island being their burying- 
placc. The remains of the old wall of the 
monastery are still to h^ seen. The island is 
barely a quarter of a mile across at the widest 
part, and not above half a mile in circumference. 
Some of the larger islands have red deer on them. 
We walked along the beach and picked up stones, 
then rowed back as we had come. It took about 
twenty minutes. Four very respectable-looking 
men (one a very good-looking young farmer) rowed 
the boat. After landing, we got into the waggon- 
ette and drove to a bridge just beyond where 
the trees cease on the Gairloch Road, about two 
miles from the hotel. Here we first took our 
tea, and then got out and scrambled up a steep 
bank to look at a waterfall, a pretty one, but very 
inferior to those in our neighbourhood at Bal- 




^ 



ff 



■a 



a- 



tti 



' I 



( 357 ) 

moral \ walked down again and drove home by a 
quarter-past seven. 

Reading ; writing. Beatrice's room is a very 
pretty one, but very hot, being over the kitchen 
Brown's, just o[)posite, also very nice and not hot, 
but smaller. After dinner the Duchess of Rox- 
burghe read a little out of the newspapers. Saw 
Sir William Jenner. 

Monday, September 17. 

A splendid bright morning, like July! Have 
had such good nights since we came, and my own 
comfortable bed. Sketched and painted after 
breakfast. At ten minutes past eleven walked 
out with Beatrice the same way as yesterday, and 
turned up to the ri^^ht ..id looked at the farm, 
where the horses for the coach are kept. Tliis 
coach is like a great break, and is generally 
full of people ; we met it each morning when out 
walking. We then went on past Talladale, where 
lives the old man to whom we spoke on Thursday, 
and whom we saw get off the coach this morning, 
havino- been to Gairloch for church, of which he is 
an elder. Here three or four very poorly dressed 
bairns were standing and sitting about, and w'e 



'^■•M 'I 



tf 



q^- 



-ff 



I 



cS- 



a 



( 358 ) 

gave them biscuits and sandwiches out of the 
luncheon' box. The midg^es are dreadful, and you 
cannot stand for a moment without being stung. 
In at twenty minutes to one. I remained sketching 
the lovely views from the windows in the dining- 
room, and then sketched the beautiful mountain 
also. 

After luncheon some doubt as to what should be 
done, but decided not to go to Pool Ewt, beyond 
Gairloch, but on to Kerries Bridge to meet the 
good people who had asked permission to come 
over from Stornoway, in th'^ Isle of Lewis, to see 
" their beloved Queen." Drew again. At ten 
minutes past four we two and the Duchess of 
Roxburghf started in the waggonette, General 
Ponsonby and Brown on the box. We went by 
the same pretty winding road ; but the Kerrie 
Falls were not nearly so full as on Friday after 
the heavy rain. 

As we approached Kerries Bridge, we saw a 
number of people standing on the road, and we 
drew up to where they were and stopped the car- 
riage. General Ponsonby presented the minister, 
Mr. Greenfield, who had come over with them. 
They sang "God save the Queen " with most 



!»' 



fr^ 



■ff 



1 .tiiM»».iV - • . - ' 



._ g^ 



(& 



--^ 



-4 



( 359 ) 

loyal warmth ; and their friendly faces and ring- 
ing cheers, when we arrived and when we left, 
were very gratifying. It took them three hours 
to come over, and they were going straight back. 
There were two hundred and fifty of them of all 
classes, from the verv well dressed down to the 
poorest, and many fishermen amongst them. We 
met many of these on Saturday coming back from 
having sold their fish, and also on the coaches. 
As we returned, we met the coach where there 
was only just room to pass. 

We stopped after we had got up to the top 
of the hill, overlooking the falls, and took our 
tea (already made, and brought with us), but 
were much molested by midges. We drove to 
above SlaUerdale, v/here there is such a splendid 
view of the loch and of Ben Sleach ; and the 
hills looked so beautifully pink. Vv/'e walked on 
down to the small waterfall which we visited yes- 
terday, and then drove home (General Ponsonby 
having walked back) by half-past seven. Reading 
and writing. Continued telegrams. General Pon- 
•sonby and Sir William Jenner dined also with us. 
. Got a few trifles from Gairloch, though very 
few were to be had, to give as souvenirs to my 



t& 



W 



[fl- 





i'i 



-a 



( 350 ) 

good people. Brown's leg, though he had to stand 
so much, did not hurt him, which I was thanklul 
for, and he has waited at all our meals, made my 
coffee in the morning, etc. I was sorry it was our 
last night here, and would have liked to stay two 
or three days longer ; but dear Arthur has been, 
since Saturday, at Balmoral, and he must leave 
again on the 29th. Have enjoyed this beautiful 
spot and glcrious scenery very much. The litde 
house was cozy and very quiet, and there were 
no constant interruptions as at home. Only dear 
Beatrice suffered much from rheumatism, which 
was very vexatious. Nearly opposite is a Mr. 
Banks's place, called Lcllcr Ezue, which he lets. 

Tuesday, Scpkiubcr 18. 

A wet, misty morning, no hills whatever to be 
seen. Got up early and breakfasted at half-past 
eight, and at a quarter to nine we left with regret 
our nice cozy little hotf^l at Loch Maree, which I 
hope I may some day see again. Changed horses 
at KinlocJieivc. The beautiful scenery was much 
obscured, but it got better as we went on, though 
it was not a really fine day. At a little before 



^ 



-ff 



a- 



-a 



( 361 ) 

half-past eleven we reached Achnashecn, where 
Mr. (now Sir Alexander) Matheson, M.P. (who 
IS chairman of the railway company, and has 
property farther nortli), met us. Here we got 
into the train, and went on without stopping to 
Dmgwall; Strathpeffer, and Castle Lead, which 
belongs to the Duchess of Sutherland, pardy hid- 
den among trees, looked very pretty. The lochs 
oiUiichart and Garve are most picturesque. We 
stopped at Dingwall, and Keil/i, and Dyce [nnc 
lion as before. We had our luncheon at one 
o'clock, before coming to Kcii/i, and tea after the 
Dyce Junction. Dear Noble was so good on 
the railway, and cdso at Loch Maree, where he 
came to our meals ; but he was lost without his 
companions. 

We reached Ballater at six. A very threaten- 
ing evening. Such dark, heavy clouds, and the 
air much lighter than at Loch Maree. We reached 
Balmoral at a quarter to seven. Dear Arthur 
received us downstairs, and came up with us and 
stayed a little while with me. He had been out 
deer-stalking these two davs, but got nothino-. 



fr-- 



■ff 






a 



( 362 ) 



i 
■ 


« 








^ 



Visit to Brox mouth. 



Friday, August 23, 1878. 

Had to dine at half-past five. At six o'clock, with 
much regret, left dear Osdjrne, with Beatrice and 
Leopold, and embarked on board the " Alberta " at 
Trinity Pier. We had a delightful passage, but 
the weather looked very threatening behind us. 
Passing close to the " Osborne," we saw Bertie, Alix, 
the boys, and the King of Denmark standing on 
the paddle-box. As we steamed across we saw 
the poor " Eurydice " lying close off what is called 
'^ No Mans Land'' as we had seen her the day 
of the Review, in fearful contrast to the beautiful 
fleet ! We at once entered the railway train ; 
poor Sir J. Garvock (who has resigned) was too 
ill to appear. We stopped at Banbury for re- 
freshments, and I lay down after eleven o'clock. 
At Carlisle (at five or six in the morning) Lord 



-^ 



[& 



■•~Ei 



B- 



( 363 ) 

Brldport, Harriet Phlpps. and Mary Lascelles 
(who had joined at Banbury), Fraulein Bauer, 
and two of my maids left us to go to Balmoral, 
while Janie Ely, General Ponsonby, Sir W. Jenner, 
Mr. Yorke, Brown, Emilie, Annie, and three foot^ 
men went on with us to Broxmouth. 



' 1 
■J' 



Saturday, August 2, 

Had not a very good night, and was suffering 
from a rather stiff shoulder. It was a very wet 
morning. At Dunbar, which we reached at a 
quarter to nine (where the station was very 
prettily decorated), were the Duke and Duchess 
of Roxburghe, the Grant-Sutties, the Provost, 
and Lord Haddington. Lord- Lieutenant of the 
county. We got into one of my closed landaus- 
Beatrice, Leopold, the Duchess of Roxburghe, 
and I— the others following, and drove through a 
small portion o{ Dunbar, Lord Haddington riding 
to Broxmouth, about a mile and a quarter from 
Dunbar. People all along the road, arches and 
decorations on the few cottages, and very loyal 
greetings. 



-ff 



»vm 





^^ <=°"W see dimly as T / " *" =^^> ^'"^h 
^■"e house is a„7„;«r,f;°- '^^"^ ^un.ar. 
■something like Cw" ^ "«^ °"^' "'^ exterior 
-'d witl^out .ny ZZt:T' "°' =° handsome, 

'' ''- been added rafdlr ""^ '° ^''^ ^•"-"«' 
m-ch improved and f r"' """^^' ■''"d was 

-w.wL,,vedThte"™:';:vr'"'^^"^'='^ 

conseq„entlyon one side ther.K °" ^ ''"P*^' 

on the other. Th« hous! " ''°''y "'"^^ than 

beyond which i a iT; '' '"'<=^<=^ ''^ ^ ^mali hall. 
°" one side and door. 07.,'°''"^ '' ^''* "'"''"-^ 

t';e left and ,oinrstrif:„"f- ^-'■"•^ - 
^'tfng-room (the Duchesr • '=*""^ '° ^Y 

bow-windows down tt h ""'"S^— )■ with 

fo«ab,y arranged. Nex\ ,f T".^' ^^ -O' com- 
'«o .t was Beatrice's sittinVrn. "°' "^'"''"^ 
somely furnished room " "^"'°r' '' ^"^^ ''^"d- 

«" the other side "^^alt^f ^^^'■"^-^-'"• 
very nice and well U^n^l f ""^ '''ning-roon,- 

;PPO«i. BeatricS ^r ^ Hetar^^^ ^^^ 
'arge, and below it von , ^'^ircase, also not 
had a room. The sfat ' ", \^^'''' Leopold 
'■•ke the lower one 2 "bed "'^ °" ^ ~™''- 

My bedroom isjust over the 





a 



a 



a 



d avenues, 
sea, which 
\ Dwibar. 
e exterior 
handsome, 
: entrance. 
, and was 
e Duke's 
L a slope ; 
more than 
small hall> 
I windows 
urning to 
le to my 
m), with 
ery corn- 
opening 
y hand- 
kg-room. 
[room — 
Just 
[Iso not 
.eopold 
lorridor 
rer the 



( 365 ) 

sitting-room, with a nice little dressing-room to 
the right next to it (the Duchess's room). Next 
to ^he bedroom on the other side my two maids' 
rooms, then Janie Ely's, and beyond Beatrice's, 
and the maids' at the end ; just outside the corri- 
dor. Brown's. All most comfortable. We came 
down almost directly again, and had (we three) 
an excellent breakfast in the dining-room. Brown 
waited on us with a footman, Cannon, who had 
gone on before. Charlie Thomson, Lockwood, 
and Shorter (a new footman) came with us. 

As it was raining I did not go out, but soon 
afterwards went upstairs. After dressing, came 
down and rested, and read and wrote. Saw Lady 
Susan Suttie and her two very pretty daughters, 
Harriet (Haddie), like Susan Dalrymple, only 
much darker. Rested on the sofa, and while 
there received the very startling and distressing 
account of dear Madame Van de Weyer's death, 
which affected me much. It came direct and 
was given me straight, there being no telegraph 
in the house. At home this would not have hap- 
pened. Sent to tell Brown, who was very much 
shocked. 

She was not, of course, the friend her beloved 



-ff 



^ 



& 



Cll~* 



i,| \ . 



i^ 



fb 



^ 



( 366 ) 

and honoured husband was ; but we saw so much 
of her with him ever since 1840, and so much of 
them both when they were at Abergeldie in 1867, 
1 868, and 1 8 70. They were always most kind to us 
and to our children, who grew up with theirs; and 
when my great sorrow came, who was kinder and 
more ready to help than dear M. Van de Weyer ? 
Then, after his and his poor son Albert's death, 
she talked so openly to me, and I tried to comfort 
her. Dear pretty New Lodge,* kept just as he 
left it, was ever a pleasure for us to go to, as 
there was still a sort of reflected light from former 
times, when he charmed every one. To feel that 
for us it is gone for ever is dreadful, and upset me 
very much. Another link with the past gone ! — 
with my beloved one, with dearest Uncle Leopold, 
and with Belgiiim \ I feel ever more and more 
alone ! Poor Louise Van de Weyer, who has been 
everything to her mother since Albert's death, 
and Nellie, how I feel for them! It was only on 
the 1 6th that their sister Alice was married to 
the youngest brother of poor Victoria's husband, 
Mr. Brand. 

I had tea with Beatrice, and at a quarter-past 
• It is close to Windsor. 



W 



i*i 



[& 



•~B] 



( 367 ) 

five, the weather having cleared, drove out with 
her, the Duke of Roxburghe, and Leopold ; Lady 
Ely, the Duke, General Ponsonby, and Mr. Yorke 
in the second carriage, and Lord Haddington on 
horseback in his uniform. We drove to and 
through Dimbar, escorted by the Easi Lothian 
Yeomanry. The town was beautifully decorated 
and admirably kept. There were triumphal arches, 
and many very kind inscriptions. We turned into 
the park in front of the house, formerly occupied 
by the Lord Lauderdale of that day, facing the 
old Castle of Diutbar (of which very little remains) 
to which Queen Mary was carried as a prisoner 
by Bothwell after the murder of Darnley, and 
where lies the harbour — a very small one. Thence 
past the old watch-tower hill, called Knockcnhair, 
where some gipsies — in fact, the "gipsy queen" 
— from Norwood had encamped ; and where we 
saw several women, very dark and rather hand- 
some and well dressed, standing close to the 
wall. 

On throucrh the small vilku^es of Belhavcn and 
West Barns by the paper mills, a large and rather 
handsome building, turning from the high road to 
the west lodge of Biel, Lady Mary Nisbet Hamil- 



ft 



fli 



a- 



I ' 



] 
i 

li 


u 







a 



( 368 ) 

ton's (dear Lady Augusta Stanley's elder sister) 
and past the house (a dull-looking stone one, but 
the park is fine), and by Belton, Mr. Baird Hay's, 
to Droxbitrn. Home by seven. There was a thick 
fog (or " haar," as they call it in Scofianc/) from 
the sea, which obscured all the distance, with 
occasionally some rain, but nothing to signify. 

Only ourselves, the Duke and Duchess, and 
Janie Ely to dinner, in the same dining-room. 
One of the Duke's people attended, besides 
Brown and one of our footmen. Went to my 
room soon after. Wrote a letter, but went early 
to bed — by twelve o'clock. 

Sunday, August 25. 

A fine hot morning. After breakfast, walked 
with Beatrice down under the trees to the left, 
along a broad walk next to the Broxburn, on to 
the end of the walk which led to the garden wall, 
on which roses were growing, and which is quite 
on the sea, which was of a deep blue. The rocks 
are very bad for boats. There is a walk along the 
top of the rocks that overhang the sea — the Litiks. 
This road goes on to Dunbar, which, with its fine 



fr- 



-^ 



a 



a 



a 



( 3''9 ) 

churcli that stands so hisrh as to be a landmark, 
is well seen from here. We walked back ag^ain, 
and I sat out near the house on the grass, under 
one of the small canopies which we had brought 
with us, and signed papers and wrote. At twelve 
there was service in the dining-room, performed 
by Mr. Buchanan of Dunbar, who had been 
for some little time tutor to Lord Charles Ker. 
Beatrice, Janie Ely, the Duke and Duchess, 
General Ponsonby, Mr. Yorke, and the Duke's 
upper servants were present. It was very well 
performed. Afterwards wrote and rested. Se- 
lected presents for the servants in the house, and 
things from Dunbar for my people. 

At a quarter-past five, after tea, drove out 
with Beatrice, the Duchess, and Janie Kly, in the 
landau and four. The afternoon very bright and 
fine. We drove on towards England, in the oppo- 
site direction from yesterday's drive and parallel 
to the sea, though well inland. The sea of a 
deep blue, but a haze so dense that the distance 
could hardly be seen. We drove past Baring 
Hill (Sir William Miller's) to Dunglass (Sir Basil 
Hall's), a most beautiful place with splendid trees, 
firs like those near t\\& Bclvidcre in Windsor Pa7'k, 



I 



t 



a ■ 



^ 



4ni 



a 



a 



( 



j/' 



) 



sycamores, beech, oak, etc. The road passes above 
a deep ravine, at the bottom of which flows the 
Brox, and past the ruins of an old abbey or castle. 
The house itself (at the door of which we stopped 
for a few minutes to speak to Sir Basil and Lady 
Hall) is a lar^e, rather dreary- looking stone house 
with columns. It must formerly have belonged 
to the Home family. The distance was so hazy 
that, as we drove there, we could with great diffi- 
culty faintly discern Si. Abb's Head* and the point 
on the Wolf's Craig mentioned in the " Bride of 
Lammermoor." Coming back we took a long 
round inland, down steepish hills, through the very 
picturesque villages of Bratikcstoti and Innerivick. 
Home at half-past seven. Dinner as yesterday 
with the Duke and Duchess of Roxburghe, with 
the addition of Lord Haddino'ton and General 
Ponsonby. Lord Haddington's father (who was 
for a short time one of my lords in waiting, but 
never took a waiting) was brother to the late 
beautiful Marchioness of Breadalbane (wife of 
my dear old Lord Breadalbane), to the present 
Dowager Lady Aberdeen, to the late Lady 

* Belonging to Mi. Home Drummond Moray of Blair 
Drummond and Abercairny. 



i& 



# 



'^~Q} 



cS- 



a 



{ 371 ) 

Polwarth, and the present Dowager Lady Ash- 
burnham. 

After dinner the other gentlemen were pre- 
sented, including Mr. Buchanan, who seems a 
very nice person. Then went to my room, and 
Janie Ely stayed with me a short while. 

Mo7iday, Attgtist 26. 

Again this dear and blessed anniversary returns, 
and again without my beloved blessed One ! But 
he is ever with me in spirit. 

When I came down to breakfast, I gave Beatrice 
a mounted enamelled photograph of our dear 
Mausoleum, and a silver belt of Montenegrin 
workmanship. After breakfast I gave my faith- 
ful Brown an oxidised silver biscuit-box, and 
some onyx studs. He was greatly pleased with 
the former, and the tears came to his eyes, and 
he said " It is too much." God knows, it is not, 
for one so devoted and faithful. I gave my maids 
also trifles from Du7ibar ; and to Janie Ely, the 
gentlemen, and the servants a trifle each, in remem- 
brance of the dear day and of the place. 

Walked out at half-past ten with Beatrice and 



■ff 



fr- 



tf 




f! 

m 




If 



a- 



^ 



( 



372 



) 



the Duchess to the very fine kitchen-garden, and 
into the splendid hothouse where they have mag- 
nificent gfapes. The peaches are also beautiful. 
From here we walked again along the burnside to 
the sea, the Duchess's pretty and very amiable 
collie (smaller than Noble, but with a very hand- 
some head), Rex, going with us. We looked at 
the " Lord Warden" (Captain Freemantle) which 
arrived yesterday from Spithead, where we saw 
her in the Fleet. She had been guardship last 
year. 

There is a pretty view from this walk to the sea 
over a small lake, with trees, beyond wliich Dunbar 
is seen in the distance. Then I sat out in the 
garden and wrote. After that, when Beatrice re- 
turned from a walk near the sea with the Duchess, 
I went to look at the gravestone of Sir William 
Douglas, which is quite concealed am.ongst the 
bushes near the lawn, The battle oi Dunbar took 
place (September 3, 1650) close to B^'oxmouth, and 
Sir Walter Scott says Cromwell's camp was in the 
park ; but this is aoubtful, as it is described as on 
the north of the Broxburn. Leslie s camp was on 
Donne Hill, conspicuous for mile"? round. When 
the Scottish army left their strong position on the 



-a 



w 



-a 



cB" 



ft 



e sea 

mbar 

the 

e re- 

hess, 

Ham 

the 

took 

and 

the 

on 

on 

hen 

the 



( m ) 

hili, they came to the low ground near the park 
wall. Cromwell is said to have stood on the hillock 
where the tower in the grounds has been built, 
and the battle must have been fought close to 
the present park gate. I afterwards planted a 
deodara on the lawn, in the presence of the Duke 
and Duchess. 

Indoors near one o'clock. Directly after our 
usual luncheon we saw Lady Susan Suttie with 
her two youngest children — Victoria, eleven years, 
and a boy of nine — and afterwards Lord and 
Lady Bowmont and their two fine children — the 
eldest, Margaret, three, and the youngest, Victoria, 
nine months. The boy did not come. 

At half-past three started with Beatrice. Leopold, 
and the Duchess in the landau and four, the 
Duke, Lady Ely, General Ponsonby, and Mr. 
Yorke going in the second carriage, and Lord 
Haddington riding the whole way. We drove 
through the west part of Dimbar, which was very 
full, and where we were literally pelted with small 
nosegays, till the carriage was full of them, by a 
number of young ladies and girls ; then on for 
some distance past the village of Bel haven, Knoch- 
indale Hill, where were stationed, in their best 



w 



=& 



# 



ill 



c& 



l/l'i: 



iife 




a 



( 374 ) 

attire, the queen of the gipsies, an oldish woman 
with a yellow har.d kerchief on her head, and a 
youngish, very dark, and truly gipsy-like woman 
in velvet and a red shawl, and another woman. 
The queen is a thorough gipsy, with a scarlet cloak 
and yellow handkerchief round her head. Men 
in red hunting- coats, all very dar!:, and all stand- 
ing on a platform here, bowed and waved their 
handkerchiefs. It was the English queen of the 
gipsies from Norwood, and not the Scottish border 
one. 

We next passed the paper mills, where there 
were many people, as indeed there were at every 
little village and in every direction. We turned 
to the right, leaving the Traprain Law, a pro- 
minent hill, to the left, crossed the Tyne, and 
entered the really beautiful park of ryni7igham — 
Lord Haddington's. More splendid trees and 
avenues of beech and sycamore, and one very 
high holly hedge. The drive under the avenues 
is very fine, and at the end of them you see the 
sea (we could, however, see it but faintly because 
of the haze). We passed close to the house, a 
handsome one, half Elizabethan, with small Scotch 
towers, and a very pretty terrace garden, but did 



tg- 



^ 



-a 



n 



pro- 

and 
am — 

and 
very 
nues 
c the 
:ause 
se, a 
lotch 

did 



-ff 



ft 



( 375 ) • 

not get out. Driving on through the park, which 
reminded me of Windscr and Wmdsor Forest, 
we again came upon the high road and passed by 
Whitekirk, a very fine old church, where numbers 
of people were assembled, and very soon after we 
saw through the haze the high hill of North Ber- 
wick Law, looking as though it rose up out of the 
sea, and another turn or two brought us to Tan- 
tallon, which is close to and overhangs the sea. 
We drove along the grass to the old ruins, which 
are very extensive. Sir Hew Dalrymple, to 
whom it belongs, received us, and took us over 
the old remains of the moat, including the old 
gateway, on which the royal standard had been 
hoisted. Lady Dalrymple (a Miss Arkwright) 
received us. No one else was there but Sir David 
Baird, who had joined us on the way on horseback. 
Sir Hew Dalrymple showed me about the ruins 
of this very ancieut castle, the stronghold of the 
Douglases. It belonged once to the Earl of 
Angus, second husband to Queen Margaret (wife 
of James IV.), and was finally taken by the 
Covenanters. 

It was unfortunately so hazy that we could not 
distinguish the Bass Rock, though usually it is 



^^- 



W 



a 




iifff^ 



ft 



eg. 



( 376 ) 

quite distinctly seen, being so near; and all the 
fine surrounding coast was quite invisible. Ihere 
was a telescope, but we could see nothnig through 
it ; it was, besides, placed too low. Seated on 
sofas near the ledge of the rock, we had some tea, 
and the scene was extremely wild.- After this we 
left, being a good deal hurried to get back (as it 
was already past six), and returned partly the 
same way, by Binninj^ Wood, also belonging to 
Lord Haddington (which reminds one of Windsor 
Forest), but which we could not drive through, 
through Tyninghain village to Delloivford, v/here 
the cross road turned off. This brought us sooner 
back, and we reached Broxmouth by twenty-five 
minutes to eight. Lord Haddington riding the 
whole way. 

We dined at half-past eight, only the Duke 
and Duchess of Roxburghe with ourselves. At 
ten or eleven o'clock we left Broxmouth with 
regret, as we had spent a most pleasant time 
there. We went in the same carriage (a landau), 
the Duchess of Roxburghe with us, and were 
driven by the same horses which had been out 
each day, including this day's long drive, the 
postilion Thomson riding admirably. Dunbar 







fb 



m- 



-a 



( S77 ) 



was very prettily illuminated, and the paper mills 
also. We took leave of the kind Duke* and 
Duchess with real regret, having enjoyed our 
visit gready. All had gone off so well. 

, * He died April 23, 1879. 



I 



-ff 



ffl- 



rri 



cB^" 




■^ 



( 378 ) 



Death of Sir Thomas Biddulph, at Aber- 
GELDiE Mains, September 28, 1878. 



Wednesday, September 25, 1878. 

At: twenty minutes to five drove in the waggon- 
ette with the Duchess of Roxburghe and Harriet 
Phipps to the Glen Gelder S/iiel, and had tea 
there ; and then drove to Abergeldie Mains, 
where Sir Thomas Biddulph h:id been very ill for 
a wesk. We got out, and I went upstairs and 
saw Mary (Lady) Biddulph. Sir William Jenner 
came into the drawing-room, and said Sir Thomas 
would like to see me. I went to his room with 
Sir William, and found Sir Thomas in bed, much 
the same as when I saw him on Saturday, looking 
very ill, but able to speak quite loud. He said 
" I am very bad I " I stood looking at him, and 
took his hand, and he said, " You are very kind 



t&- 



w 




c& 



AUER- 

8. 



1878. 

waggon- 
Harriet 
lad tea 
Mains, 
^ ill for 
rs and 
Jenner 
homas 
n with 
much 
loking 
2 said 
1, and 
' kind 



-ff 



-a 



( 379 ) 

to me," and I answered, pressing his hand, " You 
have always been very kind to mer I said I 
would come again, and left the room. 

Saturday, September 28, 1878. 

At eleven o'clock started off with Beatrice for 
Abergeldie Mains to inquire after Sir Thomas. 
I went upstairs, and Blake, the former nurse, 
came in much distressed, saying how ill he was.' 
Then she asked if I would like to look at him, 
which I did from the door. We (Beatrice and I) 
were both much upset. We left, intending to re- 
t Jrn in the afternoon, and got back to Balmoral by 
a quarter to twelve. Sat writing in the garden- 
cottage. While I was writing, at a quarter to one 
Brown came round with a note in his hand, cry- 
ing, and said " It's all over ! " It was from Sir 
William, saying that dear "Sir Thomas passed 
away at twenty minutes past twelve. Lady 
Biddulph as well as the children were with him 
to the last." We were so distressed that we had 
not remained at the house, and Brown so vexed 
and so kind and feeling. Dreadful ! Such a loss ! 
Dear Sir Thomas was such an excellent, honest. 



A^' 



-j:3 



,- 1 


»i1 

1 


i 

i. 



■%m) 






t& 



( 380 ) 

upright, wonderfully unselfish and disinterested 
man — so devoted to me and mine. Under a 
somewhat undemonstrative exterior, he was the 
kindest and most tender-hearted of men. How 
terrible is this loss for his poor, poor wife and the 
children who adored him ! 



Thursday, October 3, 1878. 

A most lovely, almost summer day, and very 
warm. At a quarter-past ten drove wirh Bea- 
trice, the Duchess of Roxburghe, and Lady Ely 
(Harriet Phipps, Fraulein Bauer, and the gentle- 
men having gone on before), to Abei'geldie Mains. 
We got out and went into the dining-room, where 
the coffin was placed. Poor Mary Biddulph and 
her two children received us there. Her brother, 
Captain Conway Seymour, and the female servants, 
ourselves, and the ladies were present. No men 
came into the room ; they remained in the hall, 
the door being left open. Mr. Campbell came in a 
few minutes afterwards, and performed a short 
but very impressive service, just reading a few 
verses from Scripture, and offering up a beautiful 
prayer. The coffin left the house directly after, 



•a 



^s— 



-ff 



ii«-i 







' '^ • ^K iof^ mm-m ** 



--& 



isinterested 
Under a 
le was the 
len. How 
ife and the 



3. 1878. 

and very 
wivh Bea- 
-ady Ely 
lie gentle- 
'i'e Mains. 
•ni, where 
ulph and 
• brother, 
servants, 
No men 
the hall, 
ifne in a 
a short 
? a few 
)eautiful 
\y after, 



-J 




( 3.8r ) 
followed by Captain Conwav <^ 
and his three gentlemen J^ pT°"'' ^^^^'^ 
Ponsonby, Sir W n'r r ^''^^''''' ^^"^^^^1 

followed i;t J; tioi'^^^ "' ^^- ^-^-* 

Ma.duffandColo^„:/;4rr"^^^''^^ 

the same train with^he honoured 1 " "r' " 
dear husband to Windsor ""' ^^ ^^' 

My Commissioner sinr^ \r«, u 
man, universally beloved. ^°^^"^ber 1875 ; an excellent 



^- 




i^M 1 



tS- 



^ 



( 38J ) 



Memorial Cross to the Princess Alice, 
^ Grand Duchess of Hesse. 



Balmoral, 
May 22, 1879. 

We arrived at Balmoral at a quarter-past three. 
At a quarter to six walked with Beatrice to look 
at the Cross which I have now put up to my 
darling Alice. It is in Aberdeenshire granite, 
twelve feet three inches high. It is beautiful. 
The inscription is ; — 

TO THE DEAR MEMORY 
OF 

ALICE, GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE, 
Princess of Great Biitain am! Ireland, 

Born April 25, 1843, Died De*:. 14, 1878, 

this is erected 
by her sorrowing mother 

QUEEN VICTORIA. 
• TJer name shall live, though now she is no more." 



a 



# 



a 



lLIci:, 



'illy 

1879. 

St three, 
to look 
to my 
granite, 
^autiful. 



# 




v-i 



^^ 



"'**«^*'*»*«'«***«U**«***»,»»#A«. 



im 






5 a 



m- 




I 



a- 



a 



( 383 ) 

We then walked on to Donald Stewart's, where 
we vent li, thence down to Grant's. In both 
places they were quite overcome to see us after 
darling Alice's loss, and pC' r: Crant began sobbing 
and could not come into the room where we were.* 
The arrival at Balmoral to-day was most sad. 
Everything came before me — the dreadful anxiety 
about little Ernie.f the sorrow about dear little 
May, J and the anxiety about the others. And, 
to crown all, the thought of darling Alice gone, 
and, after her, dear little Waldie.J 

• Grant died November 17, 1878, in his 70th year, at 
Robrec, close to Balmoral, where he had lived since 1875, 
when he was pensioned, and where we went very often to see 
him. I visited him almost daily during the last days of his 
hfe, and was present at the funeral service at his house (No- 
vember 21). He is buried in the churchyard at Braemar. 

t Alice's son, who, with four of his sisters and his father, 
was lying ill of diphtheria in November, 

X Dear Alice's youngest child, who died of diphtheria 
November 16, 1878. We received the news while we were at 
Balmoral. 

§ Prince Waldemar, the Crown Princess ot Germany's third 
and youngest son, who died of diphtheria on March 27 of this 
year. 



f&- 



■^ 



VfP 



m 



': i 



tfl- 



( 384 ) 



ft 



IP 



Is. 

[I 



>& 



Death of the Prince Imperial. 
June 1879. 



Balmoral Castle^ 
T/iursaay, Jtme 19, 1879, 

At twenty minutes to eleven Brown knocked 
and came in, and said there was bad news ; and 
when I, in alarm, asked what, he replied, " The 
young French Prince is killed ; " and when I 
could not take it in, and asked several times .vhat 
it meant, Beatrice, who then came in with the 
telegram in her hand, said, " Oh ! the Prince 
Imperial is killed!" I feel a sort of thrill of 
horror now while I write the words. 

I put my hands to my head and cried out, 
" No, no ! it cannot, cannot be true ! It can't be ! " 
And then dear Beatrice, who was crying very 
much, as I did too, gave me the annexed tele- 
gram from Lady Frere : — 



tP 



^ 



fb 



a- 



«- 



( 385 ) 

Government House, Cape Town June 19, 1879. 

To General Sir Henry Ponsonby, Balmoral Castk.~For 
the Information of Her Majesty the Queen. 

The melancholy tidings have been telegraphed from 
Natal, that the Prince Lnperial, when out on a re- 
connaissance from Colonel Wood's camp on the ist of 
June, was killed by a number of Zulus concealed in a 
field m which the Prince Imperial and his party had 
dismounted to rest and feed their horses. No official 
particulars yet received by me. The Prince Imperial's 
body found and buried with full military honours at 
Camp Itelezi, and after being embalmed will be con 
veyed to England. This precedes the press telegrams 
by one hour. I have sent to Lord Sydney to beg him 
if possible, to break the sad intelligence to the Empress' 
before the press telegrams arrive. 

To die in such an awful, horrible way ! Poor, 
poor dear PZmpress! her only, only child— her all 
gone ! And such a real misfortune ! I was quite 
beside myself ; and both of us have hardly had 
another thought since. 

We sent for Janie Ely, who was in the house 
when he was born, and was so devoted to him ; 
and he was so good ! Oh ! it is too, too awful i 
The more one thinks of it, the worse it is ! I was 



"R 



r c 






If! 



!1 



C& 



( 386 ) 

in the greatest distress. Brown so distressed ; 
every one quite stunned. Got to bed very late ; it 
was dawning ! and little sleep did I get. 



Friday, yune 20. 



Had 



awful 



Dad, restless niglit, haunted by t 
event, seeing those horrid Zulus constantly before 
me, and thinking of the poor Empress, who did 
not yet know it. W p in good time. 

My accession day, forty-two years ago ; but 
no thought of it in presence of this frightful 
event 

Had written many telegrams last night. One 
came from Lord Sydney, saying he wa^ goi"g 
down early this morning to break this dreadful 
news to the poor afflicted mother. How dread- 
ful ! Received distressed and horrified telegrams 
from some of my children. Heard by telegram 
also from Sir Stafford Nor u^ that the news 
arrived in the House of Con ' ons ; that much 
sympathy had been shown. It came to Colonel 
Stanley. Telegraphed to many. 

Packed my boxes with Brown. Was so horri- 
fied. Always, at Bahnoral in May or June, 



f&- 






-ff 






a 



[&-■ 



-'fl] 



I 



-ff 



( 387 ) 

dreadful news, cr news of deaths of Royal persons, 
come, obliging the State parties to be put off. 

At twenty minutes past eleven drove to Donald 
Stewart's and got out to say " Good-bye," as well 
as to the Profeits, and stopped at the door of the 
shop to wish Mrs. Symon good-bye, and also at 
Brown's house, to take leave of the Hugh Browns. 
Home at twenty minutes past twelve. Writing. 

Received a telegram from Lord Sydney, say- 
ing that he had informed the poor dear Empress 
of these dreadful news. She could not believe 
it for some time, and was afterwards quite over- 
whelmed. 

How dreadful ! Took luncheon with Beatrice 
in my darling Albert's room. Beatrice was much 
upset, as indeed we all were. Even those who 
did not know them felt the deepest sympathy, 
and were in a state of consternation. He was so 
good and so much beloved. So strange that, 
as last time, our departure should be saddened, 
as, indeed, it has been every year, at least for 
three or four years, by the occurrence of deaths of 
great people or of relations. 

We left Balmoral at half-past one, Janie Ely 
and Leila ErroU (full of feeling) going with 



^ 



c c • 



& 



m £{,?<' ; 



m\ 



m 




m 



& 



t& 



( 388 ) 

Beatrice and me. It was a pity to leave when 
everything was in its greatest beauty. The Hiacs 
just preparing to burst. Near Ballater there was 
a bush of white lilac already out. The dust dread- 
ful. Very little whin, and far less of that beautiful 
broom, out, which was always such a pretty sight 
from the railway at this time of the year. We 
reached Aberdeen at twenty-eight minutes to four, 
and soon after had our tea. 

At the Bridge of Dun we got newspapers with 
some of the sad details. Thence we turned off 
and passed aj.,^ain close to the sea by Arbroath, 
East Haven, Carnoustie (where poor Symon went 
and got so ill he had to be taken back), all lying 
low, with golf links near each, and the line passing 
over long grass strips with mounds and small in- 
dentations of the sea, such as ?rft seen near sands, 
where there are no rocks and the coast is flat ; but 
the ground rises as you approach Dundee. 

We reached the Tay Bridge station at six. 
Immense crowds everywhere, flags waving in 
every direction, and the whole population out ; 
but one's heart was too sad for anything. The 
Provost, splendidly attired, presented an address. 
Ladies presented beautiful bouquets to Beatrice 



ft 



a 



" ""'•' " '• ■ ' ' " ' l ."H. I-t .ll l «H ^M^ 



'~& 



cB- 



ymg; 



( 389 ) 

and me. The last time I was at Dundee was 
in September 1844, just after Affie's birth, when 
we landed there on our way to £/air, and 
Vicky, then not four years old, the only child 
with us. was carried through the cro^^'d by old 
Renwic;<.* We embarked there also on our way 
back. 

We stopped here about five minutes, and then 
began going over the marvellous 2 ay Bridge., 
which is rather more than a mile c..id a half long.f 
It was begun in 1871. There were great diffi- 
culties in laying the foundation, and some lives 
were lost. It was finished in 1878. 

Mr. Bouch, who was presented at Dundee, 
was the engineer. It took us, I should say, about 
eight minutes going over. The view was very 
line. 

The boys of the training-ship, with their band, 
looked very well. The line through the beautifully 
wooded county cf Fife was extremely pretty, 
especially after Ladybank Jutiction, where we 

* Sergeant footman at the time, who died in 1871. 

t The Tay Bridge was destroyed in the same year (1879) in 
the giile of the night of December 29, when a whole train wi^h 
upwards of eighty passengers was precipitated into the Tay. 



-^ 



# 



^ 



# 



fl 



-a 



( 390 ) 

stopped for a few minutes, and where Mr. Balfour 
of Balbirnie brought a basket of flowers. We 
met him and his wife, Lady Georgiana, in Scot- 
land m 1842. We passed n^ds Loch Leven, with 
the ruined castle in which poor Queen Mary was 
confined (which we passed in 1842), stopping 
there a moment and in view of the " Lomondsy' 
past Dollar and Tillicoultry, the situation of 
which, in a wooded green valley at the foot of the 
hills, is quite beautiful, and reminded me of Italy 
and Sivitzerland, through Sauchie, Alloa, all manu- 
facturing towns, and then close under Wallaces 
Monument. We reached the Stirling Station, 
which was dreadfully crowded, at eighteen minutes 
past eight (the people everywhere very enthu- 
siastic), and after leaving it we had some good 
cold dinner, which reminded me much of our 
refreshments in the train during our charming 
Italian journey. 

W'e got Scotch papers as. we went along, 
giving harrowing details (all by telegraph) from 
the front, or rather from Natal to Cape Tozvn, 
then by ship to Madeira, pnd thence again by 
"telegraph here. Of nothing else could we think. 
Janie Ely got in at Beattock Summit, arjd went 



ft 



-;•- 







lii#-i 
I » 



^ 



Balfour 
s. We 
n Scof- 
n, with 
iry was 
opping 
nonds,'* 
ion of 

of the 
f naly 
manu- 
lUaces 
tatioHy 
inutes 
mthu- 

good 
^f our 



minpf 



ilong, 
from 

n by 
hink. 
went 




■ft 



(- 391 ), 

with us as far as Carlisle. She showed us a Dun- 
dee paper, called the "Evening Telegraph," which 
contained the fullest and most dreadful accounts. 
Monstrous ! To think of that dear young man, 
the apple of his mother's eye, born and nurtured 
in the purple, dying thus, is too fearful, too awful ; 
and inexplicable and dreadful that the others 
should not have turned round and fought for him. 
It is too horrible 1 






■T 
■ff 



^- 



w 



.!' 1 



i 



[& 



( 392 ) 



Home-coming of their Royal Highnesses 
THE Duke and Duchess of Connaught. 
September 1879. 



Balmoral Castle^ 
Friday, September 5, 1879. 

At two I started off with Beatrice and Janie Ely 
(Sir Henry Ponsonby and General Gardiner having 
gone on to Ballaier) in the landau and four, the 
postilions in blue, outriders in red, Brown in full 
dress, and Power behind our carriage. We ar- 
rived at four minutes to three, and waited in the 
carriage till we heard the traiii (special) was 
approaching, when we got out. In two or three 
minutes more they were there, and dear Arthur 
and Louise Margaret stepped out, and were 
warmly embraced by us. I gave her a nosegay 
of heather. She had also received others. The 
guard (Royal Scots) were out. 



■a 



^ 



# 



■"'*''''^*~**^r»«fWRs*i», 



Oj H ^mw iy i ■ 



a 



c& 



-a 



( 393 ) 

When we reached the Balmoral bridge, we 
went at a slow pace, passing under the arch com- 
posed of moss and heather, on which was wrought, 
in flowers, " Welcome to Bahiioral " on one side, 
and " Ceud mille Failte " on the other, " A. W." 
and " L. M." on the outside of each ; and there all 
the people stood — all our kilted people. The 
ladies and gendemen, including Lord Chelmsford 
and Mr. Cross, Christian Victor, and Albert 
(Helena's boys), and also the Misses Pitt, were 
there. 

Arthur spoke a few words from the carriage, 
and then Dr. Profeit said a few words; after 
which, preceded by the pipers playing, and all our 
kilted men and the rest following, we went at a 
very slow foot's pace to the Castle. 

At the gate three pretty litde girls of Colonel 
Clarke's (Bertie's equerry staying at Birkhall) 
threw nosegays into the carriage, one being of 
marguerites. Every one who was there followed 
on foot. 

Only Captain Fitzgerald came with Arthur and 
Louise Margaret. 

When we got out, everybody having come up, 
Dr. Profeit proposed Arthur's and Louischen's 



B- 



W 



c& 



-a 



( 394 > 

health, which every one drank with cheers. Arthur 
thanked. Then we went in, ^nd Arthur, Louis- 
chen, and the two boys took tea with us in the 
Hbrary. 



ifr 



SJ 



( 395 ) 



-a 



^ 



His Royal Highness the Duki. of 
Connaught's Cairn. 



Monday, September 8, 1879. 
A fine mornincr. Breakfasted with Beatrice 
Arthur, and Louischen in the garden cottage' 
and at eleven we started for Arthur's Tairn I 
on my pony "Jessie," Beatrice walking .0 the 
cop. We xvere met by Arthur and Louischen 
and went on to near the cairn, to the ridit of 
Campbell's path. I got off when we were near 
It ; and here were assembled all the ladies and 
gentlemen, also Dr. Profeit. the keepers and ser- 
vants belonging to the place with their families 
and almost all our servants from the house' 
When we had got to the top and had our glasses 
filled, and were standing close to the cairn Dr 
Profeit, with a few appropriate words compli- 
mentary to Arthur, and with many good wishes 



-EP 



[&"' 



a 



( 396 ) 

for both, proposed their health, which was drunk 
with three times three. Then Arthur, with great 
readiness, returned thanks in a litde speech. 
My heahh followed, also with loud cheering; and 
then Brown said they ought to drink the health 
of Princess Beatrice, which Cowley took up and 
proposed ; and it was received with many cheers. 
Fern (who with the other dogs was there) re- 
sented the cheering, and barked very much. We 
all placed a stone on the cairn, on which was 
inscribed — 

Arthi ;ke of Connaught and Strathearne, 

Matried to Princess Louise Margaret of Prusiia, 
March 13, 1879. 

After a {q\\ minutes we left, I walking down 
the whole way. We stopped at Dr. Profeit's on 
our way down, and here I got on my pony again. 



ta- 



-^ 



l * l. ii lM |l » i « 'i # ii M f i ,i 



-a 



i drunk 
h great 
speech, 
g; and 
health 
Lip and 
cheers, 
re) re- 
. We 
:h was 



INE, 



down 
it's on 



igain. 



-ff 



■: { 



i'PfHi 



,( 


1 




!C>raKI^'j 



cfl-- 



--a 



( 397 ) 



Visit to the Glen Gelder Shiel. 



o 



O" 



CQ S 



Balmoral, 
October 6, 1879. 

At ten minutes past four drove with the 
Empress Eug(^nie* (who had driven up from 
Abergeldic) in the victoria to the Glen Gelder Skiel, 
or Ruidh na Bhan Righ (the Queen's Shiel).' 
The evening was perfecdy beautiful, warm, and 
clear, and bright. The Empress was pleased 
with the little Shiel, which contains only two small 
rooms and a litde kitchen. It stands in a very 
wild solitary spot looking up to Lochnagar, which 
towers up immediately above the house, though to 
reach Lochnagar itself would take a very long 
time. We walked on along the footpath above 

• The Empress was staying at Abergeldie, to which I had 
urged her to come for a little quiet and change of air after her 
terrible misfortune. 



fQ- 






\B 



( 39S ) 

the Gelder for a mile and a half, the clogs, which 
had come up, following us, and the Empress talked 
a great deal, and most pleasantly, about former 
times. 

When we came back to the little Shiel, after 
walking for an hour, we had tea. Brown had 
caught some excellent trout and cooked them with 
oatmeal, which the dear Empress liked extremely, 
and said would be her dinner. It was a glorious 
evening — the hills pink, and the sky so clear. 

We got back at twenty minutes past six, and 
the Empress drove back to Abergeldie with her 
lady. 



tin 



4- 



fb 



^ 



. t-. ( 



. :iit: 'Ml-r -titlttlgyi l j jr mtl l' 



-a 



a- 



( 399 ) 



Victory of TrL-F.i.-KERiR and Home-coming 
OF THEIR Royal Highnesses the Duke and 
Duchess of Albany. September 1882. 



Monday, Sep f ember 11, 1882. 

Received a telegram in cipher from Sir John 
McNeill, marked very secret, saying that it was 
"determined to attack the enemy with a very 
large force on Wednesday." How anxious this 
made us, God only knows; and yet this long 
delay had also made us very anxious. No one to 
know, though all expected something at the time. 



-a 



-ff 



Tuesday, September 12. 

Drove at ten minutes to five, with Beatrice, 
Louischen, and Harriet, to the Glen G elder Shiel, 
where we had tea, and I sketched. The sky was 
so beautiful. We walked on the road back, and 



t- 



J 



a — 



fb 



ii 



Is-? 

Ib n 






^ 



( 400 ) 

came home at twenty minutes past seven. How 
anxious we felt, I need not say ; but we tried not 
to give way. Only the ladies dined with us. 

I prayed earnestly for my darling child, and 
longed for the morrow to arrive. Read Korner's 
beautiful " Gebet vor der Schlacht," " Vater, ich 
rufe Dich" (Prayer before the Batde, " Father, I 
call on Thee"). My belo\ > d husband used to sing 
it often. My thoughts were entirely fixed on Egypt 
and the coming battle. My nerves were strained 
to such a pitch by the intensity of my anxiety and 
suspense that tney seemed to feel as though they 
were all alive. 

Wednesday; Septe77iber 1 3. 

Woke very often. Raw and dull. Took my 
short walk, and breakfasted in the cottage. Had 
a telegram that the army marched out last night. 
What an anxious moment ! We walked after- 
wards as far as the arch for Leopold's reception, 
which was a very pretty one, and placed as nearly 
where it had been on previous occasions, only 
rather nearer Middleton's lodge, and thence back to 
the cottage, where I sat and wrote and signed, etc. 

Another telegram, also from Reuter, saying 



ff 



-a 



t 



a- 



( 401 ) 

that fighting was going on, and that the enemy 
had been routed with heavy loss at Tel-el-Kebir. 
Much agitated. 

On coming in got a telegram from Sir John 
McNeill, saying, "A great victory; Duke safe 
and well." Sent all to Louischen. The excite- 
ment very great. Felt unbounded joy and grati- 
tude for God's great goodness and mercy. 

The same news came from Lord Granville and 
Mr. Childers, though not yet from Sir Garnet 
Wolseley. A little later, just before two, came 
the following most welcome and gratifying telegram 
from Sir Garnet Wolseley : — 




my 

iHad 

ht. 

fter- 

|tion, 

arly 

nly 

c to 

etc. 

ing 



Ism alia ^ September 13, 1882. 

Tel-el-Kebir. — From Wolseley to the Queen, Balmoral. 

Attacked Arabi's position at five this morning. His 
strongly entrenched position was most bravely and 
gallantly stormed by the Guards and line, while cavalry 
and horse artillery worked round their left flank. At 
seven o'clock I was in complete possession of his whole 
camp. Many railway trucks, with quantities uf supplies, 
fallen into cur hands. Enemy completely routed, and 
his loss has been very heavy ; also regret to say we 
have suffered severely. Duke of Connaught is well, and 
behaved admirably, leading his brigade to the attack. 



ff 



43- 



n n 



-ff 



mi I 



r 



( 402 ) 



Brown brouglit the telegram, and followed me 
to Beatrice's room, where Loulschen was, and I 
showed it to her. I was myself quite upset, and 
embraced her warmly, saying" what joy and pride 
and cause of thankfulness it was to know our 
darling safe, and so much praised ! I feel quite 
beside myself for joy and gratit jde, though grieved 
to think of oar losses, which, however, have not 
proved to be so serious as first reported. We 
were both much overcome. 

We went to luncheon after this, having sent 
many telegrams, and receiving many. At ten 
minutes past three drove with Beatrice and Lady 
Southampton to Ballater. We got out of the 
carriage, and the train arrived almost immediately, 
and Leopold and Helen stepped out ; she was 
dressed in grey with bonnet to match. 

The guard of honour, Seaforth Highlanders 
(Duke of Albany's), out, and many people. Leo- 
pold and Helen got at once into the landau with 
us two, and we drove straight to Balmoral. At 
the bridge Louischen and Horatia* were waiting 
in a carriage, and followed us. Beyond the bridge, 
and when we had just passed under the arch, 
* The Hon. Horatia Stopford. 



a 



f& 



-ff 



■i i;, i pi HB »- i«<igii wi n«iii ii )i f . I . - 



a 



-ff 







Cfr 



( 403 ) 

the carriage stopped, and Dr. Profeit said a few 
words of welcome, for which Leopold thanked. 
Here everybody was assembled— all our gende- 
men and ladies, and those from Birklmll and the 
Mains, and all the tenants from the three estates, 
all our servants, etc. 

The pipes preceded, playing the "Highland 
Laddie," Brown and all our other kilted men 
walking alongside, and before and behind the 
carriage everybody else close following—and a 
goodly number they were. We got out at the 
door, and went just beyond the arch, all our 
people standing in a line headed by our High- 
landers. A table with whisky and glasses was 
placed up against the house, next to which stood 
all the ladies and gentlemen. Dr. Profeit gave 
Leopold's and Helen's healths, and after these 
had been drunk, Brown stepped forward and 
said, nearly as follows : " Ladies and gendemen, 
let us join in a good Highland cheer for the Duke 
and Duchess of Albany ; may they live long and 
die happy ! " which pleased every one, and there 
were hearty cheers. 

Then I asked Leopold to propose " The Vic- 
torious Army in Egyptr with darling Arthur's 



■a 



Hit 




V I *ltj 




a 



t& 



( 404 ) 

health, which was heartily responded to, and 
poor Louischen was quite upset. After this Dr. 
Profeit proposed '* The Duchess of Connaught," 
and at Brown's suggestion he also proposed " The 
little Princess." The sweet little one had wit- 
nessed the procession in Chapman's (her nurse's) 
arms with her other attendants, and was only a 
liitle way off when her health was drunk. 

This over, we went in and had tea upstairs in 
my room — Louischen, Beatrice, and I. Louischen 
had received a very long and most interesting 
letter from Arthur about that dreadful march 
on the 25th (dated 26th, but finished later). 
A telegram from Sir Garnet Wolseley to Mr. 
Childers, with fuller accounts, arrived. The 
loss, thank God ! is not so heavy as we feared 
at first. A bonfire was to be lit by my desire 
on the top of Craig Gowa7i at nine, just where 
there had been one in 1856 after the fall of 
Sevastopol, when dearest Albert went up to it 
at night with Bertie and Affie. That was on 
September 10, very nearly the same time twenty- 
six years ago ! 

Went to Louischen, who read me portions of 
Arthur's long letter. The description of his and 



w 



c& 



-a 



( 405 ) 

the officers' siifrcrings and privations, as well as 
those of the poor men, made me miserable. 

Only ourselves to dinner; and at nine Beatrice. 
Loiiischen, Lady Southampton, and the gentle- 
men, and many of our people, walked up (with the 
pipes playing) to the top of Craig Goivan~x2it\\^x: 
venturesome in the dark ; and we three (Leopold, 
Helen, and I) went up to Beatrice's room, and 
from there we saw the bonfire lit and blazing, and 
could distinguish figures, and hear the cheering 
and pipes. They were soon back, and I went 
and sat with Beatrice, Louischen, and Lady 
Southampton, who were having a little supper 
In Louischen's room. 

Endless telegrams i What a day of gratitude 
and joy, but mingled with sorrow and anxiety for 
the many mourners and the wounded and dying ! 



& 



^■ 



-ff 




IMll 



i'l 



1-1 



4¥ 



c& 



( 406 ), 



Conclusion. 



A few words I must add in conclusion to this 
volume. 

The faithful attendant who is so often men- 
tioned throughout these Leaves, is no longer 
with her whom he served so truly, devotedly, 
untiringly. 

In the fulness of health and strength he was 
snatched awav from his career of usefulness, after 
an illness of only three days, on the 27th of March 
of this year, respected and beloved by all who 
recognised his rare worth and kindness of heart, 
and truly regretted by all who knew him. 

His loss to me (ill and helpless as I was at the 
time from an accident) is irreparable, for he de- 
servedly possessed my entire confidence ; and to 
say that he is daily, nay, hourly, missed by me, 



eg-. 



■a 



w 



a- 



"~8] 



( 407 ) 

whose lifelong gratitude he won by his constant 
care, attention, and devotion, is but a feeble ex- 
pression of the truth. 

A truer, nobler, trustier heart. 
More loyal, and more loving, never beat 
Within a human breast. 

Balmoral : S\n<emhcr 1883. 



IB-- 



-ff